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I had the Lexus re-manufactured SC steering rack installed with a new alignment. It tracks nicely now!
For the last couple of days I noticed that I had to top off the PS fluid with more Dexron ATF quite a lot. I was so busy I just went to Toyota and got three more quarts of it. But obviously something wasn't right.
Was the reman rack not good? Was the brand new (not reman) PS pump not good? I had replaced my PS high and low pressure lines with new OEM ones only a few years back-- they had to still be in good shape. And I used new crush washers on the high pressure line banjo bolt with the TSRM specified 36 ft-lbs of torque.
It was a mystery. Then I started looking at the PS pump while the engine was on and someone cranked the steering wheel-- a leak at that high pressure banjo bolt at the pump?
Nope.
I'm not sure how I let this happen but the PS pump vacuum pressure sensor right next to the banjo bolt was loose. I took a 17mm crows foot socket, a 3/8" extension and a socket wrench and tightened it down. Then I cleaned ATF residue off everything I could reach with shop towels. I couldn't find torque specs right in the TSRM (I should have looked at the torque glossary for the Supra) but that seemed to cure the issue. I just kept topping off every so often to account for the air that got into the system when it was loose.
Now it operates smooth and quietly again.
I just need to get under the car and clean ATF fluid from the engine under-splash shield and components
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Speedometer/Yellowbox fixes:
The Yellowbox VSS harness (which was an original pre-production SC/MKIV harness from Yellr) was in need of some wire repair and so I pulled it out and got to work. I also added some plastic conduit covered in electrical tape which should better protect those wires from now on.
This helped and got the speedo working again but still there was an issue with the speedo signal not coming on until a few minutes into each drive.
I suspected that the 2013-era Marlin Crawler VSS adapter might be failing so I got another one of those to install later.
If that doesn't make the speedo work 100% of the time then I guess I should suspect the gauge in my cluster. Once the speedo starts working it tends to stay working.
But from my old Lexus dealer records from the previous owner I know that my cluster was once replaced anyway at a Lexus dealer back in the very late 90's or early 2000's. All that hardware should be fine. My bet is on the old MC VSS adapter having an issue. I'll have that solved soon.
Actually, does anyone know if a Soarer or JZX90/100 R154 speedo drive/VSS unit and gear will fit an old 1986-1992 MKIII R154 which came with the ancient mechanical speedo drive?
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A/C:
I ruled out the A/C Code 21 (Solar sensor fault). After shining a bright flashlight on the correct sensor as I ran the diagnostic test that code did not reappear so that wasn't it, just the A/C code 12 (ambient temp sensor circuit).
So the only thing left to figure out is why my A/C ambient temp sensor circuit isn't working right. It's either the sensor in the bumper or my wiring on that circuit for EB1-7 to SC II1-1 and the inclusion of Supra II1-1 ("A/C Lock sensor" on the Supra) being also spliced into SC II1-1.
Once I have that fixed I'll be able to run the A/C in recirculate mode and actual set temperatures instead of just on the full "COLD" setting.
The system could probably use a freon recharge too but that can wait.
And I need to get the fan controller override wire spliced into wire between the A/C connector Pin 4 and EB1-1 (which is the +12V power from the A/C magnetic clutch relay) to not have to use a manual switch to have that fan cool the condenser with the A/C running.
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Other than all of that it's running smoothly and is really nice to drive 220 miles on the new engine so far. All under 3k rpm with moderate driving and my best effort to keep the engine speed varied. Whenever I have to idle at a light I try to not allow it to stay at the same RPM for long. But I have situations where even driving calmly and moderately for the break-in I have felt a good taste of the power these engine have even in stock tune. I am being good for now... but man, I love turbo spool and boost, hahaha
I keep saying this but it's true-- once I've got all these little bugs worked out the final touch will be to get those 3.76 gears swapped in. The very short NA gearing is the only thing holding this setup back.
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Lastly, I really need to take some proper pictures and/or video for this thread now that the car is running well.
I added some updates to post #695 to reflect some corrections I made to get the A/C system to automatically kick the auxiliary electric fan on and off with the compressor operation after further research studying the Supra MKIV TT wiring diagrams.
