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Old 11-11-13, 07:20 AM
  #196  
Tabaka
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Detailed my car for a meet this weekend. You can see my pool of power steering fluid on the driveway lol. I'm still waiting for someone to buy the rear Erebuni lip so I can get the last few parts.
Old 11-11-13, 07:36 AM
  #197  
tjmhillz
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Damn your car is clean and I have the same pool in my driveway from my ps leaking haha. Hopefully I get around to swapping pumps out this weekend for the Lexus meet on Sunday.
Old 12-08-13, 04:33 PM
  #198  
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Decided to go FFIM. I know this added to the overall cost, but I really don't like the Y pipe design for NA-T. It just bugs me to hide the turbo and soak in hot exhaust into the intake. I bought a new XSPower design that requires a Q45 TB. I've got a good deal that I'll probably jump on for the TB. I need to get the cable, power steering adapter, and tap vac lines. I know it's a lot of effort for something that's not "necessary", but I'm picky and this is my car
Old 12-12-13, 08:27 PM
  #199  
Tabaka
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Look what arrived today

Old 12-12-13, 08:30 PM
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Does that bolt straight to the lower runners?
Old 12-13-13, 08:06 AM
  #201  
Tabaka
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Originally Posted by ashtray
Does that bolt straight to the lower runners?
Correct, it bolts to the lower runners.

http://xs-power.com/toyota-turbo-manifolds-18.htm

Price is great too.
Old 12-13-13, 08:44 AM
  #202  
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WELD IT ON! And don't use that POS gasket it will crumble in moments. Actually even when installing it. Use the OEM metal one. But I would recommend welding it on to assure yourself that you will not have any leaks. If you want to the keep the lower runner, you can find a cheap used one for under 50 shipped. Plus getting to those last bolts are a pita unless you get someone with small arms to get in there for you.

Same one I got for build but welded it to the runners, that got it polished.
Old 12-13-13, 11:51 AM
  #203  
Tabaka
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Originally Posted by 8052JZ
WELD IT ON! And don't use that POS gasket it will crumble in moments. Actually even when installing it. Use the OEM metal one. But I would recommend welding it on to assure yourself that you will not have any leaks. If you want to the keep the lower runner, you can find a cheap used one for under 50 shipped. Plus getting to those last bolts are a pita unless you get someone with small arms to get in there for you.

Same one I got for build but welded it to the runners, that got it polished.
Great information, thank you. I noticed that the gasket was complete crap. I don't even think it's metal. I'm pretty sure it was a paper composite of some kind. I'll discuss the welding when I get the vac lines tapped.
Old 02-20-14, 08:08 PM
  #204  
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tabaka, do you have any more pictures of how you wrapped your roof? I'd like to do the same to my SC400, since my clearcoat is in terrible shape. How did you line it up and cut it towards the rear glass?
Old 02-21-14, 02:54 PM
  #205  
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Question.. would these work instead of the type that you have?
If you're going to weld the plenum anyways...

Last edited by 1JZPWRD; 02-21-14 at 03:48 PM. Reason: No Ebay links please.
Old 02-21-14, 03:48 PM
  #206  
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I want to see the results of the before and after.
Old 02-22-14, 06:45 AM
  #207  
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Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of updates to share. The car has been sitting in my driveway for three weeks since I broke something and the east coast was pounded with snow. I'm getting underneath the car today to see if I can identify this issue. I believe I broke the transmission mount and tore the shifter bushing. The car shakes like a meth addict in rehab between 1k-3k RPM's.

I'll keep everyone posted with my necessary repairs and when the "fun" build actually starts. I still have A LOT of issues with this car. The 300 has always had a terrible vibration at 70+ MPH no matter the wheel and tire combo, the steering is loose, front struts have collapsed, the rack is leaking, the PS pump is leaking, AC line has leaks, Oil pan has leaks, LS brakes grind, Airbag doesn't work, bleeding AC control, front subframe has completely rusted thru, needs every bushing.... that's all I can think of right now. It's a damn casket on wheels but I love it.
Old 02-22-14, 06:59 AM
  #208  
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Damn all that stuff is wrong with your car? And you wanna boost this thing? man that's not good.. We need to address those issues before start throwing some boost at it

Call me when you free
Old 02-22-14, 10:50 AM
  #209  
Tabaka
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I checked around the car today and the vibration is caused by the crank pulley / harmonic balancer. I can see it wobbling heavily. I just replaced it with a used one a few months ago but it's possible that maybe it just needs to be torqued down. I might replace it with a new unit for peace of mind.

List of parts that I require to be generally safe on the road right now:

Front Subframe/Cross member - $225.00 - 250.00
Front lower control arms - $250.00 each = $500.00
Rack and pinion - $242.00
Outer tie rods - $30.00
Power steering pump - $115.00
Crank Pulley - $326.00
Front brake rotors - $100-120
Wheel bearings - $40.00 each / $80.00

I have front upper control arms with new bushings and new Tokico shocks in my garage. I was going to sell the shocks and buy coilovers this year but as you can see from the list above, I've got more important things to worry about. I also have stainless brake lines and fluid for a proper flush. I bought a working 3 spoke airbag with proper wire harness recently for safety.

Things that I need which aren't posted above.
AC lines - $100-150 used. Driving around in July and August without AC is awful. I've been doing it for two straight years and I'm tired of having swamp *** at work.

This list looks exhausting and I haven't even got to the fun stuff yet. Pray for me.

Last edited by Tabaka; 02-22-14 at 04:25 PM.
Old 02-22-14, 05:25 PM
  #210  
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Well that blows. Goodluck.


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