vigman

Fans working again and we identified the " extra " wiring so when the AC compressor kicks on ( when we have all that back together ) the fans will kick back on. When we did all the harness swap we lost our switched power feed to the relays for the coils.

The water temp gauge doesn't work…. So here's MY question does anyone actually KNOW the resistance value of the STOCK lexus sender ( 92 SC300 ) VS Stock 2JZGTE 95 TT engine… All this VOODOO about just stick X value resistor in series just doesn't fly with me.

A sender SHOULD BE X resistance when COLD and Y resistance when hot…

We will start testing that later today.. Then I feel David will have to make a Pick your Part run for some MIsc connectors for all the O2 " stuff "….

vigman

2/22/15 SOUP-EX punch list

1) R & D for factory temp gauge ( Sender & wiring issues )
2) Front O2
3) EGR temp sender ( Connectors )
4) EGR VSV solenoid
5) FPR VSV solenoid
6) Reverse lights switch wiring on trans
7) Speed sensor on trans
8) Build rear O2 sensor harness
9) AC system evac & charge…. hook up compressor wiring to fan finish system.
10 ) Air temp intake sensor
11) Bleed brakes
12) Fix leak in front tire
13 ) Make appt to have exhaust done and cats installed
14 ) Get permit to move car around
15 ) First attempt on smog ( Make appt )
16) Put rest of interior back together

vigman

Still waiting on a call from the smog ref….
Ordered 2 missing VSV's
50 state " approved " K&N air cleaner arrived.
Front & rear O2 arrived.
Ordered Lexus gauge temp sender to do R&D.

So the car made it's first TRIP to my son's school…
Made it THERE with no issues…
There was much OHHHHing & AWWWWW ing
But on the way home the ALT took a dump and the car ran out O juice less than 2 blocks from the house…. ( Easy recovery though ) BOOOOO Hissssssss.
David went out and got a HI AMP rebuild .. so that needs to be chucked in.



Speedo works, but the gear ratio is incorrect on the sender.
Car ONLY makes BOOST in 3rd gear ( odd )

So progress

vigman

David's alt was just FRIED internally.. now HIGH output one is installed.

Toyota no longer carries the EGR VSV 17630-46060 DAMN!

No joy on a NEW female 4 pin connector for the O2! YET

Set with Canyon muffler IF the ref calls back today or EARLY tomorrow.. The muffler shop needs the CORRECT CARB number for the STATE approved CATS…PPFFTTTHHHH

and to add insult to injury
Didn't get a call back from the Smog ref... called the HOT LINE up the original dude put in the HOME number instead of the cell DERP!
BUT The E mail from the " dispatch " to Pierce college was down Monday & Tuesday So the inspector didn't KNOW I was waiting for a call back... 2 MORE days..PPPFFFFTTTHHHH.

vigman

EGR VSV work around…. I THINK

EGR VSV 17630-46060 Is NLA so I whipped out the books..
David went to pick your part and scored a 90910-12127

NO "A" no "B"

Which is different then the others I have seen, it doesn't have a rear vent…
and all the PIX's I have seen the FACTORY one doesn't have a vent either...

It's a 12 volt coil ( polarity on the pins doesn't matter ).
It's a normally CLOSED solenoid ( no power no vac flow )
The mounting tab is not correct BUT the ports & connector point UP instead of sideways…
BUT it looks like the solenoid attaches to a sub bracket.

The key ways didn't line up from the connector to the solenoid but a little dremel action made THAT problem go away.
The 2 wires are
PINK which goes to the ECU
It needs a LOW ( GND ) from the ECU ( 40 pin connector E-9 ) pin 75

Black / Red which is the 12 volts from the O2 power crkt..

According to the book ( 95 TT FSM ) the only time this solenoid operates is when the engine is up to temp and your around 15~ 1800 RPM….

My ONLY concern is vac trapped in the valve ( in a closed test ) stays in the valve.. but I BELIEVE
the VENTING happens in the EGR Vac modulator.. I will report back if this works~

vigman

AND since I cannot post yet in the classifieds ( NOOB ) if ANYONE has the "CORRECT" VSV I would be happy to BUY IT, TRADE IT .. and donations are gladly accepted..

And the REF didn't call yesterday DAMNIT~

Thanks
Mike

vigman

Well something annoying happened… David wen't in to fix some wiring on the pass side.. and now the check engine light no longer works.. AND 1/2 the cluster doesn't back light….

