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Old 10-08-16 | 02:43 PM
  #91  
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Last edited by mikef; 10-08-16 at 02:48 PM.
Old 10-08-16 | 04:37 PM
  #92  
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What brand and part number are those ball joint covers?
Old 10-08-16 | 09:29 PM
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Mike, your car looks amazing

Originally Posted by nnnickkk
What brand and part number are those ball joint covers?
Most likely the Energy Suspension type 13009 (individual part number). Just look for a kit that includes that part number.
Old 10-08-16 | 09:43 PM
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energy poly, I forgot the part number but I can probably find it later. so far the most pain in the butt is removing the old bushings. well worth it btw
Old 10-08-16 | 11:16 PM
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I'm planning to do my upper and lower lca on Monday. Already have the prothane bushing kit but nothing for the ball joints. If you could find the exact part number that be awesome. What grease did you use inside?

Originally Posted by Blkexcoupe
Mike, your car looks amazing

Most likely the Energy Suspension type 13009 (individual part number). Just look for a kit that includes that part number.

Do I need qty 4 of the 13009?
Old 10-09-16 | 08:33 AM
  #96  
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FRONT BALL JOINT DUST BOOTS


Part Number: 9.13130 The 9.13130 part number is the only part number that sells just the 13009 boot comes with 2
Manufacturer: Energy Suspension







Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, I use this on everything on the car.

Last edited by mikef; 10-09-16 at 08:42 AM.
Old 10-09-16 | 10:29 AM
  #97  
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awesome thanks! those work for both the upper and lower control arm ball joints?
Old 10-09-16 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by nnnickkk
awesome thanks! those work for both the upper and lower control arm ball joints?
yes sir, once you bolt them up the boots will get tight and wont move, there is nothing to hold them down if its not bolted up, like the oem with a wire tie, these dont have them but its not needed, just make sure you clean the old grease out and pack in new grease. I used my finger not a grease gun, mobile grease will probably last a life time over the oem stuff
Old 10-09-16 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mikef
yes sir, once you bolt them up the boots will get tight and wont move, there is nothing to hold them down if its not bolted up, like the oem with a wire tie, these dont have them but its not needed, just make sure you clean the old grease out and pack in new grease. I used my finger not a grease gun, mobile grease will probably last a life time over the oem stuff
perfect, i was able to snag some on amazon for same day delivery so i will have them when i tackle this tomorrow. thanks for the quick replies!
Old 10-09-16 | 02:09 PM
  #100  
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The car looks beautiful, Mike!!
Old 10-09-16 | 10:54 PM
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Nice updates.....how is it after the install?
Old 10-10-16 | 07:12 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by CatManD3W
Nice updates.....how is it after the install?
haven't had a chance to drive it from a stripped upper control arm bolt, not sure how it happend but I ordered a new one and trying another torque wrench this time

Last edited by mikef; 10-10-16 at 07:15 AM.
Old 10-16-16 | 08:52 PM
  #103  
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Everything feels nice and tight, feels like the car wants to turn when you want it, it feels like it goes in to the turn rather then away, now time to drop the rear end, I will be getting the rear sub frame painted and diff cover, so far i'm thinking solid with poly.. or just poly, not sure yet.. so far the project is some what cheap to do if you can just do the work your self. its a big improvement over the soft Lexus rubbers


put the front tow strap on, you can probably lift the car from it


Last edited by mikef; 10-16-16 at 09:05 PM.
Old 10-16-16 | 09:30 PM
  #104  
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Is that a Mishimoto X-Line radiator or the regular one?
Legit build!
Old 10-17-16 | 06:19 PM
  #105  
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I would have to dig in my recipes but I believe it's a 3 row



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