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Go drive this thing already lol. You turned this into a ten year motor swap.
Haha! It took me eight years to afford and complete this engine swap! ;D It pales in comparison to yours though, Dmitry. Your swap and restoration is a work of automotive art. I've looked through your thread a number of times over these years and have been inspired by all the attention to detail.
I would love to go and drive it immediately, believe me. The fuel pump swap is the last thing I have to do before I can prime the oil and turn over the ignition. I'm only days away now.
The initial break-in procedure has me a little nervous but just the other day I went over all the specific first-start instructions with the builder of my short block so I probably shouldn't be.
Originally Posted by dclevs
Gotcha, looking through your thread you've really put a lot of detail into this project, I bet she'll run like a beast when you crank it up, and a reliably built beast at that. Looking forward to seeing you get this thing going!
Thank you! I think so too. When it comes down to what I've built at the end of the day I'm much more impressed with many other people's swaps and builds but as a long term reliable GTE swap that can take a beating and go for high mileage I'm very happy with it. It'll be running very soon. I'll try to catch up on the rest of the backlogged updates tonight.
Small vacuum fitting on intake manifold to connect the SC300/400 Heater Control Valve VSV vac hose
This is a factory vac port fitting that fits the 2JZGTE engine and gives an extra small vacuum nipple so that I could connect a long vacuum hose (I've been cutting what I need from a roll of Gates #27042 hose) from the SC300's Heater Control Valve VSV to a direct vacuum source. This allows me to avoid any extra T-splitters to keep the rest of the engine's stock vacuum hose routing untouched.
Since Supra MKIV's do not have the VSV-operated heater control valve setups that the SC300/400 and Soarer does it is necessary to find a vacuum source for this VSV. The original vacuum line coming from the HCV VSV has a one-way in-line check valve that must be re-used.
The third nipple I just capped off with a generic rubber end plug in the appropriate diameter.
For the longest time I have been trying to figure out what stereo and dash setup I wanted to have. I knew what I wanted but finding the right combination of electronics and bezels to do it took a long time to decide on.
It finally came down to the following:
-- A VDO/Continental CDD7418UB-OR 12V radio with classic looks, an internal CD player, rear aux-in, Bluetooth audio and handsfree phone functions and even a circuit to make the factory antenna go up and down (although I will have to fine-tune this if possible). It's simple and is an excellent upgrade from the OEM Pioneer stock head unit.
-- A Metra 1-DIN front panel/cage for the SC300/400 (heavily cut and trimmed with a Dremel)
-- A Beat-Sonic SLA-10B plug and play adapter for the SC300/400/Soarer. Yes, these are expensive but since I've already serviced my OEM stereo system and really don't plan on any upgrades to it I'm very happy to have paid for a solution that allows me to do as little custom stereo wiring as possible. I actually bought this a couple of years ago but stuffed it away.
-- One of the Popformance LXCC HVAC/multifunction touchscreen units. I've had this for a while too. I don't plan to use all of its expanded functions but I'll see what I like when I get a chance to play with it. Once the OEM Pioneer head unit was removed and replaced with an aftermarket HU I had no issues with electrical interference noise in the audio system.
-- An AutoExtrude twin gauge ashtray panel for SC300/400's. I populated these with two VDO Vision Black 52mm gauges: one for Volts and one for Oil Pressure to 150 PSI with a single-pole VDO pressure sender in 1/8" NPT thread (the sender is screwed into an Earls BSPT-to-NPT adapter fitting on the IS300 union bolt on my GTE oil cooler assembly.
I found a few special modifications were needed to get all of this to work.
First, I used the supplied metal mounting frame rails from the Beat-Sonic kit. Those were so much better than the filmsy plastic of the Metra kit for primary mounting. I followed Raine's instructions to cut down the Metra plastic frame rails so that just the front bezel would be used. Then I had to measure and drill new holes in the Beat-Sonic metal frame rails because the screw-in points for the 1-DIN Continental radio did not appear to be the same as it is on many 2-DIN aftermarket head units (which I am sure is what 90% of people who buy the Beat-Sonic kit are intending it for).
Then I had to take several fine grinding bits suitable for plastic and cut down the inside of the Metra front bezel to widen it into an ACTUAL 1-DIN opening. Leave it to a German company like VDO/Continental to make their 1-DIN radio to the EXACT 1-DIN spec dimensions with the front bezel removed. Actually, I like their exactness
To connect all the wires I followed the English instructions provided to me by Beat-Sonic (absolutely excellent tech support folks!) but the wiring on the back of their harness has labels for everything so it wasn't difficult at all to know what I was looking at even with Japanese-only instructions.
