8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

I've used Cometic gasket on alot of my dirt bikes and other motorcycle's and I've never had an issue with them. A friend of mine with an identical setup as mine is at 900rwhp. With more dyno and tune time, he will be well with in reach of the 1000+ hp goal he is after.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

Nice, that's the first feedback I've heard of that gasket on a 2JZ. I will probably end up using the same gasket if I ever feel I need that extra width over stock GE.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would figure the single layer would have less places to blow out from, but there could be more to the whole multi layer thing in terms of warping etc..

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I can't yet speak from experience but for what it's worth I was about to go with a Cometic head gasket (a very thick 2.0mm or 2.4mm) myself before my swap changed to using a GTE block. Squish would have been barely acceptable at best in that application but I never heard bad things about the actual *quality* of Cometic's product. I understand their head gaskets to be good from what I have read.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

This is what had been told to me :

An MLS gasket when torqued properly essentially becomes like one . In a very thin gasket , there is very little material that separates the cylinders. It is basically that ring of fire that separate one from the other. When you have a lot of pressure and heat within the cylinders especially in high applications , you want more material to separate the cylinders from each other otherwise you can easily blow the material and create a bridge between two cylinders . That is the very reason that in engines which have one layer gaskets , they put o-rings on the head or block made of copper for boosted applications..

I know at least 4 people using a built GE block with a built NA head but they are using GTE . Two are making over 900rwhp and two over 1000rwhp. Their squish isn't optimal and are doing good . Three have been abusing their cars on the drag strips. So does that mean 0.085" squish doesn't sound so bad as long as you got a good ECU and tuner to take care of timing properly ?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I guess that makes sense with the multiple layers handling the heat better, It would be safer to go with the proven thicker one unless someone is willing to be the guinea pig (probably not likely).

Most na-t are running a "sub optimal" squish without much issue, so I think it is still more than reasonable of a squish to get the job done.

wiki definition:
So really you are still squishing it and mixing up the air/fuel but just not as well as if it was squished a little more (how much well better or worse is really the question here)... with the good flow/design of the JZ cylinder heads I can see how people get away without the "optimal" squish. Also factor in most people in that power range are using better EV14 fuel injectors with better fuel atomization which probably helps even further.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

I'm nowhere near what anyone here would consider high-hp, but I've been running a GE gasket since the get go, all last year was at 561hp @ 20psi. Not high-hp, but not nothing either.

My new motor I'm building, I will also be running the GE gasket. My HP goals with that motor will still be sub 1000, so nobody will pay much attention to anything I'm doing, which is fine because I'm going for a fun drivable and enjoyable street car rather than chasing numbers. Unless when I get my motor built, they end up having to take off enough material from the head or block that the GE gasket becomes too thin, then in that case I will probably go with that Cometic.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I will have to decide whether I will be content with the 0.085" squish (more likely will be on this option to avoid more work for now since this is proven) or mill 0.025" from the GE head recess to get a 0.060" squish. But definitely staying with the GTE head gasket and 10:1 CP Pistons.

Let me qualify this for the many who read my thread before they get the concept of : HIGH HP CARS are not fun driveable and enjoyable street car .

It used to be (8 years or more ago) that when you are making a lot of power like 800rwhp and above or even 1000rwhp you had to use a huge turbo with a big compressor , big turbine wheel and housing. The bigger the turbo the laggier it is so consequently it is not a fun driveable and enjoyable street car . But we have come a long way with turbo technologies.

THIS IS NOT TRUE ANYMORE . IT IS ALL ABOUT HOW YOU BUILD YOUR CAR .WHAT PARTS YOU PUT TOGETHER ! The technology of turbos in the past 8 years have come a long way. You can have a 68mm turbo making +1000rwhp that spools like a 65mm that barely makes 700rwhp . And when you add other stuff like a QSV or nitrous, then there is no such thing as a laggy turbo anymore , lmaol. You have to choose the right turbo. Get the smallest turbo with the smallest turbine housing that will support your power goal so lag won't be a problem.

I have two MKIV over 1200rwhp and two MKIV with over 1000rwhp and they are all FUN DRIVEABLE and ENJOYABLE STREET CAR. Like one has 1025rwhp with a built engine and PT-6870 with a quick spool valve. It spools better than a 67mm turbo like a BW S366 or PT-6765. My Old Man Tan SC has a 72mm turbo that can support +1100rwhp but making 900rwhp now since I hate to damage the ATF transmission. It is a fun car to drive with the QSV and nitrous and yet it has a 72mm turbo that is +1100rwhp capable.

