3rd Time's the Charm! Crispy SC300.
12-29-12, 05:09 PM
#91
Had a TPS problem lately.
The TPS sensor itself reads the correct voltage, but the ecu pin has reported out of range volts with a Volt-meter connected.
I am going to run a new wire and hopefully I stop getting the damn code 41 TPS.
The TPS sensor itself reads the correct voltage, but the ecu pin has reported out of range volts with a Volt-meter connected.
I am going to run a new wire and hopefully I stop getting the damn code 41 TPS.
01-27-13, 03:06 AM
#94
Hey Bud!
The car runs exceptionally well on these coils and such, but I cannot get the TPS sensor to switch the IDL circuit.
I also have no IACV, so that makes the idle a little bumpy.
That 99 Black on Black?
I would just do a headgasket and GTE cylinder head on that, since it's the VVTi and already has the crank and cam sensors where the GTE block is anyways.
This way you have a thorough OEM FFIM that utilizes the OEM IACV as well!
The car runs exceptionally well on these coils and such, but I cannot get the TPS sensor to switch the IDL circuit.
I also have no IACV, so that makes the idle a little bumpy.
That 99 Black on Black?
I would just do a headgasket and GTE cylinder head on that, since it's the VVTi and already has the crank and cam sensors where the GTE block is anyways.
This way you have a thorough OEM FFIM that utilizes the OEM IACV as well!
01-30-13, 11:14 AM
#99
Hey Bud!
The car runs exceptionally well on these coils and such, but I cannot get the TPS sensor to switch the IDL circuit.
I also have no IACV, so that makes the idle a little bumpy.
That 99 Black on Black?
I would just do a headgasket and GTE cylinder head on that, since it's the VVTi and already has the crank and cam sensors where the GTE block is anyways.
This way you have a thorough OEM FFIM that utilizes the OEM IACV as well!
The car runs exceptionally well on these coils and such, but I cannot get the TPS sensor to switch the IDL circuit.
I also have no IACV, so that makes the idle a little bumpy.
That 99 Black on Black?
I would just do a headgasket and GTE cylinder head on that, since it's the VVTi and already has the crank and cam sensors where the GTE block is anyways.
This way you have a thorough OEM FFIM that utilizes the OEM IACV as well!
vvti GE bottom end has weaker rods than non vvti, so A fair amount of power and you'll be doing a bottom end. Also, vvti gte doesn't run an IACV. And at the price of sourcing a gte head and the stuff to go with it, it'd be cheapest to just buy a complete aristo swap and recoup some of the losses through selling/parting the original setup.
As for your tps problem, are you sure it's pinned correctly? If you're using the gte tb and tps and haven't moved the pins, you'll have problems.
01-31-13, 01:02 AM
#100
No IACV shouldn't make a big deal after it gets to operating temp. You have colder climate than me, so it might take a little longer, but my IACV had problems so I got rid of it. Car idles rock solid once it's warm. Cold starts, it idles low for awhile, but still idles, even on e85 in cold weather. But again, once warm, works fine.
vvti GE bottom end has weaker rods than non vvti, so A fair amount of power and you'll be doing a bottom end. Also, vvti gte doesn't run an IACV. And at the price of sourcing a gte head and the stuff to go with it, it'd be cheapest to just buy a complete aristo swap and recoup some of the losses through selling/parting the original setup.
As for your tps problem, are you sure it's pinned correctly? If you're using the gte tb and tps and haven't moved the pins, you'll have problems.
vvti GE bottom end has weaker rods than non vvti, so A fair amount of power and you'll be doing a bottom end. Also, vvti gte doesn't run an IACV. And at the price of sourcing a gte head and the stuff to go with it, it'd be cheapest to just buy a complete aristo swap and recoup some of the losses through selling/parting the original setup.
As for your tps problem, are you sure it's pinned correctly? If you're using the gte tb and tps and haven't moved the pins, you'll have problems.
Although if the VVti block has oil passages that go up to a 1st gen head, there might be a leak past the head gasket.
I do have it wired correctly. GTE TPS is backwards in every way, regarding the pins and rotation.
When I get the IDL switch to open, the VTL is .38-.42. Out of range Code 41.
When I get into range, .60-.75 I'm off the IDL switch and the car idles at 4000rpm.
I guess I'm just going to set it to spec, and run an external micro switch that I will use for IDL with the throttle closed.
01-31-13, 06:47 AM
#101
1j vvti and non vvti headgaskets line up the same, so I assume with 2j it'd be fine. Vvti solenoid gets its feed from the place where the oil pressure sensor is on earlier blocks by way of banjo bolts. On later model blocks (iirc 97- up) the hole where the pressure sensor should be is larger, and the oil pressure sensor is relocated to the large union bolt that holds the oil filter housing on.
