CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Let me see if I can find any.....should have pictures in build thread....somewhere around page 30 or so

I used washers to space it out......and got new longer bolts from hardware store.....i.e better than the garbage they give you in that kit

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Very happen with the. They do great in all situations you pointed out. Although these are meant for straight line driving such as the track, they do fine on the street. There is absolutely no road noise with these which is awesome and my car hooks much better now. No traction loss what so ever.

The one thing CAN NOT DO is drive in the rain. I was an hour away from and it started to rain, which forced me to drive 45-55mph on the highway all the way because the car would not stay straight.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Thanks, I saw the pics. I think I will make up a nice once piece spacer out of some flat iron stock or aluminum. I feel like the washer spacer deal will put to much strain on those 4 corners of the seat and not be as strong of a mount. With a one piece square spacer connecting all the corners together, the seat will be pretty solid and wont put as much pressure on those 4 corners possibly damaging the fiberglass over time.

Do you know the length of the spacers you did? From your pics, you have the front higher and the rear of the seat a bit lower. How does that feel in the car compared to being even on the spacers? The floor of our car already has a slight slope but wonder how it feels with the additional slope of the seat.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Very true with the washers....but I added more to the front higher so it would clear the slider....you will see what I am taking about when you start to install it.....

As far as the rear I wanted it to be lower than the front just for personal preference..

I can get you measurements of what was needed to clear slider in the front.

You will also notice since the seat is fiberglass that they are not exactly perfectly flat on bottom side....and the spacing for bolt holes differs a little bit depending on how the mold went.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

That would be awesome if you could get me those measurements. It will save me some time lol

1A1

Have you thought about the R888s? I have them on the Supra and love them. They are loud, but the performance trade off is worth it. We are making similar power, but Larry has 5 different maps for my car, all with boost by mph, and it is set up perfect for the R888s. No issues with traction, braking is great, and handling is outstanding too.

Steve

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Explain boost by mph, i have never heard of this and may be interested

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

when you have a standalone you can have it adjust the boost controller by your speed mph, it helps with low traction situations at certain speeds. like lets say under 30-40mph you only want to run off your gate at 10-12 psi cause an more you just spin the tires, and then above that you want 18+ psi. you can set exactly what boost you want at what speed and the boost controller will do it on the fly. most people do it by speed on standalones even when setting all the speeds to one boost level.

1A1

Exactly like Ali said. I have setting 1 on my car at wastegate, which is 560whp. Setting 2 starts at wastegate and ramps up depending on speed to a maximum of 20psi, which is 680whp. Setting 3 starts at wastegate at lower mph and then ramps up accordingly to a max of 23psi, or around 720whp, setting 4 same thing to a max of 820ish whp, and setting 5 it ramps up faster, but up to max boost, which is 900whp. For setting 5 it starts at around 18psi at 45mph and ramps up to full 35psi by 85ish mph. This a good 2nd gear roll race setting. I also use the 305/35/18 R888, which is a taller tire and nearly as wide as the 315/30/18. It's 26.5 inches tall so you can hold more mph for each gear as well. 4th gear tops out at 154mph at 8K rpm, which is where I usually shut it down. I have zero traction issues on concrete in warm weather on setting 5 with the R888s, boost by mph, and a good alignment. If you ask Larry at SP about it I am sure he can set your's up similar to mine.

Steve K.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Now you have to get me one of those coil mounting plate Richard . What does SR stand for ? I need one without those initials. It will fit the VVTI engine top right ?

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

It's a Saad Racing coil bracket. As far as I know, they are the only folks that make them.

I did see someone on SF start to make them but not sure how well they are made. Also not sure about VVTI heads. Might want to contact SAAD Racing about that.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

I had R888's prior to these and they are awesome tires for highway speeds. The one thing I didn't like about them was even after warming them up, they would not hook from a dig on the street. My car would just spin all the way through. This is where the proefi guys swear by traction control. Unfortunately, I'm on the aem v2 which doesn't offer that. I too should look into boost by mph to see if that helps.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

On a sad side note, after being at over 700hp for the last 2.5 something years driving it hard everyday, she decided to give out. Did a highway pull on the way home from work, limped it back to the driveway only to hear the motor ticking extremely loud. Not sure what happen but it sound like a valve might have lifted.

Sad but not really. Got tired of that 700 mark so its time to get the built motor in and shoot for that 1k mark

Crapy snapchat video, but you can get the idea of whats going on.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Sounds like a rod knock to me .

Yes she is done , sorry about that !

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Its rod knock in deed. I've been getting the new motor ready to get swapped. I pulled the lower pans off along with the oil pump so it can be ported on the inside and a few other holes be opened up for better drainage. Ill post up pics later. Also ordered new seals and bolts from Toyota. A little over kill but its piece of mind for me.