Basically all along I had the right hunch that the wire from Supra II1-10 was indeed a remote additional A/C compressor magnetic clutch +12V trigger that could be used to activate a fan controller relay override wire. I just had not figured it out at first and since I had another A/C wiring issue preventing my compressor from turning on I also had no override activation of the auxiliary TT electric fan.
Once I got my A/C wiring sorted out so that the compressor worked, the Supra II1-10 wire indeed worked as a +12V override trigger for my Mishimoto fan controller.
A/C compressor goes on... auxiliary electric cooling fan goes on.
A/C compressor goes off... auxiliary electric cooling fan goes off.
Just as Toyota intended, only with an aftermarket relay circuit
For reference, this is exactly the same as if someone were to tap directly into the A/C connector at Pin 4 (the mag clutch power wire which goes to the A/C mag clutch relay) or at the wire directly from the SC's EB1-1... since both of those two pins are joined on the same circuit.
On a Supra MKIV GTE harness the wire II1-10 is just a splice that comes from that same +12V circuit and from there goes into the Supra's own unique A/C amplifier and computer which activates that auxiliary fan through a set of two relays: one with a radiator temperature switch which activates at 212F and deactivates once the temperature goes down to 196F... and another which is meant to override the first relay.
It's much easier to just use a single controller with a relay that performs both functions tied into a radiator coolant temperature sensor (Toyota used a temperature switch to close one of the relay circuits on original MKIV TT's) and the II1-10 wire (aka splice into A/C connector Pin 4) tied to an override wire on the aftermarket controller.
The radiator sensor activates the cooling fan if the coolant temperature gets too hot and the additional mag clutch power wire activates the fan when the A/C system goes on. Simple!
Edit: I've revised this post to reflect where I was incorrect in terms of how Toyota originally made the Supra TT electric fan(s) turn on for the air conditioner. I had it wrong. Supra II1-10 does have a function but it was NOT used to directly turn on the fans via the Supra's factory setup. It just had a function for the Supra's unique A/C Amplifier and HVAC computer system.
It CAN be used as I have demonstrated but this just makes the electric fan turn on and off via an aftermarket electric fan controller override wire (secondary to the coolant temp sensor feeding into that aftermarket Mishimoto controller) any time the A/C compressor's magnetic clutch is turned on and off.
Toyota's way of doing it used an A/C high pressure switch (a single mode pressure switch) to activate the OEM TT electric fan relay so as to cool down the A/C condenser. The SC300 from the factory has no extra electric cooling fans but uses a dual-mode low AND high pressure A/C switch that feeds into the SC HVAC controller.
Sorry for the confusion due to my learning mistakes.
After getting the A/C recharged it is nice to have cold air conditioning again!
I still need to rectify the A/C Code 12 though so that I can regain actual temperature control instead of full cold air but progress is progress.
Oh, also.... for anyone who doesn't know already, when you do a 1JZGTE or 2JZGTE swap into an SC and keep the bulky stock turbo(s) you will have an issue getting an A/C service fitting onto the low side line service port that used to have a lot of clearance right near the exhaust manifold. The solution to this is a standard $12 90-degree angle adaptor that will allow vertical rather than horizontal access for R134a refrigerant discharging and recharging on the low side.
This may only be an issue for SC300's that originally came with R12 A/C systems and which were later converted to R134a as mine was long before I bought the car.
I've also had a few ups and downs with the supposedly brand new 89621-22030 TT igniter that I was using. Sometimes I would not get a consistent IGF signal which would result in a no-start condition or driving down the road and getting an utterly horrible bronco-bucking condition any time I tried to modulate the throttle!
I switched that out for my old used 1996(?) era 89621-22020 TT igniter which I thought was bad and so far it's been fine.
However since the 22020's are long discontinued I ordered a new 89621-22030 igniter from Japan just in case of any further issues. Normal USA dealer MSRPs for those things exceeds $800!!! Insane!
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The only other issues I have right now are:
--getting the A/C to actually regulate air temperature beyond just the "COLD" setting.
