Also in the processed of relocating the battery while I'm at it. I have never done this before so here is my initial designing and run through this isn't a finalized by any means.

[SIZE="4"]Any input on this subject would be awesome [/SIZE]

Here are a few things I picked up

•25ft of 0 gauge wire - oxygen free - $30 from a friend
• 8 x gold plated 0 gauge ring terminals - $2.5 each = $20
• 150 amp fuse - $10
• Isolation fuse box holder - $10
• 150 amp circuit breaker - $32
• Blue Sea Systems 5/16th power post - $26
• still looking for a nice metal battery box for my 35 series optima battery

The plan for this → Run 0 gauge wire into drivers side of car → connect the two positive oem terminals to the power post with the 0 gauge → run through the insideo f the drivers side of car → into trunk through oem grommet → then mount batter on passenger rear → connect the fuse and circuit breaker few inches from battery

Kind of a bad picture but I ran the 0 guage wire into the wire grommet above the main engine harness grommet on the drivers side of the car


Inside the engine bay


through kicker panel


besides drivers seat


Not sure how I feel about this

through rear panels


through oem grommet in rear


finally at finish

 

That's exactly the path I ran mine for one if my other cars. Except for the through the sheet metal bracket part. That's just doomed to fail later from chafing.

 

Oh goo, gonna change that did exactly like it,

How did you keep the 0 gauge wire in place? I feel like the zip ties are more temporary

 

Great progress man! I just read this all again. Question, in the post where your installing the drive shaft you explained the different steps to take depending on the 2JZGTE and SC400 etc. Can the 1JZ auto trans just bolt up to the auto SC400 shaft? I know your working on a 300 but I was just asking if you knew? I always thought I would need an SC300 shaft to use the 1JZ auto trans.. Thanks in advance.

 

The 1jzgte auto trans has a slip in shaft for the front and the usual bolt on to the differential
The sc300 is the same way, so I just used my oem sc300 drive shaft

the 2jzgte auto trans and the sc400s have the bolt style for both the fronts and back, I don't have a clue if the sc400 and 2jzgte have the same driveshafts, im sure they are probably different lengths

 

solder those crimp on ends on tne 0 gauge wire or the vibration will give you a loose connection over time... and its a better connection as that sleeve only touches the outside of the wire when you crimp. also those relay breaker things tend to break over time keep a spare handy or get one of those large mechanical fuses.

 

Noted, went through 2 tubes of solder but It feels and looks more solid. Heat shrinks also. Every connection in my car that I put in is soldered, heat shrinked, and make use of universal quick disconnects.



For the most part the battery relocation is complete and working. But I will order a nice metal optima battery box and bolt it to the chassis before she is road worthy. Right now my battery is just sitting on the factory amp.

The circuit breaker is a HUGE convenience factor when it comes to working on cars. I love pressing the little button. Just need to make a box to cover it incase something in the trunk presses it while I'm driving lol

For the negative ground. I reused the factory one. The two grounding points I chose I used my wire brush to get bare metal for the best grounding possible.

 

If you unbolt that bracket you'll be able to fit it in that little square at the bottom next to the bolt. I have two 4 gauge wiring (one for my audio system and one to power my air suspension), 12 gauge speaker wire, multiple ignition/accessory wires, and air lines ran through there, so 0 gauge should fit fine.

 

Went through this entire thread, impressive! Glad you're working another SC project...even better than before!

steve

 

If you want to minimize vibration use Adele clamps in place of your zipties, but zipties will suffice and will not bulge. As for consideration of 0 gauge wiring...

 

thanks, too much fun working on these cars can't get away.

Will have to take a look at this later honestly not sure what any of this means

So few updates on my build since I left off. The cold and month long rain has been slowing my progress. But got alot finished anyways and here I go

Going to start off this post with interior

[SIZE="4"]1jz swap temp sensor fix for the 97+ chassis, [/SIZE]

Not going to explain much because there is a nice thread on this original thread here

basically you need to do this
"In plug named in lexus service manual IK2 in 24 pin there is brown with black stripe wire. That wire is GROUNDED via engine harness in lexus."

But on the 97 chassis the wire is white with a black stripe. Its the wire second from top on the top right corner of the plug.



With that ground, I bled the radiator. For those who never bled a radiator it is simple.

Radiator bleeding notes
• with the car off
• remove the radiator cap
• lift up the left front side of the car with a jack
• turn the car on and turn the heat up all the way
• watch the coolant bubble in the radiator
• add more coolant as the radiator removes air
• once the bubbles seem to sop you are done
• should take about 10 minutes to do or so

[SIZE="4"][[COLOR="blue"]Carpet dyeing mod - Final/Complete [/SIZE]

Now that the temp sensor has been grounded it was time to start putting the interior back in. If you guys remember my rit dye attempt left the carpet all tie dye like from the atf left in the torque converter. Part of the black dye came out a really dark blue also. So using a can of duplicolor vinyl and fabric dye spray, I lightly touched up the carpet with a few light coats. The results ended up making the carpet look awesome.

Because the coats were light the carpet did not come out crusty at all. The carpet still felt like carpet. I left the carpet outside for like in rain and the duplicolor held up against the elements. So I'm pretty confident in this product.

Now for the pics - look at that carpet it would fool you that its not oem black.





With my sc430 steering wheel and air bag installed with passenger supra tan seat. Also finally installed my black ebrake handle

So this ends my modifications to the oem carpet.

Interior list to do - in order

• remove upper brown window trims and paint black
• remove and install my better tan door panels
• dye carpet in the tank black to match the other carpet
• figure out why the window regulators don't work
• modify center console trim to fit some gauges

[SIZE="4"]Trunk modifications continued... [/SIZE]

My optima batter box came in the other day.


It is nice and metal and fits nicely. Got it off ebay, its pretty nicely made.

For those wondering what battery I have its this group size 35 720 cca one

For this box, I still have to find a way to secure it to the chasis. Thinking about hacking up the oem amp bracket and bolting it to this box, that way it reuses the oem bolting points of the stock amp. Just an idea I'll update the thread once I finish

 

On another side note, I was able to get her out of the garage and driver her down the street some. Other than the nasty smoke coming from the exhaust wrap on the turbo manifold, my power steering pump seeming to be on its last leg, and the windows not going down, the car drives nicely.

 

looks good, the only advice on those circuit breakers I can give is to keep a spare, I have gone through like 3 of them cause the little switch brakes off or they just stop working in the open position. I moved to a heavy duty bolt on type of fuse so yeah, just keep a spare =)

 

that kind of scares me, does it just die on you while you are driving or something?

 

never happened while driving, its once you click it off when you go to turn it back on either that little plastic thing you have to turn breaks (lost one that way and used small pliers on it for a while to turn it until it just wouldn't turn far enough anymore), or the plastic thing will turn to on but it wont turn on internally (lost one like that also), and one time I had one burn out during cranking and then it also wouldn't turn on internally afterwards.
I did some reading online and those who have tested those things say they are not built very well and heat up alot etc.. I doubt they can handle the listed amount of amps for more than a few seconds without melting or failing.
It was sad news =( because I loved that convenience of turning it on or off but I ended up ditching it.

The convenience made me keep buying new ones, but after like $100+ into those breakers I decided they aren't built well and went to a heavy duty fuse that has given me no problems. I have my battery lines on those butterfly posts things so I just pull the line off now when I want to disconnect it. 30 more seconds but no chasing electrical issues. I hope you have better luck, but keep a backup I remember running all around town trying to find a fuse large enough to work the first 2 times it failed on me and I wanted to drive it.
Ended up going with an ANL fuse 200/250 amp with a fuse holder.