Kahn's USDM 2JZGTE swap thread (aka The "Not Easy" Way)
06-27-16, 08:36 AM
#226
that Tee piece is a custom piece that used to come with the XS power turbo kits, there is no part number or anything like that, have no idea if you can even buy them anymore...
the 7mgte clutch should hold stock 2jzgte power, at least enough to hold you over.
or you can keep the stock 7m PP and throw a southbound disk in there and it should hold BPU power even with a good pedal feel, but those discs are expensive you might be able to get a whole clutch package from them for a little more with a little more clamping force on the PP.
the 7mgte clutch should hold stock 2jzgte power, at least enough to hold you over.
or you can keep the stock 7m PP and throw a southbound disk in there and it should hold BPU power even with a good pedal feel, but those discs are expensive you might be able to get a whole clutch package from them for a little more with a little more clamping force on the PP.
06-27-16, 09:19 AM
#227
Sorry, I didn't mean to have you re-list all the NA-T steps. I was focused on the rebuild of the engine itself as your head gasket went bad and I will be replacing mine. As you never do anything half way, I was interested in the parts you are going to end up replacing while doing the job. Never done a head gasket replacement myself before, so was not exactly sure what all I should replace while I was at it.
As to 1j vs NA-T cost, I have no clue as I never considered 1j. While my build thread has been silent for months, I have been collecting the needed parts and hit the 10k on the project mark last week, and that does not include needed engine internals, so yeah, it's expensive no matter how you look at it, and this is what I consider a mid-level build. I did seriously consider going your route with the gte head, but figured that would add another 3-5k to the project to do it right.
As to 1j vs NA-T cost, I have no clue as I never considered 1j. While my build thread has been silent for months, I have been collecting the needed parts and hit the 10k on the project mark last week, and that does not include needed engine internals, so yeah, it's expensive no matter how you look at it, and this is what I consider a mid-level build. I did seriously consider going your route with the gte head, but figured that would add another 3-5k to the project to do it right.
06-27-16, 12:52 PM
#228
that Tee piece is a custom piece that used to come with the XS power turbo kits, there is no part number or anything like that, have no idea if you can even buy them anymore...
the 7mgte clutch should hold stock 2jzgte power, at least enough to hold you over.
or you can keep the stock 7m PP and throw a southbound disk in there and it should hold BPU power even with a good pedal feel, but those discs are expensive you might be able to get a whole clutch package from them for a little more with a little more clamping force on the PP.
the 7mgte clutch should hold stock 2jzgte power, at least enough to hold you over.
or you can keep the stock 7m PP and throw a southbound disk in there and it should hold BPU power even with a good pedal feel, but those discs are expensive you might be able to get a whole clutch package from them for a little more with a little more clamping force on the PP.
I had earmarked this feed line from Driftmotion but I am not sure it's the idea fitting type or even long enough to go around the block without stretching.
http://www.driftmotion.com/Single-Tu...e-p/dm2051.htm
...
Good to know the 7MGTE clutch will probably work for a while. That's close to what I think I'd heard before. Whenever the GTE setup finally gets bolted and wired in and turned on I will not even be doing so much as a BCC fuel cut delimiter right away-- just stock power. I figure I should also get used to that difference alone over stock.
What's crazy to me (and it shows how little I understand about clutch disc friction materials) is that the stock 7MGTE disc can hold more power. It's the pressure plate that needs upgrading. Driftmotion actually sells a similar type of kit with a stock 7M/1JZ disc and aftermarket PP which is rated for more power.
My upgrade plan was always to use a Southbend Stage 2 R154 clutch kit rated for 365ft-lbs. A SB stage 3 kit could follow later but theirs get exponentially pricier as the max torque rating rises. Still, I've heard the best about their clutch kits and I want to preserve a lot of OEM pedal feel especially since this is a car that gets driven all the time and in some traffic.
06-27-16, 01:31 PM
#229
Sorry, I didn't mean to have you re-list all the NA-T steps. I was focused on the rebuild of the engine itself as your head gasket went bad and I will be replacing mine. As you never do anything half way, I was interested in the parts you are going to end up replacing while doing the job. Never done a head gasket replacement myself before, so was not exactly sure what all I should replace while I was at it.
