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Hello everyone. Forgive me if I'm not in the right thread. I'm not at all good with computers. Anyway, I was wondering if it is possible to use the stock throttle body and its hardware on an aftermarket front facing intake. Also, would I need a custom filter and tube I attached an image so y'all can see what I'm talking about. It is not my picture. It is off eBay of what the product is.
You can also try searching with "FFIM" in short of Front Facing Intake Manifold, that's what most users commonly use in short. I had troubles searching for it before too!
And pertaining to your question, I only know that people would use the q45 TB/TPS or a Mustang TB(Throttle Body) instead. I feel that it would take plenty of fabrication to fit the stock throttle body and it's too big to fit on your FFIM comfortably.
Hello everyone. Forgive me if I'm not in the right thread. I'm not at all good with computers. Anyway, I was wondering if it is possible to use the stock throttle body and its hardware on an aftermarket front facing intake. Also, would I need a custom filter and tube I attached an image so y'all can see what I'm talking about. It is not my picture. It is off eBay of what the product is.
Not trying to be a negative Nelly but I've been in this Na-t game over 8 years and all I can say is I foresee a new motor or motor rebuild in your very near future..
Please take some constructive advice here , either do the Ali GTE ECU mode or get a standalone, anything else even at 6 psi can be fatal (saw a friend at only 5psi melt pistons as his 20yr knock sensor didn't pick up knock in time and when it did couldn't pull enough timing )
Even consider the new megasquirt pro 3 as its now pnp to 2jz motors and its extremely close in functionality and safeguards to pro efi but has faster processors and can be had for around 1500 which is far less in cost to rebuild ..i myself will be going that route as my tuner(one of the best in the country) has endorsed it and wants to tune it for me and he's a huge pro efi dealer
Ive been on aem v1 since 2008 and at 600rwhp since 2010 on pump 93 and still on original OEM block that came with this car.
I do respect your enthusiasm though ..
Alright I guess i'm lucky my damn engine is a beast. Its pushing over 10 pounds. its pinning my 10 pounds gauge pretty hard. I'm actually seeing really good A/F numbers on my wideband at wide open throttle 11-13. Normal driving as long as i'm on the gas a bit its happy and below 14.3 I attribute this to the location of my maf on the inlet side of the turbo.
My timing is pretty retarded i've retarded it from 10 degrees to 3. i've had no pinging so far =D
I've got my AEM F/IC-8 ordered and on the way... it was 550 looking at the boomslang harness for plug n playness for another 500. Damn thing is i think the transmission is the next limiting factor on the stock auto at 20 years old. I've only got another 2-3000 i could spend max on the car.
Sounds good so far but also know that too little timing can and will cause abnormally high egt temps and create other problems hence why timing on Na setup needs to be just right.
Checked my compression and cylinder leakage. All 6 at 175 comp and 0 leakage. Very happy with the results.
Does anyone use a stainless steel return line? I've got a two 90 degrees on the return to avoid heat from the headers coming out of the turbo and to go in to the pan cleanly. Everything seems to be fine but I'd rather not develop a problem.
My boomslang got here. still waiting on aem fic 8 and the 1/8th in bsp pipe fittings for the boost control solenoid.
so no check engine light but when i went to set my timing i got a code 12.. something with my rpm signal? AM i just boosting to hard and the rpms are going up to fast =P no check engine light after i disconnected the paperclip
GOT my AEM F/IC 8 today. It starts right up with the by pass connectors and the boomslang harness But car won't start with the FIC plugged in.
I loaded the base tune map and the car starts for all of half a second before dying.
Anyone got any base maps that might let me get some base readings?
I've got my moms is300 and was thinking about plugging a scan tool into that and setting my table values basically off that. My sc is a 95 and i can't plug into it to get a working base map going on my car.
All the values are set to 0, Which i thought means no change from the stock values. I could be wrong here?
i tried setting up a table for my maf let me know what you guys think i should clarify my car runs good now on stock ecu boost controller at 8 pounds only problem is it dies once its warmed up after boost if i dont keep my foot on the gas slightly. thus only wanting to adjust the maf at the moment. First couple hours with the fic give me a break and help me out <3
Would love any advice
Unrelated but my boost controller is working strangely(just got the fittings in mail) or i think my transmission may be slipping =\ just started feeling weird shift or boost cut around 4500 when im on it and seems like in the later gears.. not sure might drop the pan i think if i don't notice anything strange in the fluid when i drain it.
