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oh man so good to hear that your's isn't making the dreaded noise! it sounds nice and OEM which is what i wish mine was like..
now i wonder if i need the whole flywheel or if i can get away with a different clutch disk/pp like what you have.
sounds like maybe you had air bubble keeping your thermostat closed? these motors are pretty tough with heat though, my elec fan has died before on a hot day and the engine temp climbed to 230F on the highway in traffic for a bit.
So that brass piece you all modified to use this shifter with, anybody know where I could just buy one of those? I'll mod mine, but I really would like to have an untouched one in case I had to go back.
**Edit nevermind, I saw someone posted the part number previously. I'm going to keep seeing if I can find a local person to just machine me one**
Thanks man. I really hope not too. I went out this morning and started it from cold. Immediately after starting it, this is what the temp gauge read:
So, I am guessing that there is just something wrong with the gauge, and it didn't really get as hot as I thought it did
I will have to check when I go home and see if the gauge is all the way down when the car is off. If it is, then I know that the gauge is OK and was not "pegged" or broken by really overheating. This would tell me that there is definitely something wrong with my temp sending, and I'm not really that hot.
Thanks Marko, yeah it sounds like stock. It's hard to say what is actually deadening the noise, rather it be the flywheel or the silent disc kit that I have. To hear that yours was at 230 for a bit and is still OK is encouraging. It just sucks that I went through all of this and now have to deal with this issue. Which hopefully turns out to be a non issue
Without going back and trying to find it, what is your flywheel / clutch setup?
Hopefully my stuff is here soon, but I'm actually getting his new Flywheel design that lets you run any off the shelf 350z clutch, which is nice because there's quite a few single disc setups out there that can hold power.
I have Collins custom flywheel and I have a South Bend clutch kit NSK1000-SS-TZ with silent disc.
Its a stage 3 endurance kit good for 575 flywheel torque. These kits are known for being conservatively rated, so I'm thinking it could be good for 575 wheel torque. I cant comment on pedal feel yet because I haven't bled the clutch properly yet to try and move it. But everyone on supraforums raves about this stage 3 endurance kit. I know its a supra kit that they are using, but assume the quality is across the board.
Got it from Z-speed performance. Don't just order it online though. Get a quote from Joe, I will post his email address when I get home and can check my gmail from my home computer because I can't go that far back on my phone and work blocks it..
The price paid when getting a price from Joe was a bit cheaper
hope the overheat didn't do anything bad, if it was just idling you should be ok since you caught it pretty fast.
On your adapter, it almost looks like the piece was misaligned during the making of it. That is really unfortunate it would drive me nuts. you can probably use it like that but man is that crappy to have to live with that, its almost something I would consider going through the pain to change again.
I would throw a level on the top of the shifter base and you can see how off it is.
And yeah, the off center shifter will drive me nuts. I am in talks with Brett about it. Let's see what he can do. Ideally, he sends me a new plate that I hold onto until I have the need or want to pull the trans again. Then I can send him back my current plate. I don't see why he wouldn't do that. If he is true to quality, then the plate that I have now is scrap anyway. It is literally off by about 5 degrees. If you look at the pic comparison between plates, you will see how the JZ and cd009 mounting hole centerlines are just about lined up on the right side. But on my plate, the cd009 mounting hole is rotated up a little bit on that ear and almost breaking through the material. So, all holes have been rotated that amount
So is your clutch just an off the shelf 350z clutch then? Or some sort of custom frankenstein setup with a Pressure Plate for car "x" and a disc for car "y"?
It is an off the shelf kit for 350z. The kits that Collins makes now can be used with off the shelf kits. Even though he doesn't advertise it that way. He must be getting discounted rates from ACT or something. I originally ordered the kit with ACT clutch. The part numbers on the packing slip were for standard off the shelf 350z part numbers. So, that's how I know you can use standard kits. Plus, NOLAGG is using a standard off the shelf JWT kit.
I will have direct experience with it once I actually drive it, but until then, I can only say that I am 99% sure.
I was also using an off the shelf JWT, but I had the whole flywheel adapter kit.
COllins does advertise his flywheel now, I think he just added it to the site. So maybe it's been that way for awhile but he just now decided to advertise. Anyway that is what I ordered and am waiting on. I just haven't decided on a clutch yet. My previous JWT setup is toast, so I need something new. Been looking at the ACT offerings, but I'll have to look into the South Bend one you mentioned.
I think I must have something wrong with my temperature sender and my coolant temperature sensor, and I don't think the motor got as hot as I originally thought it did.
For some reason, after a minute or two of running from a cold start, the temp needle starts to rise and I notice the engine bog down a bit and my AFR shows it richening up. Almost as if the gauge and the ECU both think that the motor is running hot. Even though after shutting it down, I went out and put my hand on the water neck and it was luke warm.
I measured the resistance from the coolant temp sensor signal wire up at the connector all the way to the ECU connector and it was 1 ohm, so I know I have a good connection. I rang out the other pin in the connector to ground, and it had a good connection. So I'm pretty sure I have good wiring for the coolant temp sensor. For the temp sender, I unplugged it and started the car and the needle stayed all the way down, then plugged it back in and it moved. I rang out the water neck to ground and it had a good connection. I filled the water neck with coolant, thinking that maybe it would behave better if immersed in coolant, still the same thing. I measured the resistance of the coolant temp sensor at room temp and got about 1600 ohms. TSRM says that as long as there is continuity at that temp, that it's OK.
The coolant temp sensor is about 1 year old with maybe 2000 miles on it. I have a new one that I will replace it with to rule it out, and I have a new temp sender on order as well.
LoveSCs, so the collins flywheel. I have the same one on order. Is it like an all aluminum flywheel with a replaceable friction surtface? Or is it all steel and is a machinable friction surface?
I'm talking with ZSpeed Performance about potential South Bend clutch options, and I'd like to give them a little info on the flywheel.
It is an all aluminum one with replaceable friction surface.
Here is pic:
Collins flywheel came in. UPS package says weight is 21 lbs. Looks like a good piece. UPS tracking says it came from Clutchmasters. So, good to know that it came from a good company
Hey thanks for the pictures man. I've been talking with ZSpeed a lot. I'm starting to lean towards getting a SB clutch from them. Looking at either the Stage 3 sprung 6-puck (2700lb pressure plate rated to 700tq) or the same setup but with their extreme pressure plate (3000-3200ish pound pressure plate).
My one concern with SB is I have a lot of DSM buddies that used to run SB clutches, and they used feramic material in their discs, and they were known to sometimes weld to the flywheel. So they said all they ever ended up running was organic discs. Which is not for me, I won't run organic.
Side note, I FINALLY got someone to come help me in the garage!
"CD009 on a 2JZ, gimme that hammer, I got this"
05-17-16, 06:57 AM
