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I think that will be a good setup, my thought when I read the last couple posts was that you needed a stiffer pressure plate and that looks like what the stage 3 has.
I rarely ever break in the clutch the long recommended way (I don't even drive a single car that much in a year lol), I drive it normally until it feels like its engaging smoothly/consistently.. and usually pretty soon after that I give it some half power pulls... and if it doesn't slip I lay right into it and if it holds then it's good to go.
I haven't had any issues yet with breaking it in wrong and I wouldn't recommend it everyone, but I feel like if you do at least that little bit of easy driving and it then starts slipping on a pull, its generally going to be because you have too much power for those components vs "breaking" them in more.
I think you will be a little surprised at how hard that second turbo comes on when the clutch holds and it will rocket to full boost pretty quicly... at least on USDM twins its quite a transition with everything setup right and if the clutch holds... your tires might not with that 4.27 ratio back there.
^^ Apparently that is exactly what it needs. I've learned quite a bit more about clutches since installing this engine. Prior to this I've never owned a car with enough power to overwhelm any upgraded non-stock clutch.
What you suggest about how you break in your clutches is actually not that different from what DJ @ SouthBend suggested to me: just drive it normally without any full throttle power application over the 750 miles of break in and very gradually apply more power over that mileage window. Initially what he suspected was that I had driven on my new clutch too lightly to fully break it in. So I think this goes right to what you are saying, Ali.... breaking easy at first and then begin to push it a little more at a time.
The the weekend or start of next week I'll have all the new clutch parts in and then I can figure out when to get it installed.
I believe you about the force of the second turbo fully kicking in and holding even at stock boost. I've felt it a little several times at the transition point but only briefly. I've got BFG Comp2 275's on the rear and they have pretty good traction overall but we'll see once the clutch is sorted out.
It's not so bad with the 4.27 gearing although I can tell that at certain speeds and conditions the ratios ideally would be better if the final drive were lower. I'm sure that my fuel economy would be slightly better with a lower final drive. I was planning to remove the TT Auto diff and get it rebuilt back with the original 3.76 gears this week and I have all the required parts on standby but the shop is fully booked with customer orders right now and I'd have a long downtime wait before I could drive my car again. I'll plan for it sometime in January.
Though I still don't regret having installed the 4.27 gears into this diff some seven years ago. For the stock NA engine with my driving style they were perfect. They just aren't ideal any longer now that there is boost.
By the way I'm very intrigued by your latest research for your fully manual 2JZ 4WD pickup project! The notes about the FJ Cruiser 6-speed transfer case and other alternatives I'm still wrapping my head around. That is going to be one special truck when it's finished
I haven’t really had free time to take some good pictures of my SC when I wasn’t busy troubleshooting it but today I just happened to park it in a lot where the afternoon light was just perfect for a quick snap or two
Lettut-- it's in Florida still. I've had it here since just before the actual hands on part of my swap began. Further cosmetic restoration aside I must finish any of the last minor mechanical and any remaining electrical before it can go back to CA.
I don't have any very recent showcase engine bay pics but I did find this one from further back in the build before I got the engine started for the first time. I'll take some new ones tomorrow or the following day
Totally stock with the sole exception being the CARB legal K&N cone filter which I only used because I had to retain the SC's cruise control unit and I couldn't figure out how to mount the used Supra TT cruise unit in either its proper MKIV TT LHD location (near the ABS lines) without conflicting with the hood strut or in the Z30 Soarer RHD cruise control unit location which is used for other components on the LHD SC's. In the picture below from a few months ago I hadn't installed the intake tube and K&N yet. And a lot of other things.
Are you talking about the white plug connector? If so, the only number on it is 11099. I did a quick search and didn't find anything. If that's the part you're looking for, I can cut it off and send it to you. Attachment 476470
Howdy... I am hailing from Toyota side of things. Signed up here since I am trying to acquire this connector for an obscure project (relocation of Tacoma's RSCA switch). Apparently the part number, 90980-11099, has been discontinued.