But... just remember that I haven't replaced a head gasket yet either and my approach to this has been and still is to future-proof as much as possible so I may in fact be doing quite a bit more than is necessary just to be on the safe side (including not driving my car even before it exhibits outward symptoms of head gasket failure).
For instance, the water pump isn't really needed to complete a timing belt replacement job. I learned to replace water pumps every 120K at least and it doesn't hurt to do it every 60K *with* the belt service. I learned to do this practice years ago with my Honda Prelude with an H22A engine and have done the same with my 2JZ-GE.
The accessory belt tensioner isn't required either but at my mileage it might be getting close to needing replacement. I'm just reticent to use the brand new GTE M/T accessory belt tensioner I already have unless I really need it right now.
A brand new harmonic balancer isn't required for this even though it will come off to replace the timing belt... however... since mine has never been replaced and we should all be aware that they can and do go out eventually above 200K miles I will be having a new one installed. I already have that on standby as well.
Technically even a very new timing belt does not need to be replaced just to do a head gasket replacement even though it does come off for the job. My timing belt was going to be due for replacement in less than 9,000 miles anyway so it makes sense in my case.
The oil pump does not need to be replaced just to do the head gasket but I am going to do this because A) Gerry and Ali recommended it, B) I am paranoid and know it's an old 241K mile pump, and C) for my kind of swap/conversion I do need the crank sensor mounting provision for the GTE ECU and wiring harness. Plus this VVT-i GE pump does have the mounting point for the 6-speed M/T accessory tensioner belt shock absorber system which I will be using.
Same for tapping the oil pan for the turbo drain. Not needed just for the repair and it will be a bit extra to factor in but if that pan needs to come off... I'm getting it done, putting on a generic -10AN drain plug with the OEM studs and OEM gasket and I will put a generic -10AN cap on it for now.
Now the rest of what has been discussed above... yes, most of that is needed. Anything that gets removed to get the head off and back on again should have new gaskets (or FIPG where required). Valve cover gaskets for instance. I did those not long ago on my car but will just replace them now. Factory intake manifold gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets should be replaced, etc. Buy a few tubes of Toyota FIPG to have on hand. ARP head studs with OEM head washers also. I did ask if this was necessary versus getting the stock bolts since I would not be doing the work myself but that also seems to be a no-brainer as everyone has confirmed.
The thing I do not wish to get into is any work on replacing crank/main bearings, thrust bearings and rod bearings in my case. I'd like to believe I am okay on that front and I don't think I need to worry about it from what everyone has told me-- so long as I fix the head gasket issue and cycle oil changes much more frequently for a bit to flush out particulates.
I will get another block to start or rebuild from zero regardless but not right now and probably in Florida since that's the easiest way for me to do it even though I'd only be able to access it when visiting. I guess I'd either have to look at shipping the block here to a shop or drive my car back for a future installation in the garage.
One point does stand out to me whether you are building an NA-T, swapping in a stock GTE engine or building a GTE engine like my swap: better to have the engine out of the car for all of this once you are ready. Hence a garage space, cherry picker, engine stand and lack of (much) time pressure for you to solve issues before reinstallation.
Even with a complete GTE engine that you bought from an importer you still want to do all major maintenance on the engine stand: oil pump, timing belt kit, water pump, thermostat, cam seals, various wear seals near moving parts, valve cover gaskets, turbo rebuild or replacement, etc.
As Gerry mentioned a few posts back, gathering all the right parts for your build is the easy part.
As to 1j vs NA-T cost, I have no clue as I never considered 1j. While my build thread has been silent for months, I have been collecting the needed parts and hit the 10k on the project mark last week, and that does not include needed engine internals, so yeah, it's expensive no matter how you look at it, and this is what I consider a mid-level build. I did seriously consider going your route with the gte head, but figured that would add another 3-5k to the project to do it right.
1JZ-GTE VVT-i engines (or the older twin turbo 1JZ's) are still out there for $1700-$3500 complete. Of course they still need service plus harness conversion (or an M/T ECU if you have a manual transmission) and an intercooler kit, etc.