Got the car running today, I had to change the frequency map because my karmen vortex is frequency based. Running rich at the moment need more fine tuning.
here's the frequency map that got me started I'll keep you guys posted i only worked on it for a few hours after school today
Honeslty I'm a little overwhelmed and am unsure how to tune the car with so many variables. Can i tune it all based on the MAF frequency and fuel adjustments? why use the o2 map? i've got my wideband i can see. Should i tune off the f/ic's MAP sensor? when is the maf good enough and i should move on to the map? or are they not interchangeable?
I realize asking you guys for help on a system that isn't the most common is a long shot but i'm also calling AEM tomorrow and going to see if they can give me the answers i need.
I'm so stupid. Trying to adjust the MAF frequency manually. There is a Percent option so i set it to 1.2% more and its running great again.
Boost controller kicks on at 6 pounds and is on full at 10 pounds. Car pulls hard still but its running rich as hell in open loop. 11-13 afr.. This is too be expected. Really pulls though and my auto transmission is holding up well.
I found a post that let me know i could use a paper clip to jump the O1 and O2 pins in the engine bay port and just use 1 sensor. This solved my issue of my wideband O2 only having 1 narrowband output. http://forum.clubna-t.com/archive/index.php/t-4048.html
It runs 12s under hard acceleration 14.3-15.3 cruising and 15-16 under light acceleration with the O2 mod in but occasionally goes to 17 for a half second sometimes.. stuff i don't like.. I'm going to add fuel with the AEM FIC in closed loop (o2 connected) and see if it works better than taking it away in open loop (o2's unpluged) I have yet to throw an o2 code with them unplugged btw..
With the aem and the best tunning i can do ive got it running good until wot. it like hesitates around 5000 5400 and 6000, and sometimes at idle it just stops seeing MAF frequency in and the car almost stalls.... I'm not sure if it's a defective FIC or what because im using a boomslang i know its not my connections...
With the O2's removed and the FIC removed it runs great under wot but consistent 10 afr during normal driving. Waiting for some bosch o2's coming saturday and I'm going to try it without the fic but with o2's...
This leads me to believe the issue is with the fic since it runs great with it dissconnected but not so good connected with the by pass harness.
Hmm I wish I knew more about the AEM stuff man. I just know everyone has tried running boost on the stock MAF and it always has issues at even low boost, this is the whole reason Ali invented the GTE ECU mod. It's by far THEE way to go for OEM reliability and up to 500HP. If you sold the FIC you could fund everything you needed for the GTE ECU MOD and would never look back, anyone would agree... Just sayin lol
That being said maybe you already have everything you need and a tuner could figure it out for you, I just don't know enough about tuning with the FIC.
Thanks , i originally was looking at doing that but long term goals are for it to be a track car. figured id grow out of it and the AC issue, new pins and stuff on the ecu kinda scare me.. electrical.. i have 0 experience and the car is kinda my daily. Still might have to just go with that. I was under the impression that for more than 400hp i would need more ems(like the fic) anyways even with the gte ecu.
I'm going to denver for the holidays and a shop there says they can get the fic working well for 450. I'm temped. i don't have a dyno and its very hard to tune the car while your driving it with your laptop. If i could see what the guy does to get it working i feel like it would make sense to me from there.
The next issue i run into is that the AEM EMS full standalones cannot control my auto transmission. I plan on swaping to a r154 just waiting for the right one on craigslist or clublexus. So im kinda stuck inbetween without wanting to get something i will grow out of in the build.
I saw his tune but its for the v1 1101 not the fic. I don't know if they are interchangeable and i couldn't get it to download when i tried
I'm just frustrated the car runs great with the aem not in. With the aem sometimes the MAF Frequency IN drops to 0 at idle causing the car to die. the Out also drops to 0 at this point even if i have it clamped.. But i'l say it again the car runs great without the harness or fic so i don't think its my MAF meter
Finally got my O2's in the mail and installed them with the stock ecu to see what would happen.... CAR RUNS GREAT!!! i had my wideband sending its narrow band to my o2's and it was not working correctly apparently
WOT is 12 afr. crusing is 14.2 - 15.3 idle is at 16.
11-23-15, 08:45 AM
