KingPhilipII's Blue Flame
05-08-12, 05:23 PM
#77
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Hey thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
As people may have noticed, I've started addressing my gas mileage problems, after a year of slowly restoring my SC to drivable shape.. I've changed my fuel filter last week or so, and still no luck.. I found this thread a long time ago but never really tried it out, and today I've gotten some things in spec, and some things that I'm not sure of;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
I've checked my MAF, ISCV and TPS and changed the coolant temperature sensor just now. Tomorrow I'll clean the idle control valve and check the fuel pump ECU. I'm having a hard time with my MAF though, for some reason when I check the resistance of THA - E2 I get some out of this world reading.. Not really sure what it means, as it doesn't say in the DIY what to do if I get super high readings like 176,xxx kΩ. Although everything else checks out on point. I finally got the TPS on spec after months and months of delaying.
And, even if the coolant temperature sensor wasn't faulty it was really due to be changed, although I felt a significant change in acceleration and pull from the engine on my initial test drive. I'm really hoping this would solve my MPG problems. I'm not expecting to have like a Hybrid MPG but just to be on spec. It's an old car, and I don't expect everything to work and function perfectly so I guess, "the saga continues"....
Old coolant temperature sensor with a crack between the copper and the plug;
Brand new Duralast with limited lifetime warranty for $23, lol;
Aaaand side by side comparison of both;
EDIT: Some people are also saying that the gas cap can cause loss of MPG, can someone clarify and explain how's that? My gas cap feels loose when the weather is hot, and very tight and pressurized when the weather is cool...
As people may have noticed, I've started addressing my gas mileage problems, after a year of slowly restoring my SC to drivable shape.. I've changed my fuel filter last week or so, and still no luck.. I found this thread a long time ago but never really tried it out, and today I've gotten some things in spec, and some things that I'm not sure of;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...on-issues.html
I've checked my MAF, ISCV and TPS and changed the coolant temperature sensor just now. Tomorrow I'll clean the idle control valve and check the fuel pump ECU. I'm having a hard time with my MAF though, for some reason when I check the resistance of THA - E2 I get some out of this world reading.. Not really sure what it means, as it doesn't say in the DIY what to do if I get super high readings like 176,xxx kΩ. Although everything else checks out on point. I finally got the TPS on spec after months and months of delaying.
And, even if the coolant temperature sensor wasn't faulty it was really due to be changed, although I felt a significant change in acceleration and pull from the engine on my initial test drive. I'm really hoping this would solve my MPG problems. I'm not expecting to have like a Hybrid MPG but just to be on spec. It's an old car, and I don't expect everything to work and function perfectly so I guess, "the saga continues"....
Old coolant temperature sensor with a crack between the copper and the plug;
Brand new Duralast with limited lifetime warranty for $23, lol;
Aaaand side by side comparison of both;
EDIT: Some people are also saying that the gas cap can cause loss of MPG, can someone clarify and explain how's that? My gas cap feels loose when the weather is hot, and very tight and pressurized when the weather is cool...
Last edited by OG Dada; 05-10-12 at 06:30 PM.
05-10-12, 09:52 AM
#79
Anyways, back to my quest for getting some gas mileage back. It is considerably effective what I've done so far, but still not in spec... So I ordered the gas cap gasket from a local Toyota stealership here in San Diego, and guess what? They told me its on back order until the 14th of this month!
What a joke these dealerships are... But I can order the entire gas cap(gasket included) and it'll be here by tomorrow! So my expense of $2.xx became $21.xx. My question to you guys is; is it worth it to change the entire gas cap or just wait for the gasket itself until the 14th? I mean, do I need to change the entire thing for real? I don't see anything wrong with the cap, but the gasket is a bit dried out IMO.
05-10-12, 06:29 PM
#80
Drift Motion stainless steel braided power steering high pressure line.
As a new wave of SC owners are pouring in lately, I noticed an increase in people PMing me about the Drift Motion stainless steel braided power steering high pressure line(so there won't be any confusion about it) in the last few weeks. I don't really mind it, but it'd be great if I added this to my thread as well.
