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Today, I took my IS350 to the brand-new Lexus of Orlando dealership that recently opened up next to the theme parks. Holy cow, the building architecture is very modern and the facility is huge. There were plenty of new Lexus F cars on display and I even spotted a beautiful LC500 in the limited edition Structural Blue color. It almost makes me want to trade in my car for something new and shiny.
Next Friday, I'll be taking my IS350 to a new shop that has a climate-controlled air-conditioned dynojet. I'm curious to see what difference the revised tune with a two-degree ignition timing advance increase will make on the dyno. Though it won't be the same shop as the previous one I went to, at least I'll be able to rule out high temperatures being a factor with my previous results.
Next Friday, I'll be taking my IS350 to a new shop that has a climate-controlled air-conditioned dynojet. I'm curious to see what difference the revised tune with a two-degree ignition timing advance increase will make on the dyno. Though it won't be the same shop as the previous one I went to, at least I'll be able to rule out high temperatures being a factor with my previous results.
Nice! That will definitely help. It only take one pass down my 1/8th mile here locally to get the engine heat-soaked and my slips immediately start getting worse.
Good luck with the dyno, try to get some logs too while on the dyno. I have been wanting to get on a dyno but I don't trust my AFR since the last exhaust upgrade so I am in need of a revised tune. And on that topic, if you were wanting to change up your exhaust I would recommend having a shop make a dual 2.5" exhaust for you. This so far has given me the best gains (at least in measured airflow) out of everything I have done with my car unless you compare the airflow difference in the RPM increase from the tune.
And if you trade in your car... can I get dibs on buying your diff?
Nice! That will definitely help. It only take one pass down my 1/8th mile here locally to get the engine heat-soaked and my slips immediately start getting worse.
Have you done an 1/8 mile run after your PPE header install? I like that you've insisted on keeping your stock midpipe and exhaust and still managed to pull an impressive 286rwhp at the dyno.
Perhaps you should consider downloading the Torque Pro app and recording your MAF rate, AFR, ignition timing, etc so we can have more data points to compare with the group.
Originally Posted by DickH
Good luck with the dyno, try to get some logs too while on the dyno.
Yeah, now that I'm pretty familiar with Torque Pro, I plan on having it record data while the car is on the dyno. I just have to verify that Torque Pro is logging data in the background while my phone is on camera mode as I plan on recording the run like I did previously.
Speaking of dyno runs, last time I left the car in ECT PWR mode during the pulls as that's the setting I have on the car 99% of the time. If I set the ECT to SNOW mode, will it have any impact whatsoever on the overall RWHP output? I definitely want to see what the car is pulling at the lower RPMs but I'm not 100% certain if there is any minor reduction in torque or horsepower by doing so. I've only played around with ECT Snow maybe once or twice so I'm not familiar with how the power output will be or if the ECU has to relearn and thus slightly reduce HP.
I plan on tinkering with ECT Snow this weekend on the highway to see what MPH I can go full throttle at while in 4th gear without the transmission dropping down a gear. For both ECT Normal and PWR, my car would drop down to 3rd gear if I went WOT in 4th below 75mph.
Originally Posted by DickH
I have been wanting to get on a dyno but I don't trust my AFR since the last exhaust upgrade so I am in need of a revised tune. And on that topic, if you were wanting to change up your exhaust I would recommend having a shop make a dual 2.5" exhaust for you. This so far has given me the best gains (at least in measured airflow) out of everything I have done with my car unless you compare the airflow difference in the RPM increase from the tune.
Did your AFR of 13.0+ change since you did the 2.5" exhaust mod? What is your peak MAF rate now? For comparison sake, it looks like Torque Pro is recording about 242g/s for my setup.
Since I paid a pretty penny for the F-Sport exhaust, I don't plan on selling it anytime soon for a 2.5" exhaust system. According to Lexus, the F-Sport exhaust tubing diameter is 60mm (2.36") so it's pretty close.