I proto typed a little cluster test harness and we had a " spare " Read really beat up cluster.. which I re lamp-ed.
There are divisions internally between left center & right of the cluster illumination INTERNALLY BUT when it gets beck out to the connectors, I cannot re create just 1 side not being lit up.

Additional… the silkscreen on the PCB doesn't match the Shop manual !!!

From left to right viewed from the back it's " A" - "C" -"B" Weird….

None the less I was able to also get the temp gauge working.. but I stopped prior do doing the SCIENCE
( which will happen today )

vigman

2 hrs tearing into my son's instrument cluster… bulbs replaced 4
COMPLETE PITA to get to the 4 bulbs !!!
PLUS the LED's were not QUITE the correct base, which made for more intermittent contacts.
AND these are single point LED's so it's hot spot city and looks like ****E~

So now the NEXT issue…" R-109 ". I have 2 gauge clusters
In one R 109 has been jumped
in the other it has a 33K resistor
Anyone have a "STOCK" cluster and can tell me the factory value ?

Both gauges SORTA work
The Jumped one when powered up on a COLD sender goes to about 1/3 and with no sender ~ 1/4
The 33K version SEEMS to be closer.
Swapping / jumping that resistor affects the bias of the meter circuit ( which is a silly design ) and sets the cold point…. If you put an ohm meter across R-109 you get a negative deflection on the temp meter.

So without knowing the CORRECT value, I cannot redesign the circuit

HELP!!

Mike

vigman

Test conditions:
To power up the cluster on bench,
+12 volts
1 "C"
11 "C"
11 "A"
14 "A"

Gnd
22 "C"
23 "C"
10 "C"
6 "B"

Now using a 250 ohm wire wound pot to "emulate" the sender
the wiper of the pot ties to
21 "C"
the other side of one leg of the pot ties to ground

Gauge needle at:
1/4 = 140 ohms
1/2 = 81 ohms
3/4 = 27 ohms
Last hash ( before red ) 22 ohms
TOP ( overheat ) 20 ohms

NOW jumping R-109 changes only the low travel on the scale
so 1/4 now is 150 ohms
AND
with no sender the needle comes up to the top of the C in COLD


Taking a Intermotor TS-61 sender I had laying about
All measurements are in F
Laser thermometer & heat gun used for temp testing
73 deg = 500 ohms
106 deg= 30 ohms
120 deg = 15 ohms
130deg = 10 ohms

So not the right curve for this sender….
Assuming water temp of 180 is WAY less than 2 ohms which puts the needle pointing straight up

Next step.. I have a Lexus temp sender coming AND a Supra sender as well

Just some preliminary data…..

Mike

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

vigman, this thread and your build are amazing. You're performing exactly the same swap I am (and for exactly the same reason-- being smog legal and BAR certified). After catching up on your last couple of pages I checked my current USDM TT parts collection and realized I am also missing the crucial EGR VSV. I have the EGR, pipe and flying saucer shaped brown module next to it but I completely missed that part in my research and purchasing.

I've sent an inquiry to an importer to see if it can be sourced directly from Japan. I will let you know what they tell me this week.

Subscribed and following this! Your son will have quite a car when all is said and done!

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

A couple of thoughts come to mind as well since you're visiting the BAR soon:

1.) I am very curious to know what happens either way with your front mount IC. Appendix K of the smog manual previously has been interpreted to say that aftermarket replacement IC's on factory turbocharged cars are allowed and that no CARB number is required. However, going by the letter I am not sure if this applies to cars that weren't turbocharged from the factory originally. It seems to be a gray area (regardless of how many front mount IC cars you see driving around L.A.). I've opted to pick up an OEM MKIV TT SMIC and all the factory piping for my swap. However, they are not making them any longer and the price for one of the remaining ones from Toyota is insane ($2600 or so).

IF you should run into some trouble with that and are given the ultimatum that it has to be changed, SpeedForSale has an MKIV TT aftermarket SMIC available (not CARB approved but it's in the factory location) and there is also the unicorn UK-sourced Chris Wilson SMIC (same; never CARB approved but factory located). There was also an SMIC for TT's made by Greddy years ago but by all accounts it actually performed worse than the factory SMIC.

With any luck you won't encounter any issue over the FMIC.

2.) I've been concerned that the factory TT TRAC connector on the throttle body being disconnected might be an issue of contention regardless of whether it's hooked up or not. Maybe this isn't an issue for you if you are using the Aristo GTE throttle body rather than a USDM version.