Installation is simple, remove the old one, and in with the Drift Motion(okay, I'm not gonna type the whole thing again) you get the point. Then plug you some vacuum lines. This wouldn't trigger any CEL, as the PS pump isn't part of the engine. The vacuum lines are meant to maintain your idle while turning the wheels at full stop or low speed. I would say that this is a great alternative as to buying the OEM $6xx one, or DIYing it if you're not really up for that challenge, or buying something from Autozone(not that there's anything bad about it). It looks pretty cool and clean if you ask my opinion compared to the black rubber high pressure lines that become grimy and dirty in time. Although, I must warn you if you do this, your PS pump whines a little if not noticeable while turning your wheels at low speed or full stop. I've never had problems with it or my power steering system ever since I installed it June of last year. And this is obviously based on my experience not that hear-say BS. Anyways, here are the pics, I know this is what people want...
This is what you won't be needing that's causing your system leaks or whatever...
The 2 ventilation hoses go with it, the sensor, banjo bolts(not pictured) and of course, the OEM high pressure line.
Line from the power steering pump.
Line to the rack and pinion.
And the vacuum necks that you need to plug circled in red.
Good luck CL.
) in the last few weeks. I don't really mind it, but it'd be great if I added this to my thread as well.Installation is simple, remove the old one, and in with the Drift Motion(okay, I'm not gonna type the whole thing again) you get the point. Then plug you some vacuum lines. This wouldn't trigger any CEL, as the PS pump isn't part of the engine. The vacuum lines are meant to maintain your idle while turning the wheels at full stop or low speed. I would say that this is a great alternative as to buying the OEM $6xx one, or DIYing it if you're not really up for that challenge, or buying something from Autozone(not that there's anything bad about it). It looks pretty cool and clean if you ask my opinion compared to the black rubber high pressure lines that become grimy and dirty in time. Although, I must warn you if you do this, your PS pump whines a little if not noticeable while turning your wheels at low speed or full stop. I've never had problems with it or my power steering system ever since I installed it June of last year. And this is obviously based on my experience not that hear-say BS. Anyways, here are the pics, I know this is what people want...
This is what you won't be needing that's causing your system leaks or whatever...
The 2 ventilation hoses go with it, the sensor, banjo bolts(not pictured) and of course, the OEM high pressure line.
Line from the power steering pump.
Line to the rack and pinion.
And the vacuum necks that you need to plug circled in red.
Good luck CL.
05-12-12, 09:08 AM
#82
As for the price, I don't wanna speak ahead of the guy, so just contact him. All I can say is it's very reasonable.
I guess the money making scheme of the stealership was actually a blessing in disguise. I never really payed attention to my gas cap ever since I got my SC (I mean, who does, really?) It turns out that the previous owner actually swapped the gas cap for a different one, for some reason, I don't know.
Here's my old one.
*Found out that Motorcraft is actually from a Ford.
And here's the brand new OEM Toyota/Lexus.
Last edited by OG Dada; 05-12-12 at 09:39 AM.
05-12-12, 06:09 PM
#83
Bad MAF Sensor
I just did a thorough check of all possible things that can affect my MPG decline. I confirmed that my MAF is already out, unless somebody thinks otherwise. So far, I've changed my fuel filter, coolant temp sensor and gas cap, anything else I need to change? All ignition parts are still in great shape. I just checked, my spark plugs, wires and distributor.
I checked the THA-E2 readings, ambient temp was at 68˚F and resistance should be around 2-3kΩ. As you can see, according to the repair manual, "replace MAF if resistance is not as specified."
This is what I'm getting. And its waaaaaay out there, its ridiculous! 172kΩ
Now, my question is, is this still cleanable? I'm not getting any CEL, so is there a remedy for this besides changing it, or changing it is the best thing to do? Is there anything else I need to be checking that I'm missing or what? Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!
I checked the THA-E2 readings, ambient temp was at 68˚F and resistance should be around 2-3kΩ. As you can see, according to the repair manual, "replace MAF if resistance is not as specified."
This is what I'm getting. And its waaaaaay out there, its ridiculous! 172kΩ
Now, my question is, is this still cleanable? I'm not getting any CEL, so is there a remedy for this besides changing it, or changing it is the best thing to do? Is there anything else I need to be checking that I'm missing or what? Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!
