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I've read that MKIV Supras are much, much cheaper outside of North America, and are basically considered economy sports in Europe ... much like the SC is here. Is that perhaps why there's less of a European SC community represented here on CL?
the MKIV didn't sold in big numbers over here because of the high price , economy sports cars like the Celica are very common here
the few MKIV you see here are imported from England with a RHD who were imported from Japan
and indeed the SC is a rare car here and according to Lexus Holland they only sold 20 of them from which i own a official demo car
What aspect are you unhappy with, the tight space for installing them?
Decorate each body panel with something different themed from each of the movies.
I've read that MKIV Supras are much, much cheaper outside of North America, and are basically considered economy sports in Europe ... much like the SC is here. Is that perhaps why there's less of a European SC community represented here on CL?
Yep, tight space would be great, looks like no space at all to me
Europe is quite big, but in Sweden an MkiV TT cost about 12.500$. Norway is in a class of its own when it comes to car-prices due to the extreme taxes on cars, and the TT are about 25.000$ there.
I own 1 of 4 known SC / Soarers in Norway, but there are a few that are used in drifting as well.
Yep, tight space would be great, looks like no space at all to me
Well, you seem like a creative, persistent chap, so good luck with that! I've passed on purchasing headers a couple times because of the installation challenges. Which is a shame, because the rest of the I/H/E equation has been accounted for, but there's no easy way of tackling the "H".
I own 1 of 4 known SC / Soarers in Norway, but there are a few that are used in drifting as well.
That's nuts. I thought they're rare around here, but I see one every couple weeks.
its in japan you can get the mk4 supra turbo 6speed for less than what you pay for a n/a mk4 supra auto in the states. makes we want to go over there and track some supra's.
I finally had time to perform some inconcusive testing of the handling with the new coilovers today. There is a quite fun stretch of road just 10 minutes from where I live with some great 180 degree turns going uphill and downhill with speeds of about 35mph, followed by some long sweepers with speeds of about 50-60mph.
Before the car was so soft, It would easily become unstable, particulary in the "high" speed turns. In the low speed turns the handling was quite good, some understeer unless you hit the throttle. Corner exit grip was great, and the car could easily be drifted with some power input. This was on 225-40-18 wintertires.
With the new TRD coilovers and 245-40-18 front and 275-35-18 rear the handling is completely transformed. First off all, the level of grip in turns is much better. It was like the car just would not understeer, and body roll was greatly reduced. However In the lower speed corners, any throttle input will cause massive wheelspin even with those huge rear tires, and the result is oversteer! It appears I have created a drift car I had to be careful at corner exit, but mid turn was the biggest problem really.
During the higher speed turns, I dont have enough power to get any wheelspin. Loading the chassi mid-turn makes the car push a little on the front wheels in a way it did not do before. The stability of the car is greatly increased.
I only heard the front wheels hit the inner fender once. That was in about 30mph during a 180* turn going uphill. I hit a bump midturn and the wheel touched the plastic. The spring cups can be raised for more ride height as they are in the middle of the 3 grooves in the shocks. Im considering to raise it to the top groove for some extra ride height, but Im not sure.
After this inconclusive test Im not sure what to say. Im happy with the reduced body roll, the ride is firmer ofcourse, but not to hard and the grip and handling is much better. But the acceleration grip is massively reduced, and Im not sure what to do to fix it. I can only think of 4 things that can cause this:
1: The new wheels - The offset is far from stock, and this may screw with my suspension geometry. These things are quite important, but often misunderstood.
2. The rear tires - The old tires are worn down, and too wide for the rim - Too wide in general really.
3. Too stiff springs
4. Alignment
So Ill start by replacing the rear wheels, as they are completely worn down. Hopefully that will make things better. Ill get some 255-40-18 Michelin Pilot super sport`s in about 2 weeks time.
