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Great update! I'll be doing many of the same things very soon that you are now tackling. One question I had in reference to you rebuilding your twin turbos with Driftmotion. I thought that you needed to have JDM turbos for the better "OEM" look built twins, and that the USDM turbos were more expensive to upgrade and could not make as much power. Is that accurate or am I remembering wrong? I know Speed For Sale had multiple offerings, and I only see the Aristo upgrade listed on Driftmotion's website: https://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-GTE-...e-p/dm1075.htm
Edit: It also sounds like you are rebuilding the factory shortblock back to OEM specs? How much money will you have into it after your new parts and machine shop labor? I am just curious how that compares to the cost of a 100% brand new Toyota shortblock.
Naval jelly is also a great rust dissolver that can be brushed on if you're impatient. That cardboard oven seems like a great idea. I'll have to give it a try the next time I paint parts.
The cardboard disposable oven is intriguing, isn't it? I'd never have thought something like that would work safely (or effectively) with mere tinfoil and a heat gun. Later I will give it a try also. Also possibly when baking old electronic boards that have lead-less solder that needs to be re-flowed. With a fire extinguisher present
Thank you Jim! Progress is slow but coming along. Likewise your '99 restoration project has blown me away-- beautiful! The amount of work you've gone into so far is a great showcase of how to do it right ;D I still have to get to the repaint phase of my SC down the road. Is a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i swap going to be the next big phase for your car?
a vvti gte will eventually be going in this car. I can't tell you how soon exactly, though. I won't talk specific numbers on here but let's just say you set aside $3,000 for an exterior project and when you were done with that exterior project you were over budget by 150%... it cuts into the rest of the project lol. But I must tell you that this car looks SO much better in person than in my pictures. So to me, it's worth it. It just sets my build back a little bit. But seeing builds like yours, Jerry's 8 or 9 builds (lol), talking with Dmitry about his build, looking at MikeF's build... it ALWAYS takes time. Just need to make my list and cross one thing off at a time!
Back to to your car since this is your thread... I'm blown away by your attention to detail. Seriously, your knowledge of this platform is unbelievable. You are an asset to this community and I thank you for that!
Great update! I'll be doing many of the same things very soon that you are now tackling. One question I had in reference to you rebuilding your twin turbos with Driftmotion. I thought that you needed to have JDM turbos for the better "OEM" look built twins, and that the USDM turbos were more expensive to upgrade and could not make as much power. Is that accurate or am I remembering wrong? I know Speed For Sale had multiple offerings, and I only see the Aristo upgrade listed on Driftmotion's website: https://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-GTE-...e-p/dm1075.htm
Thank you! I am glad that some of what I've put in the thread may help with your project.
You are mostly correct about the differences between the JDM and USDM 2JZGTE twin turbos.
Specifically the USDM versions have smaller impeller shafts than the JDM versions. Further, the JDM version shafts are very close in design to off the shelf Garrett GT28 impeller shafts. That is what makes them easier to upgrade to both standard steel GT28 compressor and exhaust wheels as well as STU Hybrid GT28 comp/exhaust wheels.
Comparatively the USDM 2JZGTE twins have a smaller impeller shaft that can accept standard GT28 replacement compressor wheels but the shaft housings and wheel housings require extra machining work to accept larger shafts that can accept STU GT28 Hybrid wheels. Consequently the upgrade costs a bit more to do on USDM versions.
This has been my understanding to date.
As to the ultimate power holding of either one... I'm not entirely sure. I know the USDM STU's can go up to 26psi or so easily and will handle 35psi (?) for short durations. At least I think those are the correct figures. I have heard that the full STU modified JDM sequential twins can be made to do at least that much on the reliable and extreme short-term ends and possibly *slightly* more but I am not sure to be honest.
The best resource to get the full facts on just how far either version of the STU modified sequential factory turbos can be pushed is the thread on Supraforums: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...Hybrid-GT28R-s
...Or by contacting Jared at SpeedForSale or Stu Hagen himself on SF.
It is true that Driftmotion only lists the JDM 2JZGTE twin turbos for rebuilds and I think this is due to how many customers eschew stock twins in favor of single turbos when they have a USDM Supra TT. Very few people build 100% factory USDM 2JZGTE's for swap cars as I am when starting from scratch as most people will just purchase an Aristo GTE engine set to begin with. I think those are the main reasons that they don't advertise work on USDM sequential twins.
