vigman

Hi guys !
TOTAL NOOB to the forum.. but a lurker for a while.

Intro into "OUR REALITY"

The story so far...
I'm a retired electronics engineer.
My son 3 years ago bought this car as a FIXER.. it had a 1jz swap and NFW would it pass CA emissions..EVER.. So being the cool dad ( and wanting to have another tinker toy ).

I offered up to buy all the "STUFF".. Which we started chalk boarding ~ 2 years ago.

The "REQUIREMENTS" 100% Stock till we could pass smog.. past that point.. bolt up would be OK.. with the idea every 2nd year, it's gonna have to PASS emissions. The car has a 5 speed in it.. I did a NA to TT swap on my 91 300ZX and went through all the smog ref stuff.So I know the drill.

What we purchased from a "company"...
1995 2JZGTE USDM head, intake & JDM bottom.
ALL emission's "STUFF" to be CALIF legal
ARP studs, new head gasket
Head reworked, good used bottom, cleaned up , new oil & water pump seals, timing belt tensioner,JDM used turbos, New Toyota wiring harness & 6 speed manual ECU ( yes I know I could have gotten the tweaked harness for ALOT LESS ) Yada,Yada,Yada..
What I was EXPECTING was a turn key engine in a box.

I paid my money...I took my chances.

April 2013.. It delivered to the shop we were going to make the swap

4th of July weekend we pulled the 1JZ engine out and got as far as we could stuffing the 2JZGTE back in before we had to tow the car home.

My son has been doing the majority of the "work"...
I have been laying out the harness conversion UNTIL I FOUND OUT TOYOTA DIDN'T CARRY THE MATING PLUGS TO MATCH MY HARNESS..FFWWWAAAAKK.

So we bought another SC-300 engine harness so we could splice into the Toyota NEW harness so all the connectors could plug in and not HARD WIRE. Which led to completely understanding of the engine management "WIRING".... 5 days & 12 pages of spread sheet later...

We have everything mapped, soldered, tested , checked & re checked.

This car WAS a daily driver, but it was having an extended hospital stay..
There was ALOT of correcting previous owners electrical AND mechanical issues..

So End of October the LAST bits N pieces arrive... minor detail stuff..

We TRY to crank the engine over.. NADA... no solenoid power.... 20 minutes later.. she cranks..
BUT SOUNDS ALL WRONG.....

When the valve job was done, the valves we not tipped properly... so most valves were stuck open.... SLIGHTLY... but ZERO COMPRESSION...

Fast forward to 2 days ago entire engine is put back together after MORE machine work.

Compression tests are now all good EXCEPT #6 exhaust ( forward valve ) had a bad hiss on leakdown testing due to WAY TO MUCH LAPPING COMPOUND LEFT IN /ON THE SEAT.1
NOW we have good compression on all 6 143 +/-4 psi and leakdowns are respectable.

In October we also had the following " issues"
1) No spark
2) No fuel injection pulses
3 No check engine light

Well #2 I didn't know we needed a dropping resistor.

We tested the Check engine light circuit down to the ECM pin... and when we ground THAT pin ( ECU OUT of circuit ) The light light's! but NO CEL

We now have the dropping resistor for the INJECTORS.. And the + side is getting power BUT THE - ( control side ) is tapping out morse code.. ... long short... pause ... a series of 3 randon timing pulses... just AFU,,,,,,,,and this is with Ignition ON and engine NOT cranking.

AND NO SPARK...

So here is my best guess.. the ECU is CRAP....
We opened it up, no puffy caps, no burnt traces, no " smells "...


Questions ( If you made it this far )

1) Will an AUTO ECU work for purposes of just test firing the engine ?

2) Internal of the ECU there are 2 PROMS.. do these control the personality of the ECU?
eg I'm an NA AUTO, I'm a TT AUTO, I'm a TT 5 speed etc etc....


HELP!

Thanks
Mike

vigman

1) 4 th of July weekend 1JZGTE coming out.
2) What's in the crate?
3) A month after coming back from the shop.
4) 3 days ago
5) Fun with connectors

vigman

Additional mods… the car has a complete Supra rear end, lightweight drive shaft, big fuel pump…
We have TON's of sweat equity in the car . Have learned a TON but no heart beat… YET!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Welcome to the forum !

Yes an auto ECU would work to get the car started / running.

Good Luck !

btw...what injectors and resistor pack do you have ?

vigman

It's the factory resistor pack…. and we haven't had time to pop the injectors out of the rail ( didn't have O rings at the time ).. I'm sure this doesn't help but they are light blue. The REQEST was to have USDM STOCK sized…
Gerrb, THANK YOU for the welcome.. Aren't you MR WIRING HARNESS GUY!?!? THANK YOU for that thread..
It made my BAD DECISION to buy a factory harness ( Which Toyota doesn't sell the mating ends, anymore ) a ton easier..
THANK YOU!

Mike

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

My pleasure, Mike. I am glad that thread is a big help to some people. Indeed working on your own harness can save you tons of money. Doing a harness should be an easy task for you being an EE. The USDM 2jzgte injectors which are blueish/purpleish in color are 550cc and indeed you will need the resistor pack. One pin of each injector goes to the resistor pack and the common of that resistor pack goes to a +B supply and the other pin of each injector goes to the ECU.

vigman

Fun @ A&K Frame & Body ( Which is now closed) Ritchie retired……

2013 4th of July weekend WOOOO HOOOOO

1) engine being " prepped " off site at " builders.
2) Cherry picker BAH FORK LIFT YEAH
3) 1JZ on the ALMOST OUT.. We did a total noob stupid and didn't know the magic of removing the clutch pivot arm PRIOR to pulling the engine DERP!
4) A new grip on life...

vigman

Gerrb,

Oh I get it… NOW.. I was so OBSSED on getting all the I/O right under the dash.. and I ***-U-MED the resistor pack SHOULD have come with the harness >>>BBBZZZTTTTT<<<<<< WRONGO.

