8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

its the same one except the extension. the middle piece was custom made and what i did was cut the short shifter in half and added the custom piece in to extend it back to where I need it.

How hot does the ignitor get? I was thinking of mounting it on the inside of the firewall above the ECU.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I see its the custom piece you made that was the part I thought looked pretty nice and unique, and th en the 2 halves of the short throw. The ignitor can get pretty hot depending on which one you are using, I never tested or checked how hot it actually gets but I didn't want anything that can get hot inside the car near carpeting, so I decided not to relocate it and left mine in the bay. If you find a good spot on the metal it could still work though the firewall would be the heatsink just keep it out of the way maybe. just something to be aware of.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ur-ignitor-get

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

hhhmmm that is interesting.. I have both the ignitors one off the IS and Camry. Actually the same ignitor is in my Toyota truck so maybe ill see how hot it gets after the drive home from work. If its get to hot I might come up with some sort of heat shield.. But thanks for the heads up. Didn't even think about ignitors getting hot.
How about noise? do these make some sort of ticking noise or anything of that sort?

On my chasebays harness they also moved the ignitor to the ecu side which is why I'm going that route. But ill check and see how hot it gets on my truck.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

FYI about the vvti ignitor or the ds62. I have these same ignitors in my truck and I tested both of them from a full day of driving. They DO NOT get hot like the GTE ignitor just barley warm from sitting in the engine bay.

Got the harness all done. Removed the factory o2 sensor wiring sense the AEM only needs the wideband signal. All of the emission plugs. Moved the ignitor next to the ecu. Moved the noise filter in the cabin (hope it doesn't make noise). Added wiring for the AEM water temp gauge and added a plug at the ecu for the AEM gauges and other accessories such as the wideband, boost solenoid and water temp etc.

Made some R154 inspection plates out of some sheet metal and painted it black.

Still waiting for the TT HG and studs. While the head is off valve stem seals are going to be replaced also.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

also replacing the pinion rack.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I would remove those tapes of the harness , it will make it very hard to bend and it won't be flexible. I would put some wiring loom on it and it will make it easier to work with and Looks even better!!

Nice job man.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Thank you omar, do you mean at the ecu after the firewall to take off the tape or all of it? lol

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Got a few more things done even with being busy with family and what not. GTE HG and ARP studs finally came in. I also purchased the toyotool valve master which let me tell you works amazingly. Replaced all the valve seals with some vition seals that took about 30min to do all 24. I also had to get a small vise scrip pliers to pull out the old seals. Much better than using needle nose pliers. And I used a strong magnet to pull out the shim buckets.

Found the stupid bihex tool to get the OEM bolts out. out of 3 stores I found it!

Cleaned and prepped the block along with the piston tops for the hell of it.

Finishing up cleaning the head surface tonight.

Does the block surface look clean enough?!?

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

seals replaced and block cleaned

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

That tool must to have been a lifesavor. Progress is coming along so nicely man.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Thank you!

So lame. diditn take pics of this but got the following done lastnight

cleaned up all the carbon build up on the valve tops and cleaned the rest of the head.

Torqued down the head with the ARP studs to 85ftlbs with a 90* final turn. Than tonight or tomorrow I will go back to re-torque everything again. Than check valve clearance sense a few shims fell out while cleaning the head :/ aw well. Best to check anyway.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

If you use the arp studs you don't do the 90* turn .

you just do the 3 sequences and you are done 25lbs, 50lbs and then 85lbs then your done.

You do the 90* turn if you are using the stock head bolts.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Now that I didnt know. I thought all this time it was like Richard said.

Thanks Omar!!!!

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

feeewww.. at least it wasn't just me lol Ill call ARP and see if there is any down sides to doing the 90* pull at the end. I figured sense some people on SF torque down to 90 + ft lbs it wouldn't hurt to have the extra 90* pull at after hitting 85ftlbs

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Yeah with arp studs you follow their instructions not the tsrm hopefully they tell you it's OK!!