Bahndrvr

Yeap, only thing I have to work out right now - is the OD is not kicking in but that's due to the speedo not working, need to trace that out and get the O/D to kick in, I only drive on Wickam, Eau Gallie, US1 and Sarno right now so no need for O/D, but track time as soon as possible

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure where it's located on the A340 but find the speedo sensor on it and possibly replace. Since your needle isn't working I'd imagine that's the more likely culprit.

It's probably a very common issue. Try applying the same issues to a Supra TT Auto honestly since it's the same transmission. No overdrive isn't fun out of town.

Bahndrvr

Thats teh reason I replaced the Trac fuse because evidently I have 2 sensors one on each axle which controls the trac or something. Just need some time and I will track it down, leave Friday to drop my kids off but back Saturday and kid-less for about 3 weeks, so should get alot done

Bahndrvr

Pissed, brand new rims - brand new tires, meet curb...

Well, it was a piece of curb that broke off and was in the street, due to the stretch in the front, it kissed the tire, took the rim lip off in a small place and did way more damage than it should have, without a stretched tire it would have kissed of the tire, with the stretch, damage

Bahndrvr

First chance to go to the track tomorrow so took the steps to make sure it happens if it doesn't rain, and even then I may drive out and see if it's closed.

I looked through the wires and can't get the speedo to work, and therefore still not O/D. I pulled out the old Stang rims with MT ET Street Drag radials and put them on the car tonight, cycled through and the 275/40-17's work with No contact anywhere. Took them for a spin tonight and holy *****, this is whats it's like with traction ehh.

Looking forward to it - swung by Grip Tuning today and talked with the guys - they said that since they are familiar with the car - they did the 1JZ swap into it - it would be ~ 100 to find the issue with the wiring that's stopping the speedo from workign and the O/D to work. Once that is ironed out, should be alot more comfy.

Not sure if I updated this recently, but she has been getting daily driven for about 3 weeks now, running Great and smooth, boost cut occasionally but I will tweak on that at the track tomorrow night wit the Neo and the Blitz to get it to stop spiking so much and hopefully stop at 18psi on spikes and then gradually drop to 15-16 and hold through the pass. I'm stoked, hope like crazy it doesn't rain.

BTW, got to play today - SRT-8 Charger - never got a good run but we were both about 30ft from a light when he hit it, I jumped a little later than him then started pullling and by the time i shifted to 3rd - still doing 0 in a 45;-) I was a good half a car in front of him, yes, caught and pulled on him - he was lowered on exhaust at least so probably intake as well. Made me happy as hell, and also put some ideas of the power level in my head I had a magnum with the the regular Hemi 5.7 and it would get out.

Hope all goes well and nothing breaks tomorrow night, then I'll start the modding and start being a little more picky on it. Good chance this will be my only vehicle soon - so I will kit it and make it look good while restoring the interior and eventually a good/great paint job. She's fun.





And the other thing that drove me crazy - the passenger seat was broken - bottom bracket inside the seat, took it apart and welded that sucker back up. Side comment, I have the little Harbour frieght Flux welder and it's pretty much ugly - however I finally did what the forums had said and got some good wire - 35mm Lincoln wire and HOLY CRAP, night and day, I can bead with this crappy 110 welder. Also picked up some sticks for the Tombstone 220 welder I have for prep for the rear to be Welded - looking forward to tear down and welding it - still haven't decided if I'm plate welding it or not as I've heard the head makes them weaker and as long as I spider weld it on both sides it should be plenty strong, it will be daily driven though sooooooo, we will see once i get the spare diff opened up.

Bahndrvr

Track was pretty low on people, it was pretty damn hot. I got a best of 13.5 at 100, and a couple of 13.6's at 100, and a 13.7 at 100... Only difference in ET's were the launch, one wheel peel under boost, on the launch, should change that with a Lincoln before next trip out though;-)

I did learn something though - I hate the terms: Boost creep, piggyback, scramble, boost spike, Factory Auto, Timing cut, and that stupid warn sound for boost that cuts boost by 2lbs right in the heart of your run...