The Continental Radio manual provided me with its own harness pinouts which were very straightforward.
Since the Beat-Sonic harness uses what I came to learn were "bullet" style crimp connectors I was directed by their tech support staff to buy a pack of male & female Hilitchi 16-14 gauge bullet connectors that I could crimp onto the aftermarket harness wires for the VDO radio. This makes quick disconnection for any future changes while preserving the Beat-Sonic harness's plug and play appeal possible.
The only thing that tripped me up is that the VDO/Continental aftermarket radios have no built-in Amplified Power-On trigger wire to use the corresponding connector on the Beat-Sonic harness. Without this the OEM Lexus amplifier didn't turn on so I made a little removable patch/splitter sub harness harness to tie the Amp Power On wire into the radio's main 12V Switched power wire. I ordered cheap a PAC TR-4 Amp-Power On relay adapter which has a built-in two-second delay but I probably won't need it as I hear no popping from the stereo with my first method of triggering the factory amplifier.
EDIT: Refer to post #680 linked below to see a brief coverage on the installation of the PAC TR-4 amplifier remote trigger delay unit. It was very easy and, yes, is highly recommended if any aftermarket stereo you are using does not have an amplifier remote function built in. Triggering your stereo amplifier directly works but it will pop when turning on and off. The PAC TR-4 corrects this problem.
For the gauge bezel I created a harness from scratch with spare OEM wires in 14 and 16 gauge and some larger aftermarket 12 and 10 gauge wires. I re-used the factory connector from my OEM ashtray bezel but I did find the part number for this connector after the fact. It's plug and play with the factory cigarette lighter connector.
(The blue OEM ashtray harness connector can be picked up from Toyota by ordering P/N 90980-10794. You can also request the matching repair terminal wires to go with it. There are four of them and they should be in sufficient gauge sizing for accessory connections just like the stock wires in the original ashtray assembly. The other connector shown is an aftermarket Molex 4-pin which I have spliced into the 12V Switched wires for other electrical connections in my SC's center console).
In addition, the VDO gauges have separate 12V backlights which you are supposed to wire in series to your dash illumination wiring. It just so happens that two wires on the SC300/400 ashtray cigarette lighter power connector are for Switched 12V Power and two others are for Switched 12V Illumination! A test with my multimeter while flicking the parking light stalk on and off confirmed this. Those wires were JUST intended by Toyota to turn on the little illumination light ring on the factory DC/cigarette port. That made the gauge lighting solution very easy!
It was also necessary to grind own this one area of the Metra bezel frame rails in order to clear the factory SC bezel's audio dial assembly that was hitting it internally. Even though the volume dial isn't seeing any use now I didn't want to remove any of its internal parts behind the bezel. Who knows-- I might be able to gut it and re-wire it with aftermarket volume dial electronics that might work with the Continental stereo's currently unused steering wheel control interface.
Once completed it came out very nice and clean! I thought long and hard about installing a 2-DIN screen in the dash (and the current line of Sony 2-DIN head units came very close if not for their lack of customer support and lack of firmware bug fix updates) but I much prefer this setup with a simple radio that has modern electronics and handsfree functions. And BUTTONS and *****! I'll be too busy watching the road to mess with a touchscreen and my phone or a Garmin in a little mount can do everything else that I will need
These pictures were taken just before I installed the LXCC screen and got the entire assembly and bezel into the SC300. I will have some better pictures of the finished interior soon. What you see below is the setup minus the LXCC and using a Metra 2-DIN bezel that was cut away on the inside to a true 2-DIN opening. I first tried it this way with a cheap generic plastic pocket before ordering the Metra 1-DIN bezel with the integrated lower pocket.
Pictures of the final installed version are forthcoming.
I also removed the "Lexus" blank panel temporarily while I figure out if I can get my OEM seat heater switches wired in. I don't have seat heaters now but I plan to get aftermarket heating pads installed in the future.
(If anyone reading this has an original SC300 5-speed M/T that happened to come with factory heated seats as a factory option I would be so appreciative if you could pop open the manual shifter bezel and tell me the five tiny numbers embossed somewhere on the flat style seat heat switch harness side connector. I've been trying to find that part number through trial and error but so far I have not been able to identify the correct one to order.)
