Kahn's USDM 2JZGTE swap thread (aka The "Not Easy" Way)
#46
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Well as always, more critical small parts come out of the woodwork: I realized I had no TT FPR VSV, TT EVAP VSV, or TT EBV VSV so I put all three on order.
I'm finding the emissions related VSVs are generally the most expensive or most likely to be out of production (even by Denso on the aftermarket). I guess that shouldn't be surprising.
....No, the sensors going out of production part is still very surprising. There are plenty of forgettable Toyotas no one will care about twenty years after they were new but the MKIV is not one of them and is a halo to the brand. It makes absolutely no sense at all. No sense that has any real value anyway.
I think now... possibly, maybe... I have finally exhausted any surprises like these adding to my master parts list.
I'm finding the emissions related VSVs are generally the most expensive or most likely to be out of production (even by Denso on the aftermarket). I guess that shouldn't be surprising.
....No, the sensors going out of production part is still very surprising. There are plenty of forgettable Toyotas no one will care about twenty years after they were new but the MKIV is not one of them and is a halo to the brand. It makes absolutely no sense at all. No sense that has any real value anyway.
I think now... possibly, maybe... I have finally exhausted any surprises like these adding to my master parts list.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-20-15 at 01:09 AM.
#47
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Kahn
HELP~
Do you have the turbos out on the bench? …
Is there a way to snap a series of Pix of how the actuator connects to the turbo?
We were having WEIRD boost issues.
If you FIREWALLED IT 5 lbs O boost MAX
BUT is you drove it " normally" and let the boost build to 5 PSI THEN fire walled it
10 lbs
So today we checked the actuator ( s ) and the forward one has a LEAK a BIG LEAK
So need PICTURES to see if we can pull it without replacing the turbo !!!
Monday is SMOG and we will roll the dice with what we have!
HELP~
Do you have the turbos out on the bench? …
Is there a way to snap a series of Pix of how the actuator connects to the turbo?
We were having WEIRD boost issues.
If you FIREWALLED IT 5 lbs O boost MAX
BUT is you drove it " normally" and let the boost build to 5 PSI THEN fire walled it
10 lbs
So today we checked the actuator ( s ) and the forward one has a LEAK a BIG LEAK
So need PICTURES to see if we can pull it without replacing the turbo !!!
Monday is SMOG and we will roll the dice with what we have!
#48
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Kahn
HELP~
Do you have the turbos out on the bench? …
Is there a way to snap a series of Pix of how the actuator connects to the turbo?
We were having WEIRD boost issues.
If you FIREWALLED IT 5 lbs O boost MAX
BUT is you drove it " normally" and let the boost build to 5 PSI THEN fire walled it
10 lbs
So today we checked the actuator ( s ) and the forward one has a LEAK a BIG LEAK
So need PICTURES to see if we can pull it without replacing the turbo !!!
Monday is SMOG and we will roll the dice with what we have!
HELP~
Do you have the turbos out on the bench? …
Is there a way to snap a series of Pix of how the actuator connects to the turbo?
We were having WEIRD boost issues.
If you FIREWALLED IT 5 lbs O boost MAX
BUT is you drove it " normally" and let the boost build to 5 PSI THEN fire walled it
10 lbs
So today we checked the actuator ( s ) and the forward one has a LEAK a BIG LEAK
So need PICTURES to see if we can pull it without replacing the turbo !!!
Monday is SMOG and we will roll the dice with what we have!
#49
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The mystery is how the actuator ( front turbo ) attaches to the turbo body and the linkage attaches to the internal flapper valve ( in the exhaust manifold ) >So in short can the actuator be replaced EASILY….
With yours and a Snap or two we can have the knowledge PRIOR to going in..
Thanks!
Mike
With yours and a Snap or two we can have the knowledge PRIOR to going in..
Thanks!
Mike
#50
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vigman,
I got back to you in your thread with pictures. I hope the CT20's aren't very different from my USDM CT12's. The only place I know of (so far) that looks after the entire turbo system and might source them is SpeedForSale. However JDM twins are so common it must be possible to find the actuator used if it can't be bought new.
After looking at my turbos and your diagram I must find out if I have the IACV actuator (not the IACV VSV which is different anywhere with my other parts. If not and the USDMs have that crucial component I have to find yet another rarity soon.
I got back to you in your thread with pictures. I hope the CT20's aren't very different from my USDM CT12's. The only place I know of (so far) that looks after the entire turbo system and might source them is SpeedForSale. However JDM twins are so common it must be possible to find the actuator used if it can't be bought new.
After looking at my turbos and your diagram I must find out if I have the IACV actuator (not the IACV VSV which is different anywhere with my other parts. If not and the USDMs have that crucial component I have to find yet another rarity soon.
