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Seeing the AFR on the first runs vs the stable 13.0:1 makes me feel better about their tune. Hell the oem map nealy allows you to fog it from the factory.
My Yamaha street bike has a pretty similar head and piston shape and getting under 12.8:1 is no help. Keeping the AFR at 13.0 to 13.1:1 from 5k to 13k and it sings making good power.
So what was your take on the puffs of blue, Rev limit induced? And you might just verify snow mode does take it 7,200....
Sorry to change subject really quick here but as I saw you guys talking about Torque Pro, I went in and bought it.
What widgets should I be using for common test besides the ones shown? Tried to find the one that detects knocks but is nowhere to be found. This readings were when car was idling.
Sorryfor interrupting and thanks in advance.
Last edited by Marn1; 03-14-19 at 01:27 PM.
Reason: adding
So what was your take on the puffs of blue, Rev limit induced? And you might just verify snow mode does take it 7,200....
Not sure about the puffs of blue smoke after the gas pedal was released. Perhaps the car was still dumping fuel when the engine was no longer under maximum load? Regarding snow mode, I had previously verified via datalogs that the engine will rev to 7200 RPMs and confirmed that there is no change to the ignition timing advance for either ECT Snow, Normal, or PWR.
Originally Posted by Marn1
Sorry to change subject really quick here but as I saw you guys talking about Torque Pro, I went in and bought it.
What widgets should I be using for common test besides the ones shown? Tried to find the one that detects knocks but is nowhere to be found. This readings were when car was idling.
Sorryfor interrupting and thanks in advance.
No worries. This is as good a thread as any for discussion Torque Pro, datalogs, etc. As I've only viewed the Torque Pro widgets via my smartphone, I'm not used to seeing so many displays available all at once.
With Torque Pro, there are no widgets for detecting knock (KCLV and KFB). You'll have to use another third-party app such as OBD Fusion and also purchase the Toyota/Lexus add-ons in order to access these proprietary values.
It looks like you have all of the necessary displays to view what the ECU is recording in real time. Once you activate the datalogging option, you'll have the option to selectively choose which items to record (I believe the more items you select to record, the slower the feedback can potentially be). For my recorded datalogs, I tend to stick with AFR, Engine Load, Engine RPMs, IAT, MAF g/s and Ignition Timing Advance.
Sorry to change subject really quick here but as I saw you guys talking about Torque Pro, I went in and bought it.
What widgets should I be using for common test besides the ones shown? Tried to find the one that detects knocks but is nowhere to be found. This readings were when car was idling.
Sorryfor interrupting and thanks in advance.
Do you have an intake on your car? It looks like you're lean on your LTFTs. Also I dont know if you have a 350, or 250 the MAF 4.4 g/s look a little high for idle.
Drive the car on cruise take a snapshot of the LTFTs should be a little close to 0 probably good on the rich side. I realised awhile back I bought a denso new MAF, and my LTFTS would be off while driving bank 1 was around -1.6 Bank 2 was adding +3.1 car ran like crap.
I then got a OEM denso one from Ebay used just to confirm.
My LTFTs where good then at cruising both banks are about -1.6 to -.08. Since then the car has always felt great.
I actually have 2 new denso first time fit MAFs. Both same results. One side would go lean cruising.
The original OEM spec MAF gave me back good equal numbers on both banks.
Do you have an intake on your car? It looks like you're lean on your LTFTs. Also I dont know if you have a 350, or 250 the MAF 4.4 g/s look a little high for idle.
Drive the car on cruise take a snapshot of the LTFTs should be a little close to 0 probably good on the rich side. I realised awhile back I bought a denso new MAF, and my LTFTS would be off while driving bank 1 was around -1.6 Bank 2 was adding +3.1 car ran like crap.
I then got a OEM denso one from Ebay used just to confirm.
My LTFTs where good then at cruising both banks are about -1.6 to -.08. Since then the car has always felt great.
I actually have 2 new denso first time fit MAFs. Both same results. One side would go lean cruising.
The original OEM spec MAF gave me back good equal numbers on both banks.
car is an IS350 07
Has custom exhaust and KN drop in with cold box modified with a hole. Here a screenshot cruising at 22+ mph
You have too much going on there. You could get rid of the AFR(C), your fuel trims, coolant, vacuum, battery level and the calculated HP/TQ numbers are probably not any good. I would also change the maf gauge to include peak numbers.
My Bluetooth can't keep up with much. Like set the interval to 0.25 seconds and log more than 5 things and the log interval is more like 0.60 seconds.
Then again phone is also connected to cars system bluetooth phone / entertainment system too. I'll turn it off and see if that helps but previously on other vehicles it didn't matter.
Chart from Torque Pro, stock 2013 IS-350 @ 78,xxx mi.
Logging set to 0.20 seconds.
Rolling start at 4mph hits R-limiter at 86.x in 3rd.
Max MAF = 224g/s
Timing gets pulled back a good bit on the shifts...
Anyone have data showing how much the ignition advance gets pulled at Max load during shifts?
Red, if you wanna try out an aftermarket SRI to see about any potential gains, guess who has a good, used Fujita intake for sale. LOL!
Funny thing is that I'm thinking about purchasing a stock OEM lower intake box (or temporarily sealing up the hole on the F-Sport lower intake box) and observing the impact to changes in the MAF g/s when at WOT and comparing the Intake Air Temp (IAT) recordings when the car is at idle, cruising on the highway, and how much it differs from the ambient outside temperatures (I typically see a recorded average of 15 degrees higher in IAT compared to the outside temperature) when the weather is warm.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Chart from Torque Pro, stock 2013 IS-350 @ 78,xxx mi.
Logging set to 0.20 seconds.
Rolling start at 4mph hits R-limiter at 86.x in 3rd.
Max MAF = 224g/s
Timing gets pulled back a good bit on the shifts...
Anyone have data showing how much the ignition advance gets pulled at Max load during shifts?
When I look back at some of my older datalogs which had a single WOT pull beginning in 2nd gear and ending at the rev limit on 3rd gear, the documented ignition timing advance shows the timing going from 29ish degrees to 11-16 degrees when the shifts occur. Not sure how accurate it is compared to your graph but it's additional data for the sample pool.
Your polling interval is much quicker than mine. Are you using a WiFi OBD?
And I have it set to the minimum value but again mine is an elm 327 bluetooth clone.
Btw has any of you figured out the custom PID and formula for reading trans temp on our IS350?
Nice reminder... the torque app lists two by default but neither of the "canned" options work. Yes, they report a number but they simply reflect engine temperature as the transmission does not mirror the engine like that and from cold start, will take a lot longer to warm than engine coolant.
So, don't believe everything you see regarding Torque data.
I'll look on my laptop tonight, I have 4 different formulas I meant to try.
Hey red, I was looking at some of my logs and noticed my ignition timing at wot was always the same (excluding shifts). Have you noticed this as well? I am now wondering if the kclv actually matters or if maybe my knock sensor is bad.
03-08-19, 10:01 AM
2013 350 Torque log chart