I am still debating on whether or not to spend the extra $500 for a set of Megan midpipes but from my extensive research on multiple CL threads, total estimated gains are minimal at about 2-3 rwhp (though I'm not certain if the gains would be even more with aftermarket headers as another factor).
Originally Posted by DickH
And if you trade in your car... can I get dibs on buying your diff?
Hehe, the OS Giken diff is the primary reason as to why I plan on keeping this IS350 for the life of the car.
If, heaven forbid, my car is one day totaled, then I'll figure out the best way to part out the car and you can have first dibs on the LSD.
Have you done an 1/8 mile run after your PPE header install? I like that you've insisted on keeping your stock midpipe and exhaust and still managed to pull an impressive 286rwhp at the dyno.
Yes, but it wasn't any faster than what is listed within my sig because of the temps were hotter outside. Yep! I have considered doing a Megan mid-pipe and a custom open-loop exhaust; but I don't think I'm dumping any more money into this car. Saving for the next, best thing.
I would dyno in snow mode, the difference is just in how the throttle and transmission behave. As for the exhaust, I don't have any data comparing my stock exhaust vs the dual 2.25" so I don't know what the gains were there (sounded a lot better) but with the dual 2.25" exhaust id range from 228-235 g/s depending on weather and whatnot and so far with the dual 2.5" I am getting ~237-242 g/s at peak. With all things equal, you should be ~4% more than me due to the elevation difference so id bet if you dropped your car off at an exhaust shop and had them make you something you'd see gains. My afr went from mid-highish 13:1s to the low 14.xx:1 range since the exhaust, so I am likely down on some power.
Yes, but it wasn't any faster than what is listed within my sig because of the temps were hotter outside. Yep! I have considered doing a Megan mid-pipe and a custom open-loop exhaust; but I don't think I'm dumping any more money into this car. Saving for the next, best thing.
I'm guessing it's still the Camaro SS 1LE?
Originally Posted by DickH
I would dyno in snow mode, the difference is just in how the throttle and transmission behave. As for the exhaust, I don't have any data comparing my stock exhaust vs the dual 2.25" so I don't know what the gains were there (sounded a lot better) but with the dual 2.25" exhaust id range from 228-235 g/s depending on weather and whatnot and so far with the dual 2.5" I am getting ~237-242 g/s at peak. With all things equal, you should be ~4% more than me due to the elevation difference so id bet if you dropped your car off at an exhaust shop and had them make you something you'd see gains. My afr went from mid-highish 13:1s to the low 14.xx:1 range since the exhaust, so I am likely down on some power.
Thanks for added input. That's crazy to see your AFR running very lean all of a sudden. Have you tried recording your EGT to see if the lean AFR has an impact?
I did spend some time over the weekend driving the car in ECT Snow mode extensively and it took me some to adjust to the transmission's shift and throttle behavior. I was able to make some key determinations from playing around at WOT in snow mode:
- While in ECT Snow mode and WOT, the transmission will remain in 4th gear when going full throttle at speeds of 55+mph. This is in stark contrast to ECT PWR mode where you had to be at least 75+mph when going WOT in 4th gear or else the transmission would drop down to 3rd gear. I'll definitely be able to record a broader HP and TQ range from at least 3000 RPMs for the next dyno event this Friday.
- Using Torque Pro, I verified that the AFR and Ignition Timing Advance was the same whether you're in ECT PWR or Snow mode. Below is what I recorded in ECT Snow Mode which is fairly similar to my previous logs while in ECT PWR (with the exception of much higher IATs which may have resulted in a lower MAF rate (g/s)):
I also had a chance to wash my dirty IS350 over the weekend and removed all of the excessive brake dust. I forgot what my wheels actually look like when they're supposed to be clean. LOL.
What are your settings for logging? Try logging with "synchronous logging" and see if you get better looking logs.
For my data log settings, I've had the Synchronous Logging option off and I've been setting my File Logging Interval to 0.1 secs which is how I captured my previous logs. Though each sensor has a different refresh rate, it looks like the app does a decent job at capturing the multiple data points at every 1/10 second.
