8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Omar! I giggle every time I open the hood and same goes with walking about from it at a parking lot, because I know it's my car

Ill give it a shot and thorough inspection this weekend and get it sorted out. Might not be the front main or rear main seals. Damn valve covers maybe not tight enough like you pointed out. But ill take a look this weekend. Hope its that easy!

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Did you ever open up the engine....not sure what you relaced on the engine....also how many miles does the ge have?

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

ALL stock factory nothing changed or replaced. Just TT HG and ARP head studs. When the head came off I did the normal things like replacing the valve stem seals and cleaned up the Head chamber, valve tops, piston tops and replaced all the seals when the motor was out.

Motor had about 105k miles driven by grandma and always taken care of Body deff needs some love which is the next thing to get done. Full body an paint sometime this coming winter.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Ok so you didnt replace rear main seal or front main seal.....one of those is probably the culprit of you oil leak

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

All seals have been replaced when motor was out as stated in last post...

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Also ordered a New turbo manifold to get the boost creep issue figured out. Its the new Cxracing 11gauge thick turbo manifold. It will need to some work done to the wastegate placement but this manifold looks to be the best one out there for the price. My buddy has one and id have to say its one of the nicer "ebay" manifolds I've seen. Thicker gauge stainless used and welds look much better than most of the other manifolds made. Only thing that is crappy about it is the wastgate placement so ill be cutting that portion off completely and adding two wastegate ports under the t4 flange like most of the high end manifolds out there.

Only reason why I decided to do this because I felt that it would be a waste of time and money to actually modify the normal cheap 180$$ ebay manifold. Don't get me wrong they have proven to work but I'm just looking for the long run and I rather have a stronger and better built manifold.

Here it is..

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ory_Code=SC300

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Why not use their new equal length version which looks like it already uses a 44mm vband wastegate?

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ory_Code=SC300

I'm currently running the normal ebay 2JZ turbo manifold at the moment that has been modified for the 44mm gate and ceramic coated. Works great for the cost but Im interested in this new manifold for longevity reasons.

wayne

iTrader: (27)

Nice #'s. I've got a similar setup. I'm using a Boostlogic kit with a 6765, id 1000 and I have the ttc 268 cams. I'm using an AEM V2 for tuning. I hope to get similar #'s eventually. I'm going to do the distributor less set up when I get the car running.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

For me theirs three things I don't like about that manifold. First, I don't like how the manifold sits further back. Sense I'm COP, I don't need the extra room to clear the old nasty looking distributor. Second, the busyness of the runners seem like it wouldn't flow as good as the other manifold. More twists and turns rather than a more smooth approach to the turbo. That's how it makes sense in my head at least lol. Third, the placement of the gate is just asking for boost creep which than will have to be modified as well. The best way to keep boost under control is to have two gates or a properly built high quality manifold. Going this route with Manifold Option 1 is sorta right in the middle of all that with modifying it as I stated. Smooth flow to the turbo, bigger I.D runners and stronger. After properly adding two waste gate ports to this manifold I don't see having an issues hitting 1000hp+ mark with this manifold and not worrying about it braking or cracking after a long period of use.


Looks great! Plan to run on e85 to hit the numbers I got. Its the only way e85 is just an animal compared to pump gas on a turbo car...

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Did you torque those valve cover bolts according to specs ? I didn't in the first weeks of running my Red Mamba ONE and I had oil that run down my bell housing and after doing some tracing it was coming from the valve covers. Since you have replaced your rear and main seals , it's more likely from the valve covers. Check your spark plug valley if there is oil in that area .

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

SO I do think its coming from the valve covers in the rear... I poked around and I am deff getting oil on the fingers behind the valve covers. I cleaned the head free of oil before it went back on so I'm sure its the valve covers. Ordered new bolt grommets just to be sure before I tighten it all down again.

Question to all the High hp high PSI guys or anyone that has some knowledge regarding wastegates. TurboSmart Twin 45mm vs Single 60mm.? The cost is about the same for either route but my main question is which route is the best way to go. Hold boost steady and under control. I know placement is also key along with design of the manifold but which route would be best to go with? I'm leaning more towards the single 60mm sense its 1 wastegate, less fabrication and it seems like more exhaust gasses will be able to pass through it more effectively being 2.3". With two gates, the gasses would have to pass through two ports going to two gates making it not as effective in terms of flow.. Just my commons sense speaking out loud.. lol

What are your thoughts?

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

If it's an open T4 I would just stick with one large wastegate , if divided separating the two wastegates may be helpful to control better. You're just trying to prevent creep correct? So as long as it flows enough to control boost it should be fine at high boost levels it's when you try to set it at low that you may run into creep problems like say at 10-15psi. My single 46 mm precision gate holds 4 psi solid if that tells you anything but I'm sure the larger the turbine wheel the larger the wastegate may be needed.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sometimes with the new valve cover gaskets it helps to go back over and tighten them down after the engine is run a few times. the rubber sort of sits down into place. I also wouldn't try and Hercules it on the first round to avoid doing the second pass later on, cause then you generally snap one of the mounting tabs off. if a second pass doesn't cure it take them off and check the rubber gasket for and small debris or anything that could cause a leak there.
Sometimes its also a sign of crank case pressure building up for some reason, but could also just be a leaky VC gasket.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Yea i'm trying to avoid boost creep and keep it steady for both high an low boost. I spoke the the tuner and he told me its easier to control boost with twin gates rather than one large gate. It takes alot more force to open the larger gate than two of the smaller gates. Or something rather like that lol. But he convinced me to go with twin 45mm gates but have the port coming off the manifold the same direction as flow will being going, so UP. Need avoid using a 90* at all costs per Ian.

Yea with the gasket being new I probably didn't tighten up the bolts very tight which is probably whats causing the leak like you mentioned along with omar and gerry. Once the new grommets come in next week ill go through the engine and make sure everything is on there snug and tight. I'll keep you guys posted when that happens!

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

So I got the car corner weight balanced and the car feels as it should. Much more responsive and much smoother with the these gixxer drew coil setup. I went with the 325/600 spring rates and man do they feel great. Considering most coil overs are pretty bouncy. Going from a dig, the car does what its suppose to so and has no problem hooking what so ever! Front comes up, rear dips down and hooks like no other! Very happy with the suspension Id have to say!

-Adjustable upper control arms
-TRD sway bars with adjustable end links
-all of the BV end links
-Gixxer drew suspension 325/600

Total weight with me in it 3828lbs specs of the suspension below.

Very happy!

Will all that said an done, I need to pull the fender to get the flush look back! but Rather have a very nice feel car than looks at the moment. lol