3.) Your finding that there are actually TWO USDM MKIV TT wiring harnesses aside from Auto or M/T was very surprising. My understanding was that all 93-95 and 96-98 TT's were all 50-State Emission compliance cars whereas Non-Turbo Supras had Federal and Cali versions. I was surprised you were even able to buy a "Federal" TT 6-speed harness from Toyota. I thought all TT's had the three 02 sensor locations.

vigman

Kahn… Nice to know there is someone CRAWLING up the same mountain …
I know that there are a few legal California TT's swaps out there….

I think you will have an issue getting the EGR VSV from Japan.. my "limited" understanding is they didn't use that setup.

I am aware that there are 2 versions of the EGR temp sensor ( and not sure what version I have )…

My next " quest " of the obscure is, i THINK we are missing 1 additional VSV down by the water pump and I have to chase that down.. and my ONLY clue is the colors on the harness for a socket that has no home and 3 cryptic vac routing diagrams showing a 2nd VSV….

The REF at Pierce college, is a very reasonable motor head and rules with a fair hand so we will see about the FMIC. I went through him for my 92 300ZX TT swap and everything I was noted on was VERY REASONABLE.

I do have an odd question about the Lexus vac canister There is 1 pipe coming up from the bottom that bends 90 deg and just stubbs off.. It LOOKS like there should be just a vent cap at the top but it's just an open hose..
I plan to look at the system today ( as I wait for that call ) …..

As far as the 3 O2 sensors.. I only see ECU pin outs for 2 40 pin .. E9 47 & 48 ?
Our engine is a 95 ( early ) no VVIT….

That harness came from the " vendor" we got the engine from.


So the next bits we have to unwind

Get the CARB #'s for the " approved pre cat & main cat "
Get that new ( er) exhaust plumbed in and the bung for the 2nd O2
Find a 4 pin female so we can make the extension harness & plug it in.
and that will kill our 1 last code of " 27 "…

Then it's back to finishing the interior and other less dramatic stuff..
I HOPE we can wrap this bit up by this week but hey I'm an optimist ~

Mike

vigman

I have the USDM throttle body… but no TRAC " computer " and the ABS has been completely wonked...

vigman

QUESTIONS and answers
AKA lack of help from CARB
I got the guy from LA to return my call today.
And it sounded like he was not having a great Monday...

The first point was …
Sir I really cannot advise you without the car in front of me.

Q) Need the correct CARB # for the pre & main cats for replacement, could you confirm this ?
A) I do not have that information in front of me, but the correct cats for the " ENGINE " are what is correct and your muffler shop should be able to tell you.

Q) 2) Confirming the 2nd O2 sensor goes in front of the main cat.
A) What ever it shows in the shop manual for the engine exhaust will be how we judge it.

Q) I have a K&N air cleaner, model #57-9004 which has a carb letter and this numberCARB E.O. # D-269-3, will this be OK?
A) If it is for a 95 supra turbo, yes.

Q) 4) Do we need the Supra twin turbo charcoal canister or will the lexus do?
A) Again sir without seeing the car, I cannot advise but I would assume you would need the Supra twin turbo one.

Q) We have an after market front mounted intercooler, will this be a problem?
A) We see so many of these just hacked in, and really poor plumbing so if it has proper piping & couplings ( clamps not duct tape )
and no weird after market sensors to disturb air flow, you SHOULD be fine.

Followed by just make an appointment for the 2 hr " engine exchange inspection" and we will point out what you need, or do not need to do..

So I called the appointment line the EARLIEST is the week of the 16th thru the 19th. The 1st appt is at 7:20 AM and the last is 2:45PM
I'm letting David handle this.

Oh and a CHEAP alt Carbon canister Supra TT
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 4B1241 More Info **#7774014471, VC4164} $150

Next Auto Club

He didn't non op when the Reg expired in Feb 14, $306.00 to make the car current.
AND they only can give out 2) 24 hr operating permits prior to failing smog.. then he can get a 30 day pit pass.


Muffler shop
Canyon Muffler Eric the DUDE~661-251-5544
Pre cat Magna flow 337305 EO D193-102 $250
Main cat Magna flow 338135 EO D193-102 $250

Misc piping and brackets, bung " Oh by the ways " using existing $100.00

600 + the GOV-MEANT's cut

vigman

David went for an extended drive today for BURN IN …
1) Heater doesn't work properly ( No detail )
2) Low Oil light flickers at random ….( thinking bad sender )
3) AC isn't charged ( so driving in humid rainy conditions left fogging on windshield )
4) It made it back & forth ~ 12 mile trip and no more charging issues.