Earlier today, I captured some data with Synchronous Logging and below was my output from two seperate WOT pulls. From looking at the device time, I would get a new reading every 0.3-0.5 seconds which makes the data look scattered compared to the previous 0.1 sec refresh rate interval setting.
That is the setting I use, as I feel it is cleaner and easier to look at. You might think that an upate every .3-.4s is worse than .1s, but if you look at your other log you still have 3-5 data points for each RPM entry. You might be able to improve it slightly by keeping what you log to a minimal. You are not logging much, but you could get away with removing the coolant temp, speed and load. You will ultimately be limited by the obd device you are using to log.
On an unrelated topic, how is traction with your car now? Power wise our cars should be close, and we are using the same rear tires. These cars don't make too much power, but my 0-60 is very limited by my tires. I have to ease into the throttle to keep the tires from breaking loose. I haven't tried too hard to find out what my best could be due to my current AFR, but the other night I was stopped on a pretty clean road and was able to get a 5.3s 0-60. I imagine your diff is a bit gives you a bit more forgiveness.
^Having the ability to adjust the dampening helps with the "hooking" off the line. I usually have my rear BCRs setup to a lower dampening to help with weight transfer. I just put on new Firehawk Indy 500s on Monday. I'm liking them so far. I'm able to stick and hold a WOT pull from a dead-stop any time.
That is the setting I use, as I feel it is cleaner and easier to look at. You might think that an upate every .3-.4s is worse than .1s, but if you look at your other log you still have 3-5 data points for each RPM entry. You might be able to improve it slightly by keeping what you log to a minimal. You are not logging much, but you could get away with removing the coolant temp, speed and load. You will ultimately be limited by the obd device you are using to log.
Yes, there are a few PIDs that were nice to look at initially but serve me no purpose anymore (and may potentially delay the refresh rate of the inputs received as the more PIDs being logged, the more of a possibility for delays). I'll play around with the configurations a bit more but after my upcoming dyno event tomorrow, I'll probably be using the app less as there's no new data for me to extract and analyze until I do another performance mod or receive another tune file.
Originally Posted by DickH
On an unrelated topic, how is traction with your car now? Power wise our cars should be close, and we are using the same rear tires. These cars don't make too much power, but my 0-60 is very limited by my tires. I have to ease into the throttle to keep the tires from breaking loose. I haven't tried too hard to find out what my best could be due to my current AFR, but the other night I was stopped on a pretty clean road and was able to get a 5.3s 0-60. I imagine your diff is a bit gives you a bit more forgiveness.
Funny thing is I haven't really tested the traction of my tires from off the line since getting a new set of tires several thousand miles ago. On my old tires, I remember getting 5.1 sec times from 0-60 with lots of wheelspin throughout 1st gear but I think I should be getting a better time now. Maybe I'm due for another 0-60 sample run.
Originally Posted by Gville350
^Having the ability to adjust the dampening helps with the "hooking" off the line. I usually have my rear BCRs setup to a lower dampening to help with weight transfer. I just put on new Firehawk Indy 500s on Monday. I'm liking them so far. I'm able to stick and hold a WOT pull from a dead-stop any time.
The Indy 500 tires are supposed to be the best bang-for-your-buck tires out there. Looks like you're another preacher to the choir!
I just got back from my dyno day and I'm not sure what to make out of the results (especially since each dyno is calibrated differently). Even with an air-conditioned facility and a revised ECU tune file with another two degrees of ignition timing advance, I made less power on this dynojet (270rwhp) than my previous dyno event two months ago at a non-air-conditioned dynojet (283rwhp). Not sure if I'll ever see this car go past 290rwhp or 300rwhp...
This time, I did put the car in ECT Snow mode and I was able to see the torque curve at the lower RPM range which looked pretty good. I do have datalogs of the two runs I did today that I'll extract and post later.
05-25-18, 04:23 PM
