2JZGTE rebuild
12-10-13, 07:18 AM
#316
good that it is running now 
and am glad you ain't toast after playing around near that fuel tank full of gas.
Don't even think about running a line from that can to the intake pipe with that can in that position. As Ali_sc3 said, collected liquid will just spill over into that line then into your turbo , intercooler , intake mani and back into your cylinders
. And even if you put the can upright , if it is NOT baffaled then don't run a line too. There would be a certain vacuum on that line when the turbo is spinning and will suck that liquid .
and am glad you ain't toast after playing around near that fuel tank full of gas.Don't even think about running a line from that can to the intake pipe with that can in that position. As Ali_sc3 said, collected liquid will just spill over into that line then into your turbo , intercooler , intake mani and back into your cylinders
. And even if you put the can upright , if it is NOT baffaled then don't run a line too. There would be a certain vacuum on that line when the turbo is spinning and will suck that liquid .
12-10-13, 07:39 AM
#317
IF you are planning to keep that catch can , then use a bigger fitting / breather. I actually need another one for the RM2 . If I remember right I bought mine from AZ . It was $220 shipped but was baffled and had a return line to the intake pipe for evacuation. The vacuum from the intake helps take out the pressure from the crank case too. Otherwise the catch can becomes a mere liquid collector and breather. Let me check from where we bought it.. Am sure 97-SC300 knows cause he told me where.
12-10-13, 09:04 AM
#318
IF you are planning to keep that catch can , then use a bigger fitting / breather. I actually need another one for the RM2 . If I remember right I bought mine from AZ . It was $220 shipped but was baffled and had a return line to the intake pipe for evacuation. The vacuum from the intake helps take out the pressure from the crank case too. Otherwise the catch can becomes a mere liquid collector and breather. Let me check from where we bought it.. Am sure 97-SC300 knows cause he told me where.
12-10-13, 09:07 AM
#319
First start.... look at the PS reservoir, 10 thousand things going into my mind and forgot to cap it back on. BOV line is just temporary for now.
Thanks Doug for helping out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk7-J...ature=youtu.be
Thanks Doug for helping out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk7-J...ature=youtu.be
12-10-13, 10:01 AM
#321
Well the bigger it is the better so you can vent out that pressure from the crank case.
did you rotate the steering wheel side to side (end to end) just for fluid to settle back in and all air pockets be pushed out after you have removed and refilled the reservoir ?
First start.... look at the PS reservoir, 10 thousand things going into my mind and forgot to cap it back on. BOV line is just temporary for now.
Thanks Doug for helping out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk7-J...ature=youtu.be
Thanks Doug for helping out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk7-J...ature=youtu.be
12-10-13, 11:55 AM
#322
yes as Gerbb said the bigger the better and you need to fit the can upright somewhere.
you have a couple options on the breather.
1) leave it and add another barb and breather and run 2 of those.
2) remove it, drill out and re-tap the hole for a larger fitting and run 1 huge filter on it.
3) remove filter and run a line to intake; and then add a 2nd one and run that to intake (2 lines out same size as lines coming in).
4) remove filter, drill out and re-tap for a -12/14 and run 1 large line to intake pipe.
if your 2 lines coming in are -10 and you only have 1 opening, it needs to at least be a -12, but a -14 is ideal.
-10 is 10/16 is about .625" ID and has a cross sectional area of 1.22in^2
so you have 2 of those hoses and each one can evacuate that amount so you have a 2.44 cross sectional area of potential evacuation.
-12 is 12/16 or about .75" ID and has a cross sectional area of 1.76in^2
so while 1.76 is less than 2.44, its sill better than going from 2.44 back down to 1.22 (like you are now).
with a -12 you are getting some benefit from having a 2nd line. otherwise you basically have the stock setup which is more or less a -10 off the passenger side and evacuates 1.22. right now you could remove all your lines and can, stick the filter on the valvecover and get the same thing except the oil will collect in the valvecover instead of your can.
Ideally you would want a -14 with about a .875" inner diameter which has a 2.4 cross section area and is perfect for 2x 10AN lines (2.44), but its a hard size to find fittings and lines for. you could find a comparable inner diameter pipe thread for a barb fitting in 3/4 or 1" NPT (not sure which has a 7/8 inner diameter) and then pop on a larger breather = problem solved with 1 large drill bit and a tap and larger breather.
So I recommend running 2 of the smaller filters, or drill it out and tap it for the 1 larger filter. welding on a bung also works.
you have a couple options on the breather.
1) leave it and add another barb and breather and run 2 of those.
2) remove it, drill out and re-tap the hole for a larger fitting and run 1 huge filter on it.