So it is all about a combination of the right parts. If you check Jared Holt's MKIV built by Real Street Performance on SF, he just particpated on a cross states drag strip competition. They go into a drag strip compete , tow a closed trailer behind them into another drag strip hundreds of miles away and then compete and so. It was on the 7s in the quartermile. Definitely huge power , surely above 1250rwhp and still a street car . That was the purpose when the car was built... a high hp and still fun street car !

I hope no one get the wrong impression that a high hp car is not a fun driveable or enjoyable street car. It is a matter of having the right setup !

Halon

iTrader: (6)

It's a matter of building the setup that is right for you. Streetable, enjoyable, drivable, responsive, that's all relative. I actually think quite similar to what you stated, however just scaled back a bit. You are mentioned making 1xxxHP with as small and responsive of components as possible. I share that general perspective 100%, just scaled back a bit.

I respect your perspective, I'm just a bit different in that I want the exact same thing you mention, however I've come to find I really enjoy the 600-800hp range on a street car. That's why I've chosen the parts I have (61mm, small divided housing, T4 TS, 'mild' cams, high-comp, adding VVTi, etc). Me personally, I don't enjoy a 66-70mm turbo on the street as much as I enjoy a 61-64mm turbo on the street. To each their own.

That perspective is why all too often I shake my head when folks looking for some advice on selecting a turbo setup with a goal of making say 500-600hp on e85, and the replies roll in telling them to run an S366 or a 6766. They could run an S360, PTE 6262/66, or hell even a 5862/66 and reach your desired goal with way better response.

I think we think very much alike on that generally, but we just have a different perspective of what we enjoy.

All I was trying to do was respond to some of your requests for real world 'high-hp' applications that have used 'x' and 'y' parts. And simply saying that I will likely never be able to provide you with feedback you desire simply because I'm building my car how I enjoy it, and that will not be 'high-hp' to folks like you.

I am going to respectfully exit this conversation at this point. I was trying to actually be helpful, but yet again I find that I only manage to create some sort of bitterness. Best of luck on the NA-T build, I'm sure it'll be a great build.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I don't get that sense at all that you are creating a sort of bitterness. As I have said before to you and as many who knows me , I will always speak my mind especially if it will help others. It might contradict somebody but that doesn't mean I have bitter feelings. This is a free world and we are all free to speak our mind and engage in a great and fruitful conversation. It doesn't necessarily mean there is bitterness when one contradicts the other in opinion.

Looks to me you took my last post personally. I said what I felt is true as of this day ... "it is all about the setup and high hp cars doesn't necessarily mean are not fun on the streets" . That was exactly my first sentence on my last post. I was trying to debunk the opposite for which is what I got from your sentence that I enboldened. It wasn't meant to demean you, your thoughts nor beliefs. I expressed my belief and have seen in many cars. I said it because I wanted to help people understand that fact. The latter may have been true before but not anymore now. Not because people do not agree on somebody's post means they are bitter. I can't do anything if someone's commenting on your posts make you conclude that you create bitterness. Basically same thing when you thought I was mad when I was expressing my views about the CD009 on Ali's thread as you have expressed on your PM to me and I said not at all. There would always be disagreements in opinions. We all do not have to agree . I don't see any problem with it. And for which in my opinion you should also consider that healthy discussions or even contradictions help a lot of people learn a thing or two.

Again I repeat ...contradicting someone's opinion doesn't mean I am bitter about someone when they express their view. Anyone should feel free to speak up even if it will contradict somebody especially if it will contribute to a discussion that will help others.

APTech

iTrader: (1)

One cannot forget there's more to "streetability" than lag. It really comes down to what the person driving the car is comfortable with.

In my last DSM i was barely into the 550+AWHP mark and the car TO ME was un-streetable. Twin disk clutches and light aluminum flywheels= harsher bumper to bumper driving. 1650cc injectors make for rough idle and cold starts, stiff suspension setting made me fear for my life at any dips in the road, etc. etc.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

You have given a perfect example of what I said 3 posts above : IT IS ALL ABOUT HOW YOU BUILD YOUR CAR and WHAT PARTS YOU PUT TOGETHER ,other wise your car will be a sh?tty driving car. Even a 200rwhp car that was put together with crappy parts and built by someone who do not know what he is doing would be un-streetable. If a person working on your car knows what he is doing , he should tell you what the right parts are after you have told him what the purpose of the car is.

To use 1650cc injectors and being in the vicinity of 550rwhp is a bad decision. First depending on when it was you built your car which I assume many months ago, the 1500-1700cc injectors were pieces of sh?t. Even the best tuners cannot get them to idle . That is exactly the reason why people started using the +2000cc injectors because they performed and idled better than those pieces of sh?t . It was only in the past few months that a couple of manufacturers making these 1500-1700cc injectors are coming out with better or reliable injectors. But the manufacturers would have not said that cause they have to sell their products and wanted to make money and the end users paid the price with a bad experience.

