"Raine's SC300 (KEIRA 2.0) From the Beginning to End."
#440
quick question, how were you able to relocate the tail light bulbs? would like to do this to my 98. I know this is an old thread but any response will be helpful with some tips
#442
Driver School Candidate
08.26.10
Black Out
- Not even one month after the radiator incident, disaster #2 struck: on the way to the market I started hearing a faint, intermittent rubbing noise from the front left area. Before I got into a parking spot it happened – all electronics shut down as if someone removed the battery cable. Worse – no signals, brake lamps weren’t working, and that faint noise was now a loud scratching sound. Turns out my front left tire decided to play tug-of-war on my main harness, and the harness lost! Took me hours to extend, relocate, and rewire the main harness. Such a pain... if you are lowered, I sugest you do the harness relocation job right away.
Black Out
- Not even one month after the radiator incident, disaster #2 struck: on the way to the market I started hearing a faint, intermittent rubbing noise from the front left area. Before I got into a parking spot it happened – all electronics shut down as if someone removed the battery cable. Worse – no signals, brake lamps weren’t working, and that faint noise was now a loud scratching sound. Turns out my front left tire decided to play tug-of-war on my main harness, and the harness lost! Took me hours to extend, relocate, and rewire the main harness. Such a pain... if you are lowered, I sugest you do the harness relocation job right away.
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nlemus12 (07-08-20)
The following users liked this post:
nlemus12 (07-08-20)
#445
Driver School Candidate
#446
Driver School Candidate
So you recommend cutting all the wires so I can extend them with 18 awg wires by splicing them together or just the one that got ruined ?
#447
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
As you can see from my top pic (and you would have seen when you looked at your own harness), they're all packed tightly together. If you're starting to rub through one it is only a matter of time before you rub through them all. So your options are either cut and extend them, or raise your car enough that it doesn't rub. Anything short of those two methods is a band-aid.
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nlemus12 (07-10-20)
#448
Extend them all, use solder and heatshrink, and reroute the whole thing above the fender in the engine bay. If you just tuck them under the fender eventually they will somehow get sucked up by the tire again - so since you're already cutting and soldering, might as well take the opportunity to relocate it to inside the engine bay like I did.
Then you won't have to worry about the front tire touching the main harness ever again.
Then you won't have to worry about the front tire touching the main harness ever again.
The following users liked this post:
nlemus12 (07-10-20)
#449
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
Extend them all, use solder and heatshrink, and reroute the whole thing above the fender in the engine bay. If you just tuck them under the fender eventually they will somehow get sucked up by the tire again - so since you're already cutting and soldering, might as well take the opportunity to relocate it to inside the engine bay like I did.
Then you won't have to worry about the front tire touching the main harness ever again.
Then you won't have to worry about the front tire touching the main harness ever again.
IN the engine bay? I suppose if you don't mind the engine bay looking even more cluttered than it already does. But most people go out of their way to tuck wires out of the engine bay, not bring more in...
#450
There's room to run the whole harness - including wrap - in the area shown in blue (I used your picture). If you use Tesa tape and wrap it right, most people won't even notice it's there and will think it's part of the other OEM wiring harness that's already there, and with this route 1. you don't have to remove the fender, and 2. like I mentioned in my previous post, it will never have a chance to drop onto a wheel again.