Needs alot of tuning and ironing out still but this was the baseline, thinking hooking the Meth back up, Licoln lock and gear change, and mess with the piggyback tune and boost controller before next trip out, I got slower as the night got cooler because I started screwing with the boost controller...Last pass of the night i had put the controller almost back to where it was, and put a 13.6 at 101 down at 1045 but my 60ft was 2.08...

Bahndrvr

It's Hot!

Car is running like a top - still nohting done to it except little - I'm daily driving it things. Had to replace some blown out bulbs in the back - have that stupid rear light warning back on.

The power window regulator i got before is about to be sold and I ordered a proper fitting passenger window regulator today. Going to take my speedo assembly out and put a different one i have now in and see if it will fix the speedo/overdrive issue - as well as replace the bulbs for the license plate. Got the cables all together for my 220v Welder setup and will install taht this weekend and MAYBE do the lincoln lock on the spare differential. I have decided I need to get some new plugs in this pig as well.

Previous owner ran Water/Meth in it and I have a feelign the plugs are shot - hell the car didn't really run for around 2 years - so will pick that stuff up - get the interior cleaned up a bit and hopefully get the passenger side window to roll down.

Made the executive desision I'm putting the dryer back in the A/C this weekend and hopefully get the system leak tested and A/C put back in this thing.

Daily driving without A/C and functioning windows in Fl is stupid - I'm done with it after over a month wiht only drivers door and moonroof.

Bahndrvr

Well, got some interior work/cleanup done - the aftermarket stereo deck was all jacked up - so removed it while troubleshooting the wiring and put a newer A/C control in - doesn't work - so will put the older one back in soon, also have to take the console all back out to put power to the Boost controller again - currently running stock boost. The wiring in this thing is a nightmare under the center console. Putting a call into Grip in a moment when they wake up and getting it scheduled to go in.

I'm not convinced I"m not going to need a new ECU - but they can run through the wiring and hopefully get the Speedo and O/D to kick back on. I'm really driving the crap out of this thing - got the other window motor in and will throw it in then use the liquid nail trick and start restoring the interior pieces - the inside is really bothering me - I will be able to get everything back to good soon - and maybe a working stock stereo would be nice - then I will look for new carpet - because mine is SHOT!

I also will be going back to tan seats soon - I just want some good condition Tan Supra Seats or Tan stock seats, will trade these homemade seat brackets and TRD Seats for them if they are in good shape. Might consider the Grey ones as well. Not a fan of these seats, i like the weight savings, but I'm about to do this extreme diet for a month and will loose another 20lbs anyway so F-bomb that.

It's getting there - daily driving it and putting probably 2k miles on it in city driving has really shown me whre i need improvements - I think i have a bad ground as well - the blinkers and everything make it jump really bad and I can actually hear voltage being taken away from the fuel pump each time it clicks...

Will a MkIII Supra Diff fit - found a 4.08 LSD for CHEAP!!!!!!!!!

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Hey, looks like you're gaining on it!

First off, no an MKIII Supra diff won't fit our cars. Someone tried recently and IF he succeeded it's a lot of frankenstein work. I have yet to see it proven. Bottom line is that you need a Lexus, GS or MKIV diff. The companion flange for the GS/MKIV is also different from the SC version but that's an easy swap with a dial-torque wrench.

Funny, I just had my A/C worked on too. Just a recharge for now. Hopefully that's it.

For a stereo I'd recommend just getting a stocker non-Nakamichi or if you feel like aftermarket, one of the newer Nakamichi CD400's/500's. My buddy has one of those in his Mercedes G and it's got a simple and stock-like look.

If your ECU really is giving you trouble it could be the capacitors but VVT-i electronics are so new I doubt it could be that. Definitely have Grip look at the wiring under the console. That's probably the original owner's (well, original swapper's) work before they serviced it.

Seats-- I highly recommend the Supra TT seats over the factory SC seats unless you have trouble getting in an out of low vehicles or want more cruising than bucket-style holding. I feel the lumbar support is better too despite less adjustment. If you want an impression before you decide I'll be happy to let you sit in mine and give it a run. My leather is shot but I will be addressing that after the transmission swap.