Costs will add up for those as well. The amazing thing about this engine family is that we do have these choices. There are advantages and disadvantages to each GTE engine as well as NA-T conversions but those pros and cons generally seem to become less clear as the horsepower build goal rises. Eventually displacement will get in the way of maximum potential (2.5L 1JZ vs 3.0L 2JZ or 3.2L/3.4L 2JZ stroker) but not at the modest power levels we're talking about. Although the torque differences between a 1JZ and any 2JZ seem to be pretty consistent from what I understand even as impressive as the 1JZ can be when set up right (VVT model especially)
However even Supra TT owners generally begin spending NA-T money for custom parts once they begin to approach 500whp anyway. That's why there is so much overlap in cost and the look of all these custom parts when you compare NA-T JZ vehicles to really high horsepower xJZ-GTE engines.
There isn't a truly "cheap" way to do it right as far I've learned. But with modest power goals in mind you can spend within a budget.
I still exclude my approach from reason, however, but that is due to the regulations in CA being nearly inflexible. Nearly but not entirely, otherwise I'd have to source a used USDM GTE short block as well and the BAR has confirmed to me twice that as long as the compression ratio is as close to 8.5:1 as possible I can use an NA block.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-27-16 at 02:03 PM.
06-27-16, 02:18 PM
#230
Thank you Ali! Hmm. Well I am going to keep looking then. First order is to find the BPST to whatever fitting is needed for a single oil pressure sensor. But my plan is to be able to split that connection for both twin turbo oil feed and a single pressure sensor.
I had earmarked this feed line from Driftmotion but I am not sure it's the idea fitting type or even long enough to go around the block without stretching.
http://www.driftmotion.com/Single-Tu...e-p/dm2051.htm
...
Good to know the 7MGTE clutch will probably work for a while. That's close to what I think I'd heard before. Whenever the GTE setup finally gets bolted and wired in and turned on I will not even be doing so much as a BCC fuel cut delimiter right away-- just stock power. I figure I should also get used to that difference alone over stock.
What's crazy to me (and it shows how little I understand about clutch disc friction materials) is that the stock 7MGTE disc can hold more power. It's the pressure plate that needs upgrading. Driftmotion actually sells a similar type of kit with a stock 7M/1JZ disc and aftermarket PP which is rated for more power.
My upgrade plan was always to use a Southbend Stage 2 R154 clutch kit rated for 365ft-lbs. A SB stage 3 kit could follow later but theirs get exponentially pricier as the max torque rating rises. Still, I've heard the best about their clutch kits and I want to preserve a lot of OEM pedal feel especially since this is a car that gets driven all the time and in some traffic.
I had earmarked this feed line from Driftmotion but I am not sure it's the idea fitting type or even long enough to go around the block without stretching.
http://www.driftmotion.com/Single-Tu...e-p/dm2051.htm
...
Good to know the 7MGTE clutch will probably work for a while. That's close to what I think I'd heard before. Whenever the GTE setup finally gets bolted and wired in and turned on I will not even be doing so much as a BCC fuel cut delimiter right away-- just stock power. I figure I should also get used to that difference alone over stock.
What's crazy to me (and it shows how little I understand about clutch disc friction materials) is that the stock 7MGTE disc can hold more power. It's the pressure plate that needs upgrading. Driftmotion actually sells a similar type of kit with a stock 7M/1JZ disc and aftermarket PP which is rated for more power.
My upgrade plan was always to use a Southbend Stage 2 R154 clutch kit rated for 365ft-lbs. A SB stage 3 kit could follow later but theirs get exponentially pricier as the max torque rating rises. Still, I've heard the best about their clutch kits and I want to preserve a lot of OEM pedal feel especially since this is a car that gets driven all the time and in some traffic.
I order my lines from ATP turbo just cause they have a lot of selection for different sizes and you can choose what degree ends you want and prices aren't too crazy for custom stuff.
