CD009 350Z 6spd On 1JZ SC400
05-24-16, 10:38 AM
#406
Halon and for others, If you are designing that piece I would say its important to make the bottom piece where the cup sits in at least as deep as the cup itself. reason is when you move shifter left to right, the metal ball at the end of the shifter that sits in the cup and /or the cup will want to raise on the side gears and sit lower on the middle gears... so there is a hair of up and down movement but the cup shouldn't be able to come out of the fitting... cause if its too shallow the cup might pop out and then you cannot shift anymore and you don't want that to happen while driving.
LoveSC's pic above you can see how the cup is alot taller than the opening in the metal piece. He centered it well and JB welded it so I dont think he has a problem, but since you are designing one take another look at it cause its not that obvious till you go and try and shift gears what I mean about it moving up and down a hair. instead of JB welding I was going to stack and weld some washers to it, or make a new piece but thankfully you guys beat me to finishing it =)
LoveSC's pic above you can see how the cup is alot taller than the opening in the metal piece. He centered it well and JB welded it so I dont think he has a problem, but since you are designing one take another look at it cause its not that obvious till you go and try and shift gears what I mean about it moving up and down a hair. instead of JB welding I was going to stack and weld some washers to it, or make a new piece but thankfully you guys beat me to finishing it =)
05-24-16, 02:25 PM
#407
Nice Keith ... looks like things are working out good for you on that swap 
.
I might have missed it .. as of today , without counting or putting a dollar figure on all the time , work done and aggravation
, how much did it cost you for the whole swap ? That will help people have a ball park figure if they want to do the swap with the same goals torque wise.
.I might have missed it .. as of today , without counting or putting a dollar figure on all the time , work done and aggravation
, how much did it cost you for the whole swap ? That will help people have a ball park figure if they want to do the swap with the same goals torque wise.Hey thanks Gerry! I am very pleased so far. Although I only have about 1 mile and 5 minutes of drive time on it until I get the car inspected, so don't want to count my chickens just yet lol. I have so far about $4100 into the swap, and maybe another $50 or so to spend. There is an excel spread sheet attached to post 1 with parts and related costs. I will attach here as well for simplicity.
Keith
Nice man! Sucks that your tranny's are noisy. I've had mine at idle in neutral and in gear, and up to 2500 RPM's so far, and haven't heard anything out of the ordinary. Just like stock. Must be the twin disc setup that you are using. I wonder how much of an impact my silent disc kit from Southbend is attributing..
Halon and for others, If you are designing that piece I would say its important to make the bottom piece where the cup sits in at least as deep as the cup itself. reason is when you move shifter left to right, the metal ball at the end of the shifter that sits in the cup and /or the cup will want to raise on the side gears and sit lower on the middle gears... so there is a hair of up and down movement but the cup shouldn't be able to come out of the fitting... cause if its too shallow the cup might pop out and then you cannot shift anymore and you don't want that to happen while driving.
LoveSC's pic above you can see how the cup is alot taller than the opening in the metal piece. He centered it well and JB welded it so I dont think he has a problem, but since you are designing one take another look at it cause its not that obvious till you go and try and shift gears what I mean about it moving up and down a hair. instead of JB welding I was going to stack and weld some washers to it, or make a new piece but thankfully you guys beat me to finishing it =)
LoveSC's pic above you can see how the cup is alot taller than the opening in the metal piece. He centered it well and JB welded it so I dont think he has a problem, but since you are designing one take another look at it cause its not that obvious till you go and try and shift gears what I mean about it moving up and down a hair. instead of JB welding I was going to stack and weld some washers to it, or make a new piece but thankfully you guys beat me to finishing it =)
05-25-16, 05:39 PM
#409
Driver School Candidate
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Hey no problem man, and thanks for tuning in! We are aware of SerialNine, and if they had a released product, I may have went that route. But $350 is hard to cough up for a shifter. In case you aren't aware, CBF Performance does almost the same exact thing as SerialNine (and comparatively priced), and then there is also Brett Fenning who does a modified 240sx shifter version for about $200.
Think there would be any major differences between doing the swap on an SC vs a Soarer? I was thinking obviously the clutch master to slave line will be different, probably some other small stuff. The Collins website seems to suggest pretty much all parts would be the same. I'm looking to get into the Soarer chassis whenever my Silvia sells.