Last edited by OG Dada; 05-17-12 at 09:13 PM.
05-19-12, 09:13 PM
#86
SDCL BBQ Meet & Greet '12
Great turn out today with San Diego CL BBQ Meet & Greet!!! Didn't get to take a lot of pics even though I had my camera with me! RX7Rage and another ISF dude started talking about sneakers and couldn't leave the group! Lol So my apologies for the iPhone pics. Anyways;
The red SC is xxtoobsxx and the MIP is SW2UZ.
I want to say my baby's hanging out with the big boys, but in reality its a 'hippie' grandpa with his buffed up grandkids.
RX7Rage(Blue ISF) and David(not sure of his username, Silver ISF)
Y'all can find the rest of the cars here;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7243494-post144.html
The red SC is xxtoobsxx and the MIP is SW2UZ.
I want to say my baby's hanging out with the big boys, but in reality its a 'hippie' grandpa with his buffed up grandkids.
RX7Rage(Blue ISF) and David(not sure of his username, Silver ISF)
Y'all can find the rest of the cars here;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/7243494-post144.html
Last edited by OG Dada; 06-06-12 at 12:01 AM.
05-30-12, 02:21 AM
#87
Front Polyurethane Upper & Lower Control Arm Bushings
I had chance to work on suspension bushings again. And since I wasn't able to document anything when I did mine, I made sure I'm able to do it this time, just for CL. This is my buddy chargerfan's SC400 - work in progress. I'd say that this is one of the bestest easiest and cheapest investment I've done on my SC by far. The difference is day and night soon as you change the bushings. The 15-20 year old OEM rubber bushings really tend to become sloppy and change the handling of the SC in time. Anyways, I know people want pics, so here it goes...
I strongly suggest anyone who's gonna DIY this at home to invest in a press. We used the 12 ton press from Harbor Freight, and it works perfectly to get the job done. (If you don't want the press, you can return it within 30 days, just clean it up. That's what I did.)
Prothane is readily available for our SC's either directly from their website or their distributors without wait period.
This is everything that comes for the front control arm polyurethane bushings kit. It comes with every single bushing you can find for both upper, lower, left & right control arms.
It also comes with instructions on how and what to do. A lot of people don't read the instructions, or leave it to the "shop" who's gonna do it thinking they're the experts, and end up with a missing metal sleeve and costing them more to buy another control arm since the sleeve is not available in the market.
First thing you do is remove the control arms. Driver side requires you to remove the bolts holding the windshield washer fluid tank so you can slip off the long bolt holding the upper control arm. There is a slight difference in bolt sizes and assembly for the lower control arms through the years. My '95 have a support rod attached to the camber bolt of the lower control arms, and chargerfan's '92 doesn't. And best tool to loosen the ball joint bolts is the big sized pitman arm puller, which you can rent from Autozone for $15(or you can bang it with a huge hammer, the old school way).
Don't forget to mark the camber washers so your alignment wouldn't be so bad and you can still drive your SC to the alignment shop. Orrrrrrr, y'all can hit up chargerfan for alignment!
Once the control arms are off of the car, bring the upper control arms to the press and press out the bushings!
Put grease all over the bushings and sleeves so it wouldn't squeak so much once installed in the car.
Installing the new bushings on isn't so bad. You can use your 2 hands to press them in.
The lower control arms is a different story. You need to torch the rubber bushings out to install the polyurethanes. I find it to be the easiest way to use a long flat head screwdriver to help pry out the metal bushings while the flames is burning the rubber.
The camber side of the arm has 3 sleeves total. You have an outer sleeve which is perfectly pressed in in the "ear", which is also the reason why you have to burn out the rubber bushing, because the poly bushing requires it to be on. There's a middle metal sleeve, that you need to pry out while and when the rubber is already burning to help the flames burn the rubber inside quicker. And the center sleeve which supports the camber bolt when its installed in the car, which is also gonna be reused for the poly's.
Center Sleeve
I strongly suggest anyone who's gonna DIY this at home to invest in a press. We used the 12 ton press from Harbor Freight, and it works perfectly to get the job done. (If you don't want the press, you can return it within 30 days, just clean it up. That's what I did.