As for the bad ground, I can tell you I have only one instance where I can hear voltage changing in my car and that is with the emergency flashers. I have virgin wiring apart from my foglight and HID harnesses. Don't know if that helps but even a fairly stock engine harness exhibits that characteristic over time.

Bahndrvr

Thanks, i figured out the MKIII diff pretty quickly after that post, Lincoln locker it is;-)

Car is at Grip right now - dropped it off around 630 this morning and left it, will pick it up after work hopefully with working speedo and o/d

AFter that get the items i have setting around installed this weekend and get that dryer on the A/C - where did you get your A/C work done - would you recommend them - I just have to convert it and get a charge, possibly have them install the dryer, will be ordering up an LCD to soilder in to the HVAC control as well - mine is unreadable.

Nakamichi's are awesome - but command a price - I'm looking for 60-100 bucks and done - it has front speakers and this car is primarily - for the time being - a commute to work and race track car, so will never have an elaborate stereo in it, I have a pretty nice setup in the Truck and it will probably come out and go into the next daily once it is sold. I have the stock stereo back in it now, cassette and all, but it's not working - so will put it and retouch up the wiring and hopefully get it to work, if not, will look for a different one - the plugs on the back don't match up but i have that Nakamichi harness in there so sure that's why

The cool thing about the supra seats taht I want - even the N/A's is I want the Tan - no-one wants tan so I think i will be able to get them, ideally - someone will want to trade the TRD seats for some - and they are ready to go when someone hits me up

tjmhillz

iTrader: (6)

I have the Tan TT seats and love them compared to the stock seats.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Bahndrvr,

I have been taking my SC to Pep Boys on Harbor City Blvd / US-1. They have an excellent A/C guy there-- Eric. Yes, I'd recommend them and him. He used to work in the Lexus service department before that dealer franchise moved to its new Viera location. I spoke too soon about my own car's A/C-- seems I have a persistent small leak. They patched me up today to give it a second look a week from now. I may be replacing the same components you are. They will treat you well.

Hope Bob and Pete sorted you out today!

On the tan leather-- yes, I've noticed no one wants tan in a Supra or SC apparently It's our gain...

Definitely have to recommend the TT seats. 93-96 are slightly different than 97-98. If you go that route, I posted a writeup on how to rewire them to get your seatbelt indicator light working like factory.

Bahndrvr

Well last night got the speedo working - and when we wired up how it should work for O/D it hangs till 6k before shifting - at about 8 we gave up and I need to get a Dakota Digital or some type of signal alterator to get the O/D to work. headed back over in a bit to pay the man - and make sure which one i need and I'll order it. How much are you out for A/C work so far? I have about 300 I can throw at it right now if I can get it done for that or less - hopefully less especially since i need parts to make the O/D work.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Dakota Digital or try a Yellow Box? I have the latter but I don't know if simply altering the pulses from your transmission is what you need.

So far for A/C work I paid $200 for labor, dyes, a couple of other things... and a LOT of R134A freon-- the car was almost out when I started getting it looked at. The slight recharge I just got yesterday was on the house because they couldn't pinpoint the issue yet-- and I hadn't lost much. They'll give you a decent evaluation without financial pain. The guy there is thorough.

The rest has been my own choice to spend:

I've ordered a remanufactured Aisin 1JZ/2JZ A/C compressor from Driftmotion (cheapest reliable, really). I knew it might be going bad so I'm doing that anyway. I'm also possibly looking at a new condenser but will wait until the guy checks it all out again next week before deciding. My heater control valve has worn itself out between leaving L.A. and coming here so I also need one of those expensive things. I guess I'm glad I have the time to deal with it all now because I definitely won't in a couple of months.

All my final R154 clutch parts will be in next week too. This sure does cut into my rebuild and install for that, lol.

Bahndrvr

When I went and paid - they stated they know how to fix it without the Dakota Digital, so it's going back on Thursday all day again

Hope to have working O/D and keep the Speedo that is now working working. Then will come A/C getting fixed.

And then small issues here and there - pretty much set on the full DIY spray kit now as well. No big time expensive paint for me, but would like it to look alot better - that will be a bit a way though