--the tachnometer sometimes doesn't come on right when I start the car and takes anywhere from a few seconds to as long as a few minutes to start showing the revs (I have done the cluster R109 resistor bypass mod)
--the speedometer often takes a while before it decides to kick on and show my speed.
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So far with the speedo issue I have repaired all the wires on my Yellowbox VSS speedo corrector harness and replaced the 2013-era Marlin Crawler MKIII R154 mechanical VSS adapter with a new one. Still no change in the issue.
Suspecting the Yellowbox V4 speedo corrector unit or maybe its harness I have ordered a new V5 model with a new SC/MKIV plug and play harness. I am hoping that is all the issue is.
I've also ordered from Japan a Soarer R154 factory VSS unit and matching gear for a 3.73 ratio. After looking at a comparison of the older MKIII R154 mechanical speedo drive unit and the later three-wire VSS style speedo units it looks like I can just update to the newer Toyota OEM system on my 1989 transmission. Whenever those parts clear backorder in Japan I'll try it out.
However I think my speedo issue has to be related to some malfunction in the old Yellowbox V4 which is intercepting my VSS signal from the transmission before it gets to the VSS connector on the GTE engine harness.
In the case of both my tachometer and speedometer both of them do work accurately... but for reasons I haven't yet determined both sometimes have a varying delay before the gauges actually start operating.
Still working to solve those issues.
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Overall though the car has been driving very well! I've still been keeping it below 3500 rpm and staying with moderate acceleration. Varying rpms whenever I can and keeping idling to a minimum or varying the idle rpms at long stoplights. Even while keeping acceleration moderate without activating the second turbo I still can't believe the night and day difference in engine power.
In 150 miles I'll have broken it in to 500 miles and I will then change the oil to synthetic for the first time.
But I think I will also run my Garmin GPS against the odometer miles soon for comparison just to be sure it's actually 500 miles of break in since without the speedometer working consistently with VSS signal correction for the 13% over-read I can't be totally sure. Worst case I will just continue the break-in on the Comp Cams oil until I hit 565 miles on the odometer just to be safe.
It's nearly sorted out now. Soon it will come down to just more cosmetic restoration and swapping the final drive. Even after the break-in I'm going to be nice to it through maybe 1200 miles or so but I can't wait to see what this 2JZGTE can really do
I added some updates to post #695 to reflect some corrections I made to get the A/C system to automatically kick the auxiliary electric fan on and off with the compressor operation after further research studying the Supra MKIV TT wiring diagrams.
Basically all along I had the right hunch that the wire from Supra II1-10 was indeed a remote additional A/C compressor magnetic clutch +12V trigger that could be used to activate a fan controller relay override wire. I just had not figured it out at first and since I had another A/C wiring issue preventing my compressor from turning on I also had no override activation of the auxiliary TT electric fan.
Once I got my A/C wiring sorted out so that the compressor worked, the Supra II1-10 wire indeed worked as a +12V override trigger for my Mishimoto fan controller.
A/C compressor goes on... auxiliary electric cooling fan goes on.
A/C compressor goes off... auxiliary electric cooling fan goes off.
Just as Toyota intended, only with an aftermarket relay circuit
For reference, this is exactly the same as if someone were to tap directly into the A/C connector at Pin 4 (the mag clutch power wire which goes to the A/C mag clutch relay) or at the wire directly from the SC's EB1-1... since both of those two pins are joined on the same circuit.
On a Supra MKIV GTE harness the wire II1-10 is just a splice that comes from that same +12V circuit and from there goes into the Supra's own unique A/C amplifier and computer which activates that auxiliary fan through a set of two relays: one with a radiator temperature switch which activates at 212F and deactivates once the temperature goes down to 196F... and another which is meant to override the first relay.
It's much easier to just use a single controller with a relay that performs both functions tied into a radiator coolant temperature sensor (Toyota used a temperature switch to close one of the relay circuits on original MKIV TT's) and the II1-10 wire (aka splice into A/C connector Pin 4) tied to an override wire on the aftermarket controller.
The radiator sensor activates the cooling fan if the coolant temperature gets too hot and the additional mag clutch power wire activates the fan when the A/C system goes on. Simple!
