My first LS400 build 1991
05-09-12, 06:35 AM
#17
Driver
Thread Starter
I removed the failing gassprings from the hood cleaned them and packed them for shipping to a gaspspring factory. There they will be tested refilled or even better remade from nothing.
30 $ per spring .... better then new.
i have read the engine code 21 & 28 meaning left en right front bank o2 sensors are doomed...
does anyone of you guys know an company in the USA who sells these things and ships them to europe ?
i tried 3 times now and my order keeps being rejected. Some sites are so vage now where is to find wheter they ship to euope.
this problem is solved O2 sensors are ordered.
greetzzzz from Lexter
30 $ per spring .... better then new.
i have read the engine code 21 & 28 meaning left en right front bank o2 sensors are doomed...
does anyone of you guys know an company in the USA who sells these things and ships them to europe ?
i tried 3 times now and my order keeps being rejected. Some sites are so vage now where is to find wheter they ship to euope.
this problem is solved O2 sensors are ordered.
greetzzzz from Lexter
Last edited by LexterLS40; 05-09-12 at 04:22 PM.
05-09-12, 04:32 PM
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
thanks anyway ....
we try them for the next purchase !!
www.rockauto.com is a awsome site sheizze i was to quick ordering at http://www.**************/store/?Ntt...1%2B4294963735 because they sell witout the connector for the price rockauto does it with connector.
patience is my biggest enemy ....
thanks 504 i am going to use this website defenitly
we try them for the next purchase !!
www.rockauto.com is a awsome site sheizze i was to quick ordering at http://www.**************/store/?Ntt...1%2B4294963735 because they sell witout the connector for the price rockauto does it with connector.
patience is my biggest enemy ....
thanks 504 i am going to use this website defenitly
Last edited by LexterLS40; 05-09-12 at 04:37 PM.
05-10-12, 02:42 PM
#20
Driver School Candidate
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That's not a bad price seeing how its a 90 and 4.0 liter. For those that don't know cars are taxed 100% to 200% in Vietnam. I do export/import and now it's even harder to get cars to vietnam with the new laws... you sir must be from Hanoi, Hai Phong, or 1st district in Saigon. Only people in the whole country that can afford cars 
. I drive a 2006 accord in vietnam and people are like "Dai Gia" lol keep in mind that accord cost me 70k with tax and tags lol. Qha do you have a custom license plate? LMK if you need one.
. I drive a 2006 accord in vietnam and people are like "Dai Gia" lol keep in mind that accord cost me 70k with tax and tags lol. Qha do you have a custom license plate? LMK if you need one.
05-10-12, 05:05 PM
#21
Driver
Thread Starter
LMK ?
teach me please ....
so import prices different stronlgy on these type off cars ... interresting.
Here in the Netherlands Lexus sold 760 generation 1 ls400 together.
That was 21 years ago, problably 200 went down to the scrapyard to be sold in pieces.
So another 560 should be gliding over the roads, i see them rarely.
Last time on the parking lot his twinbrother with almost the same license plate ( here the plate is stuck to the car from the moment it leaves the dealer.)
I am looking for a nice donor LS400 .... not more then 400$.
Spread my wish pls.
the netherlands are somewhere in europe close to Amsterdam.
teach me please ....
so import prices different stronlgy on these type off cars ... interresting.
Here in the Netherlands Lexus sold 760 generation 1 ls400 together.
That was 21 years ago, problably 200 went down to the scrapyard to be sold in pieces.
So another 560 should be gliding over the roads, i see them rarely.
Last time on the parking lot his twinbrother with almost the same license plate ( here the plate is stuck to the car from the moment it leaves the dealer.)
I am looking for a nice donor LS400 .... not more then 400$.
Spread my wish pls.
the netherlands are somewhere in europe close to Amsterdam.
05-10-12, 05:17 PM
#23
Driver
Thread Starter
I forgot the dustboot on the left side rear airstrut.
Au garage du Maarten
le presse
the lefside spring cleaned and greased up before closing her up with the dustboot
this photo is taken from down to up
airstrut with airhose
rust i need to paint away
old damage from spanish cop is eating my door
new flas light i need the innerwork + wiring does anyone has these and would you be so kind to send them to holland ???
the RX rims need to poadercoated ... i am dreaming about an black ls400 i mean mat and mat means no shine.
i am so busy .....
le presse
the lefside spring cleaned and greased up before closing her up with the dustboot
this photo is taken from down to up
airstrut with airhose
rust i need to paint away
old damage from spanish cop is eating my door
new flas light i need the innerwork + wiring does anyone has these and would you be so kind to send them to holland ???
the RX rims need to poadercoated ... i am dreaming about an black ls400 i mean mat and mat means no shine.
i am so busy .....
05-11-12, 04:59 AM
#25
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LMK ?
teach me please ....
so import prices different stronlgy on these type off cars ... interresting.
