Sc400 5.3l l33 gm v8
#17
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Mini update, I got some better weld filler and finished the pan tonight. Not the best looking welds. but okay for a novice behind a $600 ebay welder, it should hold oil--that was the main goal lol.
It looks similar to an F-body pan now, maybe a bit less capacity. Might still have to modify the rearmost cross member. Mad props to Turbodremz for hooking me up with the info on that.
Also got some treasures in the mail. A couple oil fitting that will make oil changes possible again and LS7 clutch slave as well! Finally have the parts that are required to bolt the engine and transmission together.
It looks similar to an F-body pan now, maybe a bit less capacity. Might still have to modify the rearmost cross member. Mad props to Turbodremz for hooking me up with the info on that.
Also got some treasures in the mail. A couple oil fitting that will make oil changes possible again and LS7 clutch slave as well! Finally have the parts that are required to bolt the engine and transmission together.
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indeed lookEVO, that's the little aluminum 3/8 pipe half coupling and plug in the photo above. Waiting to see the engine in the car before I decide where to put it. I'm hoping to get by with pipe threads instead of the OEM style straight threads with copper gasket. Guess I will have to clean the plug each time and use an oil resistant thread sealer.
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Well most folks aren't going to like this, but here is my new steering setup.
It's temporary though, my plan is to adapt a Pontaic G8 GT rack into the car. I think that would allow me to use a GM PS pump with greater success--plus it is a variable ratio unit.
It's temporary though, my plan is to adapt a Pontaic G8 GT rack into the car. I think that would allow me to use a GM PS pump with greater success--plus it is a variable ratio unit.
#23
I say whatever part works is what works for you. This is what hotrodding is all about. Personally, I like the cleanest solutions to swap problems whatever they are but it isn't always easy. I'm interested in the G8 rack when you get to it. Is it of a very similar size to our SC/MKIV racks?
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small update:
Spent an exceedingly long time cleaning and painting the engine bay with grey POR15. Hats off to my cool neighbors for not complaining to the township about my beater on stands out front for several weeks now.
Got the heads back from the machine shop. Milled .020" this should increase the compression ratio into the 10.6 neighborhood. I want 300 rwhp with this thing, but that would be a miracle.
Spent an exceedingly long time cleaning and painting the engine bay with grey POR15. Hats off to my cool neighbors for not complaining to the township about my beater on stands out front for several weeks now.
Got the heads back from the machine shop. Milled .020" this should increase the compression ratio into the 10.6 neighborhood. I want 300 rwhp with this thing, but that would be a miracle.
#27
I agree you will have NO problems with 300 - If I would have known i would have told you get a set of 243 heads and even with a Small cam you will make 350ish to the wheels. The 243 heads can be had for a few hundred and really flow well, I have a Big old Chevy truck - 8 inches of lift on 35's and with the little 4.8 it moves OUT with those 243's on it. Say it's a 40hp difference, i don't know about that but it says it on the internet;-)
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Right on Bahndrvr. These heads are actually 799s which are identical to 243. You must have the HO version of the 5.3 in your truck--the exact version I stole this engine from
Finally something to write an update about:
I put the heads back together and installed them. Next up is putting the oil pan back on. Since I massacred a truck pan, I also had to massacre the oil pick up tube. Luckily the pipe size is very close to NPS 1/2" which has an OD of .84". The weld fittings are pretty cheap--I went a head and got some 304 stainless elbows. In the end I left it about 1/2" form the bottom.
Finally something to write an update about:
I put the heads back together and installed them. Next up is putting the oil pan back on. Since I massacred a truck pan, I also had to massacre the oil pick up tube. Luckily the pipe size is very close to NPS 1/2" which has an OD of .84". The weld fittings are pretty cheap--I went a head and got some 304 stainless elbows. In the end I left it about 1/2" form the bottom.
Last edited by SC399; 08-12-13 at 12:02 PM.
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engine put back together with the LS7 flyhweel and bolted for the first time to a T56. Another LS type engine saved from the automatic transmission curse
Put the new unit in and stared at it for a while. Looks like I have to message the top of the trans tunnel and do a bit of clearencing on the rear crossmember, but I want to put this in a few inches farther forward and a little higher than that DGR kit put the engine. I think the alignment is going to be critical with the flanged driveshaft connection. Going to to think about this for a while.
Not really concerned about center of gravity and weight distribution. The engine is lighter than the 1UZ so I want to put it out where everything is accessible. If it were an F1 car I would be concerned, but this is just to be a fun reliable car. Besides my whole car budget is probably less than a racer's tire budget.
Put the new unit in and stared at it for a while. Looks like I have to message the top of the trans tunnel and do a bit of clearencing on the rear crossmember, but I want to put this in a few inches farther forward and a little higher than that DGR kit put the engine. I think the alignment is going to be critical with the flanged driveshaft connection. Going to to think about this for a while.
Not really concerned about center of gravity and weight distribution. The engine is lighter than the 1UZ so I want to put it out where everything is accessible. If it were an F1 car I would be concerned, but this is just to be a fun reliable car. Besides my whole car budget is probably less than a racer's tire budget.