The bigger the injectors , the sh?tty can be your idle because of the limited amount of control one has on the amount of fuel being injected coupled by bad design as manifested by the early 1500-1700cc injectors. Don't get me wrong when I say that and let me qualify that because not all injectors are that way. Many people , that includes me, are using +2000cc injectors that idles perfectly fine provided you have a good tuner and ecu. Always use the right size of injectors for your power goal with some wiggle room or let's say being in the 80-90% duty cyle . For a 550ish power , even 1000cc injectors with E85 are the most one should use. For pump 93 it will be 600-700cc injectors. For those making power well above 1000rwhp , one option we use is having a dual injector setup , one for the lower range power so idle is good and one for the full tilt mode. So there are options just to get things right . It all boils down to the right setup again.

Aluminum flywheels are light , therefore allows faster revolutions. But you take away the dampening capabilities that is why they cause a lot of rattling inside your transmission. So if your twin disk clutch has aluminum flywheel like many has the button aluminum flywheels then you got it right.... some can really be sh?tty. But Not all Twin Disks clutches are same , therefore not all are bad to drive. If you get the right twin disks FOR THE RIGHT CAR , then you will have a better experience. Many times , people try to make a particular clutch setup work on a car that wasn't meant for . I won't even go in detail on this cause I can name many who have a twin , triple or quad clutches and are not bad to drive in a California bumper to bumper traffic. I will give you one though, google Ken Henderson's name who has +1000rwhp Supra MKIVs with triple, quad clutches in a daily California traffic drives. Most if not all of his cars are street cars . I doubt he even use them on the drag strips. And that guy is very meticulous on his cars. He won't settle for less even for the slightest imperfection. He wants his cars to be perfect on the streets and yet are +1000rwhp monsters. The main problem I see on the trans / clutch setup problems for performance cars are people experimenting or put together parts and see if it works then the end users suffer the consequences.That is why always plan ahead before building a performance car ... check availability of the right and tested parts so you don't become one of the guinea pigs.

For suspension setup ,again one has to put the right suspension based on the purpose of the car because not all suspensions or coil overs are same. A drag car has a totally different suspension setup from a full street car where you want to enjoy a leisurely drive. A drag suspension is meant to allow you to get out of the hole quick but can be sh?tty on the streets. Many want the low profile look for their cars so they get coil-overs that lower the car or without the right spring rates then complain about the bumps and holes on the road. The less spring play or if spring rates are stiffer then every damn bump or hole or imperfection on the streets will make you suffer.

Another good example is, using the right kind and size of tires. Many like a low profile look cause it lowers the car then complain about bumps, holes or sh?tty driving experience on the streets. Low profiles tires do not have the meat or tire bounce needed to absorb the weight of the car when it goes through sh?tty roads so the passenger feels every bit of that bump.

I can go on and on but these simply reinforce what I previously mentioned : IT IS ALL ABOUT THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS YOU PUT TOGETHER , while building your car. One has to first determine what the car is for , then collect the parts meant for that purpose, then get someone who knows what they are doing to put it together if you cannot do it right yourself otherwise you will find your self saying that your car is sh?tty or un-streetable.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

There were some writes up I came across in the past that the SC300 2JZGE (vvti included) all have the stronger 2JZGTE / non VVTi 2JZGE rods and even some of the first IS300 VVTi 2JZGE have the 2JZGTE / non VVTI 2JZGE rods. In fact I saw a thread with pictures.

I just want to confirm after taking out the upper / lower oil pans on my 109k miles 2000 SC300 VVTi 2jzge engine , it has the weaker VVTi rods . So , at least in my case with my 2000 SC300 , the statement about all SC300 having the stronger rods is false.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I couldn't let this 1 of 120 1997 SC300 5 speed go to the scrap yard and be recycled for scrap metal . I am sure some of you have seen this. So after a lot of talk with the owner and having sent me a lot of external and interior pictures from all angles to evaluate it's real condition , I have decided to take it from him knowing this will be an easy job for me since I have everything I need to get this 1 of 120 where it should be .





When I was parting out one of the SC300 for parts I had , I had the car above in mind that is why before I asked a guy to pick up one of the shells I did cut the front face .... took out the hood, the bumper , the fenders and front lights cross member . The car above has no frame damage. If you check out the pictures , the damage is above the bumper cross bar. I have a 38k miles and 108k miles 2jzge and all the body wirings from a 1997 so replacing what is damaged on the car above wouldn't be a problem.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

The '97 5-speed had some kind of wreck! It looks like the hood became scrunched underneath a semi trailer or something with a high bumper. I love it that you've decided to restore it, Gerry! It's amazing that it has no frame damage despite how it looks in the pictures. So this one would be just a straight restoration and not an upgrade?