#54
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iTrader: (3)
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This is a very VERY detailed build. For anyone stepping up to the plate and doing a build the right way. I would go over all of this. It looks scary at first sight but this is everything you need and more for a proper GTE build. Craig has helped me stay on track with buying the right parts and finding the right parts. He is basically spoon feeding us who are biting the bullet and swapping over. Great thread! Good luck with the build!
#55
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^^ Branden, that's kind of you to say, thank you!
I'm glad you're doing well with yours so far!
The primary reason for this thread is to document what it takes to recreate a smog legal swap.. or at the very least one that uses fully a reconditioned USDM twin turbo system. Several folks have done it in the past but there isn't a single repository for all the tiny little things needed to do this-- especially if passing smog is your goal. For me (and vigman) it's the only option. I think it's not for everyone because if you don't have a pressing need to go to this extreme there are several far less expensive ways to get 300whp-450whp from your SC.
For me it's become an exercise in restomodding/restoration with less emphasis on using the 2JZGTE to it's stratospheric potential and more emphasis on recreating the car as it should have been sold originally.
The update for now is waiting on parts I've ordered and making sure I have an IACV actuator in one of my bins. I've got a few more OEM parts to order and then two of the larger first stages can be focused on:
-Engine harness
-GTE head rebuild/reassembly
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The primary reason for this thread is to document what it takes to recreate a smog legal swap.. or at the very least one that uses fully a reconditioned USDM twin turbo system. Several folks have done it in the past but there isn't a single repository for all the tiny little things needed to do this-- especially if passing smog is your goal. For me (and vigman) it's the only option. I think it's not for everyone because if you don't have a pressing need to go to this extreme there are several far less expensive ways to get 300whp-450whp from your SC.
For me it's become an exercise in restomodding/restoration with less emphasis on using the 2JZGTE to it's stratospheric potential and more emphasis on recreating the car as it should have been sold originally.
The update for now is waiting on parts I've ordered and making sure I have an IACV actuator in one of my bins. I've got a few more OEM parts to order and then two of the larger first stages can be focused on:
-Engine harness
-GTE head rebuild/reassembly
#56
Rookie
iTrader: (3)
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"For me it's become an exercise in restomodding/restoration with less emphasis on using the 2JZGTE to it's stratospheric potential and more emphasis on recreating the car as it should have been sold originally."
I think so many of us tend to lean toward this. Our cars have so much potential that we feel lexus didn't reach nor wanted to recreate and depreciate from the great and might Supra. Other than that I give you kudos for going the extra mile.
I think so many of us tend to lean toward this. Our cars have so much potential that we feel lexus didn't reach nor wanted to recreate and depreciate from the great and might Supra. Other than that I give you kudos for going the extra mile.
#57
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^^ Yes, I agree with that too. Maybe we're seeing a tide of change in the majority of SC owners looking into restoring/restomodding with an appreciation for the factory looks. Lexus could have blown a lot of competition out of the water if they had just allowed the Soarer drivetrain to be sold in the USA version. Or maybe they felt that trim level would detract from Supra sales as you say... or maybe scare away their intended(?) target buyers. That last one is a lot like saying Nissan not offering the SR20DET engine in the USA spec 240SX would have scared away the intended target buyers for the Z32 300ZX Twin Turbo or that Honda's early generation Type R Civics weren't of interest to Americans.
...Which is all rubbish.
Anyway, thank you Branden!
More updates soon. vigman's visit to the BAR has been of much interest to me today.
...Which is all rubbish.
Anyway, thank you Branden!
More updates soon. vigman's visit to the BAR has been of much interest to me today.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-02-17 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Accuracy note
#58
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Just an FYI more states are winging about "AIR QUALITY" and they are talking about adopting California standards for their states http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_...sion_standards
So all the PEEPS who have JDM swaps MIGHT be in trouble later down the road where we will be , been there done that !
So all the PEEPS who have JDM swaps MIGHT be in trouble later down the road where we will be , been there done that !
#59
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^^ I've been reading about this almost since I bought my SC and while I hesitate to say they won't be as draconian as California, I think it's far more likely they will want to adopt the required emission *numbers* Cali wants for new cars, and possibly the OBD2 port scan procedure that doesn't use the roller dyno.
Why? Because Cali's 2001+ OBD2 scan method is a very cheap and cost effective means of determining if a car has emissions issues by using the car's computer itself. Cali already has an infrastructure of OBD1 and older roller dynos, tailpipe gas probes, etc. but this has been a lot of cost to smog station owners. Other states that have smog testing will likely adopt California's model and standards for OBD2 and newer cars but not so much for older cars because the investment for equipment in every station would make people balk. And many of them still support antique car status and might assume a 30 year rolling exemption as California once did.
