New DD and Project: the "Rexxus"
02-26-14 | 05:43 PM
#76
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Lexus Test Driver
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From: Victoria, BC. Canada
Yup!
That was my main reason why I want the e-Level.
Why do people say the install so much harder?
Maybe it's my background but it doesn't look any harder/easier then what you did with yours Tim!? A few extra things but nothing that needs an extensive mechanical background to do.
And I'll be sure to post how I mounted the sensors... Probably going to just going to use nutserts on the body, with simple brackets for the sensors and a welded tab on the LCA's.
I'm excited about the alternator... 167amps at idle!? That's over double the stock output, which is at 1800-2500rpm, not idle! This monster will crank out 324amps at 1800rpm!
That was my main reason why I want the e-Level.
Why do people say the install so much harder?
Maybe it's my background but it doesn't look any harder/easier then what you did with yours Tim!? A few extra things but nothing that needs an extensive mechanical background to do.
And I'll be sure to post how I mounted the sensors... Probably going to just going to use nutserts on the body, with simple brackets for the sensors and a welded tab on the LCA's.
I'm excited about the alternator... 167amps at idle!? That's over double the stock output, which is at 1800-2500rpm, not idle! This monster will crank out 324amps at 1800rpm!
02-26-14 | 06:18 PM
#77
wiring is the easy part, and routing the senor lines is extra work but not entirely complicated i agree.
the reason they are hard(est) to install is because of the swing angle on the sensors only goes so far. if you go beyond them, you break the sensors! this was very common during early installations where people didn't know this. but i think accuair addressed the problem and the newer sensors are less prone to breaking.
so you will need to find an opportune area where the sensors can mount and still get a good sweep of the suspension from full up to full down, all w/o maxing the arm swing angle. it's a nice little geometry project, something i want to do! this is why we are all curious as to how folks mount them.
the reason they are hard(est) to install is because of the swing angle on the sensors only goes so far. if you go beyond them, you break the sensors! this was very common during early installations where people didn't know this. but i think accuair addressed the problem and the newer sensors are less prone to breaking.
so you will need to find an opportune area where the sensors can mount and still get a good sweep of the suspension from full up to full down, all w/o maxing the arm swing angle. it's a nice little geometry project, something i want to do! this is why we are all curious as to how folks mount them.
02-26-14 | 07:58 PM
#79
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Lexus Test Driver
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From: Victoria, BC. Canada
Fair enough. Having the tools and know how would make a difference for that. But carful inspection and measurements would also work. Guess I'll be breaking out my riser-blocks and slider plates to use with my pit hoist for this one...
And I can probably do a alternator/ big3 how-to... Have to do that install this weekend anyways!
And I can probably do a alternator/ big3 how-to... Have to do that install this weekend anyways!
02-27-14 | 02:25 PM
#81
do u have the dreaded dimples on the front fenders after u rolled them? wheels look good btw
02-27-14 | 06:50 PM
#85
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Lexus Test Driver
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From: Victoria, BC. Canada
Lol, or $150 for a crapy rebuild... I don't think $500 for an alternator is that crazy!
Spending $350 for C-RCA's, which are about $25 worth of material and and hour of CNC time @ ~$60/hr, and $5 worth of hardware... Just because they are "JDM, yo!" That's crazy!
Spending $350 for C-RCA's, which are about $25 worth of material and and hour of CNC time @ ~$60/hr, and $5 worth of hardware... Just because they are "JDM, yo!" That's crazy!
03-01-14 | 01:53 AM
#86
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 74
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From: Hungary
Thanks.
I figure when I go air, I'll probably add width to the wheels, I should be able to add 1" F&R to the outer lips which would still give me 11s/12s with ~20et front and rear.
If my math is right--and it always is--@ -4º in the rear, the top inside edge of the wheel will move ~17mm towards the shock from straight up and ~10.5mm from the probable -1.5º of where i'm at now...
I might need a small spacer to get the lip away from the shock in that scenario. i'm more interested in wider with higher offsets and useable flush fitment than crazy dish and gangster camber.
we'll see where i'm at once the wheels are refinished and everything is installed and on the alignment rack...
I figure when I go air, I'll probably add width to the wheels, I should be able to add 1" F&R to the outer lips which would still give me 11s/12s with ~20et front and rear.
If my math is right--and it always is--@ -4º in the rear, the top inside edge of the wheel will move ~17mm towards the shock from straight up and ~10.5mm from the probable -1.5º of where i'm at now...
I might need a small spacer to get the lip away from the shock in that scenario. i'm more interested in wider with higher offsets and useable flush fitment than crazy dish and gangster camber.
we'll see where i'm at once the wheels are refinished and everything is installed and on the alignment rack...
Great wheel
I would like to ask that the front wheel negative camber you can use the original excenter bolt?
What is the maximum negative camber with the original bolt? -1 --> -4 ?
Thanks for reply
03-02-14 | 12:33 AM
#88
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From: Hungary
03-02-14 | 01:08 AM
#89
OEM maxes out at -4, from my understanding. If you want to get more "advanced" then you would need to get aftermarket camber arms.
03-02-14 | 01:01 PM
#90
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From: Hungary