I know it is pricey ! Exactly the reason I did that thread to help people save that money. Afterall they have the SC harness and the Aristo harness from the 2jzgte swap already. All they need to do is work on them.

Let me tell you this, Pin 4 which is a GROUND is not found on many harnesses and IS NOT A MUST. It is just another added ground since these engines are very sensitive to having grounds meaning you don't have the right ground, freaking engine won't start. You don't really have to wire one to that pin. Some 2jzgte engines like those from Aristo just happen to have it and USDM cars with 2jzgte do not have it.

Yes 69 is not connected to 79 & 80 on the harness or ECU but since they both bolt to the intake manifold .. one front and one rear side... they get connected, once installed.

 

DUDE way to burst my bubble ! LOL~
Well we will put it on … just to see, can't hurt , right?

We will pin it & clip lead it to gnd .. if no change we can just tie it back with shrink…

At the time ( Or so the thinking went ) I wanted to minimize down time…
That worked well…
DO'H!

So about the MIL ( check engine light ) that SHOULD come on with the key on.. regardless of ECU state of learning.. or not.

Mike

 

lmaol ... sorry man... didn't mean to offend you ! You are not alone. Many of us, that includes me, learned the hard way. Unfortunately there are pieces of sh?t out there who will take advantage of it for their personal gain . On the positive side of it, we are forced to learn and save actually in the long run. In a way , even probably need to thank these pieces of sh?t even if they don't deserve it.

I am telling you though, since you have a USDM ecu, you don't need that pin 4 to be grounded. That is not your problem. Though as you said it doesn't hurt to try . MIL will come on if every wiring from the Engine harness that where meant for the diagnostics was properly wired to the different SC body plugs.

 

HUZZAH grounding pin 4 = MONEY
We have a MIL light in ON

and with the jumper codes 21 & 27 !


BOOYAH

( no offense taken in the slightest !!!! )

Mike
Divin under the hood~

 

good for you...

oxygen sensor codes... you need a lot of them in CALI...lmaol.

 

So we were checking for spark.. and the damn thing tried to FIRE OFF WOO HOOOOOO!

Baby's first CRY……

21) Main O2 ( no one home )
27) Rear one ( No one home )

Which is correct~ neither are currently connected !

So David's doing under the hood stuff.. I have to go to the market

MORE TO FOLLOW… but LIGHT at the end of the tunnel~

 

vigman, welcome to CL...a lot of knowledge here, as you can already see. Gerrb is working his magic again! Also clean looking swap, check out the other DIY here as well. Wish you all the best with the final pieces of this build and to get this thing running, so it can get tuned. Afterwards, time to have some fun!

steve

 

Thank you Steve!

The " afterwards" will all be the Son's fun……..Unless he takes the Ol Man on a store run!
The 1JZ was a monster with really LOW gears in the back.. can't wait just to get it running with the 2JZ..

So I had to make the market run with my GF.. and left David on his own...

BUT DISASTER……

A SOLID WIN with the electronics ! Sttil only the 2 codes 21 & 27 but it's still on jacks.

FAIL #1 WATER IN THE OIL after less than 2 minutes of idle time and some 1500 RMP & HOLD David noticed FAIR amount of water coming out of the overflow catch can.. so he shut down… the coolant had oil in it.. and the dipstick was a light tan / vanilla milkshake. We did a quicky compression test ~ 155 +/- 5 psi and the leak down was ~ 10 % so VERY solid numbers.. and NOTHING pointing to a cylinder head leak. David is off to Auto zone to get new oil,filter, coolant AND rent a radiator pressure test kit.. more to follow.

Fail number 2 ( and this is add insult to injury ).. Post shutdown the check engine light stopped working… FFWWAAAKKK.. Well the GOOD NEWS it was just the bulb…. hooking up an external LED test probe we got the " light " and it flashed codes.. we then use an OL SKOOL test light ( hooked to positive ) and that was HAPPY…

So based on the NUMBERS ( so far ) I do not THINK we have a head gasket issue… maybe oil cooler??

Thought's?

 

Can you tell which blend is darker & richer?
We now have an LED in for the MIL light YEAH! Works agin~

Interior wiring … we're all over it… almost

Next stop, bypass engine oil cooler on side of block, complete oil change, finish spraying the battery hold down clamp…
and I think that's it for today ~

 

where the hell did you get that engine ?...with the looks of that oil , it looks like someone poured water / coolant inside. Your compression and leak down numbers doesn't point to a bad head gasket . Did your coolant level go low ?

 

The oil was CLEAN and the coolant was GREEN prior to todays fire up....
I won't mention names.....

Coolant came out of the overflow catch can.. I'm not sure EXACTLY how much .. I wasn't here...'But there was about a quart of something that added to the oil...

Which matches what we had to use to top the radiator to see how much went elsewhere....

we have a new load of oil in there.. and I just heard it fire up ( I told David to run it up for 30 sec ) just to push all the FUNK out.... and this is the CHEAP OIL 1st flush..... ( No coolant in the system )

Tomorrow he will pull the Oil cooler on the block...and we will inspect that...
WHICH I HOPE IS THE ISSUE~

 

Well.. oil was clean as you said and compression were good so engine was good wherever you got it .

Only two places where coolant will get into the oil passenges and pan.. head gasket and that oil cooler.

 

We JUST put the head on 10 days ago... another part of the "saga".... ( don't ask ) ..
New toyota copper gasket, ARP hardware, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.. and the head was JUST reworked...

I would ASSUME the compression & leakdown would show the suspect... we even pressurized #6 up to 100 PSI...
to see if air was escaping into the cooling system... the ONLY leak we heard was air leaking past the rings...

 

Made the Harbor Freight run + 25% coupon got the 18 bit cooling system pressure tester....
David has school today so not sure if there will be any forward motion.

I gotta say he has become quite the wrench.. and has done 99% of the work.
And with ALL the Oh By the ways... ( read * EPIC SAGA* )
1 Proud Poppa~

 

I just got some professional advise....
The head gasket can be installed one of 2 ways.
BUT MUST be installed 1 way.
It is possible to install it upside down.
The key is the gasket numbers stamped in the copper MUST wind up facing UP and the extension with numbers must be visible on the pass side of #6.

The gasket , at first glance has no TOP marking and looks symetrical...it's not!

So 50 / 50 shot of IF it's in correctly or not..

Mike