lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

that does look really clean! WOW! What a great intro...I love the direction you're heading, looks like it going to be a fun build! Keep us posted, and lastly what a come up!!! 5 hundo for a LEX SC? Nice!

Kire

iTrader: (5)

Short Block



Cylinder Head




Any advice on removing the torque converter?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Put a 22mm socket on big racket to hold the crank and have someone hold it, then you grab a rachet with 14mm socket and break them loose.

Kire

iTrader: (5)

I'm running in to clearance issues but I'll try it out this weekend when I work on the car again

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You have to pick up the engine with the engine hoist to get to those bolts.

gl

TweakTech

iTrader: (2)

There's a small access hole on the oil pan with a rubber grommet in it. Pop out that grommet and you'll be able to rotate the engine to get to each bolt.

Kire

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to try and remove the torque converter this weekend along with the rest of the interior.

My friend that's helping me with the build strongly suggested having my block and head taken to a machine shop. What do you guys think?

I just got my MKIV TT resistor pack in thanks to Boosted86!

Kire

iTrader: (5)

I decided to go with a 2-tone black/tan interior very similar to Turbo 819's setup.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...t3582r-19.html

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Pull the pan off, if there are no metal shavings or bearing sitting in the pan, just have the head clean and deck, replace the oil pump, install the tt hg with arp studs and you back in business!


It will cost you alot of money honing, decking, parts etc.. if it's not broken don't fix it.

Just make sure you put a new oil pump on it.

gl

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Quick knows exactly what is going on here. Thats exactly what i would do if it were mine also.

Kire

iTrader: (5)

Fingers are crossed! I'll find out in these next couple of weeks. I don't know if this is true but I swear I read somewhere that the soarer alternator can't be used due to voltage and other differences.

Coming from a novice 12 volt guy, I assumed that was the standard on all vehicles now a days

kiochiu

iTrader: (1)

exactly what quick sc said... my honing by far and valve job Had to be the most expensive part of my blocks build. GL!! let me know how you do your heads, i spend my savings on building just the block only =( ran out of moolah for the top sigh*

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

why not go with a full standalone instead of a piggy back on the engine management?

granted if u saw my thread you would be going nuckin futs. but another guy on here 1992Lexus has a thread.

he put down 522 with a similar setup that you are putting together.

can't wait to see more.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Yes sir. Thanks for mentioning my name, formally known as 1992Lexus, now 1JZPWRD. Good luck with your thread and build ... I hope you reach your goals and more!! My thread in my signature.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I would get the 2jzgte aem v1 before i mess with the dm honda box. too much BS you have to go through and their patch harness is some crap.

this is what biggu did, and it's the best way of you ask me. gte patch harness from tweak that goes from 1jz to 2jzgte ecu and plug up an aem v1 on it and have you car running in 7mins.

i have plenty of maps for various setups!

Or just get the patch harness from tweak and just run a 2jzgte aristo ecu with the aem fic , because that 1jzgte ecu will **** you off specially in the summer time. hell even an safc with the aristo ecu will get you 500+whp

ditch the stock 1jz ecu is what i am saying.