I have asked Aaron (Driftmotion's owner) about this however and he told me that they could and would work on USDM twins for the standard style rebuild. I just figured they did not get much call for it and therefore don't advertise it. They get much more call for JDM twin rebuilds to replace the fragile/brittle ceramic compressor wheels with steel wheels. Same with 1JZGTE factory twin parallel turbos and 1JZGTE VVT-i CT15b factory single turbos.
Further, the upgrade spec that Stu Hagen and the SpeedForSale guys came up with is, I think, proprietary. Garrett Co. was involved through some of the design I think and so this is why at least the USDM version of the Hybrid GT28 upgrade appears to be offered only by SpeedForSale.
However a standard rebuild of the JDM or USDM versions with regular GT28 steel wheels seems to be fairly common at least among shops who work on these Toyota turbos.
For my purposes running one of these engines in near stock or BPU configuration on mostly 91-90 octane on stock boost to 15-16psi MAX with a full emissions system I really don't need the STU Hybrid upgrade. A standard rebuild will do. The intended use of my car is not to outdo anyone with 500whp+ but what a 2JZGTE with sequential turbos with a 3.76 will give me over the standard 2JZ-GE 180whp NA engine with a 4.27 rear end ratio will be massive in all driving situations.
Although for the extra expense that alone is supposed to add 50whp over your standard BPU-ish configuration. The custom SFS turbo manifold is also supposed to be better but for such a normal state of tune I am not sure that the OEM Toyota turbo manifold is a limitation. I'd love to do it even if it's underused but every single aspect of this build adds up and the standard/BPU configuration with easy maintenance direct from the manual appeals to me.
350-360whp isn't hugely impressive but it's pretty damn good in a standard road car with this kind of engine response
Originally Posted by mteele
Edit: It also sounds like you are rebuilding the factory shortblock back to OEM specs? How much money will you have into it after your new parts and machine shop labor? I am just curious how that compares to the cost of a 100% brand new Toyota shortblock.
How much money into the entire engine project or JUST the short block rebuild?
The GTE cylinder head rebuild ran me roughly $800 or so in parts and labor to bring it completely back to factory stock with used stock TT cams, new springs and retainers and only a couple of replaced valves and all new stem seals and some odds and ends.
The block rebuild... I'm not entirely sure what it will come to. The labor for just the lower end assembly only will not be too much but at this time I have no timeframe as to when the shop will complete the work. They are a very good shop but currently backlogged. Depending on where my situation is at I may need to bring it to another builder and reconsider the labor cost.
What I was not aware of at the time I bought the block was just how much I would have to be careful about piston to wall clearances with new stock bore 86mm pistons ( I still have no hard data on this in regards to my block at current time). I was not aware that new 2JZGTE short blocks sans cylinder heads could still be purchased. Titan Motorsports recently had them on sale for about $3,000 as new old stock. That might have been appealing several months ago due to the cylinder walls and pistons being 100% perfect and never used. I did hear a while back that some batch of 2JZGTE short blocks didn't have 100% correct bearing clearances or torque specs (one or the other) and that a double-check of each was recommended but this may have been just a rumor-- not sure. These are Toyota parts after all.
Nonetheless I have easily spent around the same amount to get all my parts together for a fully stock 2JZGTE engine down to the pistons and rings. Partly this is because it is the easiest with which to construct an emissions-compliant engine that will have piston wall wear in line with any other long-lasting Toyota 2JZ engine. Also this was due to knowing that I am not concerned with ever going over the standard limitations of around 500whp for the stock rods.
I don't put anywhere near average annual mileage on my SC but I still intend that the vehicle be driven anytime, anywhere, on any available fuel, in nearly every kind of weather other than snow and ice and with normal startup and cylinder wear characteristics for a long engine life.
But I have to admit that the best thing to do if you want a 100% stock 2JZGTE block that is brand new with zero cylinder wear well within the TSRM specs is to get one of the new old stock 2JZGTE short blocks. If I had $3k to spend right now just on this with no worries I would call up Titan Motorsports tomorrow and see if they still have any of them in stock.
Nonetheless I am happy with the block and parts that I have. Everything looks look and is in great shape. I have everything needed to have a good, reliable Toyota-stock engine. It just needs to be built. If swapping stock TT pistons and rods into an otherwise stock IS300 engine works for those owners then I know it will work for this engine too.