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After getting the A/C recharged it is nice to have cold air conditioning again!
I still need to rectify the A/C Code 12 though so that I can regain actual temperature control instead of full cold air but progress is progress.
Oh, also.... for anyone who doesn't know already, when you do a 1JZGTE or 2JZGTE swap into an SC and keep the bulky stock turbo(s) you will have an issue getting an A/C service fitting onto the low side line service port that used to have a lot of clearance right near the exhaust manifold. The solution to this is a standard $12 90-degree angle adaptor that will allow vertical rather than horizontal access for R134a refrigerant discharging and recharging on the low side.
This may only be an issue for SC300's that originally came with R12 A/C systems and which were later converted to R134a as mine was long before I bought the car.
Craig -I will respectfully disagree with what I highlighted . The electric fans do not go off just because the AC Compressor goes off. Neither do they turn on just because the AC Compresor goes on. There are two electric fans (AC condenser / Radiator ) for the 1995 and below and three electric fans (2 Radiator and 1 AC Condenser) for the 97 and above models of Toyota Supra MKIVs. Their operations are not dependent on the ON/OFF condition of the AC Compressor and the electric diagrams clearly shows it. They are dependent on the AC Pressure switch and Coolant Temperature Switch. Which means, as long as the AC is charged and the coolant temp sensor switch is sensing a temperature equal or higher than its temp specs then fans should be on EVEN IF you have turned off the Air Condition. That ensures that coolant will be at optimum operating temp even if AC is not on. Like the weather might be so hot and regardless if your AC is off , the fans should be on to help cool the radiator , thus , they have no relation with the ON / OFF condition of AC Compressor.
Provided that your wiring is done right , this can be experimented easily. The moment one starts the car in the morning , turn on the AC compressor , one will notice that the fans won't be on right away for the simple reason that the Coolant Sensor Switch is sensing that the coolant temp is still lower than its temp specs.
That angle of the low side port is a problem ,whether it is R12 or R134, even on single turbo setups. What I did is slowly rotate the whole pipe so much so that the port is facing upward. That is what I did in all my SCs with swaps.
Craig -I will respectfully disagree with what I highlighted . The electric fans do not go off just because the AC Compressor goes off. Neither do they turn on just because the AC Compresor goes on. There are two electric fans (AC condenser / Radiator ) for the 1995 and below and three electric fans (2 Radiator and 1 AC Condenser) for the 97 and above models of Toyota Supra MKIVs. Their operations are not dependent on the ON/OFF condition of the AC Compressor and the electric diagrams clearly shows it. They are dependent on the AC Pressure switch and Coolant Temperature Switch. Which means, as long as the AC is charged and the coolant temp sensor switch is sensing a temperature equal or higher than its temp specs then fans should be on EVEN IF you have turned off the Air Condition. That ensures that coolant will be at optimum operating temp even if AC is not on. Like the weather might be so hot and regardless if your AC is off , the fans should be on to help cool the radiator , thus , they have no relation with the ON / OFF condition of AC Compressor.
Provided that your wiring is done right , this can be experimented easily. The moment one starts the car in the morning , turn on the AC compressor , one will notice that the fans won't be on right away for the simple reason that the Coolant Sensor Switch is sensing that the coolant temp is still lower than its temp specs.
That angle of the low side port is a problem ,whether it is R12 or R134, even on single turbo setups. What I did is slowly rotate the whole pipe so much so that the port is facing upward. That is what I did in all my SCs with swaps.
Gerry, thank you. Looks like I did it again I looked at the Supra wiring diagrams again and... yep, you are right and I am 100% incorrect. I may have figured out how to get the electric fan to turn on automatically with the A/C compressor's mag clutch and shut off when the A/C compressor's mag clutch shuts off but after reading your post an looking at the diagrams again this is still NOT how the system was designed to work by Toyota.
I think I've been so focused on figuring out what that Supra II1-10 circuit did originally that I jumped the gun a bit. I did get a kind of positive result but... this is still not how the system is supposed to operate.
I'll drive with it like this for now because I can't imagine it will hurt the heavy duty cycle fan motor but I need to revise this on my car.
