Darn I will keep that in mind, I Could Always just connect the wires if that an issue since I have a fuse already.

[SIZE="4"]Relocated battery mounting to the chassis - Final [/SIZE]

Well was able to get a couple things done since I last let off. I ordered that battery box for my optima and had no way of securing it to the chassis. So after some brain storming and measurements taken. The oem Amp and CD Changer bracket was almost the perfect size. Almost like lexus had intended me to buy an optima this battery box and mount it in the trunk lol

Side by side


Kind of a bad picture, but after removing the cd changer and amp, I put the bracket over the battery box and it was a near perfect fit.


To remove the center peice of the bracket, you just simply drill out the rivets and the center cover will come off. Simple and clean looking, you don't have to cut it off. Remember work smarter not harder guys . I circled the rivets below.


After removing the center piece I simple lined up the bracket sides to the battery box made sure they were even and drilled some holes.added some 10mm bolts and nuts and nice and secure it is

I did have to trim a piece of the right bracket off


Left went in smoothly


All nice and bolt on, this battery is not going anywhere


I did drill out one of the mounting bolt holes, it didn't line up perfectly. Other than that all nice and secure in the chassis


A few things left to do before this mod is complete.
•Need to secure all my loose lines in the trunk,
•cut and mode the oem trunk carpeting to fit the batter
•make a cover for the battery and circuit breaker so no incidents happen while I'm driving

So there was something I never had in any of the scs I have ever owned sadly. So this time I ordered a set of strong arm trunk shocks for $27 off ebay. I ordered the one made for the trunk with spoiler. Here is my install process for those who never installed them like me. Wasn't hard, especially since my tunk was already bare and open.



So here we go - [SIZE="4"]Trunk shocks installation [/SIZE]

You open the package and this is what you get
•New ball joint with washer
•New shock lift
•New retaining clips for the trunk lifts



Step 1 - Remove the old ball joints with a 12mm box wrench


Step 2 - Remove the retaining clip holding the trunk lifts on the other end
• using a flat head or pick just simply force the clip sides outs like what I have pictured

Step 3 - Install the new ball joints - I used a 11mm socket to get these on


Step 4 - Force the trunk lifts on, the ball joint part on the ball joint and retaining clip part on the bottom.

Success the trunk now lifts it self up when you pop it with the key or from the inside. No more 2x4s or ghetto ways to keeping it up.

 

I need to do this.

 

Back from the dead!!!!! Alot has happen in the 3 years since i last post on this thread.

First off wheels and coilovers!
Weds Cerberus 2
Front 19x10 245/30/19
Back 19x11 265/30/19

 

About a year later 2016ish? The motor finally let go after almost 5 years of ownership. Piston 3 decided to sling out bot sides of the motor while crusing one day. Luckily it was few miles from the house.




Pulled the motor out pulled the head off and here is what i found





back to being motorless agian lol


The block is now ruined, upper sump ruined, and possibly the head if the piston hit the head.

Time to go 1.5jz!!

 

With my automatic transmission slipping and block ruined I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone.

Luckily I had a buddy who was parting out a high mileage factory 5 speed sc300. I went over threw some money on his way and grabbed all the entire drive train along with the pedals and all.

Brought the motor home it was super dirty


After a quick pressure wash



On a tire in the garage for the time being once I plan out this build

 

Chris - don't waste your time on that W58 ... go R154 and just sell that trans . It will go quick . Then build that block !

 

Yea just driving like a grandma for the time being

Now for the motor build!

This motor is old with 20 year grime everywhere. While the motor is apart going to wire brush, clean and paint as many things as possible.

First the intake manifold

Before



After


Since the upper sump was destroyed with the block I pulled off the ge upper sump, drilled out the oil return hole, and had a -10 an bung welded to the upper sump. Also wire brushed the sump cleaned and painted it with high temp primer and high temp silver as well.