I dont know how it connects to the stock twins, cause that is for a single turbo that would have a AN fiting on the top, I would imagine you will need some sort of AN fitting to whatever the stock oil feed line plugs into the turbo is. there was a thread on supraforums n/a section about going na-t with a gte head but not sure if its detailed in there or not about the oil lines, it was quite a long one last time I combed through it many moons ago.
On the clutch there are 2 schools of thought, more clamping pressure, or better clutch material, both increase torque capacity.
The more clamping you go though, the worse the pedal feel, but I think on the r154 the higher clamping PP isnt as bad on the pedal vs the higher clamping w58 PP, just due to design on the push vs pull thing. Still there is a tradeoff, but you could do it ether way. southbend has options that let you keep more of the stock pedal feel, or if a little stiffer doesn't bother you just get the conventional disc with the higher clamping PP, but maybe go with something that would hold 400-500 toque at least, cause you dont want it slipping when you get a boost controller. just my .02c
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-27-16 at 02:23 PM.
06-27-16, 10:58 PM
#231
That is just a 2 foot feed line with 4an ends one straight one 90. This would work if you had a turbo block where oil feed is on the passenger side... but coming from the other side of the motor on an n/a, I would grab more like a 4 foot line to be able to route it neatly.
I order my lines from ATP turbo just cause they have a lot of selection for different sizes and you can choose what degree ends you want and prices aren't too crazy for custom stuff.
I order my lines from ATP turbo just cause they have a lot of selection for different sizes and you can choose what degree ends you want and prices aren't too crazy for custom stuff.
I dont know how it connects to the stock twins, cause that is for a single turbo that would have a AN fiting on the top, I would imagine you will need some sort of AN fitting to whatever the stock oil feed line plugs into the turbo is. there was a thread on supraforums n/a section about going na-t with a gte head but not sure if its detailed in there or not about the oil lines, it was quite a long one last time I combed through it many moons ago.
I'm also inclined to send Stu Hagen a PM on Supraforums to ask him since he must have used a GE block with one of his hybrid twin setups by now. Or Jared at SpeedForSale since they sell the hybrid twin kits and I am pretty sure an upgraded oil feed line is part of the package. It can't be uncovered ground in 2016... just seldom covered ground since people love single turbo setups.
And that article is SupraTico's. Dates back to 2004 I think. I've read it before too but I couldn't find it in a search today. I'll keep looking. As I recall he did the entire GTE head swap onto a GE block with all the factory components but he finally deviated from stock with a single turbo and downpipe setup. The rest, however, was a full GTE head conversion.
On the clutch there are 2 schools of thought, more clamping pressure, or better clutch material, both increase torque capacity.
The more clamping you go though, the worse the pedal feel, but I think on the r154 the higher clamping PP isnt as bad on the pedal vs the higher clamping w58 PP, just due to design on the push vs pull thing. Still there is a tradeoff, but you could do it ether way. southbend has options that let you keep more of the stock pedal feel, or if a little stiffer doesn't bother you just get the conventional disc with the higher clamping PP, but maybe go with something that would hold 400-500 toque at least, cause you dont want it slipping when you get a boost controller. just my .02c
The more clamping you go though, the worse the pedal feel, but I think on the r154 the higher clamping PP isnt as bad on the pedal vs the higher clamping w58 PP, just due to design on the push vs pull thing. Still there is a tradeoff, but you could do it ether way. southbend has options that let you keep more of the stock pedal feel, or if a little stiffer doesn't bother you just get the conventional disc with the higher clamping PP, but maybe go with something that would hold 400-500 toque at least, cause you dont want it slipping when you get a boost controller. just my .02c
I would like to avoid excessive heavy pedal pressure. The SB Stage 2 and Stage 3 kits are supposed to do that for low power applications. In a pinch I'll gladly use Driftmotion's Stage 2 R154 clutch kit if it's cheaper.
I agree that a much stronger clutch would be ideal. Later on I will use a boost controller and BCC. From the very start, however I plan to keep the engine at stock boost for a good while.
...
And I've been thinking. I'm still holding off a bit longer on ordering parts for the repair.