I'm going to remove a lot of those updated posts now since they're inaccurate.
I didn't know that the low side pressure line on the exhaust side of the engine bay could be rotated 90-degrees. I'd have done that while the engine was out had I realized. I was briefly thinking of sourcing a Soarer JZZ30 A/C low side line but quickly ruled that out as being unnecessary.
Now I am interested to understand how I can recreate the correct operating using the A/C temperature switch as a relay trigger. Perhaps this means I would need to add another relay to the system in order to do that?
In looking at the SC300/400 diagrams and Supra diagrams again I see that both cars of course have A/C high pressure switches (as well as another for low pressure shutoff) but they are wired differently.
I would not want to impede the normal operation of the A/C high pressure switch with the SC300's HVAC computer. I would just want to tap into it in order to provide the factory circuit closed condition whenever the pressure is high enough to require the cooling fan to come on and a circuit open condition the rest of the time.
Edit: Hmm... on second look the SC300 appears to have a dual mode style A/C pressure switch (presumably for both high AND low system shutoff?) while the Supra appears to have two different A/C pressure switches: one for low pressure system shutoff and another for the high pressure condition which then closes the circuit that activates one of those relays tied into the electric fans.
So now I'm not so sure I can just tap into the SC300's A/C pressure switch and expect to have the electric fan circuit turn on ONLY when there is a high pressure condition. Now I am thinking the same would happen with a low pressure condition since the SC300/400's pressure switch is dual mode.
Aside, Gerry, where is that third fan located on 1993-1996 Supras? I had always thought there was only one extra electric fan on 93-96's and only two extra fans on 97-98's but there they are right in the diagrams.
Now I want to get that third 93-96 fan and wire it up.
Reference diagrams:
The SC300/400's A/C high pressure switch (connector "A3"):
And the 1993.5-1996 Supra MKIV TT's A/C Pressure Switch (look at connector "A3 A"):
The 93-96 did not have 3 fans. It only has one radiator fan on the fan shroud (which you have) and one condenser fan which is in front of the condenser. Only the 97-98 fan shroud have 2 radiator fans on the shroud and one condenser fan in front of the condenser.
Okay, thank you for clarifying. I was confused. I though I saw two fan motors in the 93-96 TT wiring schematic and three fan motors in the 1997 TT schematic (I must have misinterpreted) but only ever knew of there being one factory TT additional electric fan for 93-96 TT's and only two additional for the 97-98 TT's as you stated. I looked through the 1995 TT TSRM for the cooling system and confirmed the same just to be sure I hadn't missed something, lol So we are on the same page.
For now I am going to leave the fan relay hooked up as it is to trigger and de-trigger the controller's override function with compressor mag clutch activation and deactivation. As I am currently wired up when the A/C is not in use my fan controller will still activate at about 195F or so (I have to get Mishimoto on the phone to confirm their default setting in case I need to adjust it slightly) based on input from that temp sensor in the stock TT radiator location on the bottom.
But now that I understand where I was wrong in my thinking of why and how the stock TT electric fan system decided when to cut on the fan during times of high refrigerant pressure I think I should still revise my setup to instead use an A/C high pressure switch condition to make the fan turn on.
Gerry, on your OMT 940whp automatic car how do you have your A/C cooling fans wired? I know that your cooling requirements for that car are much more demanding than it is for mine but there must be a straightforward way in which you have done this to cope with hot Georgia summers
I am going to look at your last few build thread posts again regarding your inclusion of the two OEM TT electric radiator fans on your OMT. If you included any wiring specific to an A/C high pressure switch signal (or circuit closing) then I definitely missed it and need to review your notes.
Craig -all 3 fans are controlled by the coolant sensor switch at the bottom of radiator.....at 185F . I need them on regardless if AC is charged or is on/off cause I want to make sure my coolant is always at optimum operating temp.
Craig -all 3 fans are controlled by the coolant sensor switch at the bottom of radiator.....at 185F . I need them on regardless if AC is charged or is on/off cause I want to make sure my coolant is always at optimum operating temp.
