My first LS400 build 1991
#46
My LS400 friends,
I need advise:
There is a LS400 arrived from the UK, steering on the right side.
It has an engine and i can buy it but the build is from 1997 and mine is 1991.
This means the engine will not fit ?
Correct me if am wrong !!
The say the samething about airshocks but ik got a right shock fitted on the leftside.
So is it impossible to plug and pray the engine in ..... or is it possible wiuth some small adaptions.
Greet
Lexxie
I need advise:
There is a LS400 arrived from the UK, steering on the right side.
It has an engine and i can buy it but the build is from 1997 and mine is 1991.
This means the engine will not fit ?
Correct me if am wrong !!
The say the samething about airshocks but ik got a right shock fitted on the leftside.
So is it impossible to plug and pray the engine in ..... or is it possible wiuth some small adaptions.
Greet
Lexxie
#48
I have 1 simple question for today !!!
Does a ls400 have an extra cooler for the powersteering ?
Should it be cooled along with the AT in line or separetly
each component has it own cooling unit.
Because now the PS pump is without but the AT has it doubled up, it flows through the radiator wich has 1 inlet and 1 oultet for cooling another component then the water.
And then this same hose goes to a small coolerunit that is mounted in front of the evaporizer.
I am confused what is the standard ?
Thanks a lot ...
o yeah i found a engine farmer willing to ship 1 engine for 350 $ from harbor to harbor..
Does a ls400 have an extra cooler for the powersteering ?
Should it be cooled along with the AT in line or separetly
each component has it own cooling unit.
Because now the PS pump is without but the AT has it doubled up, it flows through the radiator wich has 1 inlet and 1 oultet for cooling another component then the water.
And then this same hose goes to a small coolerunit that is mounted in front of the evaporizer.
I am confused what is the standard ?
Thanks a lot ...
o yeah i found a engine farmer willing to ship 1 engine for 350 $ from harbor to harbor..
#49
and i found out that my clutchfan is wobbling wich hopefully once replaced with everything behind it makes an end to this engine ticking.
because the tensioner from the serpent belt also makes noises when i grab it and try to move ot lateral.
i went pretty deep this week and removed the oilpan hoping to find find prove that the engine is ruined but no, everything is still in one piece but there is an oil problem with the oil pressure.
i will do an oil cpressure test and cilinder compression test.
greetzzzz
Lexter
because the tensioner from the serpent belt also makes noises when i grab it and try to move ot lateral.
i went pretty deep this week and removed the oilpan hoping to find find prove that the engine is ruined but no, everything is still in one piece but there is an oil problem with the oil pressure.
i will do an oil cpressure test and cilinder compression test.
greetzzzz
Lexter
#50
to my understanding YES there is a separate cooler for the power steering. the cooler for the transmission is built into the radiator. the power steering cool is in front of the condenser and radiator.
item 44402 POWER STEERING OIL COOLER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.1
item 44402 POWER STEERING OIL COOLER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.1
#51
for some clarification, they call it a "cooler" but in reality it is a single piece of metal hardline in some obscured airflow. Part of the return line iirc.
#52
@ Drifter,
Are u banned and back now ?
Back OT,
Thanks guys this is really clear, so there is a cooling unit but in the form of a metal cooling tube not a radiator. My manuals say the small radiator is my AT cooler but the book presents the USA, Canada models i have an european model 1991.
Because i do have the radiator in front of the vaporizer but it leaks, and since i changed the water radiator i simply forgot wheter the hose was connected to the innercooler of the old radiator or the small radiator.
So for now the AT uses the innercooler and the pump is only cooling through its metal tubes.
I will study the diagrams more closely and see if i can find any options to get the PS pump on the cooling aswel. Becuase there are no loose hoses hanging ariound waiting for me to connect them. So somewhere i have to cut in the little radiator.
i bought some new stuff from Rockauto.com they truelly rock hard !!
The famous Toyota pump for 60$
AT kit
Engine still ticking .... like a clock ..... tic tac ...
To do:
Head overhaul: taking it off, bring it home clean it really good, check every valve every little oil channel and adjust the valve clearance.
New oil pump
New waterpump
New fan clutch
New oilpump seal
New crankshaft seal
New AT filter
New oil filter
New fuel filter
When the engine still ticks i will prepare the second hand new engine for a swap.
because it will run like before , silky smooth Lexus full air ride.
Also i have bought a donor vehicle and that is fun becasue now the LS won't be touched if i change some bushings on these spare parts.
Are u banned and back now ?
Back OT,
Thanks guys this is really clear, so there is a cooling unit but in the form of a metal cooling tube not a radiator. My manuals say the small radiator is my AT cooler but the book presents the USA, Canada models i have an european model 1991.
Because i do have the radiator in front of the vaporizer but it leaks, and since i changed the water radiator i simply forgot wheter the hose was connected to the innercooler of the old radiator or the small radiator.
So for now the AT uses the innercooler and the pump is only cooling through its metal tubes.
I will study the diagrams more closely and see if i can find any options to get the PS pump on the cooling aswel. Becuase there are no loose hoses hanging ariound waiting for me to connect them. So somewhere i have to cut in the little radiator.
i bought some new stuff from Rockauto.com they truelly rock hard !!