Restored and Re-Sealed LH Tail Light by Organized Garage Status
I noticed a year ago that I was beginning to get some internal leaking on my left hand side rear tail light assembly. Condensation and increasingly bad water retention were causing surface corrosion and rusting on my lighting harness bulb receptacles! I cleaned those receptacles up with light sanding once and replaced the tail light assembly with another decent one I picked up on ebay (the 92-94 SC tail light housings are discontinued now). This one, however, seemed to leak more than my original one!
It was time to call the professionals. Daniel of OGS took in the best of the two leaking tail light assemblies and completely re-sealed everything, re-set a little loose lens inside and did a beautiful job restoring the outer lens. I couldn't ask for more! Well... maybe I could. He's already interested me in doing stock-appearing LED converted 92-94 style tail lights in the future Before that must come some headlight and high beam restoration.
This is already installed on my SC now but just before I did I took some shots of it indoors.
Jonathan at AutoExtrude makes great products and you made it fit very will. Looks great with the single din radio and can’t wait to see a picture of the lxcc installed on top! Great work Craig!
Jonathan at AutoExtrude makes great products and you made it fit very will. Looks great with the single din radio and can’t wait to see a picture of the lxcc installed on top! Great work Craig!
Thank you Jim!! And Jonathan definitely does great work! I love his bezel design. It really updates and improves the purpose and function of the center console.
I would like to find some sort of plastic tab or a spare OEM plastic button release to fill in that gap in the lower left side but it's not a big deal.
Maybe in the future I can figure out how to put gauges and/or other functional instruments into the space where the enpty pocket currently is. I still like MLeopard's fully integrated bezel with the triangular configuration of three 52mm VDO gauges below the 1-DIN radio but once I got the 3D printed part it became apparent that there just wasn't enough space with the locking rings. VDO did not detail their dimensions when he did his initial tweak to his gauge bezel design to add a third one. As you can see a couple of posts back, despite their small size in the front, the locking rings for those Vision Black gauges are huge even with just two of them!
Maybe it is still possible with some other way of arranging the gauges or some other function. I really like the idea of a straight line of three gauges or gauges arranged in a diagonal pattern but with the space limitation being what it is there can only be two of the Vision Black gauges in there and so something else would have to be put in to balance them out aesthetically.
As promised, here are some pictures I took tonight of the completed dash setup. I haven't done much more than turn it on a few times to test functions quickly so as not to drain my battery too much... which by now probably needs a recharge or replacement before any cranking can occur. I haven't configured the Continental radio or the LXCC yet.
After all the work so far, here is where I am at right now: I need to get the Denso TT 285 lph fuel pump (Denso #950-0155) installed and wired up before I can prime the engine and do my first startup and break-in.
The TT pump itself is not hard to install. I've replaced my NA fuel pump before. The only difference here is that this one is larger in diameter and needs to have rubber fuel line as an insulator against the SC300 bracket and two stainless steel worm clamps to hold it in place. And then the connector for the NA pump has to be cut off and the 12V Power and Ground wires have to be converted to M5 ring terminals. One side of the TT fuel pump power connections uses an M4 nut and the other uses an M5 nut.
I am using a little M4 and M5 crush washer on each respective side also. But here is where I have read a lot of conflicting information: should I or should I not insulate these ring terminals with heat shrink tubing? And if I should, then where can I get the kind of tubing that is gasoline and diesel fuel resistant?
While it is true that it is not possible to get sparks to ignite fuel inside a fuel tank due to the high concentration of fuel vapors removing oxygen (see the video demonstration below) I have still been told by a local Toyota Master Tech who used to work on Supra MKIV TT's that using fuel-resistant (aka "fuel submersible) heat shrink insulation is still required. From what I've researched so far, this comes down to PTFE (PTFE supposedly is Teflon) or Polyolefin shrink tubing. So this is what I'll be adding to my list of parts.
For the purposes of this install, I am going to buy some 3/16ths inch tubing for the two wires that connect to the pump (if I need to splice anything) and 1/4 inch tubing to wrap around the two M5 ring terminals once I have crimped the wires and soldered them in place (AWAY from the fuel tank of course or at least with the vapors blocked with a thick rag in the access hole behind the tank). So long as the pump unit is away from the tank and gasoline itself and wiped down I should be fine to tack-solder two wires onto two terminals and heating up some shrink tubing over the exposed areas before reinstalling everything.
The tubing availability appears to come down to either "buyheatshrink", McMaster-Carr and Grainger Supply. Also, possibly West Marine stores.