3) remove filter and run a line to intake; and then add a 2nd one and run that to intake (2 lines out same size as lines coming in).
4) remove filter, drill out and re-tap for a -12/14 and run 1 large line to intake pipe.
if your 2 lines coming in are -10 and you only have 1 opening, it needs to at least be a -12, but a -14 is ideal.
-10 is 10/16 is about .625" ID and has a cross sectional area of 1.22in^2
so you have 2 of those hoses and each one can evacuate that amount so you have a 2.44 cross sectional area of potential evacuation.
-12 is 12/16 or about .75" ID and has a cross sectional area of 1.76in^2
so while 1.76 is less than 2.44, its sill better than going from 2.44 back down to 1.22 (like you are now).
with a -12 you are getting some benefit from having a 2nd line. otherwise you basically have the stock setup which is more or less a -10 off the passenger side and evacuates 1.22. right now you could remove all your lines and can, stick the filter on the valvecover and get the same thing except the oil will collect in the valvecover instead of your can.
Ideally you would want a -14 with about a .875" inner diameter which has a 2.4 cross section area and is perfect for 2x 10AN lines (2.44), but its a hard size to find fittings and lines for. you could find a comparable inner diameter pipe thread for a barb fitting in 3/4 or 1" NPT (not sure which has a 7/8 inner diameter) and then pop on a larger breather = problem solved with 1 large drill bit and a tap and larger breather.
So I recommend running 2 of the smaller filters, or drill it out and tap it for the 1 larger filter. welding on a bung also works.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-10-13 at 12:01 PM.
12-11-13, 02:55 AM
#327
Dennis - based on your picture / sketches , are you saying that you will have a breather on the catch can and a line to the intake ? Are you drilling / tapping another fitting on that catch can for the line to the intake ? If that is the case , the line to the intake will be of no use. The vacuum created from the turbo intake pipe would not help evacuate crank case pressure cause of the opening on the catch can breather.
I suggest , reread what Ali wrote buddy... follow his recommendations. One, you can't leave the catch can in that position. It has to be upright. You will have oil / coolant mix pouring into your engine bay through your breather or into your intake pipe if you have a line from catch can to intake.
I suggest , reread what Ali wrote buddy... follow his recommendations. One, you can't leave the catch can in that position. It has to be upright. You will have oil / coolant mix pouring into your engine bay through your breather or into your intake pipe if you have a line from catch can to intake.
12-11-13, 07:28 AM
#328
Looks good man....What I dont understand is why spend all that money and cheap out on a catch can setup that is worse off than stock...I would hate to see something happen to your build because of a silly catch can....But if you are destined to make the one work that you have more power to you. Why not ditch the charcoal canistor and put the catch can in its spot so it can be upright?
12-11-13, 07:42 AM
#329
Dennis - based on your picture / sketches , are you saying that you will have a breather on the catch can and a line to the intake ? Are you drilling / tapping another fitting on that catch can for the line to the intake ? If that is the case , the line to the intake will be of no use. The vacuum created from the turbo intake pipe would not help evacuate crank case pressure cause of the opening on the catch can breather.
I suggest , reread what Ali wrote buddy... follow his recommendations. One, you can't leave the catch can in that position. It has to be upright. You will have oil / coolant mix pouring into your engine bay through your breather or into your intake pipe if you have a line from catch can to intake.
I suggest , reread what Ali wrote buddy... follow his recommendations. One, you can't leave the catch can in that position. It has to be upright. You will have oil / coolant mix pouring into your engine bay through your breather or into your intake pipe if you have a line from catch can to intake.
Looks good man....What I dont understand is why spend all that money and cheap out on a catch can setup that is worse off than stock...I would hate to see something happen to your build because of a silly catch can....But if you are destined to make the one work that you have more power to you. Why not ditch the charcoal canistor and put the catch can in its spot so it can be upright?
12-11-13, 03:16 PM
#330
Well well well.... Looks like i bought a piece of crap heatwrap, so mad right now 
In this video i thought the turbo is smoking, I let it run for 5 mins and i guess the heat wrap is getting toast like bacon
And here's the comparison, the heat wrap from the downpipe didn't change color, and both heat wrap was bought from CXracing. I guess I have to take the one on my exhaust manifold before i burn the whole car. I am cussing as i type this
I think it's made of 100% cotton
In this video i thought the turbo is smoking, I let it run for 5 mins and i guess the heat wrap is getting toast like bacon
And here's the comparison, the heat wrap from the downpipe didn't change color, and both heat wrap was bought from CXracing. I guess I have to take the one on my exhaust manifold before i burn the whole car. I am cussing as i type this
I think it's made of 100% cotton
