My GS400 modding journal - commenced Feb. 2003
#436
Originally posted by Hameed
Yeah, here is the tracking number:
INYOURDREAMSBUDDY67809 - I sent it via UPS this morning. You should be getting it by Tuesday next week!
Yeah, here is the tracking number:
INYOURDREAMSBUDDY67809 - I sent it via UPS this morning. You should be getting it by Tuesday next week!
#437
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Hameed,
DasGalloway on SELOC had a very good writeup on brake break in I'll paste in here.
DasGalloway on SELOC had a very good writeup on brake break in I'll paste in here.
Originally posted by DasGalloway
Some of us have recently gotten new rotors and pads installed, and I've been asked by a few members why their brakes were shaking or vibrating when they started using their new setup.
It sees a lot of people think that they just have to put the new brakes on then start driving... installation isn't the end of the process here! I've heard from quite a few people that they were told their brand new rotors were warped, ruined, not balanced, needed to be turned before use, and a whole slew of other things.
If you've just gotten new rotors/pads installed and HAVEN'T FOLLOWED THE STEPS BELOW... your brakes probably aren't warped/ruined/whatever. You just need to brake them in!
I was going to retype all this out in my own words but figured it asn't neccessary... I got it off IS300.net a long time ago but don't know the original author. Credit to them for a good writeup!
Some of us have recently gotten new rotors and pads installed, and I've been asked by a few members why their brakes were shaking or vibrating when they started using their new setup.
It sees a lot of people think that they just have to put the new brakes on then start driving... installation isn't the end of the process here! I've heard from quite a few people that they were told their brand new rotors were warped, ruined, not balanced, needed to be turned before use, and a whole slew of other things.
If you've just gotten new rotors/pads installed and HAVEN'T FOLLOWED THE STEPS BELOW... your brakes probably aren't warped/ruined/whatever. You just need to brake them in!
I was going to retype all this out in my own words but figured it asn't neccessary... I got it off IS300.net a long time ago but don't know the original author. Credit to them for a good writeup!
If you've just installed a big brake kit or even if you've only changed your brake pads and rotors, you should "bed" them in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding of brakes will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors.
When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving so erratically!
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.
Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.
When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving so erratically!
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.
Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.
Last edited by DaveGS4; 04-16-04 at 07:50 AM.
#440
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Jersey
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here we go!!
I want to thank Hammed (either that or curse him out) for posting his pics of the stoptech brakes!!
after being deprived of sleep for 2 days..i could not resist the urge and bought myself a pair of the stoptech brakes!!
just ordered them today and they should be coming in next week! Hopefully my local mechanic whose really good can do the job and not over charge me like crazy! granted he's not a certified lexus mechanic, but i guess i dont have much of a choice!
i had to go with the 13's because of the setup of my wheels ( just bough a pair of hypersilver AXIS MOD7's- staggered fittment 20x9 in front and 20x10 rear, 245/30/20 front and 285/30/20 rear! )
you guys are right..once you start with the mods..thers no ending it!! i just bought the car and already ive spent well over 7 grand!
but its all good! I love my car!
after being deprived of sleep for 2 days..i could not resist the urge and bought myself a pair of the stoptech brakes!!
just ordered them today and they should be coming in next week! Hopefully my local mechanic whose really good can do the job and not over charge me like crazy! granted he's not a certified lexus mechanic, but i guess i dont have much of a choice!
i had to go with the 13's because of the setup of my wheels ( just bough a pair of hypersilver AXIS MOD7's- staggered fittment 20x9 in front and 20x10 rear, 245/30/20 front and 285/30/20 rear! )
you guys are right..once you start with the mods..thers no ending it!! i just bought the car and already ive spent well over 7 grand!
but its all good! I love my car!
#441
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
I think the biggest challenge with bedding in brakes is to find a road you can do this on! Because if you can't come to a complete stop then it's hard to turn around and you probably shouldn't be doing this on a divided highway for example! Maybe the best bet is to do it in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere???
#442
exclusive matchup
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by bitkahuna
I think the biggest challenge with bedding in brakes is to find a road you can do this on! Because if you can't come to a complete stop then it's hard to turn around and you probably shouldn't be doing this on a divided highway for example! Maybe the best bet is to do it in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere???
I think the biggest challenge with bedding in brakes is to find a road you can do this on! Because if you can't come to a complete stop then it's hard to turn around and you probably shouldn't be doing this on a divided highway for example! Maybe the best bet is to do it in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere???
#443
Lexus Champion
Originally posted by Hameed
Yes, I have the manual, but I am so lazy I never read manuals! I will take care of this today or tomorrow.
I just have to find a road to do this on. I think that would be the biggest challenge for me.
Yes, I have the manual, but I am so lazy I never read manuals! I will take care of this today or tomorrow.
I just have to find a road to do this on. I think that would be the biggest challenge for me.
You know Bristol Circle is perfect place on the weekend to do this bed the brakes in.. I've used this stretch of road many times when I had the GS's brakes installed before little bro took the car over..
#444
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Originally posted by rominl
usually in those industrial park, at night there aren't any traffic and you can find some good stretches of reads
usually in those industrial park, at night there aren't any traffic and you can find some good stretches of reads
#445
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by 2SAVVY
Hameed,
You know Bristol Circle is perfect place on the weekend to do this bed the brakes in.. I've used this stretch of road many times when I had the GS's brakes installed before little bro took the car over..
Hameed,
You know Bristol Circle is perfect place on the weekend to do this bed the brakes in.. I've used this stretch of road many times when I had the GS's brakes installed before little bro took the car over..
#446
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Originally posted by Hameed
I didn't know you had big brakes on your former GS....? I thought you just upgraded the rotors to drilled rotors? What big brake kit did you install?
I didn't know you had big brakes on your former GS....? I thought you just upgraded the rotors to drilled rotors? What big brake kit did you install?
#447
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by bitkahuna
Hameed - You have to bed in any kind of pads/rotors change.
Hameed - You have to bed in any kind of pads/rotors change.
I had the brakes completely redone last summer and I know nobody bedded those in.
#448
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Originally posted by Hameed
I feel like a complete idiot now. Now I know why the new rotors on my wife's Maxima feel warped..............
I had the brakes completely redone last summer and I know nobody bedded those in.
I feel like a complete idiot now. Now I know why the new rotors on my wife's Maxima feel warped..............
I had the brakes completely redone last summer and I know nobody bedded those in.
#449
Lexus Champion
Thanks Bit for answering the question..
No worries Hameed I didn't know either till I Dex mentioned bedding in brakes in one of his threads way back when..
No worries Hameed I didn't know either till I Dex mentioned bedding in brakes in one of his threads way back when..