Here in the Netherlands Lexus sold 760 generation 1 ls400 together.
That was 21 years ago, problably 200 went down to the scrapyard to be sold in pieces.
So another 560 should be gliding over the roads, i see them rarely.
Last time on the parking lot his twinbrother with almost the same license plate ( here the plate is stuck to the car from the moment it leaves the dealer.)
I am looking for a nice donor LS400 .... not more then 400$.
Spread my wish pls.
the netherlands are somewhere in europe close to Amsterdam.
teach me please ....
so import prices different stronlgy on these type off cars ... interresting.
Here in the Netherlands Lexus sold 760 generation 1 ls400 together.
That was 21 years ago, problably 200 went down to the scrapyard to be sold in pieces.
So another 560 should be gliding over the roads, i see them rarely.
Last time on the parking lot his twinbrother with almost the same license plate ( here the plate is stuck to the car from the moment it leaves the dealer.)
I am looking for a nice donor LS400 .... not more then 400$.
Spread my wish pls.
the netherlands are somewhere in europe close to Amsterdam.
LMK = Let Me Know
i got my car from a broker in Japan. Cost about $11k all-in to get it delivered to my door. That was approximately 5 years ago, so prices have changed since then.
05-16-12, 02:24 AM
#26
Driver
Thread Starter
overhauling
Hi quys,
The LS is still gliding like a bird trough the sky.
I washed my seatbuckle safetybelt and what a difference, everytime i got out the car the belt would lay on the seat waiting to be extracted by the mechanism.
But it would't in the worst case it would hang out the door and when i throw the door to close it would **** UP my paint.
That is al histyory now .... thanks to this forum !!
The LS is still gliding like a bird trough the sky.
I washed my seatbuckle safetybelt and what a difference, everytime i got out the car the belt would lay on the seat waiting to be extracted by the mechanism.
But it would't in the worst case it would hang out the door and when i throw the door to close it would **** UP my paint.
That is al histyory now .... thanks to this forum !!
06-26-12, 06:49 PM
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
Allrighty ...
Little update:
I changed the timimg belt and everything that belongs with it.
Pulled out plastic bags out of the thermostsat. I did not do the pump.
It was a lot of work and ik messed it up of course.
I did more then 1 one wrong, bottomline i didn't make it home.
The car stoot for 15 days like a predical son.
I changed the PTS with the sub PTS and that gave a high iddle with refused to gear up the tranny.
But now she is ok i have to finish the valves soon.
Greetzzzz
Lexter
Little update:
I changed the timimg belt and everything that belongs with it.
Pulled out plastic bags out of the thermostsat. I did not do the pump.
It was a lot of work and ik messed it up of course.
I did more then 1 one wrong, bottomline i didn't make it home.
The car stoot for 15 days like a predical son.
I changed the PTS with the sub PTS and that gave a high iddle with refused to gear up the tranny.
But now she is ok i have to finish the valves soon.
Greetzzzz
Lexter
07-14-12, 11:52 AM
#28
Driver
Thread Starter
Toyota and Lexus the Charcoal Canister tutorial:
Toyota and Lexus the Charcoal Canister tutorial:
This is a Do It Yourself maintanence job for the EVAP system on your V8.
Save 350 euros + de- and installations costs for a new char coal canister and the enviremont, this is a safe and simple job.
It took me a couple of hours but if i were you i would take all day and check the other components wich are located there aswell. ( after i saw the rust at the bottom it took me a lot more hours to get that rust painted.) So off i went to the petstore:
When the charcoal canister is cloaked and soaked with dirth, gasoline or rust particals the EVAP is disturbed wich leads to rough iddle or even worse an overflaoting tank. Mostly it is the valve creating problems, it could be electric or in my case no electrical parts just a stupid valve. This valve should open eand close at a certain pressure ( i do not know how much) there is also a filter to and 2 screens to keep everything at its place. Whenever you can smell fuel vapor it is time to get to the Char Coal Canister from now on named the CCC. When ever you have iddle problems it is time to check the EVAP.
This is the top lit made of plastic wich you can remove do not worry the matal housing will not open just like that.
For the Lexus LS400 generation 1 this CCC is located underneath the left frontfender in front of the wheel.
It is an Toyota oem part as you can see.
- remove the left front wheel
- make it safe put something underneath your chassis or lose a limp.
- remove the thin trim line
- remove the plastic rain and dirth fender with al lot of bolts
- when the fender is removed the CCC is clearly visible and reachable.
- disconnect purge, tank and bottem exit hoses ( 3 pieces)
- connect the 2 hoses with a piece of thinner pipe in case you need the car on the road. ( menawhile you can re fill and clean the CCC)
-dismount the filter and bracket
- remove the plastic around the metal house.
We can see the plastic covers now seperated from the metal housing.