Okay, that puts it in better perspective, thank you! For your car, given the much more demanding cooling requirements (and especially the unique system you put together to ensure your ATF A340 temps are always at optimum) there was no need to even pursue such an approach using an A/C pressure switch to trigger anything.
I know that both the 93-96 and 97-98 OEM TT electric fans are heavy duty cycle and really cannot be harmed by running them often. The OEM fan motors themselves are also shared with a Prius part number so I don't think they will ever be difficult to replace
I may just leave my Mishimoto fan controller's override circuit set up as is so that it stays triggered by the activation of the compressor's magnetic clutch. It works well and even when my A/C isn't on the radiator temp sensor will still activate that auxiliary fan if the coolant temperature gets beyond optimum.
Originally Posted by slappy96
Just freaking fabulous. All of it. Hats off to you Kahn. Can't wait to see it continue. And to think, I was pretty proud of my build.
Big thumbs Up.
Thank you slappy!!
I'm through the worst of the early swap gremlins now so I think I can take it easier from here on. Love your build too though! At the end of the day mine is still a very simple nearly bone stock swap, nothing super special. Those hybrid twins you have, even not being the full monty STU spec, make me envious
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Tonight I figured out my final A/C issue: even after verifying that all my wires for the A/C compressor's lock sensor and SC's Outside Ambient Temperature Sensor were going to the correct places on the SC II1 connector I had a very simple culprit. That ambient temp sensor had been left unplugged
So now the A/C is fine, gets its cooling fan on the condenser and full A/C temperature control works again and there is no A/C Code 12
The tach was behaving again and I was able to isolate the speedo issue to a probably failing YellowBox V4 unit. My old Marlin Crawler screw-on VSS adapter was loose when I replaced it with a new one so I think that was where I was previously getting an inconsistent signal.
The old Yellowbox speedo corrector is getting replaced with a new one soon. For now the old one usually works most of the time.
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For now I'm parking the SC again for a week or so until a replacement new OEM TT igniter 89621-22030 that I ordered comes in from Japan.
The $200 "new" OEM 89621-22030 that I didn't buy from a Toyota dealer in the USA or Japan is definitely dead and has no IGF signal so the car won't start with that one. I'm still not sure why it began to fail suddenly.
I have been driving on an old used 1996 era (stamped on the casing) 89621-22020 TT igniter. That one has over the last few days been having similar symptoms of failure with the IGF signal failing after a few miles of driving. It is a 22 year old ignition module after all with who knows how many miles on it by now.
It stranded me a couple of times tonight but I was able to let it cool off, start up again and get home safely.
Still, barring my wait for a new replacement igniter everything has continued to be smooth sailing all in all as I get closer to being done with the break-in period
New Igniter broken and old one exhibiting same symptoms ? Don't you think it is a problem somewhere like wiring ? All my igniters are used , never bought a new one for any of the so many 2jzgte cars I had and still have and never have seen any one konk out on me.
I hope it is not a wiring issue that is shorting things out or maybe I am just lucky ?
I know the igniters are not really supposed to go bad but in this case that has to be what’s happening
We went through and fixed all the igniter and coil pack wiring a couple of months back just before I was able to perform the ring seating break in.
At that time I found my old used 1996 igniter gave no IGF signal... so I bought a supposedly “new OEM” igniter from a 3rd party parts company. And it worked until recently.
It could be that while fixing other issues I somehow fried the new igniter. I don’t know. But it deteriorated to the point of giving no IGF with which to start the engine.
So I plugged in the old 1996 igniter just to try it and— it worked fine! But every now and then the IGF would fail on that one and cause the ECU to shut the engine down. I chalk this up to the igniter being 22 years old and previously used with many miles on it before me.
When I was stranded on a side street across town last night I did try that 22030 “new” igniter again but it still gave no IGF signal at all. It is in worse shape than the really old slightly failing igniter from 1996 :/
I plugged in the old starting-to-fail 1996 igniter again and the car started and got me home with no hiccups and moderate driving. But... I don’t entirely trust it now. It did this a little bit before too on other occasions.