Also, I have never built an engine before this. I once almost build a Ford 302 for a classic Mustang but other life priorities got in the way at the time and I never got to learn firsthand. So my approaches with the short-block I do have are a combination of limitations on my time, location, workspace, budget and my wish to absolutely get it done right... even if I am not the one to do it. Under the right guidance step by step I would do it myself. I do have a 2JZGTE rebuild video on DVD that does help to orient me to this process but it's still something I'd rather not do the first time without the supervision of an expert.
Bottom line, the way I'm doing it might cost as much as a 2JZGTE short-block does at full MSRP (I'll see when it is fully assembled) but another way to do this entire swap is the way Vigman did his USDM Cali-legal conversion with his SC300 by starting with a full JDM Aristo engine, changing to a USDM GTE head and cams, keeping the JDM turbos with a little finesse (although it is better if you stick with USDMs for this in CA), adding the upstream cat, changing to the correct wiring harness and fitting in the EGR, evap, charcoal and other emission components. He basically started with a complete used engine that checked out and changed everything that was necessary on top of it.
Doing all of it piecemeal my way seemed like a good idea at the start to collect the necessary USDM GTE parts first but I really thought I would be able to fully convert my original 2JZ-GE engine for this. It was only after a few years of parts collecting that I finally realized it was easier to keep a JDM/USDM twin turbo system if I just used a GTE rather than GE block from the start. Also, as Gerry and Ali SC3 pointed out to me, at 244k miles on the original GE engine I'd really have to be sure it's got perfect compression before adding boost.
In all, this is still the silliest and least cost effective way to build a 350whp SC ;D But it is the way that makes it work in California.
ALL the other work I have done to my SC to restore it and upgrade it pales in comparison to building a completely stock USDM 2JZGTE from total scratch. Then again... while I have an engine in pieces it just makes sense to clean things up, repaint or re-coat certain parts, remove rust, go through all the components, etc.
Also, I just like the antique but interesting sequential twin turbo system since so few cars came with one. I know many people have already experienced one of these engines in standard trim but it's very unique to me and all of the study of EPC diagrams and parts layouts has given me an appreciation for how well it was designed in the first place. That doesn't give me a 700whp+ 2JZ car but it sure does give me a very special classic car with a vey unique and still quite powerful and responsive engine known as the Toyota 2JZGTE that is up there with all of the most legendary and tough high performance engines ever made.
a vvti gte will eventually be going in this car. I can't tell you how soon exactly, though. I won't talk specific numbers on here but let's just say you set aside $3,000 for an exterior project and when you were done with that exterior project you were over budget by 150%... it cuts into the rest of the project lol. But I must tell you that this car looks SO much better in person than in my pictures. So to me, it's worth it. It just sets my build back a little bit. But seeing builds like yours, Jerry's 8 or 9 builds (lol), talking with Dmitry about his build, looking at MikeF's build... it ALWAYS takes time. Just need to make my list and cross one thing off at a time!
Back to to your car since this is your thread... I'm blown away by your attention to detail. Seriously, your knowledge of this platform is unbelievable. You are an asset to this community and I thank you for that!
Believe me, I know EXACTLY how you feel. I'm already there. It's part of why this stage of converting my car has gone so slowly
I've 85% restored my SC and my original paint is good but I have not yet done a full repaint as you have done, Jim. It's such a beautiful transformation! I have no doubt that it looks more beautiful in person. I must ask-- do any of the other staff or customers at your Lexus dealer take notice of it?
My car is set up almost exactly the way I want it to be now with all the options I wanted from the beginning. It's just lacking in horsepower and torque. I took it was far as I could without touching the engine (other than regular maintenance). My engine build has been the longest and most expensive process. You will have plenty of work but still an easier time when you are ready to drop cash on a complete 2JZGTE VVT-i. It just doesn't hurt to inspect everything and go over any aspect of the engine that you question.
You're very kind but truly and honestly I am still not an expert on this platform or the engine design. I have learned bit by bit and still I am building to the original spec and not innovating new ideas and shared modifying techniques the way others are. I am humbly very happy that I can be of help. My feeling has always been that even if there are small DIY projects or explanations I will share and document what I learn so that the pool of knowledge sets and visual aids are added to. But believe me, I'm still learning.
I loved it when ClubLexus got its own dedicated image server a while back!! That is so important to preserve knowledge and information!!