Now what I am not sure of is... do I need to run thicker gauge wires to the pump itself? Are two NA pump wires inside the tank OK to use?
Next post I will focus on my extensive notes regarding how I plan to control the TT Denso Fuel pump.
Threads Which Address the Issue of Fuel-Submersible/Fuel-Resistant Heat Shrink Tubing:
SC300 Fuel Pump ECU/control vs Supra MKIV USDM TT Fuel Pump control (vs 12V Mod w/Relay)
Now I've come to the very last electrical challenge for this swap. While I could (and still MIGHT) do the 12V Mod w/Relay for the fuel pump control, I do have an MKIV TT Fuel ECU and even though I know the 9V/12V operation doesn't help in a high horsepower or high boost application I've been curious about whether or not the lower volume of fuel used at the lower speed 9V mode might in fact have something to do with better emissions at idle and part/low throttle.
Previously I had understood that all this 9V/12V dual mode setup did was preserve the fuel pump life for two more years or so than the pump will live at 12V. The Toyota master tech I spoke with said that some years of Tacomas (or some other Toyota truck) also have a similar 9V/12V fuel ECU and that lower emissions is a part of it.
Now as to whether or not this holds water in the real world... I don't know honestly. It's not popular to re-wire your SC300 to use the TT Fuel ECU since 99% of the time it's not going to help with a high horsepower build.
Nonetheless I have all the parts to wire it up and I wanted to understand exactly how it actually works electrically and how, if at all, it might be integrated into my oddball stock USDM 2JZGTE swap.
If it proves to be unsuccessful or not useful then I can always disable its function and do the 12V Mod with a 20/30A relay using direct power from the battery as my source.
And in fact, after enough study of the original schematics for both the SC300 EFI relay and fuel ECU circuits and the Supra TT versions of both... Toyota engineers seem to have originally implemented almost exactly the same thing only with an ECU that has 9V/12V/off functions capable of handling higher amperage draw.
The SC300 Fuel ECU Electrical Schematics (from the TSRM):
And now the 1993-1998 USDM Supra TT Fuel ECU Electrical Schematics (from the MKIV TT TSRM):
I studied these for several days and took notes and here is what I came up with:
TT Fuel ECU Connector (90980-11362 / F15):
Pin 1 — 30A 12V Power (+B)
Pin 2 — Power to fuel pump (FP)
Pin 3 — NOT USED
Pin 4 — NOT USED
Pin 5 — IJ1-4 from Main Engine ECU (FPC)
Pin 6 — IJ1-12 from Engine ECU (DI)
Pin 7 — NOT USED
Pin 8 — (E) Fuel Pump ECU Ground and Fuel Pump Ground to Chassis Ground
SC300/400 Fuel ECU Connector (F16):
Pin 1 — Fuel ECU Ground and Fuel Pump Ground to Chassis Ground
Pin 2 — IJ1-8 from Engine ECU (DI)
Pin 3 — IJ1-14 from Engine ECU (FPC)
Pin 4 — 12V Power (+B) IJ1-12 on engine harness w/ thick gauge wire **NOTE**
Pin 5 — To Fuel Pump (FP)
......
The Supra TT Fuel ECU uses a relay to get its higher amperage power to the fuel pump. The SC300 doesn’t use a relay, just direct power.
Within the TT Supra engine harness from IJ1-12 to Supra EA-2 (just at the engine fuse box on the SC300) I re-added the same 10ga(?) or 12ga wire from another SC300 engine harness. Also in my harness my EFI2 wire was spliced INTO the big gauge IJ1-12 wire just before the EA-2 connector. So I may need to change some of this at the EA-2 connector but I'm not sure yet.
However it is likely that this wire still won’t hold 20 amps and in addition, the Supra TT Fuel ECU was still designed to get its full power from the EFI2 relay.
This suggests that even with the TT Fuel ECU installed you would either need the same EFI1 and EFI2 relay setup that exists on all Supra TT’s… or… you would need to use the 12V Mod w/30A Relay mod anyway.
To make the TT Fuel ECU work correctly with the EFI2 wiring, Pin 2 of the TT Fuel ECU needs to get its power from Pin 5 of the main EFI relay (on an MKIV Supra... I will need to verify that Pin 5 of the main EFI relay circuit on an SC300 is the same).
Looking into all the major threads that detail the Denso TT Pump Installation, TT Fuel ECU questions and the common 12V Mod (those which correctly note that a high amp relay and direct battery power are required):
Now for the wiring of either the TT Fuel ECU or a simple 20A relay I went and bought some different gauges of braided and insulated marine electrical wire.