The bottom is a bit rusty and i need to take care of that
The valve finally clearly visible, it is a closed system i can't ( or i don not know ) how to get the valve out.
tools and supplies needed from now on:
- new charcoal from the petstore ( 10$)
- new filter material form the petstore ( 5 $)
- new bolts m6 for bottom plate
- metal grinder as thin as possible ( to cut the metal housing)
- ear protection
- eye protection ( igot hit by a splinter again)
- gloves ( i cut my thumb on the edge of the fresh cut of the pan )
- bucket ( it poored out so fast i could only look at it and laugh)
- masking tape
- rustbusters
- paint
- a way to close the tank again. ( i choose epoxy)
- DIY spirit.
the tool i use to make the cut:
Once the housing is cut open in 2 exact the same lines or halves, that is why i used mask tape and marked the cut with a + so ik know how to glue it perfect and tight. Now it is time to clean everything and most important for my CCC is to check the purge valve.
Make sure you put a bucket underneath the CCC it will poor out and is quite smelly and vapors will be released no fire ! Some people bake the coal just burn it to get rid of the vapor and reuse it.
In my CCC there is now way to remove the valve, it is made forever so the only thing i can do is blow air through the valve and use some kind of material to pass through the valves in and outlets. As the tank builds up a vacuum it could implode this is why your cap and it's gasket are imoprtant to check aswell. Whenever i fill my tank up and i open the cap i hear and feel the vacume pressure and it should alert you that something is wrong, wich leads to the purge inlet. So when you disconnect the hose wich comes from the tank you should be able to smell and feel some fuel vapor pressure comming out of that hose, if not the hose or metal fuel pipe is clocked. What confuses me it the fact that the tank should blow fuel vapor into the CCC but when i open the lit it seems to be sucking vacume but maybe i am wrong and should feel and smell more closely if it is going in or out.
The bottom filter and pan i am not happy with the rust it should be rust and dirt free so i get on with it.
Inside the CCC let us have a closer look:
Once everything is cleared and aproved by yourself do not trust anyone on this job, it is time to fill the CCC and make it airtight.
I used polyester it is strong and it glues good. You can choose any way you wish if i had some welding experience i would weld it. ( to be honest the paint is drying now and i will have to close the CCC tommorrow.)
I made advantage of the plastic ring that belongs to the frameholder or better CCC holder.
It keeps the two halves in place but you must work very thin otherwise it will jam the CCC holder from getting in it's correct place.
When the two halves are together it is time to reinstall the reverse way you took it off.
Do not forget to check the EVAP hoses for small leakages, old hoses should be replaced because after 21 years not 1 hose will make that air tight perfect vacume.
Enjoy your LS400 for another 100.000 km without any fuel vapors or overfloating tanks at the fill station, and a fine sucking EVAP system.
UPDATE: After driving a couple of tanks i can say that it was worth it ...
My vacume is much better now no more smelling gasoline and no more extreem pressure build up in the tank it self.
greetings from Lexter
This is a Do It Yourself maintanence job for the EVAP system on your V8.
Save 350 euros + de- and installations costs for a new char coal canister and the enviremont, this is a safe and simple job.
It took me a couple of hours but if i were you i would take all day and check the other components wich are located there aswell. ( after i saw the rust at the bottom it took me a lot more hours to get that rust painted.) So off i went to the petstore:
When the charcoal canister is cloaked and soaked with dirth, gasoline or rust particals the EVAP is disturbed wich leads to rough iddle or even worse an overflaoting tank. Mostly it is the valve creating problems, it could be electric or in my case no electrical parts just a stupid valve. This valve should open eand close at a certain pressure ( i do not know how much) there is also a filter to and 2 screens to keep everything at its place. Whenever you can smell fuel vapor it is time to get to the Char Coal Canister from now on named the CCC. When ever you have iddle problems it is time to check the EVAP.
This is the top lit made of plastic wich you can remove do not worry the matal housing will not open just like that.
For the Lexus LS400 generation 1 this CCC is located underneath the left frontfender in front of the wheel.
It is an Toyota oem part as you can see.
- remove the left front wheel
- make it safe put something underneath your chassis or lose a limp.
- remove the thin trim line
- remove the plastic rain and dirth fender with al lot of bolts
- when the fender is removed the CCC is clearly visible and reachable.
- disconnect purge, tank and bottem exit hoses ( 3 pieces)
- connect the 2 hoses with a piece of thinner pipe in case you need the car on the road. ( menawhile you can re fill and clean the CCC)
-dismount the filter and bracket
- remove the plastic around the metal house.
We can see the plastic covers now seperated from the metal housing.
