oldManTan

woop woop!!! that sounds awesome!!!!!! bit loud on idle but who the hell cares!

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

haha, I honestly think its just from where I put the camera/tablet. if I put it to the side, the idle quiets down a bit. cause in my car its not that loud. but I honestly don't care, I want loud.
in other news, I installed my new to me fender, new to me mirror, new to me door hinge, new to me tan lower drivers side door panel that I painted black, new clutch line from driftmotion, custom line blocker so my clutch pedal doesn't sink down, I can drive around with my foot on the clutch pedal and it wont sink. haha.
I also received my flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, clutch alignment tool, shifter gasket, shifter grommets, marlin crawler urethane shift bushing, and manual shift boot from driftmotion. . I have had my flywheel and bell housing for a couple days now. all I'm waiting for is the shifter extension, clutch kit, and trans mount.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

HA just noticed your going manual from auto.... LOL but my statement below still fallows.. if that does happen after your manual swap is done, one of the two are bad lol Anyways carry on!

If your clutch pedal sinks to the ground that means you have a bad clutch slave or bad clutch master cylinder... I had the same issue with the pedal sinking to to the ground after bleeding the line for more than an hour and still sunk to the ground. I replaced both, bleed the clutch and it was fine. might be something you need to add to your list . Very dangerous driving around with a bad slave and master...

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

no... the only reason it sunk to the ground was because I didn't have a fluid line. there was no fluid in the reservoir because it would all come out. I didn't have a fluid line on the master cylinder or a slave cylinder. it all works good now cause I added the line but blocked it so the fluid doesn't escape.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

ok so my car is at the muffler shop getting the last piece of my exhaust work done. 2.5 inch y pipe to 2.5 inch magnaflow with 4 inch muffler tips. i have no idea how its going to sound but i hope its good. if not then i'll just add a resonator.
i also decided, i'm gonna hate myself for deciding this. but my next project is going to be a paint job. i have promised you guys lots of pictures but havent delivered, when i get my car back and is in the air from the muffler shop, i'll take pics and a vid of how it sounds. from a better recording device than my tablet. lol. anyways, also for the fender and door panels i added.
i'm still debating between silver and flat black.
after paint job, here comes the i hate my life, i'm going to save up to get a haltech ecu. of course i would have to buy a map sensor and 2 widebands per bank since i'm not turbo yet, but i emailed haltech support and thats all i need to get to swap ecu's around.

oldManTan

haltech is insane, should be a great set up.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

i was looking today for a map sensor from driftmotion, cost 289 for a brand new one not including the connector. I might be able to find one on clublexus or other forums but I would be much happier buying a new one.
the 2 widebands I would need seem to be the bosch lsu 4.2. not to mention the a/f ratio guage. I have been wanting haltech ever since I heard they were top quality, which was about 7 to 10 years ago, somewhere in that range. lol.
now i'm making it my goal to make that my next project after I install my r154, new to me engine, and paint my car.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

update: got my car back from best muffler shop. supper happy with how it LOOKS, but hate how it sounds. it sounded like a nasty Honda that tried to hard. so I went back and put back on my factory b pipe with the real catalytic. I believe the muffler shop sold me a quiet muffler cause now its not loud at all. i'm debating just putting back on the factory manifold as well with the catalytic converter. I just want to see how it all sounds cause i'm really not happy.
anyways, I also got almost everything done for the transmission. I spent all day yesterday cleaning it up. I changed the rear output shaft seal as well. I need to change the vss o-ring so that doesn't leak either because the trans had a bad leak. I got pictures. i'll let them do the talking.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

here are the pics.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

well i got a bunch of stuff done within the last few days. i got everything buttoned up on my 5 speed. it drove like a charm. trans fit perfectly, shifts like butter but would be better if my shifter wasnt so long, (the mk3 shifter hits the shifter bezel on both positions,) so i bought a driftmotion short throw shifter. its gonna be here tomorrow, saturday.
bad news, i drove my 5 speed for 1 week, then i hydrolocked my engine, my blown head gasket has been getting worse and worse. i had to start filling up my coolant everyday as opposed to every 2 or 3 days when it first started. luckily i was able to turn it on by manually turning over the engine slowly. so today and yesterday i took out my engine. i got pics of it out and the new to me engine on a stand. i'm hoping to have it all buttoned up by next weekend since i work too damn much. got pics of obx headers with fake cat welded on, b pipe with fake cat welded on, and the trans tunnel for how much it had to be cut. enjoy.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

how shifter sits on trans tunnel. it doesnt sit this far forward, just the engine is out so the trans is leaning a little forward. sitting on jack stand.

this is the piece that i'm gonna weld on my trans tunnel. just need to drill holes and weld nuts on the bottom for the shifter boot.

new trans in an empty engine bay. both my motor mounts are bad so i'm replacing those as well.



figured while engine is out, should be the best time to fix all my crappy wiring. got wiring protection to make it look all pretty and stuff. ha.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

old engine sitting on ground.

new engine. just gotta put oil pan on and am done with bottom end.

head still needs a lot of work. put back all valves, hope i dont need a mil, although i should, hope i dont need a valve job, although i should, hope i dont need to mil the block either. i'm just slapping this engine together and rebuilding the one thats coming out.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

had to take apart the old blown head gasket cause I needed the washers for the head bolts. I know i'm not using arp head studs but that's cause this engine is only gonna be in my car long enough for me to rebuild my original engine, granted its not in too bad shape, and put either gte pistons or just gte head gasket, arp head studs, mil the head and block and sand blast the head. will hopefully post pics today.
while the engine is out I started sanding the engine bay. I want to paint it and deciding on flat black but still not 100% on the color. so far I've only done the passenger strut tower and my hand keeps fighting me. I pulled my thumb finger nail so I cant grip the sandpaper and I got a cut on the inside of my index finger so I cant apply proper pressure. sounds like a bunch of excuses but its not. i'm still gonna get it done.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

heres what my flywheel looked like after a week of driving it. i was always real soft on it, didnt take off hard or anything. i think its cause its aluminum, or if not, then i just gotta learn to drive better. lol. no more hard spots hopefully.

this is the block that i want to sand down and bondo straight.

this is after one day of sanding. i got a little farther on my second day but so far only the passenger side has been sanded down. still have to remove brake line and subframe bracket to sand the rest.

also cleaned up the subframe with some gasoline. made it look nice and purtty.

thats all for pictures now. i did happen to weld the holes on my trunk shut so now there should be less road noise. i will take pics. i still plan on dynamatting my whole trunk but thats after i cut off and weld shut the whole spare tire well.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

so heres what my short throw shifter looks like installed with the trd shift ****. still haven't done anything to the trans tunnel as i'm waiting to have the engine installed so I know exactly where the shifter will sit. want to be as accurate as possible.

finally got my cylinder head back from the muffler shop. had them weld the coolant passage shut since I don't have a heater core. don't want coolant leaking from there.

also had them weld this coolant passage shut, it goes to the throttle body but its not needed.

lastly had this coolant passage welded shut too. its for the heater core and the back side of the throttle body. it all came out perfect.