05-26-16, 04:25 AM
#410
Yeah, it is a decent chunk of money for a shifter. Didn't mean to sound like a sales rep lol, just seemed like the best option I'd seen thus far. I will look into those other two. For me, the cd009 swap will be a slow, thought out process and I'd like the end result to be close to OEM in terms of feel and fitment. Besides the aftermarket clutch, etc.
Think there would be any major differences between doing the swap on an SC vs a Soarer? I was thinking obviously the clutch master to slave line will be different, probably some other small stuff. The Collins website seems to suggest pretty much all parts would be the same. I'm looking to get into the Soarer chassis whenever my Silvia sells.
Think there would be any major differences between doing the swap on an SC vs a Soarer? I was thinking obviously the clutch master to slave line will be different, probably some other small stuff. The Collins website seems to suggest pretty much all parts would be the same. I'm looking to get into the Soarer chassis whenever my Silvia sells.
And, no, I don't see much difference between the SC and Soarer chassis. Shouldn't be a problem at all
05-27-16, 06:30 PM
#411
3D Printed prototype linkage bracket done and test fitted. Very happy with it. I'll be changing it a MM here and a MM there, then having 4 ran from billet aluminum. If anyone has any feedback let me know in the next couple days. Things I'll be changing are:
1) I'll be shorting up the length by a couple MM since ever little bit helps for our shifter placement.
2) I'll also be shortening up the height by probably 1mm since right now I think it's sitting about 1mm lower than the stock piece.
3) I may add some rounds to the corners, but I have to talk to the machinest. He is making these for me for a good price, so the less time on the machine the better. If he comes back and says adding all the rounding I'd like will add a lot of time (and essentially cost), then I'll skip it to keep costs to a minnimum.
Ali I listened to your input and made that bottom part thicker on this prototype. Almost the entire plastic end piece fits in there. In these pics, that plastic piece is flush with the bottom of the linkage bracket. It's also an extremely snug fit, you have to use a bit of force to even get it in that hole, so it should hold tightly in there I think. Look good?
1) I'll be shorting up the length by a couple MM since ever little bit helps for our shifter placement.
2) I'll also be shortening up the height by probably 1mm since right now I think it's sitting about 1mm lower than the stock piece.
3) I may add some rounds to the corners, but I have to talk to the machinest. He is making these for me for a good price, so the less time on the machine the better. If he comes back and says adding all the rounding I'd like will add a lot of time (and essentially cost), then I'll skip it to keep costs to a minnimum.
Ali I listened to your input and made that bottom part thicker on this prototype. Almost the entire plastic end piece fits in there. In these pics, that plastic piece is flush with the bottom of the linkage bracket. It's also an extremely snug fit, you have to use a bit of force to even get it in that hole, so it should hold tightly in there I think. Look good?
05-31-16, 06:27 AM
#414
Had some nice weather this weekend and was able to put about 350 city break-in miles. The trans is still shifting great, the clutch is still biting hard, and is still very enjoyable. But the more I drive it, and as I progressively drive it harder, I am realizing that it seemed to have rev'd better with the auto and suprastick controller. I did a few pulls and it just seems like there is more drivetrain drag now. I understand that now with the manual, there is engine braking between shifts, whereas with the auto and suprastick, there was no engine braking and if you let off the gas at high RPM's, the engine speed would drop to idle and the car would just coast (except in 3rd gear when the torque converter was locked up). There also seems to be a slight vibration in 4th gear around 2200RPMs. I kind of think there was a slight vibration at high RPM's while boosting as well, but I was so focused on checking everything else at the same time (boost gauge, wideband, etc.) that I couldn't really pay much attention to it. I seem to have a sticking caliper that I have to look at so it could be that too. I guess I will just have to get used to all of this and see how things progress over time and as everything gets truly broken in.
Also with the auto, the turbo hit hard. It doesn't seem to hit as hard now. I don't know if its the gearing difference or what. But, the car does pull strong and doesn't let up. The 240sx shifter is very tight between shifts and you have to be very conscious while shifting. I have definitely missed a couple shifts so far. I really need to think of a way to keep the shifter down in position so that I can remove those springs inside of the shifter housing. Right now, those springs are what is holding the shifter down, but they are adding more tension to shifts. Especially since there are already springs inside the transmission.