So just for a TEST FIRE all I really need to make the ECU come alive for POWER & GND is..
Main B+ ( batt ) (E-10-33) and switched B+(E-10-1) all grounds ( E-10-4 ) ( E-9- 69-79-80 )

Plus the main EFI relay pulls in when we switch the key on.

The Starter wiring to the solenoid is bypassed for P/N switch or clutch in ( depending on your flavor ride ) .
So the engine cranks fine.

So all those conditions met, with the key ON the MIL ( check engine light ) SHOULD come on ?
RIGHT??

Mike

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

My bad, I probably am not understanding you well. What kind of harness did you start with ? Did you say you bought a brand new USDM 6 speed harness and an extra used SC300 (auto or 5 speed) harness ? Then grafted the body plugs / other SC connectors into the USDM 6 speed harness ?

If you had a USDM 6 speed harness then that resistor pack wiring should already be there.

Power to the ECU is supplied through pins 31 to33 of the 40 pin connector . Grounds are Pin 4,69,79 & 80 of the 80 pin connector.

With regards the check engine light ..did you wire the necessary wirings fom the harness to the SC300 body plugs that goes to the dash board / gauge ?

vigman

1) and parts keep coming out……
2) By Mid afternoon with 100+ degree days… We started to fade.. a bit.
3) Yeah about the arm we should have removed.. Well another way to do it was remove the pressure plate… DO' H!
4) The 1JZ finally out and back to our house.. BTW it found a good home in a Miata!

kez

iTrader: (4)

Welcome to the forums

Resale on the 1jz is going to bring some quick cash

vigman

Correct we start with TOY 82121-14880 Federal 6 speed 93.5 to Jan 96 ODB-1 ) Not cal spec ( GRRRRR ) Just found that out!!!!

THEN we bought a used 92 SC-300 engine harness. Cut the supra females
IJ1 Gray supra 20 pin, IJ-2 White supra 20 pin, II-1 supra Orange 38 pin. II-2 supra White 12 pin.

AND GRAFTED TO SC 300 females
IJ-1 Lexus Dark gray 14 pin, IJ-2 Lexus Dark gray 17 pin, IK-1 Lexus Orange 23 pin, IK-2 White 25 pin and II-2 White 12 pin

There is a scramble sheet in XL of all the cross connect for each connector.

Making sure I understand
When you say 40 pin ( ECU ) you mean E-10
same with the 80 E-9 ( ECU )

Yeah no that resistor wasn't " included" ( Insert cursing here ) and the 1JZ didn't have/ need an external one.. so got blind sided there.

POWER
You say
Power to the ECU is supplied through pins 31 to 33 of the 40 pin connector .

I say ( and I was unclear, sorry )
Main B+ ( batt ) (E-10-33)
and switched B+(E-10-1)
E-10 31 & 32 heat up when the EFI relay pulls in ….
( So this is correct I think )

You say
Grounds are Pin 4,69,79 & 80 of the 80 pin connector. ( E9 )

I say
all grounds ( E-10-4 ) ( E-9- 69-79-80 )
OOPS TYPO
E-10-4 STOP LIGHT INPUT
Correction E-9-4 is OUR 4th gnd

So we agree?

Thanks
Mike

vigman

Kez… In this great state of SMOG ***** and EWWW it's dirty under there & I might break a nail…

It didn't fetch much…. 650 and the guy was a motor head….
I consider it the cost of keeping my side yard clean and Karma points….

Which at least for THIS project haven't paid dividends …YET

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Got you... hahaha..you need more O2 sensors...I always wondered why CALI had to be different ?

Check well those wirings if that is the way you did it.. just getting the plugs from the SC harness. Supra wirings are partially different. I usually get all those SC300 connectors with their associated wirings and just merge them with that USDM harness. In that way, I know all my SC related wirings are all good and don't have to worry about the SC side.

Huh ? A USDM 6 speed 2jzgte harness without the associated Resistor Pack wiring included ? That is strange cause USDM 6 speeds have low impedance injectors. And I know you spent at least a grand on that freaking 6 speed harness.

YES we agree on these power / ground connectors & wirings.

Yes 40 pin is E-10 and 80 pin is E-9 but I don't use those nomenclature cause I have seen manuals referring the 80 pin as E-10 and the 40 pin E-9 . So there is no confusion, I always say 40 / 80 pin connectors.

vigman

I understand…… about the E9 & 10

$1300 + to be exact.. but hey live N learn…and no resistor pack.
I didn't know about tweaked or you at the time…
Hind sight is 20/20

I'm still dealing with the company who "provided" all these bits of wonderment, so we are still playing very nice.

On my 91 300ZX tt swap into a 2+2 a NEW wiring harness was the ONLY way to go …
Since every connector was char broiled to perfection~ If I knew THEN what I know NOW about YO POWER LOL~


So interesting potential development…

According to my son:
80- pin E 9 pin 4 has NO WIRE in the ECU harness!

I'm finding that hard to believe or LOT's of peeps would have a similar issue.. so I'm having a recount & inspection done… We have extra pins from the NA ECU connectors I hope these are the same…

BTW gnd's for 79 & 80 are bussed.
69 doesn't tie to that ground buss internal of the ECM.
Nor does 80 pin E-9 #4.

So an external gnd 4 places is a MUST HAVE…
Wouldn't that be nice if that WAS the issue? And we can fire it up today?!!

Oh wait Murphy is at the front door BRB