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So besides the RR Racing S/C kit, the only additional "upgrade" available that could release some more whp in your build would be a CF driveshaft. Any thought about doing that? I know of one member that posted after receiving it and LOVED his!
So besides the RR Racing S/C kit, the only additional "upgrade" available that could release some more whp in your build would be a CF driveshaft. Any thought about doing that? I know of one member that posted after receiving it and LOVED his!
To lazy to retype all this but what about this.
At a glance I think it is to wide so I have a post in the ISF section for someone to get some measurements. You might need a hood scoop tho! Lol
I'm just thinking what if a port job and proper manifold unleashed the 3.5?
Maybe???
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
this weekend I removed the TB valve to clean that mesh behind it and look and see what if any build up is in the intake. The accordion hose has zero oil film or deposits while the intake upper plenum is saturated but no real build up per say.
This thing sees RPM often, its got 82k mi, I lock the trans in dedicated positions for descending hills as I hate riding the brakes and having it bang through 6 gears only to reach a stop sign. My guess is that normal engine shut down vapors and pulling high vacuum add to this build up and its pretty normal for all engines. I'll have to pull the intake and see what my 30,000 miles of driving has done for it.
And yes, the main reason for all the snooping is curiosity if this could possibly straddle the 3.5????
Inside the 2UR intake (a CL Link)...
Gathering info as this has far too many similarities to ignore...
Bingo! Surgically removing an end, axe two feed holes and then weld it back together restoring the end on the cavity. That's what I had in mind at least and it is doable if the width is correct. That said, measuring familiar land marks on the ports says the UR intake is too wide so I think all bets are off until you model the intake and squirt out a 6 hole version via 3D printer or something like that.
You noticed 2UR bump stick is not a blob of cast iron either. More like a machined tube with lobes welded to it like certain Yamaha engines we know of thus, having less mass for better throttle response! We got ripped off! Like other games it would be bad if the 350 got to close to their higher performance sedan.
Honestly, after owning and working on Yami 4-cyl 4-stroke outboards, owning an R6 for a while, and doing some work on an R1 head, I'd believe it if someone said Yamaha was solely responsible for the design of the air tract of the whole family, with the higher-end stuff being subconned out to them for production.
Then again, when I look at 4AGE heads, I kinda think Yami and Toyota just share flow benches or something...
So besides the RR Racing S/C kit, the only additional "upgrade" available that could release some more whp in your build would be a CF driveshaft. Any thought about doing that? I know of one member that posted after receiving it and LOVED his!
I remember the old CL threads regarding carbon fiber driveshafts (particularly from the ISF sub-forum) and while it would be an interesting upgrade, there were plenty of forum members downplaying the benefits of the CF driveshaft stating that its impact would be minimal at best. There were also members that attempted to have a CF driveshaft built that ended up not fitting correctly, which also became a deterrent for me. Perhaps if a shop can reliably build a CF driveshaft that would properly fit without issue and if we had more CL members validating its benefits, I would consider it. Until then, I don’t wish to gamble on a $1,500ish mod that I may end up being unhappy with.
Speaking of untested boundaries, I am happy to see that the 2IS forums have had an influx of discussions on the Performance sub-forum regarding potential engine mods/upgrades for both the 4GR and 2GR engines (i.e. throttle bodies, intake manifolds, camshafts, etc.). It’s a topic that hasn’t been delved into deeply due to the lack of either aftermarket support or interest from CL members (possibly due to minimal gains). As I plan on keeping my 2GR-FSE naturally-aspirated, hopefully one of you mad scientists can come up with unique ways with extracting more power from these engines that the rest of us can replicate.
It’s great that MWR has upgraded camshafts, valve springs, and titanium valve stems available for the 2GR-FSE but after discussing this mod with the folks at RR-Racing, the potential gains (~15-20hp at the top end) for the cost ($2k in parts + $1k for install + $XX for tune) might not be worth it. Without a standalone ECU, I’m not sure if the current tuners are able to fully take advantage of the new camshaft profile as there are restrictions to what can and cannot be tuned on the ECU (i.e. no TCU tunes). I’m also not certain if the A760E transmission or engine can support a significantly higher redline (e.g. 8,000 RPMs) long term without something eventually grenading itself.