I am going to take the USDM GTE head, valve covers, USDM GTE cams (which showed up in the mail without much protective packaging a couple of years back), the entire original valvetrain and ALL the small parts I've acquired for that section of the engine... all of that I am going to take in to FSR Motorsports to have them do a preliminary inspection. This is not very expensive as per the quote they gave me a while back ($100).
I am also going to pull out the USDM GTE intake manifold side and attempt to repair the screw-in vacuum port that the previous seller messed up the threads on (the vacuum fitting only goes in halfway).
Will also clean out the manifold's EGR port, clean the GTE valve covers up with Simple Green and a scrubbing brush, clean up both used TT EGR valves I have and I may also take my GTE ECU in to Driftmotion to have them do a repair on it. They seem to do a lot of GTE computers and Tanin says they haven't worked on them before and Driftmotion is also a couple of doors away from FSR Motorsports.
...And lastly I am going to pull out the 6-speed engine harness and give that a look. I still have no extra 1992-1994 SC body plugs but perhaps this is a good time to at least attempt to take up Gerry's challenge to work on it myself.
While I am no electrical engineer I am not a stranger to soldering and electrical work and small electronics. I have had some recent practice by creating my own OEM Pioneer stereo patch harness and some clean auxiliary 12V harness work to my center dash.
It's not going to hurt to wait a bit longer and evaluate all these things before I repair my car to stock again.
To recap, all that is left to convert over on my SC300 chassis is:
The TT PS reservoir kit (which I have), the TT Denso pump and TT Fuel ECU (I have the TT pump kit and two used TT Denso fuel ECUs) and fitting the 1996+ Soarer VVT-i intercooler shroud to the Soarer intercooler already installed in the fender with the inlet and exit ends blocked off. I've got the entire OEM intercooler piping kit as well (used) from both a Soarer and an MKIV TT. The radiator is a TT Koyo and I even have the TT auxiliary A/C fan bolted in.
And if you count it, the 4.27 LSD rear would still need to be swapped out and rebuilt back to 3.77. Though I am sure a 3.92 diff would not be hard to come by in the interim.
That mystery metal plate I posted a picture of on page 15, post #221 that goes behind the TT coolant bypass pipe on the rear of the engine is the only mystery part I have left.
...
The twin turbochargers are the only thing I can't budget in at this time. Driftmotion quoted me about $1100 to rebuild both of them.
I have wondered about fitting the cheapest used working T4 (or other) turbo onto the engine if it would be cheap for the short term. However I'd probably spend close to $500 on that anyway.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-28-16 at 12:59 AM.
06-28-16, 11:47 AM
#234
CatManD3W-- Ah. So this just goes further to not bothering to open the GE head at all? 
Ali-- Legally? No, absolutely not ;D They still want to see the same discontnued twin turbos or at least the JDM versions with a cat welded on (Vigman proved that was possible too). The only reason I considered it is simply cost. A T4 GTE manifold is about $200 from DM. After that, how much is a common used old working T4 turbo? I've seen one for $100. But then there is the piping to the factory exhaust.
Cost for cost it's probably better to just take longer rebuild the twins from the start or find a better working set. Mine work but are on the edge I'd think with a little shaft play (150K).
Anyway, first order is to have the GTE head, valvetrain, parts and cams inspected. At least that much will tell me if one of the most important sections of the build is good to go for a rebuild. Then I'll check the rest.
It's still very possible and probable I repair to stock for now. I just think I should go over what I have first before doing anything.
Ali-- Legally? No, absolutely not ;D They still want to see the same discontnued twin turbos or at least the JDM versions with a cat welded on (Vigman proved that was possible too). The only reason I considered it is simply cost. A T4 GTE manifold is about $200 from DM. After that, how much is a common used old working T4 turbo? I've seen one for $100. But then there is the piping to the factory exhaust.
Cost for cost it's probably better to just take longer rebuild the twins from the start or find a better working set. Mine work but are on the edge I'd think with a little shaft play (150K).
Anyway, first order is to have the GTE head, valvetrain, parts and cams inspected. At least that much will tell me if one of the most important sections of the build is good to go for a rebuild. Then I'll check the rest.
It's still very possible and probable I repair to stock for now. I just think I should go over what I have first before doing anything.