I put this motor together a year+ ago so here is a list of everything that went in there. Alot of these parts had to be replaced with 2JZGTE parts for the 1.5JZ GTE conversion so if youre gonig 1.5 you'll need to find all these parts as well.

• Block was dropped off to machine shop for the following
  • decking, honing, and hot tanked - $300
• Head was also dropped off to the machine for the following
  • decking and hot tanked - $200
• ACL Race Bearings - standard size
• OEM Rear Main Seal - 90311-90006
• OEM Front Man Seal - 90311-46001
• ARP head studs - 203-4205
• OEM 2JZ GTE Head Gasket - 11115-46052
• GSC Power-Division Viton Valve Stem Seals for 2jz
• 2JZGE Turbo feed set up
  • IS300 union bolt for turbo feed - thread is 1/8 BSPT (British standard pipe thread)
  • 1/8 NPT Female to 1/8 BSPT BSP Male Gauge Sensor Sender Adapter Reducer
    • This is to adapt 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT threading
  • Hydraulic Fitting Steel Adapter 1/8" Male NPT to -4 an Male
  • Stainless Steel Braided Line -4 an x 36" with 90 end Turbo oil feed
• 2JZGTE oil pump - 15100-46052
• 2JZGE LOWER TIMING BELT COVER - 11302-46031
  • the 1JZGTE lower timing cover is shorter than the block
• 2JZGTE water bypass pipe - 16268-46020
  • The 1JZGTE one is too short to reach the water neck on the head
• 2x Toyota Coolant pipe oring - 96761-24023
• 2JZGTE Upper water neck - part number unknown I got this used
  • the 1JZGTE water neck is too short to reach the coolant hose
• 2JZGTE water neck gasket - 16343-46030
• oring for the water neck - 96761-24023
• The coolant sensors on the 1JZGTE water neck will not work on the 2JZGTE water neck. You will need the 2JZ equivalents, I found mine at advance auto parts. I then used universal connectors to adapt the 1JZGTE harness to plug into the 2JZ sensors.

I am sure I re-used everything else



I also painted the block black




Brand new OEM Aisin Starter from rock auto while I was at it

 

Holy crap this thread is awesome. Bravo man! This is inspirational!

 

Thanks the car has come a long way since i last posted, working on catching this thread up

 

Bolted the head on the car and mocked up the turbo manifold to the car

Had to install 2 new valves on cylinder 3 due to the piston hitting the head. Other than a hot tank, decking, cleaning, and new valve seals, and a valve job that is all I did to the head. I'll install cams later, priority for this motor right now is just to get it to run like factory



Starting to look like a motor



motor into the car


The next morning turned her on and Pheonix lives!!!!


Victory pose

 

Back to the Supra TT wheels for the time being


Stay tuned, wheel widening of the Cerberus wheels in progress, wide body, new suspension bushings, and control arms!

 

Motor broken in Front Main Seal issues 1.0!

I broke in my motor and clutch by driving it like a grandma for 5 weeks straight on my work commute traffic and all. Everything seemed fine till I noticed smoke from under my hood and my oil light came on.

I pop the hood to find oil slung all around my engine bay and timing belt which im 99% sure its the front main seal



So there could be a couple things that could of gone wrong

• the front main seal was installed wrong by me, which is possible even though ive done this a few times already
• the cam seals may have blown, i feel this is highly unlikely as i can see my cam gears
• the oil pressure/crank case pressure may have caused it to leak
• crankwalk from the motor being torqued down wrong or something, very possible since this was the first time i've assembled a motor

So after towing the car home, its definitely the front main seal that is leaking. So I ordered and installed a new front main seal. Went for a test drive and everything seems peachy till a day later!

 

 

Yea Adam usually gets me moving on my builds plus with an extra set of hands we can do 2 things at once. With the sc300 being a project car and not a daily I feel lazy to work on the car for periods of time lol

 

Awesome how you kept the thread going. Good stuff and nice work.

Looking forward to seeing your continued progress!