And yes, that is 20mm less rubber on each tire, completely opposite to common knowledge. However wider tires rarely offer any advantages unless you start measuring temperatures on the track. Too me the reduceds size of the tires is an upgrade, offering lower weight and better overall grip then the 275s. 255mm is also a perfect match for my 9.5" rims according too the michelin tire guide.
I took a quick measure on camber, as that can have a massive effect on acceleration grip - But there was only 1 degree front and rear, so thats not the problem. After the new bushings are installed Ill do an alignment, but unless the rear toe is massive toe out, that wont fix anything.
PS the picture is at an angle, the camber is 1 degree.
Definitely get new tires and the alignment done before casting judgment on anything else. My SC was seriously terrifying in standing water on the highway with worn tires and a funky alignment. It felt like it wanted to go into a full spin in either direction at any moment... Once those items were addressed, it felt like any other car with regards to hydroplaning, i.e. predictable.
Looking at the header install, It looks like the AC pump needs to be removed. So if that thing is going out, it will not come back in! So Im researching what belt I need if i remove it, but its not easy to find any good info. Im also considering to remove the hydrofan while Im at it, but Im not sure if I can find the time to do it.
If you look at this picture below, I plan to route the new belt from the idle pulley under the coil and then directly down to the crank pulley. I cant find anyone who has documented this before, so I guess Ill need to remove the hydrofan-pump and AC, then measure how long the new belt needs to be and order one.
Ill need to program an output from the MS ECU and pull a wire to a relay for an electrical cooling fan. I guess there is a couple of ponies to be free`d up from removing the hydrofan pump.
Question: Does anyone know the length or a part number for AC removal with or without the hydrofan?
To answer my own question after hours of searching, I found a gates part # on a supra forum - 6PK1600. This should be the correct belt without AC with an LS400idle pulley. Hopefully toyota used the same size for the LS400 idle pulley as the hydropump. I had to order it and Ill have it by tomorrow, well see if it fits then. So I guess Im ready for my header install! Im going to start with replacing my stock rear mufflers with some 2.5" high flow mufflers. Im hoping it will not be to loud with the new setup.
Here's a picture that might help you with the AC and fan pump removal. When I bought the motor I pulled the guts out of the fan pump and made a custom bearing setup and put the pulley back on as I wanted to keep the AC compressor. After the bearing failed I made a cover plate as seen in the picture and just used a shorter belt (unsure what size). The cover plate was easy, quick and cheap and works well.
Im sad to say almost all my time is now going to my new business. The good news is we will soon release our product (it will even be announced here at clublexus), and that will hopefully free some time on my schedule.
So the last week here is what I have done:
My supra calippers are now red!
And my Supra rotors and pads have arrived!
But then I found that my calippers are not from a Supra at all, but from a LS400 So now I need to sell these and get some LS400 brakes. Black diamond rotors and pads are already on the way from the UK, so hopefuly Ill have them by next weekend.
Next weekend Im going for a 1/8 mile event. There is no time for headers and a tune, so Ill just need to drive it like it is. It will be fun, but those 20+ extra hp would really shine next weekend...
I just booked the local dyno for an apointment next week. I wont have time for the headers any time soon, so I will tune it as it is and at least not worry about the state of the tune for the next couple of months.
There is a bonus in this - I have never seen a proper test of how much power headers can make. This should be great news to everyone but except my wallet as this will document how much a aftermarket EFI can add on a 1UZ and how much more PPE headers will make on an already tuned car.
The tune will be simply a spark hook test and some VE tuning. Then I will see if I can get some extra power from leaning the mixture a little from the 12.5/12.6 I have now.
Then once the headers are on sometime later in the summer, Ill hit the dyno again too measure the difference.
04-09-15, 01:33 PM
I had to be careful at corner exit, but mid turn was the biggest problem really. 
So now I need to sell these and get some LS400 brakes. Black diamond rotors and pads are already on the way from the UK, so hopefuly Ill have them by next weekend. 