Gerry I think you must have been really lucky so far or else I have been very unlucky
What I figure is that since the current 89621-22030 igniters are the same as the old ones (other than the mounting hole diameters) I’ll have better luck with another new OEM unit from Toyota this time.
I just happened to get one from Japan for a much better price than the $500-$800 that they usually sell for in the USA Still a good bit more than what I paid for the previous failed 22030 igniter though.
I guess this is rare to happen but it still can happen?
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It’s entirely possible that I did somehow fry the “new” probably not direct from Toyota 22030 igniter— not sure how but if not that then it is just a faulty example.
And the old OEM one that has 1996 stamped on it which I have been using for the last couple of weeks... I still hypothesize that it’s probably starting to fail just due to its extreme age and miles.
But still... the really old one is in better shape than the new not-from-a-dealer one that I bought.
Truly, other than a bad igniter everything else is fine and solved now. Well... plus replacing that old Yellowbox speedo corrector but that doesn’t hurt drive-ability.
I got a new igniter bracket. This version replaces the earlier version with smaller screw holes.
It came unpainted so I did a coat of VHT primer and then black flat VHT 250F wheel paint.
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Next I found a decent used SC300/400 tan factory driver’s sidd floor mat on eBay and cleaned it up. It’s not perfect but it’s in much better condition than my original mat.
The rest of the set are fine. In the future I can always have a brand new set custom cut sans the Lexus logo to get things perfect.
The new mat on the left and the old one on the right. First before some cleaning and scrubbing with carpet soap... and then after.
Again, the better mat (on left) is not perfect by any means but once thoroughly scrubbed and put in the car it looks MUCH more respectable.
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Next on the list:
--I'm nearly done with the 500 mile break in period. I've got some Mobil1 synthetic 10W-30 on standby ready to go in Though I'm still going to go easy on the engine at first once I'm no longer under the 3500 rpm restriction I am looking forward to finally experiencing full boost with both of the stock USDM TT turbochargers I never get tired of hearing the first turbo spool and the stock recirculating BOV do its job even while doing my best to keep acceleration moderate.
--Still waiting on that Yellowbox V5 to come in. The old one seems to be behaving a little better but still doesn't activate right at startup which gives the GTE ECU no VSS signal until it does. The new JDM R154 VSS sensor and gearset is also arriving soon so I can replace the Marlin Crawler screw-on VSS adapter whenever I want to.
--I ordered the SC/MKIV 200mm differential rebuilt kit from Driftmotion. One step closer to completing that final touch on this swap: the 3.769:1 Supra TT Auto final drive.
--My stock headlight housings probably could use some OG Status restoration, re-sealing and a projector lens upgrade. They do get a bit cloudy when it's rainy and humid out. Definitely on the to-do list but it isn't too bad so it will have to come after the differential work.
--Get a quote on getting that driver's side door hinge replaced at a body shop. Probably in the new year but better to do it than wait until the old hinge begins to sag.
--Get the seatbelts re-webbed. Especially the driver's side.
--Get a quote to redo the rear seat leather to match the fronts. And get the rear window tint done finally.
--Figure out if I can get a new steering telescope motor or gear (or both) from Lexus since my column won't telescope in and out any longer. The column tilt function works fine since I repaired it in 2013.
--Clean the paint surface and apply some of the factory 202 Onyx Black touch up paint I just bought to go over any scratched or chipped spots.
All in all though the SC is feeling like it's happy now. Most of these things on the list are finishing touches
10-13-18, 12:20 AM
220 miles on the new engine so far. All under 3k rpm with moderate driving and my best effort to keep the engine speed varied. Whenever I have to idle at a light I try to not allow it to stay at the same RPM for long. But I have situations where even driving calmly and moderately for the break-in I have felt a good taste of the power these engine have even in stock tune. I am being good for now... but man, I love turbo spool and boost, hahaha 
I looked at the Supra wiring diagrams again and... yep, you are right and I am 100% incorrect. I may have figured out how to get the electric fan to turn on automatically with the A/C compressor's mag clutch and shut off when the A/C compressor's mag clutch shuts off but after reading your post an looking at the diagrams again this is still NOT how the system was designed to work by Toyota.
