CD009 350Z 6spd On 1JZ SC400
#601
Your adapter housing is really interesting. I like that it uses the tilton slave and the bulkhead line connectors. I like how the shape of the bellhousing matches the shape of the transmission better than the other current options. Overall seems much more refined. I have to give credit to the folks who pioneered this whole swap in the beginning, and have to give credit to the folks who have come in and really started to refine this swap. I said it before that the CD009 swap is a viable option, but it still needed maturing. This is one heck of an example of that refinement/maturing I feel.
Couple comments / questions. Are there plans to have it SFI certified? Also the clutch, do you have any plans to go to a little bit larger clutch option (i.e. 8.5" vs. 7.25")?
Couple comments / questions. Are there plans to have it SFI certified? Also the clutch, do you have any plans to go to a little bit larger clutch option (i.e. 8.5" vs. 7.25")?
Currently no plans for a different clutch setup, we wanted to provide simplicity and transparency to our customers. YOU can choose which clutch to run based on YOUR needs, we're not limiting you to OUR clutch whether re-branded or not. The single is a great option for MOST street users with capacities up to 580tq. sprung for great drivability. For high powered cars we wanted the most available choices for the end user and the 7.25" provided that. I DO however agree that a larger clutch would provide a longer street life and perhaps better characteristics. with that said, I daily drive the triple (720lb/ft capacity) over 400km a week since April. We feel that once you're over 550wtq you should be prepared to have some sacrifices regarding components related to handling that amount of torque just like the rest of your car. Being realistic is a big part of building a car, EVERYONE wants 800 hp but with 800 hp comes a bunch of things that perhaps aren't quite worth the sacrifices you've gained bumping up from 600hp. I think some of these dudes should just be using W58's!! theyre great transmissions and DEAD easy to install lol.
Anyways, I'm sure all of this is not allowed so, yeah. A photo of our SEMA display?
G.
#602
Hows that bellhousing size? I was one of the original ones who did the swap with the standard CD009 bellhousing, and it was just a terrible fit into our tunnels. This bellhousing looks large still. My biggest issue has always been transmission removal/insall with the motor still in the car. Even on the current A340 bellhousing kits, I still need to tilt the engine a bit to get it in/out. I wonder how this would install/remove, any information on that?
#603
That is a cool adapter, i hadn't seen it either. At the end of the day though the only thing that bothers me about the swap (and i admit i was one of the early adapters so i shaved my bellhousing and have an adapter plate and all that jazz) is the rattle noise. if you can solve that with 1jz/2jz engines and this transmission then i would find it a lot more agreeable. i am sure people with w58's and v160's dont have to listen to a broken diesel clatter when the window is down at a drive through. Just adding a goal to your to do list with taking this further.
cheers
Marko
PS, i refuse to subscribe to the apple ecosystem though.
cheers
Marko
PS, i refuse to subscribe to the apple ecosystem though.
#604
That is a cool adapter, i hadn't seen it either. At the end of the day though the only thing that bothers me about the swap (and i admit i was one of the early adapters so i shaved my bellhousing and have an adapter plate and all that jazz) is the rattle noise. if you can solve that with 1jz/2jz engines and this transmission then i would find it a lot more agreeable. i am sure people with w58's and v160's dont have to listen to a broken diesel clatter when the window is down at a drive through. Just adding a goal to your to do list with taking this further.
cheers
Marko
PS, i refuse to subscribe to the apple ecosystem though.
cheers
Marko
PS, i refuse to subscribe to the apple ecosystem though.
https://www.exedyusa.com/wp-content/...-Guide-web.pdf EXEDY themsleves TELL you to expect this when running ANY of their light weight systems. (scroll down to page 37)
This is also the reason for our Single plate version. the total clutch/flywheel assembly weighs around 30-33lbs (depending on clutch chosen) to HELP with this annoying rattle yet still provide sportiness through decreased inertia. The Multi system weighs 20-21lbs (depending on clutch) There is a discernable difference between a 30lb assembly and a 20lb assembly. But a race car is a race car and a street car is a street car. .
G.
Last edited by SERIALN9NE; 12-05-17 at 05:38 PM.
#605
Hows that bellhousing size? I was one of the original ones who did the swap with the standard CD009 bellhousing, and it was just a terrible fit into our tunnels. This bellhousing looks large still. My biggest issue has always been transmission removal/insall with the motor still in the car. Even on the current A340 bellhousing kits, I still need to tilt the engine a bit to get it in/out. I wonder how this would install/remove, any information on that?
This is in my Aristo, completely flush with the floor and only reshaped not cut.
G.
#606
i guess what i challenge you to (since you seem to be able to come up with some nifty solutions) is to get a dual mass flywheel made to cure the rattle or adapt the 2jz dual mass flywheel somehow The stock 350z dual mass is 31 lbs from a quick google and not all of us want a race car. i still rock the stock sc400 exhaust with my 1jz.. i guess i'm getting old lol.