The car is definitely driving better than ever now. When the motor was out, I looked over the harness really good and fixed a few splices and some other things. Also soldered that jumper wire in behind that connector in the passenger foot area. It used to run weird like almost kind of limp mode where it would get really rich after about 1/2 hour of driving. It doesn't do that anymore. I drove the car for probably 20 hours over the last 3 days and no issues.
All in all, I am happy with the swap so far. I think I would've been equally happy with the built auto and my suprastick setup. But, I do really enjoy banging gears
Stay tuned for some more reviews soon. Going to look at the brakes issue that I'm having and then will be able to put some more miles down
Also with the auto, the turbo hit hard. It doesn't seem to hit as hard now. I don't know if its the gearing difference or what. But, the car does pull strong and doesn't let up. The 240sx shifter is very tight between shifts and you have to be very conscious while shifting. I have definitely missed a couple shifts so far. I really need to think of a way to keep the shifter down in position so that I can remove those springs inside of the shifter housing. Right now, those springs are what is holding the shifter down, but they are adding more tension to shifts. Especially since there are already springs inside the transmission.
The car is definitely driving better than ever now. When the motor was out, I looked over the harness really good and fixed a few splices and some other things. Also soldered that jumper wire in behind that connector in the passenger foot area. It used to run weird like almost kind of limp mode where it would get really rich after about 1/2 hour of driving. It doesn't do that anymore. I drove the car for probably 20 hours over the last 3 days and no issues.
All in all, I am happy with the swap so far. I think I would've been equally happy with the built auto and my suprastick setup. But, I do really enjoy banging gears
Stay tuned for some more reviews soon. Going to look at the brakes issue that I'm having and then will be able to put some more miles down
05-31-16, 06:57 AM
#416
OK thanks for that input. I guess I don't have anything to compare it to because I never drove a stock manual SC before. I am running the stock 95 sc400 rear end, 3.92. I have a LS400 3.26 that might end up going in sooner or later.
And yes, I did cut the springs down slightly. I think about 1.5 coils have been cut off. Basically so that the springs sit flush with the housing and don't need to be compressed to fasten down those 4 bolts in the housing. If there is any slack in the springs, then the shifter will want to lift out of the cup/bushing.
And yes, I did cut the springs down slightly. I think about 1.5 coils have been cut off. Basically so that the springs sit flush with the housing and don't need to be compressed to fasten down those 4 bolts in the housing. If there is any slack in the springs, then the shifter will want to lift out of the cup/bushing.
05-31-16, 07:01 AM
#417
hmm, wonder if the hardware store or something might have some different spring that have softer springs. Enough that the shifter stays in place, but softer than what you have.
The more I keep going with this, the more I think the Fenning $200 shifter might not be all that bad of an idea.
The more I keep going with this, the more I think the Fenning $200 shifter might not be all that bad of an idea.
05-31-16, 07:32 AM
#418
yeah, I was thinking of trying a different spring as well. But if it's too soft, the shifter will still want to come up. I'm thinking of removing the springs and tapping holes on the cover so that I can thread a bolt down into the cavity that the springs currently reside. I will use a nut to lock it down against the cover. That way it will give me a hard stop to shift against, while also removing the spring tension, and also hopefully will be low enough to retain the shifter down. I just have to investigate the radial movement of that shifter to see how much gap I need to allow full left/right movement. And hopefully the gap needed is not enough to allow the shifter to come out of the cup/bushing.
And you will have the same issues with the fenning shifter. His is basically the 240sx shifter housing with a swan neck
And you will have the same issues with the fenning shifter. His is basically the 240sx shifter housing with a swan neck
05-31-16, 10:33 AM
#420
No problem. He actually suggests to remove/modify the springs from inside the transmission so that the springs in the shifter provide the neutral return. He says to cut down the one spring on the passenger side and install it on the driver side so that there is spring tension when trying to go into reverse, and only the spring tension in the shifter for going into 1&2. I've thought about doing that, but I don't want to touch anything on the trans, even though it looks fairly straight forward