Vigman, Cali's standards being adopted are a given certainly and especially for the newest cars but I'm not so sure about antique age cars.
Now the visual inspection we have here... several other states have that in their existing testing programs too but my understanding is that it is quite a bit more lax. Who can say on that one. We all know that not all but some "non-conforming" engines can be set up to pass and exceed the actual *emissions* test but fail miserably because something "looks wrong". I certainly hope that practice doesn't catch on.
It will happen but not in exactly the way California does it. It will vary state to state most likely. I'm still convinced this adoption of standards is more about 2001+ OBD2 vehicles.
Why? Because Cali's 2001+ OBD2 scan method is a very cheap and cost effective means of determining if a car has emissions issues by using the car's computer itself. Cali already has an infrastructure of OBD1 and older roller dynos, tailpipe gas probes, etc. but this has been a lot of cost to smog station owners. Other states that have smog testing will likely adopt California's model and standards for OBD2 and newer cars but not so much for older cars because the investment for equipment in every station would make people balk. And many of them still support antique car status and might assume a 30 year rolling exemption as California once did.
Vigman, Cali's standards being adopted are a given certainly and especially for the newest cars but I'm not so sure about antique age cars.
Now the visual inspection we have here... several other states have that in their existing testing programs too but my understanding is that it is quite a bit more lax. Who can say on that one. We all know that not all but some "non-conforming" engines can be set up to pass and exceed the actual *emissions* test but fail miserably because something "looks wrong". I certainly hope that practice doesn't catch on.
It will happen but not in exactly the way California does it. It will vary state to state most likely. I'm still convinced this adoption of standards is more about 2001+ OBD2 vehicles.
#60
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Picked up some small parts today: GTE water pump upper water neck gasket & O-Rings, a Vacuum T-splitter that I'll need several more of and two crucial hoses and four clamps for the EVAP VSV.
I also had to order a new set of HID ballasts from Phillips as my 4200K low beams have been reticent to turn on lately. Should be getting those today to repair the issue. Is four years a good lifespan for HID ballasts?
Soon as well I will have to tackle getting my A/C EVAP core and thermal expansion valve replaced and the system buttoned up and recharged. I have a center vent with a broken fin and a replacement section I should probably throw in at the same time.
And some revision to my VSV list. My plan is, since I have several used ones, to have a new VSV for each category as a backup in case of failure. Some of them are quite pricey while some are very cheap.
90910-12115 — Wastegate VSV — HAVE 1 USED
90910-12114 — IACV VSV — HAVE 1 USED
90910-12127 — EGCV VSV — HAVE 2 USED (A & B)
25860-46060 — EBV VSV — HAVE 1 USED & 1 NEW ORDERED
90910-12014 — FPR VSV — HAVE 1 USED BROKEN & 1 NEW ORDERED
90910-12175 — EVAP VSV — 1 NEW ORDERED
17630-46060 — EGR VSV — HAVE 1 USED
Then there is this one which came with my USDM twins but which doesn't immediately correspond to any category. I'm thinking it was superseded several years ago but curiously I was able to order a new one from Japan :/
—90910-12126B (HAVE, 1 broken, HAVE 1 new) -- Mystery VSV?
I also had to order a new set of HID ballasts from Phillips as my 4200K low beams have been reticent to turn on lately. Should be getting those today to repair the issue. Is four years a good lifespan for HID ballasts?
Soon as well I will have to tackle getting my A/C EVAP core and thermal expansion valve replaced and the system buttoned up and recharged. I have a center vent with a broken fin and a replacement section I should probably throw in at the same time.
And some revision to my VSV list. My plan is, since I have several used ones, to have a new VSV for each category as a backup in case of failure. Some of them are quite pricey while some are very cheap.
90910-12115 — Wastegate VSV — HAVE 1 USED
90910-12114 — IACV VSV — HAVE 1 USED
90910-12127 — EGCV VSV — HAVE 2 USED (A & B)
25860-46060 — EBV VSV — HAVE 1 USED & 1 NEW ORDERED
90910-12014 — FPR VSV — HAVE 1 USED BROKEN & 1 NEW ORDERED
90910-12175 — EVAP VSV — 1 NEW ORDERED
17630-46060 — EGR VSV — HAVE 1 USED
Then there is this one which came with my USDM twins but which doesn't immediately correspond to any category. I'm thinking it was superseded several years ago but curiously I was able to order a new one from Japan :/
—90910-12126B (HAVE, 1 broken, HAVE 1 new) -- Mystery VSV?
Last edited by KahnBB6; 03-24-15 at 03:48 PM.