KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^^ It's the truth about VVT-i GTE engines. If I did not have the location-centric constraints for my swap I would have easily gone with a 2JZGTE VVT-i or 1JZ-GTE VVT-i donor engine. There is more torque available sooner in each engine's RPM range, slightly better fuel economy and I also don't know of any tuning barriers that still exist for any of the GTE VVT-i engines.

Non-VVTi GTE's aren't bad by any means but the newer ones are improved in very positive ways.

It's very cool to learn that the 1998-2000 SC300 USDM harnesses are so very similar to the 2JZGTE VVT-i engine harnesses!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Indeed it makes it easier for those with the 1998-2000 SC300.

But you know what ? I believe the 1998 - 2001 GS300 have the easiest job on their harness if they do an Aristo VVTi 2JZGTE swap. Even their auto transmission wiring has the same pin configurations. We have to remember that the Aristo in those years is basically our GS300 .




I think I would need to unretire myself and apply for something that will keep me busy the whole day like maybe flipping burgers at McDo or Burger King...lmaol. I am done with the 2jzgte swap on my APTech Wide Body Project car. Just need to wait for Irving to deliver his wide body kit. ATTN IRVING of APTech .. are the rear and front fenders done yet ?

If I don't look for something else to keep me busy, every time I have extra money , I end up assembling a 2jzGTE car . Now I have 3 VVTi 2jzGTE SCs and two of those have V160 / 6 speed , 3 Non VVTi 2jzGTE SCs all with ATF Built Transmissions and 4 Supra MKIVs with 2jzGTEs / V160 6 speed . This is the worst I have been since the time I had every damn model of BMWs from the BMW 2002, 3 to the 8 series on my drive way 15 years ago when I was crazy about BMWs. But that time , I never tinkered with cars . All I did was drive.

Though I still need to work on the cat-back exhaust and get ATF fluid for the power steering , just fired it up to see if my wiring and everything else is in good shape and looks like I can take it for a test drive this weekend.








Let me tell you guys a little secret about the 2jzGTE VVTi stock engine . If you are still on MAF , you make sure the pipe in which that MAF is installed is 3" in diameter. It is very sensitive to the amount of air it is metering . Any air it is not able to meter gives you a sh?tty idle and would hardly keep it running . That MAF was calibrated on a 3" pipe I guess to measure exactly how much air is coming in so you need to keep it on a 3" pipe.

Here I reused the old MAF holder and just installed an aftermarket air filter .




Let me repeat what I wrote a few pages back on how to get around 400rwhp / 400ft.lbs of torque (more or less) on a HEALTHY stock JDM 2jzGTE vvti or non vvti engine :

You can only safely boost those ceramic turbos to around 17psi or they will be on borrowed times but that will be plentiful to get you to around the above stated power. And that power is quite a good one to play around learning how to drive a car with added power. How many damn cars on the streets have that power or more after all ? Not much even with the many newer cars not unless they are the newer muscle cars .

* Let the engine breath ... both ways .. IN & OUT . This is a key ingredient of making power
a) Remove that restrictive air filter by getting at least a 3" hi flow cone filter
b) Remove the restrictive catalytic converter and get a 3" down pipe / mid pipe (removing cats automatically fails you on emission tests)
c) If your exhaust is restrictive .. get free flowing cat-back exhausts

* Get a manual boost controller . Control that boost or you will start damaging stuff especially if you have stock fuel injectors.

* Get a boost gauge so you know how much boost you are making and also what your engine vacuum is .

* Do the wastegate mod using a spring to hold the wastegate in closed position. These are now old turbos so wastegate springs are weak so installing a spring to hold it shut will help you build boost. Got this from Advance Autoparts ...a Dorman / Help Spring Part Number 59003 . One end is hooked to the actuator arm of the wastegate and one end is hooked to the water pump.

* Get a boost cut controlller like a Greddy BCC or HKS FCD to be able to run more than 14.7 of boost. The stock ECU will cut fuel if you don't.

* Get a good sized inter-cooler to cool that charged air . Cooler air that goes into the engine is better. But get the appropriate size for your power goals otherwise you will just be introducing some lag. It will take time for those turbo to fill up a damn big inter-cooler with air and then push it towards the engine.

* Make sure you have a good fuel system (filter / pump / line) that will support the power and better spark plugs with a gap whose spark won't be blown out in higher rpms. Upgrade the stock fuel pump. On this car I dropped in a Bosc 044 ... intank since they are able to support more than the TT Denso Supra pump.

* Get the NGK 4644 (BKR7IEX) spark plugs and gap them between to around 30-32 . Gap spark plug to a point in which you don't get ignition miss while boosting. Right now they are on .030.

* With JDM twins , do not boost above 17psi .. the turbo wheels are ceramic (though some of us have seen steel bladed turbos from jdm 2jzGTEs) so you will be on borrowed times. 15 to 17 psi is where I play with them. For USDM twins 18 to at most 20psi . Since you can push the USDM twins to 18-20psi , consequently you will be able to make more power with them. You need to take note though that as you make more power , make sure the size of your injectors can handle the power . I would usually prefer to have injectors that are within the 80-90% duty cycle of my power goal so I have room . You don't ever want to get lean .

So with a stock 2JZGTE , it is not really hard having a 400rwhp / 400ft.lbs daily driver. You should hit those numbers or even more . Every setup is different so numbers will vary depending on how healthy your engine is, its peripherals are and the stuff you install,. It will be a fun and very responsive car to play with .

