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2JZGTE rebuild

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Old 08-23-13, 02:06 PM
  #61  
JesLet
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Sandblasted my intake manifold...

Before



After



USDM 550

Old 08-23-13, 02:10 PM
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MacGyverQu
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That sandblasting job looks great! Looks like I'll be having some fun w/ the sandblaster myself soon. Great build, keep up the good work!
Old 08-23-13, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MacGyverQu
That sandblasting job looks great! Looks like I'll be having some fun w/ the sandblaster myself soon. Great build, keep up the good work!
I paid someone to do the job, i would do it myself if I have the tools.
Old 08-23-13, 02:18 PM
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MacGyverQu
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Originally Posted by JesLet
I paid someone to do the job, i would do it myself if I have the tools.
All the better! Less work on non-essential tasks. Thanks for being so detailed in your build! I'm going through the exact same part of my build w/ the head work and water / oil pump installation this week.
Old 08-23-13, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MacGyverQu
All the better! Less work on non-essential tasks. Thanks for being so detailed in your build! I'm going through the exact same part of my build w/ the head work and water / oil pump installation this week.
Get new oil pump..
Old 08-23-13, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JesLet
Get new oil pump..
My boy @ work has been stressing this for the past two weeks. Now when you say new, you mean brand spanking new, or used lower mileage? My old one had 240k on it so it definitely has to go.

Last edited by MacGyverQu; 08-23-13 at 02:24 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 08-23-13, 02:26 PM
  #67  
stockhatch
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Your project is looking great, but I have a couple questions.

First, did you check for wrist pin movement before reusing your pistons? When I rebuilt my 2JZ, most of the pistons were worn beyond the service limit. The way to tell is to try to move the wrist pin within the piston at room temp. If it moves within the piston, the piston needs to be replaced. The wrist pins should be an interference fit at room temp and require piston heating to install.

Regarding your valve clearances, they are likely tight due to the valve job. Even though the stems were machined, they are probably still slightly high due to cutting the seats and grinding the valves.
Old 08-23-13, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MacGyverQu
My boy @ work has been stressing this for the past two weeks. Now when you say new, you mean brand spanking new, or used lower mileage? My old one had 240k on it so it definitely has to go.
You have to get an OE brand new. Lots of guys here have nightmares not changing them.

Talking about pulling the engine out of the car again and taking everything apart.

I would not trust a used one unless you brought it new and ran it yourself. Most of these engines have been sitting for a while.

$160 at Elmhurst and you are good to go.

Last edited by JesLet; 08-23-13 at 02:33 PM.
Old 08-23-13, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
Your project is looking great, but I have a couple questions.

First, did you check for wrist pin movement before reusing your pistons? When I rebuilt my 2JZ, most of the pistons were worn beyond the service limit. The way to tell is to try to move the wrist pin within the piston at room temp. If it moves within the piston, the piston needs to be replaced. The wrist pins should be an interference fit at room temp and require piston heating to install.

Regarding your valve clearances, they are likely tight due to the valve job. Even though the stems were machined, they are probably still slightly high due to cutting the seats and grinding the valves.
I did not take the pistons and rods apart so I do not know. I may have to look at that again.

And as for the valve clearance, I have to go thinner shims. Yes I believe it was the valve job. I bought 20 shims and they are $7 per piece. Holy %&^!!
Old 08-23-13, 02:37 PM
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stockhatch, did yours go bad?
Old 08-23-13, 03:08 PM
  #71  
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Man, did the intake manifold come out great or what???
Looks great!!!!
Old 08-23-13, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1JZPWRD
Man, did the intake manifold come out great or what???
Looks great!!!!
Thanks man, I wanted it chromed though, too much work I think.
Old 08-23-13, 03:15 PM
  #73  
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I like the look of chrome under any hood, when done properly and in moderation. I think chrome just says clean and clean means time well spent under the hood and done right. Jmo.
Old 08-23-13, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JesLet
Thanks man, I wanted it chromed though, too much work I think.
Polishing the intae manifold, TB, valve covers and turbo compressor housing cost me $450.00 locally.
Old 08-23-13, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by AZTurbo
Polishing the intae manifold, TB, valve covers and turbo compressor housing cost me $450.00 locally.
Where? Basko did the sandblasting...

Did you do all the intake manifold or just the upper plenum?


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