Yes, all of these builds you've seen have the time factor in common. It always takes time and careful planning and in some cases waiting for this or that part. Or coming up with an unconventional solution when you have to innovate to make something work or find a more reasonable fix to an issue.
Yes, make a list! Make a couple of them: one for to-dos, another for parts and suppliers and yet another for any of the quotes, information and advice that pertains to your build. Organization and time management isn't just the way to do it... it's also the way to stay sane with one of these things!
I got a nice present in the mail today courtesy of Gerrb!
This is a 1997 SC300 Auto wiring harness that will cannibalized to convert my OBD1 Supra 6-speed harness. Also a spare middle timing cover that I have needed. Thanks Gerry!!
There isn't really that much to do other than to repair a couple of old connectors and wires on the 6-speed harness and to swap the MKIV body plugs for SC body plugs.
Pinouts for early SC's and late model SC's are different but the physical plugs themselves are the same, so mostly this will be de-pinning and carefully matching OBD1 SC body plug connections to each MKIV electrode/pin.
I'm no stranger to soldering, wiring and basic pinouts but engine harness work is still new territory for me. Every little pin will be tested against a connector diagram.
But seeing builds like yours, Jerry's 8 or 9 builds (lol), talking with Dmitry about his build, looking at MikeF's build... it ALWAYS takes time. Just need to make my list and cross one thing off at a time!
Need to go to McDonald or Burger King so I can apply to flip burgers to keep me busy always . I can't stand doing nothing during the day which makes me tinker always with a new project !
Originally Posted by KahnBB6
I got a nice present in the mail today courtesy of Gerrb!
This is a 1997 SC300 Auto wiring harness that will cannibalized to convert my OBD1 Supra 6-speed harness. Also a spare middle timing cover that I have needed. Thanks Gerry!!
Glad to be able to help Craig. You know am just a phone call away if you encounter problems in your wiring .
Glad to be able to help Craig. You know am just a phone call away if you encounter problems in your wiring .
Gerry, thank you!! I may do that soon once I get a basic handle on things. My work on the harness will be slow but I have so far made a little space to keep both harnesses together so I can chip away at the fixes and changes.
Actually the first things I am trying to nail down are the pinouts to have handy both written out and in visual form showing me what is on each body connector.
I have been looking through your harness thread again (FYI to newcomers: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...de-easy-6.html) and I know you've definitely covered everything but finding the first frame of reference is the difficult part for me.
Gerry, I know you have listed everything from the Aristo still but this is a bit more specific for me to get a handle on the Supra harness (which I hope is about the same on the body plugs from USDM to JDM). However in these links there are only ORANGE, one GREY and one WHITE body plug referenced. My harness has two different white body plugs after the firewall grommet so I am trying to identify the precise pinout for that in OBD1 6-speed wiring.
Now with the help of that one site above (http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/) I have been able to identify what all but one of the Supra harness plugs do. There is still the question of what the largest white connector does.
(picture of the large white body plug connector on Supra 6-speed harness)
On the 1997 SC300 Auto OBD2 harness (and by extension the information that I will need to compile for my car's 1993 SC300 M/T Cali-Spec OBD1 harness which I can't remove):
I have laid this out next to my 6-speed harness very much in the way you did in your thread pictures to get a basic understanding of the body plugs (not worried about the ECU connectors or harness lengths since both of my wiring harnesses are USDM LHD length).
This first step made it easier to begin thinking about it.
(1997 SC300 Auto OBD2 harness on the left... 1993.5-1995 Supra TT 6-speed M/T OBD1 harness on the right)
You can see the 1997 OBD2 SC300 Automatic harness ECU connectors and body plugs on the left... and the 1993.5-1995 OBD1 USDM Supra 6-speed harness ECU connectors and body plugs on the right. (Please note that the car this swap is going into is a 1993 OBD1 SC300 M/T Cali-Spec... so the parts I will use from the '97 SC3 Auto harness are just to convert it only and NOT for pinout references).
(1997 SC300 Automatic OBD2 harness body connectors and ECU connectors)
(1993.5-1995 Supra TT 6-speed M/T OBD1 harness body connectors and ECU connectors)
Now I know that I am looking at some extra wiring on this 1997 SC300 Auto harness for the OBD2 data port functions, TRAC traction control functions and A340E transmission control functions that do not apply to my 1993 SC300 M/T chassis.