The bottom is a bit rusty and i need to take care of that
The valve finally clearly visible, it is a closed system i can't ( or i don not know ) how to get the valve out.
tools and supplies needed from now on:
- new charcoal from the petstore ( 10$)
- new filter material form the petstore ( 5 $)
- new bolts m6 for bottom plate
- metal grinder as thin as possible ( to cut the metal housing)
- ear protection
- eye protection ( igot hit by a splinter again)
- gloves ( i cut my thumb on the edge of the fresh cut of the pan )
- bucket ( it poored out so fast i could only look at it and laugh)
- masking tape
- rustbusters
- paint
- a way to close the tank again. ( i choose epoxy)
- DIY spirit.
the tool i use to make the cut:
Once the housing is cut open in 2 exact the same lines or halves, that is why i used mask tape and marked the cut with a + so ik know how to glue it perfect and tight. Now it is time to clean everything and most important for my CCC is to check the purge valve.
Make sure you put a bucket underneath the CCC it will poor out and is quite smelly and vapors will be released no fire ! Some people bake the coal just burn it to get rid of the vapor and reuse it.
In my CCC there is now way to remove the valve, it is made forever so the only thing i can do is blow air through the valve and use some kind of material to pass through the valves in and outlets. As the tank builds up a vacuum it could implode this is why your cap and it's gasket are imoprtant to check aswell. Whenever i fill my tank up and i open the cap i hear and feel the vacume pressure and it should alert you that something is wrong, wich leads to the purge inlet. So when you disconnect the hose wich comes from the tank you should be able to smell and feel some fuel vapor pressure comming out of that hose, if not the hose or metal fuel pipe is clocked. What confuses me it the fact that the tank should blow fuel vapor into the CCC but when i open the lit it seems to be sucking vacume but maybe i am wrong and should feel and smell more closely if it is going in or out.
The bottom filter and pan i am not happy with the rust it should be rust and dirt free so i get on with it.
Inside the CCC let us have a closer look:
Once everything is cleared and aproved by yourself do not trust anyone on this job, it is time to fill the CCC and make it airtight.
I used polyester it is strong and it glues good. You can choose any way you wish if i had some welding experience i would weld it. ( to be honest the paint is drying now and i will have to close the CCC tommorrow.)
I made advantage of the plastic ring that belongs to the frameholder or better CCC holder.
It keeps the two halves in place but you must work very thin otherwise it will jam the CCC holder from getting in it's correct place.
When the two halves are together it is time to reinstall the reverse way you took it off.
Do not forget to check the EVAP hoses for small leakages, old hoses should be replaced because after 21 years not 1 hose will make that air tight perfect vacume.
Enjoy your LS400 for another 100.000 km without any fuel vapors or overfloating tanks at the fill station, and a fine sucking EVAP system.
UPDATE: After driving a couple of tanks i can say that it was worth it ...
My vacume is much better now no more smelling gasoline and no more extreem pressure build up in the tank it self.
greetings from Lexter
Last edited by LexterLS40; 08-22-12 at 01:30 PM.
07-14-12, 12:48 PM
#29
Driver
Thread Starter
New fuel filter in placed in 4 days ..... and it cost me 150$
this is one of the 2 flange nuts to get to the filter and correct the problems i had to roemve the exhaust and heat shield.
wich menas i had to repair the holes in the heatshiled and the bolts had to be drilled out.
that costed me 1 day ......
It was one hell of a job to do, by the sight of the filter and it flange nuts it should tell anyone enough.
i was not prepared with new nuts so i tried to save the old ones what a waste of time.
not even de WD40 was a real help
how do you heat up a fuel tube nutt without a flame ? yes with the mini conductor wich i did not have.
so i cut out the filter and bought a flange tool
and 1 meter of fuel pipe
2 connctions fast connectors and i made 1 piece of new line with a new flange and i saved the other one.
[IMG]http://imageshack.us
/a/img651/3393/pa240063u.th.jpg[/IMG]
so off i went and called a cap to get the flange nutt what a hell to find one.
but i made it i beated the rust and the LS 400 loves it.
greetzzz Lexter
wich menas i had to repair the holes in the heatshiled and the bolts had to be drilled out.
that costed me 1 day ......
It was one hell of a job to do, by the sight of the filter and it flange nuts it should tell anyone enough.
i was not prepared with new nuts so i tried to save the old ones what a waste of time.
not even de WD40 was a real help
how do you heat up a fuel tube nutt without a flame ? yes with the mini conductor wich i did not have.
so i cut out the filter and bought a flange tool
and 1 meter of fuel pipe
2 connctions fast connectors and i made 1 piece of new line with a new flange and i saved the other one.
[IMG]http://imageshack.us
/a/img651/3393/pa240063u.th.jpg[/IMG]
so off i went and called a cap to get the flange nutt what a hell to find one.
but i made it i beated the rust and the LS 400 loves it.
greetzzz Lexter
Last edited by LexterLS40; 07-14-12 at 01:50 PM.
