2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
#707
So if I understand the pic correct the 2 90 degree fittings are for the return lines as for the 3 straight fittings in the fuel sender hat is got to be feeding all the way to the rail?
So are you planing on using a 3-1 converter for a single big feed line or are you planning on tripple feeding the rail?
So are you planing on using a 3-1 converter for a single big feed line or are you planning on tripple feeding the rail?
I know this will be a crazy setup and am open to all comments. I thought my weldon setup on my two supras are ridiculuous...lol.. this one is... Let the discussion begin.... lol
This is the plan ...
The -8an teflon line on the top hat is the return line for the whole fuel system. That means it will come from the regulator and goes straight to the 90 degree fitting /bulkhead on the top hat.
The 3 x -6an teflon line coming from the fuel sender hat will feed my fuel log,assuming I use 3 internal pumps. If I only use 2 then those two will still feed the fuel log and will just cap 1. And if I use only one then it will still go to the fuel log and cap the 2 . Am trying to make the setup flexible depending on the number of internal pumps I have.
The -10an teflon on the top hat will feed a prepump filter then the 1500rwhp pump then into the fuel log.
Then the output of the fuel log will go into a fuel filter which has an output of -10an which is the main feed line into the rail (splits on both end of rail)
Thus only 1x10an main feed line and 1x8an return line
Just to have a better understanding , I temporarily put together the components so to have a better visual. Though I will replace those 3 barb fittings with -6an to match those on the fuel sender hat and trunk layout will depend on space. Let's say I will use three internal pumps , then the three fuel log inputs will be used.
Let's say I use two internal pumps, then only two fuel log inputs will be used and will cap one.
* I want to do the fuel system once with the objective of being able to support at least 1000RWHP. and it is E85 compatible.
* Big pump will be used only as failsafe (failover) pump, meaning it turns on if one of the denso pumps fail especially in high boost. That means I will have a fuel pressure sensor on those 3 lines just before the fuel log. Having the pressure sensors in the trunk rather than in the engine bay will be an advantage hopefully. Once a denso fail, there maybe a split second delay before the big pump comes online. But having a big long line of -10an full of fuel, hopefully you have enough to feed the injectors while the big pump goes online thus avoiding any lean situation. It's all good in theory , lol , in reality ... who knows. It remains to be seen.
* The big brand new pump had been sitting in my garage for the past 4 years.. so I decided to make it useful...I hate to let it sit another 4 years for nothing in the garage ..
* So why don't I just use the big pump then ? It is because the densos are more reliable and more quiet .. 70% of my driving I will probably use only one pump so I will cruise with one pump and let the rest turn on depending on the boost level or as the need arises.
* With this plumbing setup , I have the option of using either the densos OR the big pump OR both at the same time. They both feed the fuel log after all. It just all depends now on how they are wired. All those pumps have a check valve thus fuel should not flow back into the tank through them.
Feel free to give your comments and let's discuss . This is how we all learn ... sharing ideas.
Last edited by gerrb; 05-30-12 at 07:57 AM.
#709
Driver School Candidate
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I'll be keeping an aye out on this build excited to see it done...
#711
Great ! That is the very reason for this whole thread ... encourage people to work on their cars even if that is not what we do for a living. There is a great sense of accomplishment after. You save lots of money and no one will care better about what you want on your car than yourself.
Last edited by gerrb; 05-30-12 at 11:11 AM.
#713
Taking the advice of Omar , decided to check clearances inside the trunk. It is indeed a very tight fit in there if you use -10an straight bulkhead with a 90 degree end hose. You can connect the 90 degree end hose but need to wiggle that tank around which you don't want to do everytime you connect/disconnect it . So the best will be to use a -10 an 90 degree bulkhead so you can just use an ordinary -10an end hose to connect the line to the bulkhead.
Very tight fit / little space ... as seen in the pictures
Very tight fit / little space ... as seen in the pictures
#714
I believe there are more benefits in keeping the charcoal canister than having a cleaner engine bay look. It at least absorb fuel vapors. My wife and family visitors at times complain of fuel smell inside the house which is emanating from the garage I believe whenever I have my two supras inside the garage.
So , I decided to be consistent with the flat black look I want on the engine bay, decided to paint the canister and its holder
So , I decided to be consistent with the flat black look I want on the engine bay, decided to paint the canister and its holder
Last edited by gerrb; 05-31-12 at 08:08 AM.
#716
Anybody here have used teflon wires gauge 10 for the internal fuel pumps ? Were can you get them by the foot at a good price ? Like I need 5 feet of black and 5 feet of red. Freaking local auto supplies don't have them. I need to wire my 3 x TT Denso pumps and need teflon wires gauge 10 so they are alcohol friendly. The cheapest I saw online is 25 feet for $92 for one color and I don't need all that . Spending $184 is just too much.