Typically when you refer to "fat setup", it refers to the sidewall since your are going up one series from the "normal". When you refer to the width of the tire and it is different front and back, it is refered to as "staggered". Sorry if I'm repeating anything you already know.

So, when people put choose wheels and tires, the limit is usually the front since there is less room. If you want to keep the same size all around (for example so you can rotate the wheels), then you are limited by the size of the fronts. In this scenario, we are usually looking at 8" or 8.5" (and sometime 9") widths.

In the case of 18s (like with Hameed's wheels here), the typical tire size is 235/40/18 or 245/40/18. As you can see, the "norm" is the 40 series tire. This tire represents the aspect ratio of the tire width (in this case 235mm or 245mm) to the sidewall size (in this case 40% of 235mm or 245mm). As you can see, to be "fat" means you have more sidewall which means running 45 series tires. In thise case 45% of the width will be "fatter" than 40% of the width. Some here on CL has run 45 series for more rubber=cushion=ride quality=wheel protection but most stay with 40 since 45 shows a lot of rubber.

The only size that "fat" makes more sense is with 19s. Usually, people run 35 series tires. This means less rubber = harsher ride=less wheel protection. People with 20s also run 35 series tires. People with 19s have the option of running a "fat" setup where they are running 40 series tires which gives all the benefits of 18s while getting wheel outside diameter (OD) of someone running 20s. The whole wheel fits the well better and with the larger OD, you don't need to lower as much => 19s get some benefits of 20s.

If you have the same rim front and back, there is a limit on how wide of a tire you can put on it. Obviously, a rim with 8" width cannot max out as much as an 8.5" width rim. With 8" I would not go more than 245. I think I've seen 255 with 8.5. Unless you can figure out an optimal tire size that can work well front and rear, I'd just put the same size all around and put a spacer in the rear if you really want to push the wheel out some. For example, the stock OD seems to be 25.7. (I only say this because it seems like the new sock wheel sizes have changed to this. My original 215/60/16 was really 26.2.) 245/40 in the front gives you a 25.7 OD. 255/40 in the rear gives 26" OD while 255/35 gives 25" OD. 25.7 and 26 is close so it is up to you if you want to do that. I would not.

Other than the definition part, this discussion assumes you have the same size rim front and back. I can go into the staggered issues but I think this is a long enough hijack of Hameed's thread. (Sorry Hameed.)I hope some of this makes sense.

 

Neo
nice explanation

Nice pics Hameed!
got love those HREs!!

 

Very good explanation Neo.

Just to clarify the size of my rims to koreanpers - the fronts are 8.5 inches wide and the rears are 9.5 inches wide. I am pretty sure (just as Neo has confirmed) that you cannot put a 275 mm size tire on a 8.5 inch rim.

 

Thanks bud, looking to get something like that in the hopefully not to distant future.

 

that was the best description of the tire aspect ratio that i've ever read. now it finally makes sense. i also learned more about protecting the wheel with the sidewall. i also learned you can get the benefits of 18" and 20" in a 19" wheel
great review neo
3dog

 

Hi, thanks for that! You cleared up my confusion. I knew the part about what each number represents...but was confused on how wide of tires we can actually use

 

Thanks guys. I knew about some of that before but learned a lot of it from my years here on CL too. Just giving back that's all.

My only addemdum to the sidewall protection part is that the lower profile tires tend to have stiffer sidewalls which gives some protection. There is a point where you go from "normal" tires to "low profile" tires. I can't remember where that point is or if it is even a common point with all manufacturers. 50 norm/45 low? or 45 norm / 40 low? ... At those borderline numbers, going for higher profile = bigger sidewall may not necesarily give you better protection.

 

your car looks good hameed. i can't wait to see it done. mainly i think the flex is going to make HUGE difference on the look of the car. right now coz' the car is so high, the wheels look pretty small. when the car is lowered it will be much nider i think.

oh and you should take off all the ltuned badge man, they are so outdated

 

Yes, the wheels do look small. Oh well, once I put the Flex on that should change it. Right now it is only high at the front. At the back it is barely a finger gap, so I am not sure how it will change the overall look so dramatically..............

The L-tuned badges are outdated? Hmmmm........ Why are they outdated anyway? Just curious.

 

ohohoh, i forgot you have the ltuned exhaust. in that case no it's not outdated. i had a feeling that you had the ltuned suspension, and since you are going to flex, you should take them off. but you have the ltuned exhaust so it's warranted

well once you put all the audio stuff on the car you will need to end up raising the back a bit but trust me, once you lowered your front more, you will see the difference. it's hard to say, but same thing happened to me. i lowered the front more and man is that nice

 

Very nice Ham.

 

Plus the L-tuned side skirts, L-tuned grille, L-tuned Steering ECU bro!
My audio system will be SQ focussed, which means I will only have one 12 inch sub and one 4 channel amp, (and possibly a second amp down the road in the future when I change the audio system to a Dolby Digital 5.1 Surround sound system with monitors in the rear headrests).so the added weight will be negligible. Plus I plan to remove the full-size spare and that will further offset the weight in the rear.

 

Spring is here!!

I just had the Tein Flex Coilover installed yesterday. I did not get a chance to install the EDFC yet. Perhaps in the next day or two.

Anyway, I set the shock damper setting to 6/8 and the ride is stiffer than the L-tuned suspension I had on previously - however the improvement is not just a stiffer ride, but the handling is much better too. The goes where it is pointed and there is zero body roll! I love this suspension!! The ride is still very nice, not jarring or uncomfortable at all. Not sure why you guys that had the Flex switched out to the CS......

Anyway, impressions later - moving on to pics now.

Here are a couple of before pics:







And now for some AFTER pics with the Flex - lowered to no gap at the back and 1 finger in the front.

 

Which mod should I do next? The pics below or the EDFC?

 

Nice. Congrats on the install. As for the switching out, it all has to do with our different butt-o-meters. Ride-wise, I had no problems with the Flex at first too. Over the long haul, I will admit to my wife that it is a bit stiff. Still, I was OK with it. One of the reasons I switched though was for her. If your wife is fine with the ride, than you have no problems.