The famous Toyota pump for 60$
AT kit
Engine still ticking .... like a clock ..... tic tac ...
To do:
Head overhaul: taking it off, bring it home clean it really good, check every valve every little oil channel and adjust the valve clearance.
New oil pump
New waterpump
New fan clutch
New oilpump seal
New crankshaft seal
New AT filter
New oil filter
New fuel filter
When the engine still ticks i will prepare the second hand new engine for a swap.
because it will run like before , silky smooth Lexus full air ride.
Also i have bought a donor vehicle and that is fun becasue now the LS won't be touched if i change some bushings on these spare parts.
#53
bushings
Ok i am doing the bushes but ik need advice:
These are the metal bushings that came out of the reserve UCA
Reserve lower ball joint
the reserve lower arm
front axe
The old reserve UCA balljoint and this is what i want to replace the thread is ruined the joint is ok but the bushings are lost i do not wanna buy a new arm with a ****ty balljoint from Lexus.
The inner metal bushes still have to be remove
The other problem rubbers ... for later.
greetz LExter
These are the metal bushings that came out of the reserve UCA
Reserve lower ball joint
the reserve lower arm
front axe
The old reserve UCA balljoint and this is what i want to replace the thread is ruined the joint is ok but the bushings are lost i do not wanna buy a new arm with a ****ty balljoint from Lexus.
The inner metal bushes still have to be remove
The other problem rubbers ... for later.
greetz LExter
#55
lol i'm not banned. leftover from april.
You really should search a little harder, the "ticking" you're describing sounds like the usual valve-lash being out of spec. a relatively cheap fix, just a lot of labor. search for the threads on it.
You really should search a little harder, the "ticking" you're describing sounds like the usual valve-lash being out of spec. a relatively cheap fix, just a lot of labor. search for the threads on it.
#56
Yes Drifter i am a lasy amateur i know and i will spend more time in searching answers i promise you. And i also know that my left cam is loosing up.
Due to my own fault is has developed more space and more ticking.
I cleaned the lobes removed the dirty layer wich was actually filling up the clearance.
I then noticed that the lobes are damaged or better they wear like other parts.
I missed the part there that i could and should have cleaned the oil channels in the cam.
So i noticed that i have a carbon buildup in the head en probably on top of the pistons and valves will not get the change to seal properly.
Today i will do a comression test on 8 cilinders wich will tell us more.
So when ik walk around the LS the ticking sound fades and another tick comes inplace.
This other tick comes from the bottom engine begin AT.
The engine has 450.000 km on the clock now we must keep that in mind, every tight connection is loosing up making space to loose oil pressure wich heats up the working tempature wich leads to more sludge.
Oil pressure is low and i will change the oilpump and revise the old one with new rotors.
When the LS is on iddle the red light comes on when rpm raises it goes out.
I tested the oil presure and at Iddle it was way to low, i must admit i didn't have a gasket for the pick up pipe in the oilpan wich is probably the real cause for the low oil pressure switch to go red.
i know ... i create my own problems.
Many thanks for reacting
Greetz
Lexxie
Due to my own fault is has developed more space and more ticking.
I cleaned the lobes removed the dirty layer wich was actually filling up the clearance.
I then noticed that the lobes are damaged or better they wear like other parts.
I missed the part there that i could and should have cleaned the oil channels in the cam.
So i noticed that i have a carbon buildup in the head en probably on top of the pistons and valves will not get the change to seal properly.
Today i will do a comression test on 8 cilinders wich will tell us more.
So when ik walk around the LS the ticking sound fades and another tick comes inplace.
This other tick comes from the bottom engine begin AT.
The engine has 450.000 km on the clock now we must keep that in mind, every tight connection is loosing up making space to loose oil pressure wich heats up the working tempature wich leads to more sludge.
Oil pressure is low and i will change the oilpump and revise the old one with new rotors.
When the LS is on iddle the red light comes on when rpm raises it goes out.
I tested the oil presure and at Iddle it was way to low, i must admit i didn't have a gasket for the pick up pipe in the oilpan wich is probably the real cause for the low oil pressure switch to go red.
i know ... i create my own problems.
Many thanks for reacting
Greetz
Lexxie
#57
Does any of you guys know if anyone ever has been able to remove the UCA 's balljoint replace it and succesfully drove for antoher 100.00 km with the new bushings and the new balljoint ?
On the inet it seems to stop by just changing the bushing whenever the balljoint fails they just buy new arms.
I brought the UCA's to a garage and they pressed it out now i need to find new balljoints.
NAPPA has them but not for my vehicle but i do not buy that crap.
They do not tell the sizes on the website.
I need to know there partnumber on the size balljoint i need.
Also they do not send to europe .... but now i have bongo.
Who has orderded balljoint before me ?
Greetz
Lexter
On the inet it seems to stop by just changing the bushing whenever the balljoint fails they just buy new arms.
I brought the UCA's to a garage and they pressed it out now i need to find new balljoints.
NAPPA has them but not for my vehicle but i do not buy that crap.
They do not tell the sizes on the website.
I need to know there partnumber on the size balljoint i need.
Also they do not send to europe .... but now i have bongo.
Who has orderded balljoint before me ?
Greetz
Lexter
#58
We are being ripped off by these UCA pushers.
Last edited by LexterLS40; 09-12-12 at 03:02 AM.