Regarding my current mods, I ended up returning the Ultra Racing Tower Brace for another one as I noticed a small part of the bar had a poor paint finish (lots of cracks/ripples). Their customer service was fantastic as they helped resolve the issue and kept me up-to-date with the production and shipment of the new Tower Brace. I received the new brace yesterday and after another 30 minutes of carefully unwrapping the plastic, I am happy to see that there were no noticeable flaws with this solid bar. I now have three parts ready to install on the IS350 (front tower brace, FIGS sway bar poly bushings, and center tunnel brace) which I’ll very likely do on the upcoming 4th of July holiday weekend.
Wow, this is a hidden gem upgrade that I never knew existed. I'm very happy with the current steering feel and feedback from my existing mods but this looks to further improve the driving experience.
Is this a fairly straightforward mod that any mechanic shop can do without issue (assuming it's a 1-2 hr job)? If so, I'll be ordering these later this week . Do I need to order the synthetic grease as well?
Wow, this is a hidden gem upgrade that I never knew existed. I'm very happy with the current steering feel and feedback from my existing mods but this looks to further improve the driving experience.
Is this a fairly straightforward mod that any mechanic shop can do without issue (assuming it's a 1-2 hr job)? If so, I'll be ordering these later this week . Do I need to order the synthetic grease as well?
No any certified mechanic should be able to do it. It's harder on the AWD as the rack is on the backside of the subframe. So small room for movement to pop out the old stock bushings. I didn't use synthetic lubes on them. Just make sure to have them torqued properly. I added Loctite 242 to the threads. Then torqued them down to specs per the specs on the suspension section. As for greatness basically the wheels point where you turn the wheel instantly. There is no delay at all like when using the OEM bushing. Which in turn are slotted for movement. I've had no issues since installing them. You might need an alignment check just to be safe.
Mikes, Any added NVH?
The toe would not be impacted directly as that's fixed by the rack and adjusting links which don't need tampered with. That said, it could alter your steering wheel position. Which if it does, simply loosen each side and them the opposite directions equal amounts until fixed.
I'm pretty sure our dual plane plastic intake is really holding us back. Did D i c k H, ever make headway with new manifold?
Oh yeah, I forgot I put the Daizens in our rack. Totally trashed a 12" section of allthread extracting these buggers. As you can see, the stockers don't contact the full bore of the rack holes, and the passenger side has that slot in it. The Daizen inserts act like normal bushings. This mod is what got me going down the road of delrin bushings/bronze inserts on the suspension axis points (Front LCA's getting hit when I freshen up the suspension)
Edit: any added NVH? Wife can't tell they're there. I can. I was dailying it when I did the swap, which I think is the only way I can tell. It's only in like 5% of driving scenarios will you notice the stiffer bushings.
Delrin could be interesting in the NVH department. Think you just need that inner sleeve and thrust washers to capture it and perhaps add a lock bolt through the outer housing so it doesn't rotate there. You have access to a lathe? I have access to a lathe and mill. Neither are CAD capable.
Ustacould lathe. Had a DIY setup that I was using for wood and aluminum until I tried to modify it to use a dremel as the cutting tool in order to turn down retired NASCAR titanium valves (used Ti valves be cheeeeeap) to be used in my head projects. Anyway, when I took out my original tool holder to replace it with my dremelsled, I disturbed the tower holding the live center to the bench, and now the holes are egged out from too much tool pressure, so it's basically back to being a torn apart Harbor Freight drill press on it's side with like a hundred bucks of Home Depot hardware randomly stacked on it. A legit bench lathe is likely my next tool purchase, now that I've gotten bitten by the Ti bug..
Back in the day I had a distributor machine for calculating and/or recurving ignition advance and everything for doing custom valve seat angles to both head and valve. Must have had 50 different stones at one time. The Chevy and Ford days of V8s! Lots of cast iron was hawged out... Tho on the 351C (Cleveland) 4bbl heads you could already stick your hand through to the 2.190" valves! Put some sodium filled in the exhaust and let her rip.
You might just keep an eye on CL the other CL for a valve grinding machine and the setup to do the seats. I bets its out there and cheap. That said it could be pretty and not able to hold acceptable tolerances.
06-24-19, 01:50 PM
I'm very happy with the current steering feel and feedback from my existing mods but this looks to further improve the driving experience.
. Do I need to order the synthetic grease as well?
