CatManD3W SC300 Ongoing Build...
03-09-16, 07:40 PM
#736
Maybe try to find another SC400 lip in decent shape...
I really wish someone would make the runner widebody kit......or would like to get ahold of wald exchange kit
Last edited by CatManD3W; 03-09-16 at 07:51 PM.
03-16-16, 07:05 PM
#737
So I have been battling an issue at high rpm on my engine......
I have gone through and replaced almost every sensor on the engine...and still it was not fixing it..
Decided it was time to look into making sure that timing was still good....which it was but I decided to mark both cam gears/ timing belt with white sharpie to see...
And i discovered that the timing belt was slipping...yikes.....thank god that the 2jzgte is a non-interference motor in stock form...
Decided it made sense to order new Gates timing belt, new HydraulicTensioner, new Idler Pulley as not I didnt want to take a chance.
Here is the picture to show what I found...Keep in mind before I ran car all marks were lined up...
The timing belt has slipped 3 teeth over from where it first was....
I have gone through and replaced almost every sensor on the engine...and still it was not fixing it..
Decided it was time to look into making sure that timing was still good....which it was but I decided to mark both cam gears/ timing belt with white sharpie to see...
And i discovered that the timing belt was slipping...yikes.....thank god that the 2jzgte is a non-interference motor in stock form...
Decided it made sense to order new Gates timing belt, new HydraulicTensioner, new Idler Pulley as not I didnt want to take a chance.
Here is the picture to show what I found...Keep in mind before I ran car all marks were lined up...
The timing belt has slipped 3 teeth over from where it first was....
Last edited by CatManD3W; 03-16-16 at 07:09 PM.
03-21-16, 09:01 AM
#740
I was running out of ideas trying to diagnose it.....because it would just fall on its face at random high rpm all the time....it was never at same rpm.
When I rebuilt engine the tensioner and pulley were the only pieces that I didnt replace with new...
03-21-16, 09:20 AM
#741
You may want to upgrade that tensioner bracket to one of the billet steel ones. They are guaranteed not to break.
Steve K.
Steve K.
03-21-16, 10:57 AM
#742
The hydraulic tensioner is the piece that failed on mine....it was old and was no longer keeping enough tension
03-25-16, 07:39 AM
#747
Ryan, I like new parts! Looking good, and I'm with you man...I wish someone would make the Wald kit for our SCs. I tried hard a while back to buy Levie's full kit. I had even seen a guy up in Ohio selling his whole car with the kit. Didn't have the funds at the time. Smh...lol
steve
steve
03-28-16, 05:45 AM
#748
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Love seeing the updates on this build. You used GS300 axles?? First I hear of that. I'd like to swap mine with lower mileage set too. Did you ever have them side by side? I recall members stating SC400 had the thicker axles. Glad to see updates. How's the fuel situation coming along? New injectors? Ever plan on swapping to a standalone? ProEFI just massively dropped prices. Here in Chicago we're having a lot of fun with the EMU. Few guys running them and I will be as well on my built 1j/
03-28-16, 08:31 AM
#749
Steve K.
03-28-16, 02:23 PM
#750
From what I am seeing it looks like your belt is not slipping at all..
My understanding is that marking the belt where the cam timing marks are is only good while lining it up (the belts come with 2 white lines for installation only, after the first revolution they mean nothing, cause the first time you turn the motor over the marks will start to move because the belt has the correct number of teeth to keep lining up the cams and crank, not to do it on the same portion of the belt if that makes any sense). the white dots you made are just like the 2 oem white lines, they are only good for lining it up. If you turned it over like 30 times or some high number like that, you would find the marks you made back where it was originally placed.
So even with the white marks on the belt off a few teeth or a bunch of teeth (which they will/can be after the first revolution) the cams should still line up with the mark on the cam cover, and the crank should be at 0 (proper TDC check).
If that is happening, all is normal and well and in your picture the cams look aligned with the cam cover still if you just ignore the white marks you made. The belt does not always come to the same place it was marked in relation to the cam, it is not the right way to mark it. You MUST use the crank and cam cover markings to check for any slippage, as in if the belt slipped, the cams would not point at the cam cover perfectly anymore with the crank at zero (and you would likely not find them off by the same amount because all the slack is on one side of the engine so usually one pulley gets way off), then in that case you can conclude the belt is likely slipping (or a sheared cam bolt happens every once in a while but you get a terrible running engine).
that is why on the 1uz and 2uz especially it says "marks only line up for install" or something like that, probably says it on the JZ manual as well.
I doubt the belt is slipping that easily and they wouldn't be slipping in unison like that it would likely be random amounts of teeth and some belt wear/shredding at the edges.
What I am seeing is a perfectly timed 2jzgte if the crank is at 0 in that picture. I would look elsewhere for the problem, like maybe the star crank gear is coming loose and needs to be welded.
My understanding is that marking the belt where the cam timing marks are is only good while lining it up (the belts come with 2 white lines for installation only, after the first revolution they mean nothing, cause the first time you turn the motor over the marks will start to move because the belt has the correct number of teeth to keep lining up the cams and crank, not to do it on the same portion of the belt if that makes any sense). the white dots you made are just like the 2 oem white lines, they are only good for lining it up. If you turned it over like 30 times or some high number like that, you would find the marks you made back where it was originally placed.
So even with the white marks on the belt off a few teeth or a bunch of teeth (which they will/can be after the first revolution) the cams should still line up with the mark on the cam cover, and the crank should be at 0 (proper TDC check).
If that is happening, all is normal and well and in your picture the cams look aligned with the cam cover still if you just ignore the white marks you made. The belt does not always come to the same place it was marked in relation to the cam, it is not the right way to mark it. You MUST use the crank and cam cover markings to check for any slippage, as in if the belt slipped, the cams would not point at the cam cover perfectly anymore with the crank at zero (and you would likely not find them off by the same amount because all the slack is on one side of the engine so usually one pulley gets way off), then in that case you can conclude the belt is likely slipping (or a sheared cam bolt happens every once in a while but you get a terrible running engine).
that is why on the 1uz and 2uz especially it says "marks only line up for install" or something like that, probably says it on the JZ manual as well.
I doubt the belt is slipping that easily and they wouldn't be slipping in unison like that it would likely be random amounts of teeth and some belt wear/shredding at the edges.
What I am seeing is a perfectly timed 2jzgte if the crank is at 0 in that picture. I would look elsewhere for the problem, like maybe the star crank gear is coming loose and needs to be welded.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-28-16 at 02:36 PM.