Now also for comparison I found these that are supposedly for a 1993 SC300 M/T harness body plug pictures on ebay (SCFactory... the handle on this listing looked like it might be you-- if this is so then I hope you do not mind my reposting these for the sake of wiring discussion. If you wish for me to remove them I will. I was just desperate to have a frame of reference specifically for 1993 SC300 M/T harness wiring.)
Now the differences in what connectors are present are subtle but I can see a couple.
(two pictures of what should be a 1993 SC300 factory 5-speed (OBD1) harness. I assume non-Cali-Spec but I don't think this will make much difference concerning just body plugs).
The plan:
And so as you pointed out in your DIY harness thread, it does indeed help to have the specific pinout references for the car you plan to swap to. Of course with this harness what I am doing is purely cannibalizing connectors and maybe some wires in order to make my 6-speed harness compatible.
So that being the case I am now on the hunt for body plug pinouts specifically for the 1992-1994 SC300 chassis. Since my car has no TRAC or automatic transmission I will not be needing info for those but it might be nice to know just to correlate as best I can on the '97 Auto harness to know what I can avoid from the start.
I may well have missed such 92-94 pinout information in your thread Gerry. Apologies if I have. This is what I am looking for currently. I so have some SC300 electrical diagrams and connector listings from the shop manuals in PDF form as well as some other links to pinouts for the early SC300 body plugs... but...
Once I have both sets of pinout information in front of me with pictures of each plug and what each pin does (I don't mind printing plug pictures for each harness and copying down the pinout info for each myself to stay organized) then I will begin the process of dismantling the SC300 body plugs and filling the correct pin-ports with the 6-speed wiring.
I could, in the meantime, begin on some general repairs to the 6-speed harness since I have those parts already. I've already decided that anything that I add to this 6-speed harness that would need to be spliced will go through a patch harness I'll buy in the future. Even the Greddy BCC that I have.
.................
Edit: So far I've found this thread which primarily deals with converting to a 1JZGTE VVT-i engine (from a JZX Chaser or a JZZ30 Soarer) but which seems to have some body plug pinouts for a 1992 SC300. Some excel files I am not sure if they are accurate for my 1993 SC300 M/T model or not: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-pinout-2.html
Additionally I've been paging through the SC300 factory TSRM but since I have been using it as a general factory repair manual and not for wiring I am not sure if the wiring diagrams I have are for 1992-1994 SC300's or not.
Still looking...
Later Edit:
Looks like I may pay for a 24 hour window to use Toyota's own online technical manual database for this one. It's supposed to be $10/day for the lowest access tier. https://techinfo.toyota.com/
Going to church now Craig so I will talk to you later . I have all the SC300 / SC400 wiring and info from 1992 - 2000. Every thing or anything you need as reference or need to know about these cars . You don't need to go into the Toyota site. I know it is kinda overwhelming with the different harness you have now.... trying to get a starting point or how to tackle things. It is really simple. Just confusing to start with . Call me later , I will explain to you how to deal with what you have.
Just remember , the body plugs of the Toyota Supra MKIV are for the wirings / circuitries of the MKIV under that dashboard which is totally different from that of the SC. So not every wire on those MKIV body plugs will have a corresponding transfer to a wire in any of the body plug of the SC and vice versa.
Your starting point will be the body plugs of the SC .. grafting them into your 6 speed harness. But first , you will have to remember too , you have a manual trans so your 1997 SC300 harness has more wires than you actually need . You first need to move / remove wires & pins you don't need on your 1997 SC300 body plugs that are basically for an auto transmission. Unwrap both the MKIV and 1997 SC300 harnesses a foot or 2 from the connectors since tracing wires is what you want to do. You will move and remove some wires one at a time to make it really simple. I will talk to you later buddy.
Just an update here:
David had to get ready for smog, and he failed tail pipe emissions.... ( long story ) we did a compression test... #4 hole had 30 PSI ! and VERY little clearance on the #2 exhaust ( on that hole ) we re shimmed and did a drive way idle up to temp and a short EASY scoot... 50 psi... So he wanted to get the Drift Motion turbo upgrade anyway.. so off the head came ( AGAIN ) .. seat burned and leaking.... So the parts went in last week and MAYBE 2 weeks LTG till that's ll back.
So the car is in the driveway, front up on jack stands... Sad...
Kahn E mail me , I will be happy to share ALL our wiring doc's for our build.
