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DoomLight's 1992 SC300 1JZ Swap & Build Thread

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Old 06-22-12, 05:55 PM
  #121  
DoomLight
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Originally Posted by JDMb16bEG6
How did you wire up the plugs for the fuse box? There's like 4 wires that are diff colors and don't know where to wire them to
Which wires are u talking about?
Old 06-22-12, 06:06 PM
  #122  
DoomLight
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So i found out that the reason it was running bad was because I pinched the metal intake gasket. I took the intake all the way off and copper sprayed it and made sure it went on good this time.

By the way its a lot of work to put the intake on in the car.

Next I ran vacuum to the wastegate and such.

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And here is the final engine bay pic.

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This all done. Need clutch and Tune.
Old 06-23-12, 04:24 PM
  #123  
Parker Gen
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Did you get that turbo intake pipe from cxracing? If not where from and how many ports does it have on it? It is perfect to be able to look at your engine bay and see exactly how much room I have to move with parts hahah

Oh and what caps did you use to block off the water pipes under the manifold and on the intake? Those from ebay? Are they rubber, would you go those blue silicone caps on ebay to block off water?
Old 06-23-12, 06:16 PM
  #124  
DoomLight
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Originally Posted by Parker Gen
Did you get that turbo intake pipe from cxracing? If not where from and how many ports does it have on it? It is perfect to be able to look at your engine bay and see exactly how much room I have to move with parts hahah

Oh and what caps did you use to block off the water pipes under the manifold and on the intake? Those from ebay? Are they rubber, would you go those blue silicone caps on ebay to block off water?
I got the intake from CXRACING. It has 3 holes. I'm going to have them removed anyway. You can find those rubber caps from the local parts store. Not expensive at all.
Old 06-23-12, 06:30 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by DoomLight
I got the intake from CXRACING. It has 3 holes. I'm going to have them removed anyway. You can find those rubber caps from the local parts store. Not expensive at all.
Cool! I need those holes in the intake anyway. What about silicone caps are they any good or will they break from heat?
Old 06-23-12, 06:57 PM
  #126  
JDMb16bEG6
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Originally Posted by DoomLight
Which wires are u talking about?
The two clips on the harness that goes to the bottom of the fuse box under the hood, my swap came with those 2 cut, and most of the wires match up except for like 4 wires
Old 06-23-12, 09:21 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by JDMb16bEG6
The two clips on the harness that goes to the bottom of the fuse box under the hood, my swap came with those 2 cut, and most of the wires match up except for like 4 wires


I will take pics for you. Mine were not cut.
Old 06-23-12, 10:28 PM
  #128  
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well i just got back from Fort Lauderdale. i picked up a slightly used ACT Extreme pressure plate and 6 puck sprung disc for a pretty decent deal. a board member was selling it.

i'll post pics after i get it really clean. then i just have to install the motha sukka!
Old 06-24-12, 04:20 AM
  #129  
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Brave man. I hope your thrust bearing holds up to that pressure plate!
Old 06-24-12, 06:44 AM
  #130  
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pics will go here
Old 06-24-12, 06:45 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
Brave man. I hope your thrust bearing holds up to that pressure plate!
i should be okay. i dont have the neutral safety switch hooked up. since mine is an automatic to manual swap.
Old 06-24-12, 07:33 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by DoomLight
i should be okay. i dont have the neutral safety switch hooked up. since mine is an automatic to manual swap.
You think so?

I had a crankwalk on act clutch same clutch you got mine was rated for 632tq i had 2 of these clutches because they hold the power with no problem, but i cost me 1 block , time and money remember i do alll my labor.

I want 800whp on my setup but why do you guys think i am still using the stock 7mgte pressure plate? I don't even wanna think about pulling engine back out .

right now if i but that act PP my car will make 750-760whp and i will be very happy with that power for a little while but it will cost me an engine and i decided not to do it

even with the clutch bypassed you will crankwalk

As a victim here are my answers

the two or really one washer that keeps your crank from going back and forth
gets thinner and thinner until it can’t take the load of the pressure plate when the clutch is depressed and it fails.

You will have metal in your pan and the thrust washers will fall in there too
but not after taking a ride around your lower block.

Your oil pump will suck up all that powdered metal and distribute it throughout your whole engine,
this process scored up my cam journals pretty badly.

When you get hit with the walk your car will stall when you push in the clutch.

it will be hard to start with the clutch pushed in.

You will have to flush the Turbo, it might take your Turbo out too..

I am not trying to be negative here , this is just a warming so you know what your are gettting
yourself into.
Old 06-24-12, 01:00 PM
  #133  
Trevstuh
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I read your whole entire thread bro. I will be hitting you up with questions even though it seems pretty logical that the body plugs that go to the fuse pannel on the driver side with have to be extended and if you want to you can extend the ecu plugs correct?
Old 06-24-12, 03:23 PM
  #134  
DoomLight
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im gonna take the clutch i just bought under advisement from QuickSC4. and hold on installing it for a week.
Old 06-24-12, 03:25 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Trevstuh
I read your whole entire thread bro. I will be hitting you up with questions even though it seems pretty logical that the body plugs that go to the fuse pannel on the driver side with have to be extended and if you want to you can extend the ecu plugs correct?
i only had to extend the Body plugs. i didnt want to cut the engine harness plugs. thats why i had that 18 inch extention harness made only for the engine ecu plugs. the body plugs were lengthend about 18 inches.


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