)Prothane is readily available for our SC's either directly from their website or their distributors without wait period.
This is everything that comes for the front control arm polyurethane bushings kit. It comes with every single bushing you can find for both upper, lower, left & right control arms.
It also comes with instructions on how and what to do. A lot of people don't read the instructions, or leave it to the "shop" who's gonna do it thinking they're the experts, and end up with a missing metal sleeve and costing them more to buy another control arm since the sleeve is not available in the market.
First thing you do is remove the control arms. Driver side requires you to remove the bolts holding the windshield washer fluid tank so you can slip off the long bolt holding the upper control arm. There is a slight difference in bolt sizes and assembly for the lower control arms through the years. My '95 have a support rod attached to the camber bolt of the lower control arms, and chargerfan's '92 doesn't. And best tool to loosen the ball joint bolts is the big sized pitman arm puller, which you can rent from Autozone for $15(or you can bang it with a huge hammer, the old school way).
Don't forget to mark the camber washers so your alignment wouldn't be so bad and you can still drive your SC to the alignment shop. Orrrrrrr, y'all can hit up chargerfan for alignment!
Once the control arms are off of the car, bring the upper control arms to the press and press out the bushings!
Put grease all over the bushings and sleeves so it wouldn't squeak so much once installed in the car.
Installing the new bushings on isn't so bad. You can use your 2 hands to press them in.
The lower control arms is a different story. You need to torch the rubber bushings out to install the polyurethanes. I find it to be the easiest way to use a long flat head screwdriver to help pry out the metal bushings while the flames is burning the rubber.
The camber side of the arm has 3 sleeves total. You have an outer sleeve which is perfectly pressed in in the "ear", which is also the reason why you have to burn out the rubber bushing, because the poly bushing requires it to be on. There's a middle metal sleeve, that you need to pry out while and when the rubber is already burning to help the flames burn the rubber inside quicker. And the center sleeve which supports the camber bolt when its installed in the car, which is also gonna be reused for the poly's.
Center Sleeve
Last edited by OG Dada; 05-30-12 at 09:15 AM.
05-30-12, 02:31 AM
#88
The caster side only have 2 sleeves. The outer sleeve and the center sleeve needs to be reused same as the other side. Do I need to point out that the bushing is cracked all the way around it? I don't think so, that's exactly the reason why we're doing this right?
This is how the center sleeve looks like with the rubber completely burned off of it.
WARNING: Make sure to spray cold water over the control arms and the center sleeves before touching it.
Installing the poly bushings on the lower control arms also require a bit of brute force unlike the upper control arms. Best way to do this is by hitting it with a rubber mallet.
After all of this, dispose off the burnt rubber properly.
Install the control arms back on the car. You'll notice that the bushing for the camber side of the lower control arm would be too thick to fit in the crossmember now. Easiest way to install it would be lifting the arm in place with a jack. It would slice off a very thin layer of the polyurethane, no biggie.
And since you're doing polyurethane bushings, might as well do everything including the sway bar bushings. It's very easy to install so no need for pics for it. Huge difference between the old one and the poly, you'd immediately feel the difference after installing it.
We're also gonna do the entire rear suspension with the polyurethane bushings in a couple of weeks, so stay tuned!
This is how the center sleeve looks like with the rubber completely burned off of it.
WARNING: Make sure to spray cold water over the control arms and the center sleeves before touching it.
Installing the poly bushings on the lower control arms also require a bit of brute force unlike the upper control arms. Best way to do this is by hitting it with a rubber mallet.
After all of this, dispose off the burnt rubber properly.
Install the control arms back on the car. You'll notice that the bushing for the camber side of the lower control arm would be too thick to fit in the crossmember now. Easiest way to install it would be lifting the arm in place with a jack. It would slice off a very thin layer of the polyurethane, no biggie.
And since you're doing polyurethane bushings, might as well do everything including the sway bar bushings. It's very easy to install so no need for pics for it. Huge difference between the old one and the poly, you'd immediately feel the difference after installing it.
We're also gonna do the entire rear suspension with the polyurethane bushings in a couple of weeks, so stay tuned!
Last edited by OG Dada; 05-30-12 at 08:20 AM.
