Trevstuh

Oh ok, after I pulled the harness through the firewall I saw what you was talking about. Looks like a piece of cake to me, I just got to get the 1jz now and finish up.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

awesome. good luck man! i did about 90% of the work on my car myself.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

ok here are a few updates.

i changed the clutch last week. i put in an ACT Extreme Clutch kit i got used from a boardmember nikoy.
it has about 700 miles on it or so. looks in great condition so i went with it.



and here is the disc. its a 6 puck.



next i removed the transmission. not many pics here. all i can tell u is it was kinda difficult at first. but i had it out in about 90 minutes.



removing the pressure plate was a first for me on this type of pressure plate setup. apparently toyota/aisin made it so you have to remove a C-clip and pull out a pin to release the Fork then you can pull out the pressure plate. that is why you have those 2 openings on the sides. lemme tell you. you NEED small *** hands to get in there to do that.

moving along here are a few pics of the under side. i didnt remove the pressure plate. because i didnt have the money to buy new flywheel bolts... they are like 10 bux a piece... MY COST at toyota. so i decided against that. the rear main wasn't leaking anyway.





when i removed the old clutch. i found it was replaced not too long after it was dismantled in japan. so i may just sell it. im sure someone can use a slightly used OEM clutch on the cheap.









anyway its all done now. it doesn't feel that much different from the stock clutch to me. i have to bleed it a bit more but other than that its okay.

please dont remind me about the horror stories of this infamous clutch and pressure plate. im aware of it and i will deal with it if i am of the unlucky that what they are known for afflict me.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

a few days ago I recieved the triple gauge pod that i will use for intrumentation. i decided to go with Boost, Wideband AEM, and Water Temp....

i dont trust the water temp gauge now. the 330ohm is just a trick to make the needle move. its extremely inaccurate.

i decided to place it in the glove box. dont really want a luxury car to look like a riced out honda. so im going stealth and putting it in the box. here are a few pics of the progress thus far.



i found these Autometer gauges in a turbo Z31 in the junkyard. so i scored me a water temp, boost and also grabbed a Greddy Turbo Timer with harness. but thats for later.

so i placed them into the gauge pod. made a hole in the back and wired them up. easy as pie.



next i took out the glove box and that was kinda fun.



i drilled a hole in the back of the box about where i want the wires to feed into the gauges. i used a grommet to keep the wires nice looking. its not seen, but its there.



and here we are. i didnt get to finish. because i still have to run the temperature probe. i think i may run it in the bottom of the radiator. not sure yet. but it got dark here on july 2nd so i stopped. here is how it sits tentatively.

tomorrow i'll take finished pics with them showing operation.

july 4th i get this baby tuned.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

Update.

Took car to Lance in Miami, turns out in pre setup for dyno. Ran into a leaky intake manifold gasket on cylinders 5 and 6. And some issues with wiring. So no big power out of the one jay.

The crank sensor is too strong... It doesn't allow for low idle for some reason.

I will be pulling out the harness and going to eliminate the jumper extender.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

I was gonna say, that jumper harness looks pretty amateur for a shop doing it. I don't think the problem is with your crank sensor but is probably a problem with the way dm modded the aem. just a guess. How many miles you put on that manifold? I've repaired mine twice, and yeah, mine was warped out of the box too.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

You stated the resistor is reading inaccurate, just ground the wire in the harness and your temp will work like factory. if you need more help just ask man. sorry to hear about the intake gasket leaking. Things like this happen and it will all work out in the end. GL.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

the jumper harness is ok. the guy just used rtv to seal the connectors instead of a glue gun. but im gonna remove it. it worked fine for the stock ecu, but im running 2 jumper harnesses. so going to remove that one. and wire the ecu plugs straight to the honda ones on the AEM.

i was talking about the intake manifold gasket. i need a new one and no one sells them. and the dealer can't get them either.

i have a slight vacuum leak between on cylinders 5 and 6 on the intake gasket between the manifold and the collector that holds the injectors.

i seemed to be having an issue with the crank position sensor. it shows a weak signal at idle and causes stalling and when its revved high. its too strong. go figure.

those are my main issues and caused my car not to be able to be tuned.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

im running a temp gauge now. so that stock cluster gauge is useless to me. i dont rely on it anymore.

a shame there is no real proper fix for it.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

The only proper fix I went by is this link. The problem is that I had to ground both sides of the harness not just exactly how this is sayig to do it.. Stays right where it was when the V8 was in the SC/...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html

Just in case you ever needed it or someone else!

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

I know what you were talking about. I was asking about your turbo manifold because I have the same one and have repaired it twice in 20 thousand miles.

Also, find the specs in the 2jzgte service manual and use an ohm meter to see if your crank sensor is within spec. I bet it is. Then call dm about your aem

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

Oh okay. I only have 500 miles on mine.

I'm gonna check everything later. But i need a new intake gasket. And I can't get it anywhere

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

According to the tuner he said the raising edge and falling edge was all screwed up

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Is it the gasket at the head or the one between the upper and lower intakes? I would post a wtb on various forums for the intake to cyl head gasket, or just buy the heatshield one from driftmotion if it's the other one. Do the resistance check on your crank sensor and tell me what you find

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

here are the figures from the crank sensor.

i checked it cold and it shows 834-835 ohms
and hot after running it for about 15 minutes it ohm'd out at 925

according to the service manual. i am within specifications for cold.

the manual says cold 835-1400 for Denso sensor
the manual says cold 985-1600 for Aisan sensor

the manual says 1060-1645 for Denso Sensor
the manual says 1265-1890 for Aisan sensor

i ohm'd out 925 for hot. hot is 122 degree's but i dont know if the temperature was that hot. i figured after 15 minutes it should be that hot.

i'll recheck with a infrared temp gauge

the gasket i need is Plenum to intake collector (lower intake manifold) when i sprayed carb cleaner near the head to lower intake no bogging down. only on the plenum to lower intake.

today i found out titanmotorsports can order the 1jz intake manifold gasket... and they claim they can get it from toyota. however whenever i provide the actual part number to toyota and lexus they can't seem to order it. what gives? does titanmotorsports have some inside man that can get JDM parts only?

ugh... they want 73 bux for it. just ONE gasket.