Would you (or anyone) be able to sell me that connector?
unclemat, welcome to CL! I would suggest you go to the sub-forum called Marketplace under the SC300/400 section and make a WTB (Want To Buy) ad there to request if anyone has this 5-speed M/T seat heater switch assembly or just the 90980-11099 connector. For Lexus vehicles this connector seems to be specific to the rare SC300/400 5-speed manual cars (or the Japanese market Toyota Soarer Z30 sister car). Thus it will be hard to come by used.
I can confirm that the 90980-11099 connector was discontinued at least as of July 2018 (but probably much sooner than that date).
The only reason I sought it out is because I have an SC300 that is an original 5-speed M/T which has the matching connector already built into the wiring under the center console. For those of us with SC's the alternative would be to use the easier to find automatic seat heat switches and just de-pin and re-pin into the larger connectors for that spec... or to just use another more plentiful Toyota connector set that accepts the same type of spades and receiving pins.
What year Toyota Tacoma do you have? Did it also use this specific connector? And what is the "RSCA" switch in your vehicle?
unclemat, welcome to CL! I would suggest you go to the sub-forum called Marketplace under the SC300/400 section and make a WTB (Want To Buy) ad there to request if anyone has this 5-speed M/T seat heater switch assembly or just the 90980-11099 connector. For Lexus vehicles this connector seems to be specific to the rare SC300/400 5-speed manual cars (or the Japanese market Toyota Soarer Z30 sister car). Thus it will be hard to come by used.
I can confirm that the 90980-11099 connector was discontinued at least as of July 2018 (but probably much sooner than that date).
The only reason I sought it out is because I have an SC300 that is an original 5-speed M/T which has the matching connector already built into the wiring under the center console. For those of us with SC's the alternative would be to use the easier to find automatic seat heat switches and just de-pin and re-pin into the larger connectors for that spec... or to just use another more plentiful Toyota connector set that accepts the same type of spades and receiving pins.
What year Toyota Tacoma do you have? Did it also use this specific connector? And what is the "RSCA" switch in your vehicle?
It's a 2012 TX Baja. RSCA stands for "Rollover Side Curtain Airbags". It prevents spurious deployment of curtain airbags when you end up at an extreme angle when off road. I want to relocate/change the switch to another location. The car harness uses female connector, the switch being male. If I can get hold of the connector you were looking for, I could make an extension harness. Bit OCD, I'll probably just tap into the wires.
Very nice!! A buddy of mine has done several seasons filming the Baja in Tijuana. Love the work that goes into those trucks! Will you be campaignng it again yourself?
I’ve read a lot about side curtain airbag issues with modern off-road trucks. These disabling switches are important. If you are looking for an alternative since the SC300 5-speed seat heat connectors are so rare I’d definitely suggest the matching seat heat connector housings from an Automatic SC. You would need to de-pin and re-pin but that would require the least amount of splicing work to make your patch harness. I’ll see if I can find any matching part number sets in my notes. Alternative to that there are many types of Molex connectors that include pins so that you can re-create the quick disconnect junction point that way.
I’ve come to distrust my SC’s reliability now. It just keeps throwing the curve *****.
The new SouthBend Stage 3 Daily clutch kit was scheduled to be installed after the holidays to cure my slipping issue from not enough clamping force (from the SB Stage 2 daily kit) but that is now on hold.
Last night out of nowhere I got another CEL 14 and the car kept shutting down every mile or so. My attempt to get it home failed. I had an old 1996 era igniter in the trunk that I knew was going bad and popped that in. I got a little further but it died of course. Had to push the SC part of the way with some friendly help from another driver. Tried the car again but once again, it died. I called in a flatbed AAA tow and got the SC home.
