Poorsupra's build thread
#46
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so i got the FMU rebuilt tonight, fixed my exhaust leaks. sounds a lot better, i finally got my 40psi fuel at idle, 90 primed. however i noticed what seems to be water leaking out of the v-band right at the turbo(hot side) def not fuel, its water/condensation.
on another note when i try to rev the motor it stumbles and hesitates. not a clean rev at all. MY GUESS is when i extended the TPS/MAF it threw off the readings the computer needs? i was told if i did a clean job(nice solder joints) that the resistance wouldnt be compromised. tps 12-18" extension, and the MAF is like 24-30" longer. only other wiring that was messed with was the secondary o2's....extended as well.
another theory is that the return line is too small and is causing a problem. i still need to get the gauges installed, theyre all bench tested and ready to go in, just got a new job and have been busy the past couple weeks.
please any insight is appreesh!
on another note when i try to rev the motor it stumbles and hesitates. not a clean rev at all. MY GUESS is when i extended the TPS/MAF it threw off the readings the computer needs? i was told if i did a clean job(nice solder joints) that the resistance wouldnt be compromised. tps 12-18" extension, and the MAF is like 24-30" longer. only other wiring that was messed with was the secondary o2's....extended as well.
another theory is that the return line is too small and is causing a problem. i still need to get the gauges installed, theyre all bench tested and ready to go in, just got a new job and have been busy the past couple weeks.
please any insight is appreesh!
#48
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (16)
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so i got the FMU rebuilt tonight, fixed my exhaust leaks. sounds a lot better, i finally got my 40psi fuel at idle, 90 primed. however i noticed what seems to be water leaking out of the v-band right at the turbo(hot side) def not fuel, its water/condensation.
on another note when i try to rev the motor it stumbles and hesitates. not a clean rev at all. MY GUESS is when i extended the TPS/MAF it threw off the readings the computer needs? i was told if i did a clean job(nice solder joints) that the resistance wouldnt be compromised. tps 12-18" extension, and the MAF is like 24-30" longer. only other wiring that was messed with was the secondary o2's....extended as well.
another theory is that the return line is too small and is causing a problem. i still need to get the gauges installed, theyre all bench tested and ready to go in, just got a new job and have been busy the past couple weeks.
please any insight is appreesh!
on another note when i try to rev the motor it stumbles and hesitates. not a clean rev at all. MY GUESS is when i extended the TPS/MAF it threw off the readings the computer needs? i was told if i did a clean job(nice solder joints) that the resistance wouldnt be compromised. tps 12-18" extension, and the MAF is like 24-30" longer. only other wiring that was messed with was the secondary o2's....extended as well.
another theory is that the return line is too small and is causing a problem. i still need to get the gauges installed, theyre all bench tested and ready to go in, just got a new job and have been busy the past couple weeks.
please any insight is appreesh!
might need to use shielded wire for wiring extension
#49
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Well hey cl! It's been a while, new job, new house. But I'm back.
I got my sc400-T up and running. After a blown turbo, and a lil tweaking here and there I've finally driven her a few times. And it's awesome. I'm seemingly having oil temp issues however. I installed a huge oil cooler along with a oil filter relocation kit to try and alleviate the issue. Haven't put any highway miles on, but in stop and go street driving the analog autometer oil temp gauge reads 250*. I'm thinking it could be a couple issues, either I bought the incorrect sending unit for the gauge, the gauge is faulty, or I need an electric fan to cool my external cooler(highway driving would cool it better)
Another issue is the koyo radiator I had purchased I can't seem to get the correct cap for. Every stant cap I've got for it does NOT seal off the overflow tube. Soooo, when it builds pressure it pushes it into my overflow. And since my sc300 overflow has the drain/vent on the cap it just pushes out.
I'm in serious need of my LSD/3.26 pumpkin installed along with an alignment.
On another note my aem wideband reads 15/14.9/14.8/14.7 and never changes to any other ratio, getting a p008/p006 error code. It worked perfectly fine in my honda, prior to installing it in the lexus.
I got my sc400-T up and running. After a blown turbo, and a lil tweaking here and there I've finally driven her a few times. And it's awesome. I'm seemingly having oil temp issues however. I installed a huge oil cooler along with a oil filter relocation kit to try and alleviate the issue. Haven't put any highway miles on, but in stop and go street driving the analog autometer oil temp gauge reads 250*. I'm thinking it could be a couple issues, either I bought the incorrect sending unit for the gauge, the gauge is faulty, or I need an electric fan to cool my external cooler(highway driving would cool it better)
Another issue is the koyo radiator I had purchased I can't seem to get the correct cap for. Every stant cap I've got for it does NOT seal off the overflow tube. Soooo, when it builds pressure it pushes it into my overflow. And since my sc300 overflow has the drain/vent on the cap it just pushes out.
I'm in serious need of my LSD/3.26 pumpkin installed along with an alignment.
On another note my aem wideband reads 15/14.9/14.8/14.7 and never changes to any other ratio, getting a p008/p006 error code. It worked perfectly fine in my honda, prior to installing it in the lexus.
Last edited by poorsupra; 09-01-14 at 02:18 PM.
#50
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Well I got the lsd installed, painted my kit, diagnosed my wideband error as a malfunctioning sensor, fixed my radiator issue, installed adjustable battle version toe links and traction rods,
ANNND then my car started to smoke, knowing my oil drain setup is ****ty I installed a scavenge pump to help but it was too little too late. A new cartridge is coming in the mail.
I'm ditching the 4" elbow and aem filter set up in place of a HKS mushroom filter that allows me to Pop in a stock headlight.
Still gotta clear coat my hood/trunk. Make that carbon SHINE!
Also gotta rotate the exhaust cut out up and away from the ground, it drags on everything.
Also I have plans to fabricate a custom aluminum diffuser, do some front fender aero work, and if my driveway gets paved soon I will whip up a roll cage.
ANNND then my car started to smoke, knowing my oil drain setup is ****ty I installed a scavenge pump to help but it was too little too late. A new cartridge is coming in the mail.
I'm ditching the 4" elbow and aem filter set up in place of a HKS mushroom filter that allows me to Pop in a stock headlight.
Still gotta clear coat my hood/trunk. Make that carbon SHINE!
Also gotta rotate the exhaust cut out up and away from the ground, it drags on everything.
Also I have plans to fabricate a custom aluminum diffuser, do some front fender aero work, and if my driveway gets paved soon I will whip up a roll cage.
#51
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Been busy, new cartridge from BAE turbo systems. Fabricated a diffuser. Installed a oil scavenge for turbo drain. Got adjustable rear UCA, toe links, traction rods, LSD is installed. Just cleaned all the oil out of my IC/piping from the bad turbo. Gonna install it, then do some front fender modification/fabrication.
#60
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My car caught fire today after testing out the turbo. I was running her fairly hard, trying to burn off some residual oil in the system after the last turbo failure. I was pulling up to my house and parking when I heard a poof then smoke pouring out of the hood. I pop the latch and run for the hose. It burned my carbon fiber hood, charcoal can melted, valve cover plastic, my wideband harness, and a couple wires and sheathing are melted. So thankful I was able to put it out quick. Or I would have watched her burn down. 😥 after trying to determine the cause of the fire I had a buddy prime my car(after it was cooled down) and noticed the screw that goes into the top of the stock fpr was loose, tightened it and it wouldn't tighten down, it's stripped. I'm assuming since fuel sprays out of the screw when primed that it let loose and just sprayed a hot motor. Going to buy a fire extinguisher to keep in my car from now on.