.

mteele

iTrader: (5)

gerrb,

How many of your imported VVTI motors have you bothered with cracking the longblock open and checking things out? I bought mine off of eBay and it had a good compression check video with it and the seller seemed to be reputable with good feedback. I just cant make my mind up if its worth it to spend another $2k on machine shop services taking the shortblock apart. My goal for the car is a reliable 700hp. I figure I should at a minimum take the head off, get a valve job done, cleaning, decked, etc. and then install it back with ARP headstuds & OEM headgasket. Would love to get your advice on what you would do. As cheap as it is to buy another longblock I dont know that it makes sense to invest more money into what I have given my power goals.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

At this point all my VVTi 2jzGTE engines are all stock. As soon as I am able to acquire the aftermarket pistons / rods / billet mains / ferrea valve train and stroker crank , then I will open the two VVTi engines with the 6speeds for building since I am aiming for 1250rwhp and 1500rwhp on those 2 1997 SC300 2 of 120. For the APTech Wide Body project, I doubt I will ever open that since I don't think I will ever go over 700rwhp on that car being a go around / look good car. It has a good compression and leakdown numbers so it is good to go for that power level. I actually haven't done anything on that engine except inspect , clean and do the tests.

Tearing apart an engine for your swap depends on a lot of factors . What will be the purpose of the car ? How much will the car be actually used for that purpose ? What power goal are you aiming for ? Like if you are building a car for big time drag racing , you definitely want to have a very reliable engine . Now let's say that you just want a daily driver and a weekend warrior at around 700rwhp as you stated , this is what I will do :

Assuming they gave you an engine with really good compression numbers . That is definitely a good start. Once you get it to your place , if they haven't done it for you .. do a leakdown test on the engine. That will give you a better idea of how healthy the engine is like ..how much leakage is passing through the intake and exhaust valves or piston rings ? If the leakdown numbers are good , I personally wouldn't even touch it for a 700rwhp daily driver / weekend warrior. I have seen a lot of stock long blocks making 700-900rwhp even occasionally used at the drag strip. A healthy stock 2jzgte long block either vvti or non vvti will be good for 700rwhp all day. That will save you tons of money. Now of course for those who want to be sure , they will open it up , clean it up and do what is necessary... replace the head gasket and put in ARP head studs. It really depends on how healthy that stock long block is in my opinion and how much it will be eventually be used rather be abused . If you see some leaks on some seals , then while the engine is out , replace those seals like rear main , front main , camshaft seals , valve seals , etc. . These are easy and cheap to do.

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Thanksnfor the advice....I think I am just going to pull the complete head and bring it to the machine shop for cleaning, resurfacing, rebuilding with the new components, and check clearances. Valve job only if needed. I have already bought a complete VVTI engine rebuild kit and the ARP head studs so doing just that should run $6-700 more with minimal time.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have read it many times , "it is hard to get a good shell to start with for a 2jzGTE swap " , but as I keep on saying you guys are not looking at the right place. This one is another classic example... a clean , with minor dent on the driver side fender , rust free with clean title 1999 SC400 for which one of our forum member here wanted $2500. It is a good running car that I won't hesitate to drive to the west coast right now. A clean shell is the last thing I need right now since I still have two shells in the back yard and one being my 3rd 1997 SC300 5 speed but who would refuse a deal like this ? This car has a black interior which I have started moving to one of my cars , Stance Coil-overs and Supra MKIV TT front and rear calipers and good set of wheels with new tires . What the hell one still wants for that price ? So I beg to dis-agree to those who say that it is hard to get a good clean ,cheap SC for a project ... guys .. you are not looking at the right place is all what I can say . I don't even know if I want to tear apart or part out locally this car which is in really great running condition. Maybe just get what I want from it and sell it locally as a running car.

mteele

iTrader: (5)

The black interior and TT wheels alone were worth spending $2500

APTech

iTrader: (1)

You have a VERY patient wife lol

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

That car would be 4 to 6k here in socal. If I could find a $2,500 SC over here with a black interior that clean, then it would be sold the same day.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah these deals don't seem to come up in my area very often, nice find!

187

Yeah I don't think I could find a 92 with no motor and trans with a salvage title and rust around me without someone wanting 3K+

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

You are welcome !

Well been busy today , tearing it apart, started moving things I would keep then try to get back my money , haha. The black interior and TT wheels are a no brainer . Though I won't need all the black interior. I am just completing the missing black parts of my APT Tech Wide Body Project . The Stance coilovers and Supra MKIV Front and Rear Calipers are worth I believe at least $1600. Those I won't need so they have to go . I believe I will return it to all stock since I have the stock parts with tan interior and sell it for the price I paid for it . . Actually parting this out locally will get me more than $2500 for all the stock parts . Just the body kit with the lights that is at least $1250.

TT wheels back on a MKIV . Will actually sell this MKIV .... eyeing another high hp 6 speed MKIV if the price I wanted to pay will be accepted !


You remember the saying .. "Happy Wife Happy Life ? " . Let her have what she wants ..and you will have what you want . When she saw the car all she said was , "you have 9 SC in this place aside from all your other vehicles that are here, are you serious ? " . So I said ,I will move 3 of the SCs this year to the south once painted ....there , with a 20 acre place , nobody will see or mind what I have inside my perimeter fence .

I always see them here in GA and FL . Hahaha.. when you are retired , I guess you have more time to search diligently every day .

South East I guess is the best place to find them .

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Did you tune you own AEM Infinity in the Supra?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

No sir . What I do with MKIVs is sell my least capable MKIV and grab a better one always . Like I am selling the 5th I have right now I just posted above . So they come fully built . All I do is mess around a bit at times with the tune / map if I end up changing a component and need to modify the tune.

I only tune my SCs since I built all of them from scratch .

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Gerry, that VVT-i SC400 is beautiful! That's definitely a good car as-is. I read what you said about knowing where to look but it's still a lucky find for the price!

And possibly a new MKIV on the way! Things are definitely getting interesting in your 2017 stable