06-28-16, 12:57 PM
#236
Ali, as it stands I still haven't driven or even turned the car on since the 9th. I'm now in a good spot to repair the head gasket issue but I haven't pulled the trigger just yet.
Painful for me too. The plan was to have the rest of the GTE parts sorted by end of this year. Actually before the smog trouble the plan was to have the parts sorted by right around this time and then then figure out what block I would use.
The car has more or less forced the issue, so I've been reluctant to just go and repair it immediately as I have done countless times in the past.
Actually my biggest concern is the health of the original short block. Although I only have the Blackstone reports and a little minor sludge in the GE cam galley to give me concern.
The reason why I want to get the GTE head inspected is because if any additional service is needed to the GE head that in any way approaches the cost of a rebuild... you can guess which head wil be bolted on to the engine. After the new oil pump of course.
Painful for me too. The plan was to have the rest of the GTE parts sorted by end of this year. Actually before the smog trouble the plan was to have the parts sorted by right around this time and then then figure out what block I would use.
The car has more or less forced the issue, so I've been reluctant to just go and repair it immediately as I have done countless times in the past.
Actually my biggest concern is the health of the original short block. Although I only have the Blackstone reports and a little minor sludge in the GE cam galley to give me concern.
The reason why I want to get the GTE head inspected is because if any additional service is needed to the GE head that in any way approaches the cost of a rebuild... you can guess which head wil be bolted on to the engine. After the new oil pump of course.
06-28-16, 01:22 PM
#237
its a tough situation, if you can get close to all the parts, I would lean towards just going for the gte head swap.
the double labor alone you could probably buy a cheap corolla in the meantime and sell it when done for the same amount.
But then again I often take on projects that seem to take longer than intended so yeah take that with a grain of salt.
the double labor alone you could probably buy a cheap corolla in the meantime and sell it when done for the same amount.
But then again I often take on projects that seem to take longer than intended so yeah take that with a grain of salt.
06-28-16, 08:45 PM
#238
^^ I have seriously considered this. Or a Paseo, Tercel or other tiny Toyota... but I'd really prefer to just repair the car as is... or in GTE form. It would have to be a very, very mechanically sound cheap used car.
I'm currently prepared to repair the 2JZ-GE tomorrow if I have to. I need a couple of things and the GE head gasket and ARP studs but otherwise I'm set for that.
I saw the last posts in this thread today: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...soarer-38.html
And that's more or less what's holding me back at the moment. Whether I throw a bunch of cash to repairing the GE setup right now or wait just a bit longer to get the last few GTE parts I need and do it that way I don't want to suddenly have an issue with the rotating assembly or piston rings.
I don't want to be paranoid and believe there are issues that aren't actually there but especially if I repaired the stock engine as is... such a scenario would be a total waste of money even on top of the waste of ripping it all out again to convert to GTE later.
I am considering either having the block pulled to replace crank bearings, rod bearings and piston rings... or just replacing the block entirely with a used one as suggested.
And with that, I am still very much in agreement with you and Gerry that a swap will always have a few initial unforseen issues.
I'm contacting FSR tonight via email to see if a basic inspection of the GTE head, cams and other parts can be scheduled in with them. That's not expensive to do. A good friend who needs a turbo for his Benz looked at by them will be joining me.
I'm currently prepared to repair the 2JZ-GE tomorrow if I have to. I need a couple of things and the GE head gasket and ARP studs but otherwise I'm set for that.
I saw the last posts in this thread today: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...soarer-38.html
And that's more or less what's holding me back at the moment. Whether I throw a bunch of cash to repairing the GE setup right now or wait just a bit longer to get the last few GTE parts I need and do it that way I don't want to suddenly have an issue with the rotating assembly or piston rings.
I don't want to be paranoid and believe there are issues that aren't actually there but especially if I repaired the stock engine as is... such a scenario would be a total waste of money even on top of the waste of ripping it all out again to convert to GTE later.
I am considering either having the block pulled to replace crank bearings, rod bearings and piston rings... or just replacing the block entirely with a used one as suggested.
And with that, I am still very much in agreement with you and Gerry that a swap will always have a few initial unforseen issues.