Speaking to Gerry and after letting my local senior Toyota mechanic know that the clutch job would have to wait there is the following consensus and suggestion:
—After burning up one used 1996 TT igniter, then a new TT igniter from Driftmotion (which I was not initially convinced was new— but it was), then a third one (last night) that I bought new direct from Toyota Japan... there is a clear pattern. An electrical short or bad ground somewhere in the engine harness wiring is causing these igniters, which should each last 20+ years, to each fail within only a few weeks.
—I will need to order a fourth new TT igniter.
—need to test the USDM OBD1 TT 6-speed m/t ECU currently in the car as well as a spare identical ECU that I have as a backup
—also need to perform a voltage drop test across all the coils to find where the bad ground or overload or short is coming from.
But the biggest tasks as I have discussed with Gerry last night:
—remove the entire engine harness and check ALL the wiring pertaining to the TT igniter and coil pack system. And repair anything not in accordance with the Toyota Supra TT 93-95 electrical diagrams. That’s a big one.
—pulling out all the stops, I may in the new year take my orginal un-modified 1993 SC300 5-speed CA-Emission engine harness and send that into Tweak’d or Wiring Specialties or Panic-Wire to have a completely new 100% stock (minus TRAC) USDM 2JZGTE stock sequential twin M/T w/EGR, two O2’s and all SC specific wirings made for me to replace the harness that I have made. That’s a good $1600 right there. Can’t do it right now but I’m seriously considering it now.
......
I was getting ready to make a big post on my findings for making the Beat-Sonic SLA-10B stereo adapter work with a manual up/down switch for the antenna but that’s going to wait too.
The rear diff was also going to be temporarily swapped out for a 3.92 open from an SC400 thanks to Gerry(!) so that I can get my Supra TT Auto Torsen LSD rear rebuilt back to the 3.769:1 ratio... but that’s also now on hold.
I figured I was close to done now with only a couple of things left but... damn it... my SC felt that this was the best Christmas present it could give me.
At least mechanically, apart from the current slipping clutch, it’s doing very well.
If I’m honest, 85% of my issues since getting the GTE swapped in have been electrical and engine harness related. This setback is no exception. As thorough as I have tried to be so far it isn’t thorough enough.
Thankfully I’ve got another vehicle I can borrow for at least the next week or so. Since it’s nearly Christmas, this helps tremendously
I’m not going to stress myself with diagnosis until after the 25th. Until then, I’m going to enjoy the holiday season
Another brand new TT igniter is now on order from Driftmotion. I will not be using it until I've identified and corrected the electrical issue one way or another. Four igniters is enough. I only plan to buy one more in the coming year to keep as a long term future spare replacement unit years from now. There is NO normal electrical operating condition under which I should have had this many ignitor failures... or any ignitor failure with the hypothetical possibility of the really old 1996 vintage unit I had at first used simply due to its extreme age and mileage.
But even then... it shouldn't have had a failure. These things last decades from new unless something electrical is clearly wrong. With a pattern in my car's ignitor system clearly having been established by now... the issue has to be found and fixed. Or the entire harness needs to be replaced with a freshly made one.... whichever achieves the reliable result from here on out.
I'm not getting into this now but for those curious (and to keep active chronological notes for myself to refer back to in this thread), here are the simplified and complete electrical diagrams for the igniter system in a 1995 USDM Supra TT. As you can see it's not *that* complicated. But it needs to be electrically sound.
I know I have extensively verified and repaired a lot of the coil connections in past weeks/months and I can refer back to those notes before opening up the harness. But we'll see.
The health of the ground connection to the front side of the intake manifold is one of my first suspicions and a fairly easy one to get to to check out and test with a voltage drop test.
Then there's making absolutely sure, as Gerry has strongly suggested to me to do, that my current TT main ECU is in good health as well as my spare TT main ECU that I have never run in the car before (and which I still haven't had checked or serviced for any potential capacitor issues-- my current ECU was capacitor serviced by Driftmotion many months ago prior to my installing it in the SC).
Anyway, electrical diagrams always make things visually clearer
(as follows below for the USDM 1995 Toyota Supra Turbo's igniter and coil system)
12-04-18, 09:07 AM
