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Have you made any headway in diagnosing your issue?
No. I'm waiting to pull the trans until I hear back if I can get it warrantied. If not I'll just order a new unit from z1 then pull it.
From reading around it seems like these are very noisy, and considering I don't have interior it resonates badly. But throwing the knock sensor? That's bad. Lol
No. I'm waiting to pull the trans until I hear back if I can get it warrantied. If not I'll just order a new unit from z1 then pull it.
From reading around it seems like these are very noisy, and considering I don't have interior it resonates badly. But throwing the knock sensor? That's bad. Lol
OK gotcha. Yeah, that is pretty bad lol. I will be pissed if I have any of these issues
lovesc, scskidder and halon uses that huge spacer in between Auto TT flexplate and Nissan Flywheel with that of Collins Adapter . Maverick adapter do not need that adapater since their flywheels works directly with the JZ starter.
How come Nolagg and estomax who uses the Collins Adapter do not have that spacer in between the Auto TT flexplate and the Nissan flywheel ? Am I missing something ?
I am not using the huge adapter or the auto flexplate. I have the custom Collins flywheel as well, that uses a standard 350z clutch kit. Same Collins kit that NOLAGG is using.
SCSkidder has the multi plate option, which needs the flexplate and huge adapter.
Halon and estomax have one of the first types of Collins kits. At the time, Collins offered two options. One option was to use the flexplate and adapter which would allow you to run any off the shelf 350z(?) or 300ZX(?) clutch kit. That is the kit that Halon has (had). The other option was a sort of mix matched kit of different vehicles to get the stack height correct. So, you either had an option to use the flexplate and adapter at the convenience of having an off the shelf clutch kit, or you were able to get rid of flex plate and no adapter, but get stuck with a custom clutch setup that only Collins knew what it consisted of.
I believe that back then, Collins didn't have a custom flywheel developed
we use a custom collins flywheel that is fairly thick to not need a spacer. also my trans is shaved 5/8 inch so that much less spacing is required. different way to solve the problem i guess, but my flywheel is fully custom and i dont know what exact clutch/pressure plate i use either.
I got you guys ... thanks . I am just wrapping my head around and keeping an eye on all these options and all these build threads going on here and on SF for this CD009 conversion so I can make a good decision if I will try one once they have a triple disk option. Got to be a triple disk because of the power / torque I would want the setup to hold. At the end of the day , while I read all your threads , I should be able to see the cost and benefits of it compared to a V160 setup... which includes of course all the cost , work , risks , drivability and most important reliability. Right now with a good triple disk setup for a CD009 , I believe it is at least on the $6k already not considering there is no proven setup yet on that level on our JZ power plant. The triple disk is a very expensive disk ... I hate to go into one with this CD009 just to find out that such disk is a pain to drive or transmission is blowing up or having problems at a level I wanted it to hold. Not all triple disk clutches are good as had been proven with the V160 transmission. Some are like on / off switches , some you need the legs of a body builder to hold on to the clutch, some do not last long and some are dreadfully noisy ... and so on... that is why I am trying to remember and learn from all your experiences .
yeah there is a lot of learning yet.. but that's what we get for wanting to try new things pain is part of it. i hope the details and OEMness of the CD009 on JZ motors gets ironed out sooner than later! reliability wise i can vouch for over 10k miles on my car right now, and no problems.
yeah my only real complaint is the noise, the shifter solution is slowly becoming better, the other problem is no speed sensor, but that is also not a huge deal.. and i still dont have a reverse light either, need to find a pigtail off a 350z or g35 with manual trans.
power is relatively stock 1jz vvti, so 260ish whp? nothing close to what you push usually. it feels relatively quick but i havent dynoed it, there are some pull videos on youtube if that would give you a better idea
SO, Brett Fenning pulled his trans because of the same tractor noise were talking about (marbles in a can) and when he installed the trans the pilot bushing pushed through the adapter.. Ill be pulling my trans soon to inspect.
yeah my only real complaint is the noise, the shifter solution is slowly becoming better, the other problem is no speed sensor, but that is also not a huge deal.. and i still dont have a reverse light either, need to find a pigtail off a 350z or g35 with manual trans.
power is relatively stock 1jz vvti, so 260ish whp? nothing close to what you push usually. it feels relatively quick but i havent dynoed it, there are some pull videos on youtube if that would give you a better idea
Hey Marko, thanks for the reverse light reminder. I was originally going to try to use the connector that came on the trans, but when they clipped the wires, they only left about 1/4" of wire to solder on to. So, rather than play around with that, I found one from wiring specialties. Just search their site for "VQ35 reverse switch". I got the connector with 3" leads for $12 shipped
Got quite a bit done today. Trying to get all my ducks back in a row to drop the motor back in.
Finished up tucking the wires. I pulled the wire harness all the way from the passenger kick panel, around the front, and back to where the underhood fusebox is on driver side. Put all brand new high temp split loom on everything then ran the harness back through the driver headlight opening, along the back of the intercooler, under the passenger headlight, then around to under the passenger fender (Ziptied up to the top of the fender so tire doesn't rub through), and then back into the firewall:
Harness by fusebox: (I have a cover for the distribution blocks and relay wiring that you see there, so don't worry, it will not be seen)
Run through driver headlight opening. You can also see that other smaller harness and the ABS/TRAC relay box that I rerouted to on top of the PS cooler:
Along backside of intercooler:
Underneath passenger headlight:
Pic of the underneath passenger headlight/fender corner
Up along under fender:
Tied in at the top of the fender so that tire can't rub through:
Back into firewall. You can see the other 2 smaller harness for ABS heading out into the bay. These 2 smaller harnesses were the only ones that needed to be extended to tuck this whole passenger side harness:
I removed the AC compressor off the engine and installed the SSWORXS AC delete bracket. They sent me the wrong one. I wanted a blank plate, but they sent me one with 2JZ cutout. But oh well, I will eventually have a 2J bottom end
Also put split loom on the engine harness:
Put a nice tight wrap on the downpipe:
Disconnected and Pulled out my SupraStick auto trans ECU from where I had it in the glovebox:
And did some other things to get ready. Installed motor mounts back on, bent hard clutch line from MC, cleaned up garage space and re-organized tools, cleaned up the motor a little, and put new crush washers on the fuel line banjo bolt. I SHOULD have the motor in next weekend. Or maybe even sometime this week if I am feeling confident that I can get it in before dark after work.
Here's a question for you guys. I will be retaining my auto 1JZ ECU along with my MAP ECU.
I have read in some places that you have to trick the ECU into thinking that it's in drive. That the ECU controls ISCV and air/fuel ratio differently and needs to know when it is being driven. Is all of this true?
At the moment, all I have planned to do is to solder the neutral start switch wires together. Will this be all that I need to do for it to run properly, or will I need to fake it into thinking its in Drive?
04-29-16, 09:10 AM
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pain is part of it. i hope the details and OEMness of the CD009 on JZ motors gets ironed out sooner than later! reliability wise i can vouch for over 10k miles on my car right now, and no problems.