I'm contacting FSR tonight via email to see if a basic inspection of the GTE head, cams and other parts can be scheduled in with them. That's not expensive to do. A good friend who needs a turbo for his Benz looked at by them will be joining me.
06-30-16, 01:12 AM
#239
Some research today:
I've called around for machine shop recommendations and I dug into my service notes to figure out just when the head gasket issue may have actually begun.
I believe I've pinpointed it to 238,895 miles or just before that mileage. That would have been on 3/16/2016. This is the same day I replaced my 2JZ-GE IACV as per my service records.
If I had to guess, it would have been when I thought I had sludge in my engine oil which I posted here but dismissed the next day as an anomaly:
Page 9, Post #126 of the thread linked below
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9394292
I didn't run up that much mileage between the oil sample that showed good condition on September 6th, 2015 and the oil sample that showed coolant contamination on May 13th, 2016 due to all the ongoing smog repairs. That was only a 3,294 mile oil change interval.
Further, between the first contaminated sample taken at 240,562 miles and the time I first noted the "sludge" oil when inspecting under my valve cover oil cap at 238,895 miles, plus the 348 miles I had driven by the time I actually got the alert by phone, plus 1-2 more miles since I stopped driving the car... the engine can't have had this condition for more than 2,017 miles.
Though I'm not sure if that makes much difference concerning the health of the short block I feel that is the closest indicator I have of when this may have started.
To recap, the car has been sitting for the last couple of weeks with 240,912 on the odometer and the engine has not so much as been started.
I have more reading to do tomorrow. Calling it quits for the evening.
I've called around for machine shop recommendations and I dug into my service notes to figure out just when the head gasket issue may have actually begun.
I believe I've pinpointed it to 238,895 miles or just before that mileage. That would have been on 3/16/2016. This is the same day I replaced my 2JZ-GE IACV as per my service records.
If I had to guess, it would have been when I thought I had sludge in my engine oil which I posted here but dismissed the next day as an anomaly:
Page 9, Post #126 of the thread linked below
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9394292
I didn't run up that much mileage between the oil sample that showed good condition on September 6th, 2015 and the oil sample that showed coolant contamination on May 13th, 2016 due to all the ongoing smog repairs. That was only a 3,294 mile oil change interval.
Further, between the first contaminated sample taken at 240,562 miles and the time I first noted the "sludge" oil when inspecting under my valve cover oil cap at 238,895 miles, plus the 348 miles I had driven by the time I actually got the alert by phone, plus 1-2 more miles since I stopped driving the car... the engine can't have had this condition for more than 2,017 miles.
Though I'm not sure if that makes much difference concerning the health of the short block I feel that is the closest indicator I have of when this may have started.
To recap, the car has been sitting for the last couple of weeks with 240,912 on the odometer and the engine has not so much as been started.
I have more reading to do tomorrow. Calling it quits for the evening.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-30-16 at 08:58 AM. Reason: Grammatical fix
06-30-16, 05:09 AM
#240
Craig - getting work for that short block like rebuilding with new bearings and rehonning or probably machine shop work, etc ... wouldn't be cheap.
IF you are decided to get work done on that short block , IF I were you .... I might as well let them work on another short block with your GTE head stuff .. run the current engine till it konks out rather than spending all that money and still be stucked with your GE setup. I still firmly believe if your car's operating temperature are normal , that engine will give you still a lot of service miles. That minor coolant in the oil could have been caused by a lot of things ... not necessarily a bad head gasket .
As Ali said , you might as well get into that GTE head setup . So you continually use the car .. meanwhile what you are spending goes toward your long intended setup .
IF you are decided to get work done on that short block , IF I were you .... I might as well let them work on another short block with your GTE head stuff .. run the current engine till it konks out rather than spending all that money and still be stucked with your GE setup. I still firmly believe if your car's operating temperature are normal , that engine will give you still a lot of service miles. That minor coolant in the oil could have been caused by a lot of things ... not necessarily a bad head gasket .
As Ali said , you might as well get into that GTE head setup . So you continually use the car .. meanwhile what you are spending goes toward your long intended setup .