Why don't you just get a different tps. They're a dime a dozen.
Why don't you just get a different tps. They're a dime a dozen.
01-31-13, 09:21 AM
#102
how are you adjusting your idle? that may be part of your problem, there should be no case in which you can hit 4k rpm without an idle valve fully open, a good leak, or your throttle body plate is cracked too far.
I would have to guess that its the plate cracked too far cause I have had a similar problem before.
I found the best place to set the throttle plate when you don't have an IAC on these cars is about 1200rpm warm which gives you a decent cold start of about 8-900 rpms' till it warms up. if you adjust your warm idle down to 800 rpm's you will be have to have your foot on the gas while it warms up on a very cold start.
maybe it is your tps, because mine took a minute of fiddling and I have a crazy q45 adapter in the mix.
Another reason I like the q45 TB is that it has a built in cold Idle up thing on the side, which is a really nice feature to have, but since you have a GTE FFIM you shouldn't have any trouble running the idle valve and I would def try and fix the TT throttle body first.
I would have to guess that its the plate cracked too far cause I have had a similar problem before.
I found the best place to set the throttle plate when you don't have an IAC on these cars is about 1200rpm warm which gives you a decent cold start of about 8-900 rpms' till it warms up. if you adjust your warm idle down to 800 rpm's you will be have to have your foot on the gas while it warms up on a very cold start.
maybe it is your tps, because mine took a minute of fiddling and I have a crazy q45 adapter in the mix.
Another reason I like the q45 TB is that it has a built in cold Idle up thing on the side, which is a really nice feature to have, but since you have a GTE FFIM you shouldn't have any trouble running the idle valve and I would def try and fix the TT throttle body first.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-31-13 at 09:24 AM.
01-31-13, 02:32 PM
#104
You know what happens when you assume, you make an "***" out of "U" and "Me"!
The one I just ordered broke on contact on the parts counter when I verified it was ccw rotation and such.
By the time another one comes in, I'll have it fixed.
The one I have might be internally adjustable says my factory trained Toyota tech friend. We'll see!
Via the FSM procedure, feeler gauges and everything.
Plate is closed all the way.
I'm inspecting the Master Booster hose, and the IAC delete plate I have.
I have read this, but because of my leak or whatever it fires right up on it's own,
I think a little more adjustment will net good results then I can hit 200whp and get ready for next season.
Thanks. To be honest I was a NA-T hater until The GTE ECU swap came out.
I had always just swapped gte engines but this ge was already built so why not!?
The one I just ordered broke on contact on the parts counter when I verified it was ccw rotation and such.
By the time another one comes in, I'll have it fixed.
The one I have might be internally adjustable says my factory trained Toyota tech friend. We'll see!
how are you adjusting your idle? that may be part of your problem, there should be no case in which you can hit 4k rpm without an idle valve fully open, a good leak, or your throttle body plate is cracked too far.
I would have to guess that its the plate cracked too far cause I have had a similar problem before.
I would have to guess that its the plate cracked too far cause I have had a similar problem before.
Plate is closed all the way.
I'm inspecting the Master Booster hose, and the IAC delete plate I have.
I found the best place to set the throttle plate when you don't have an IAC on these cars is about 1200rpm warm which gives you a decent cold start of about 8-900 rpms' till it warms up. if you adjust your warm idle down to 800 rpm's you will be have to have your foot on the gas while it warms up on a very cold start.
maybe it is your tps, because mine took a minute of fiddling and I have a crazy q45 adapter in the mix.
Another reason I like the q45 TB is that it has a built in cold Idle up thing on the side, which is a really nice feature to have, but since you have a GTE FFIM you shouldn't have any trouble running the idle valve and I would def try and fix the TT throttle body first.
Another reason I like the q45 TB is that it has a built in cold Idle up thing on the side, which is a really nice feature to have, but since you have a GTE FFIM you shouldn't have any trouble running the idle valve and I would def try and fix the TT throttle body first.
Thanks. To be honest I was a NA-T hater until The GTE ECU swap came out.
I had always just swapped gte engines but this ge was already built so why not!?
02-21-13, 10:51 AM
#105
It finally effin idles. Thank god.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8dsPvJCbqA
It was a huge leak on the mating surface between runners 3 and 4. I used cork rubber gasket material.
Now to finalize everything!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8dsPvJCbqA
It was a huge leak on the mating surface between runners 3 and 4. I used cork rubber gasket material.
Now to finalize everything!