Going to church now Craig so I will talk to you later . I have all the SC300 / SC400 wiring and info from 1992 - 2000. Every thing or anything you need as reference or need to know about these cars . You don't need to go into the Toyota site. I know it is kinda overwhelming with the different harness you have now.... trying to get a starting point or how to tackle things. It is really simple. Just confusing to start with . Call me later , I will explain to you how to deal with what you have.
Just remember , the body plugs of the Toyota Supra MKIV are for the wirings / circuitries of the MKIV under that dashboard which is totally different from that of the SC. So not every wire on those MKIV body plugs will have a corresponding transfer to a wire in any of the body plug of the SC and vice versa.
Your starting point will be the body plugs of the SC .. grafting them into your 6 speed harness. But first , you will have to remember too , you have a manual trans so your 1997 SC300 harness has more wires than you actually need . You first need to move / remove wires & pins you don't need on your 1997 SC300 body plugs that are basically for an auto transmission. Unwrap both the MKIV and 1997 SC300 harnesses a foot or 2 from the connectors since tracing wires is what you want to do. You will move and remove some wires one at a time to make it really simple. I will talk to you later buddy.
Thank you Gerry!!! I appreciate your call the other day to help me get situated with this. I got the TIS diagrams you sent but it is still a lot to take in so I will have to sit down and study the pertinent ones still. This week I am too pressed with work but probably next I can start looking each section over and compare that to Page 6 of your "2JZGTE Harness Made Easy" thread
Just an update here:
David had to get ready for smog, and he failed tail pipe emissions.... ( long story ) we did a compression test... #4 hole had 30 PSI ! and VERY little clearance on the #2 exhaust ( on that hole ) we re shimmed and did a drive way idle up to temp and a short EASY scoot... 50 psi... So he wanted to get the Drift Motion turbo upgrade anyway.. so off the head came ( AGAIN ) .. seat burned and leaking.... So the parts went in last week and MAYBE 2 weeks LTG till that's ll back.
So the car is in the driveway, front up on jack stands... Sad...
Kahn E mail me , I will be happy to share ALL our wiring doc's for our build.
Mike
Mike! Good to hear from you!
Is it not a bit early for the BAR'd SC300 to need an emissions test? Has it been that long already since it was first given that official swap sticker?
The compression on cyl #4 is extreme So you and David are having the cylinder head rebuilt as well as the turbos? At least with the turbos you will now be going to steel wheels and tossing the fragile, old ceramic wheels on those JDM twins. I hope you can get it back and running soon!
You are very kind to offer your notes! I know your harness is a bit different from mine (49-state emission OBD2 1998 TT 6-speed if I recall correctly?) but I know it will not be that different. Yes, I would love to have a look at your notes as well.
I am going to be teaching myself quite a bit in regards to harness wiring in the coming weeks.
Well, I did some thinking, pulled some strings and some big changes are coming, guys! I originally discarded this idea a while back as being totally unfeasible and with few upsides and benefits but now I think it's time: I'm going to install a used GM 2.0L LNF turbo 4-cyl with a factory performance tune. It even bolts right to my R154.
Not sure what I am going to do with all the parts I have so far but I'm sure I'll figure it out in the coming weeks.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 04-02-17 at 01:10 AM.
Reason: *April Fools ;)
So you're going from a 2jzgte to a 4 cylinder GM motor now? That's going to be interesting. Not sure what to think especially since you posted that on April Fools? Hmmm..... if serious, than definitely hats off for trying something new. Going to be interesting to see how it works out.
So you're going from a 2jzgte to a 4 cylinder GM motor now? That's going to be interesting. Not sure what to think especially since you posted that on April Fools? Hmmm..... if serious, than definitely hats off for trying something new. Going to be interesting to see how it works out.
It was completely an April Fools post In truth I did look up possibilities with that engine against an R154 (it does bolt right up) several years ago but I abandoned the idea.
Definitely just an April Fools joke The 2JZGTE swap will be finished.
03-13-17, 02:32 PM
I still have to get to the repaint phase of my SC down the road. Is a 2JZ-GTE VVT-i swap going to be the next big phase for your car?
So you and David are having the cylinder head rebuilt as well as the turbos? At least with the turbos you will now be going to steel wheels and tossing the fragile, old ceramic wheels on those JDM twins. I hope you can get it back and running soon!