After viewing a little chart showing the correlation of wire distance measures vs amperage drawn and what gauges are appropriate at the local marine supply store and reading this thread I decided on 10ft or so of 8 Gauge electrical wire to go direct from the battery to the Fuel ECU area.
And regardless of whether or not I use the TT Fuel ECU or an aftermarket relay trigger for 12V only operation that 8 Gauge wire from the battery needs a 20A (or 30A?) in-line fuse which itself is connected to 8 Gauge wires (thank you AliSC3 for pointing this out to me when I gave you my first research notes on all of this!).
For the shorter connections at the pump, Fuel ECU and aftermarket relay I will be using either 10 Gauge or 12 Gauge wire.
...........
The most interesting part of all this research is that as complex as the factory Supra MKIV TT Fuel ECU setup may sound at first, Toyota's engineers deemed it necessary (or just very safe) to have EFI1 trigger a relay for EFI2 due to the high amp draw.
A stock SC300 uses a large gauge wire that runs through the engine harness to supply full 9V/12V power to its NA Fuel ECU but with the 20A current draw of the Supra TT Fuel pump it appears that they didn't think this was sufficient. They use only a slightly more complicated implementation of direct power from the battery via a relay. Neat!
So the SC300's and Supra NA's EFI circuitry are pretty much identical (electrically) to the Supra TT's EFI1 circuit and in the case of the Supra TT and most of us who swap turbo engines requiring much more fuel into our SC's, IS's, GS's and Supra MKIV NA's we also use a very similar principle to get direct battery power to a fuel pump relay which is only triggered when the ignition is on.
Many of you reading these last two posts probably find all this reading and study to be overkill but I really wanted to understand how this works... and how to wire it up safely.
I don't know right now what the ultimate boost threshold is before the TT Fuel ECU's 9V/12V transition begins to cause issues for BPU and APU Supras (I know it's been very documented) but for this swap I don't think the 9V low speed mode dictated by the TT fuel ECU will hurt anything.
Tomorrow I am going to show these notes to the master tech friend at the local Toyota dealer and compare them to his understanding of the same Toyota TIS schematics.
Then... it comes down to getting in there and wiring it all up.
.....Once I get that heat shrink tubing, that is. Grainger Supply and West Marine are both open tomorrow, so here's hoping they have what I need locally!
Are you talking about the white plug connector? If so, the only number on it is 11099. I did a quick search and didn't find anything. If that's the part you're looking for, I can cut it off and send it to you.
Are you talking about the white plug connector? If so, the only number on it is 11099. I did a quick search and didn't find anything. If that's the part you're looking for, I can cut it off and send it to you. Attachment 476470
THANK YOU SpectraBlu!! I think that is it, if it is from an original 5-speed that came with the heated seats from the factory. The A/T heated seat switches all use a larger connector with many more pins and when picking these up used the A/T seat heat switches are the most common ones to find.
No need to cut it off if that's what's on the connector you've posted a picture of. Keep yours intact. That should mean that the P/N to order is 90980-11099. The body-harness-side connector for the heat seat switches on all SC300 original 5-speed M/T's is 90980-10933. It just wasn't easy to find the part number to plug right into it. I'm putting in an order now to see if they are still available. I'll know tomorrow.
What I am going to do is just take the bare 11099 connector and plug the pins from my seat heat switches directly into the correct slots. The wires and spade should not have changed between the two versions. The mystery has been solved thanks to you!
You're welcome, no problem. If for some reason you can't get it, the offer stands.
I appreciate that, thank you! If I get a negative tomorrow after they've had a chance to process my order then I'll be contacting you and taking you up on that.
I have gone through all the most dangerous roads in AZ, NV , CO and UT and this isn't running yet
Sorry Craig ...just kidding. I guess you have been busy watching my front and dash cam videos while I was on a road trip in the Western / Mountain States ...
Get it done and test drive this thing to the top of Mt. Evans and Pike's Peak , Independence Pass and the Trail Ridge Road of the Rockies .
I have gone through all the most dangerous roads in AZ, NV , CO and UT and this isn't running yet
Sorry Craig ...just kidding. I guess you have been busy watching my front and dash cam videos while I was on a road trip in the Western / Mountain States ...
Get it done and test drive this thing to the top of Mt. Evans and Pike's Peak , Independence Pass and the Trail Ridge Road of the Rockies .
I'm actually still catching up on all your pictures and video from your trip, haha! I've been keeping up during this whole time but I've only been free to reply at hours well into the early morning on most days and didn't want to send you texts in the middle of the night where you were ;D The places you both went and showed us are beyond words. And the dash cams for front and rear views worked out really well!
I kind of stopped from exhaustion on this recently just before the needed fuel pump change. I needed a small break and I had to learn how to do it. I was also diverted to help with finding parts and arranging affordable maintenance and repairs on my mother's LS which needed a new/reman steering rack, tie rod ends, new front strut rods and bushings all at once. Also no less than two different hospital visits for a family member and a close friend (thankfully both are doing okay now). After all of that stress I had eventually made myself sick and had to get better. As the saying goes, when it rains it pours, haha.
I'm getting into the pump super late tonight. Will see how far I get.I was overly optimistic. Make that tomorrow
I would LOVE to take my car out onto those roads eventually! Even Pikes Peak, although I'd probably drive it carefully in my SC
I found an even better diagram for the TT Fuel ECU wiring with a 12V relay but still allowing the ECU to go between 9V and 12V. This is what I'll be doing, and I can always change it to a 12V-only w/relay system later on if I want to:
This note from the same page seems to confirm that within my harness the joining of the TT EFI2 wire with the larger gauge SC-spec EFI-MAIN wire that goes into the EA-2 connector is correct. It shows that it is this connection that will serve as the 12V trigger wire for the aftermarket 30A relay which will basically replicate what the stock Supra TT EFI2 30A relay circuit does:
"The TT has a separate fuse for the fuel pump (EFI2). Because of this, the TT harness does not perfectly match up to the NA fuse box. There are two electrical plugs, one matches, the other doesn't. What I did was replace the connector on the TT harness to plug into the NA fuse box. There are three wires on the NA side and four wires on the TT side. Three of the four wires correspond perfectly to the NA fuse box. I crimped the leftover thin black-red wire with the thicker black-red wire. I also used those wires as the signal to for the fuel pump relay. The dotted-line boxes in the diagram shows what I had to add or modify:"
--I did buy enough length of 8 Gauge AWG wire for the +B 12V power source from the battery that will go to the 30A relay but the biggest in-line 30A fuse holder I could get only went down to 10 Gauge AWG. So I also bought the same length of wire in 10 Gauge AWG. I am going to go ahead with that and hopefully that is large enough to safely handle the fuel pump's 20A draw over that distance.
--I am not planning to change the wires that go from the Fuel ECU (and/or 30A relay) other than changing the ends to ring connectors to fit on the M4 and M5 terminals. It seems no one else felt it was necessary to change the stock SC300 fuel pump wires until it came to the Fuel ECU, aftermarket relay and direct battery 12V power wire. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though. I have plenty of 10 AWG and 12 AWG wire if I am incorrect about this. I don't want to burn anything up.
--To insulate any exposed electrical connections inside the tank, however overkill this might be due to a lack of oxygen inside there, I have both PTFE heat shrink tubing and Viton heat shrink tubing to choose from. Both are supposed to be fuel submersible but I think the Viton is supposed to be better. I'm not allowing any standard heat shrink tubing or plastic insulators to be inside the fuel tank as they will deteriorate in the presence of fuel.
--Any soldering I do will be AWAY from any fumes from the gas tank. A big rag will be stuffed into that access hole in the back seat area.
Edit: I'll just throw this question out there but can anyone confirm if I need to change all the stock SC300 wires that go from the fuel pump to the outside of the tank right up TO the Fuel ECU and aftermarket relay? Or can I leave those wires stock other than the two M4 and M5 ring terminals?
In other words, I'm aware of the need to run 8 or 10 AWG wire with an in-line fuse for the direct battery 12V wire to the 30A relay... and for 10 or 12 AWG wire for any other applicable power connections from the TT Fuel ECU and aftermarket 30A relay... but it's those stock SC300 NA fuel pump wires on the pump hanger inside the fuel tank that travel through the sealed plate and which will go right from the fuel pump into the TT Fuel ECU and/or 30A relay that I am concerned about being possibly too small for 20A of current draw.
I don't see many people who have done the Denso TT fuel pump swap talking about that so maybe it's self explanatory but I want to be sure. The last thing I want to do is leave in any wires that are undersized for this pump and have a potential issue.
07-04-18, 07:03 PM
Before that must come some headlight and high beam restoration.