Marko
Marko
#607
Thanks for the info. I think your kit is very cool, I like what you've had to say about it. Personally the one remaining drawback for me is still the 7.25" multidisc offerings (did you say your triple is only rated at 720lbf? ). Otherwise the rest of it sounds very promising. Very interested to start hearing and seeing some real world feedback.
#608
i guess what i challenge you to (since you seem to be able to come up with some nifty solutions) is to get a dual mass flywheel made to cure the rattle or adapt the 2jz dual mass flywheel somehow The stock 350z dual mass is 31 lbs from a quick google and not all of us want a race car. i still rock the stock sc400 exhaust with my 1jz.. i guess i'm getting old lol.
Marko
Marko
Thanks for the info. I think your kit is very cool, I like what you've had to say about it. Personally the one remaining drawback for me is still the 7.25" multidisc offerings (did you say your triple is only rated at 720lbf? ). Otherwise the rest of it sounds very promising. Very interested to start hearing and seeing some real world feedback.
The 7.25" configuration is used to allow the use of the carbon clutch as well. This would be the solution for anyone serious about driveability, reliability, and holding power. The SAME quad carbon that most high powered Supra guys run is a complete bolt onto the CD-PRO with simply a release bearing sleeve change. This clutch STARTS at 1640lb/ft but comes in at a lofty $6250 haha.
G.
#609
For comparison I currently run a single disc from SB rated at 715tq. After the break in period it is very drivable and slippable. I am pushing the limit tho so I recently purchased an 8.5" twin disc setup rated at over 1000tq. My perception (which i admit could be wrong) is generally the smaller multidisc clutches are less street friendly. But perhaps I'm wrong in your case, but it's still my initial reaction none the less. So I look forward to hearing some real world feedback, hopefully proving my impression wrong.
#610
Hope I'm not thread jacking but just a question for Mr. SerialN9ne,
-So every manual transmission running a lighter fly wheel from factory will experience the rattle? Despite the use the correct transmission fluid?
-So every manual transmission running a lighter fly wheel from factory will experience the rattle? Despite the use the correct transmission fluid?
#611
When you install a lighter then stock flywheel you throw all of this criteria out the window in favor of quicker revs and acceleration. The severity of the difference from stock will depend on the original transmission and how much lighter your new assembly is.
The rattle or noise you hear is simply backlash between the gears and thrust surfaces in the transmission no longer being cancelled out by a heavy (enough) flywheel/clutch assembly. The fluid has very little impact on this phenomenon. Adding thicker fluid may help this particular “problem” but cause a new problem by way of poor shifting performance or less protection than stock (all dependent upon application)
I’ll tell you what, under certain circumstances my transmission is completely silent. Usually stopped on a slight upward incline and just getting warm. It is the SAME intersection every single day I get to sit st the light in peace. 😊
G.
#612
The purpose of the OEM heavy or dual mass flywheel is to help provide a smooth easy to driving experience for the largest possible audience. Vibration and NVH is unwanted so they design accordingly.
When you install a lighter then stock flywheel you throw all of this criteria out the window in favor of quicker revs and acceleration. The severity of the difference from stock will depend on the original transmission and how much lighter your new assembly is.
The rattle or noise you hear is simply backlash between the gears and thrust surfaces in the transmission no longer being cancelled out by a heavy (enough) flywheel/clutch assembly. The fluid has very little impact on this phenomenon. Adding thicker fluid may help this particular “problem” but cause a new problem by way of poor shifting performance or less protection than stock (all dependent upon application)
I’ll tell you what, under certain circumstances my transmission is completely silent. Usually stopped on a slight upward incline and just getting warm. It is the SAME intersection every single day I get to sit st the light in peace. 😊
G.
When you install a lighter then stock flywheel you throw all of this criteria out the window in favor of quicker revs and acceleration. The severity of the difference from stock will depend on the original transmission and how much lighter your new assembly is.
The rattle or noise you hear is simply backlash between the gears and thrust surfaces in the transmission no longer being cancelled out by a heavy (enough) flywheel/clutch assembly. The fluid has very little impact on this phenomenon. Adding thicker fluid may help this particular “problem” but cause a new problem by way of poor shifting performance or less protection than stock (all dependent upon application)
I’ll tell you what, under certain circumstances my transmission is completely silent. Usually stopped on a slight upward incline and just getting warm. It is the SAME intersection every single day I get to sit st the light in peace. 😊
G.
#614
serial9, i noticed the same thing when sitting at uphill intersections, the rattle noise is much lower (or not at all) in those cases.
bluej, i suspect a different clutch disc could also affect the rattle noise. i have about 20-25k miles on my setup so far over the last 3 years, if i ever feel like taking the trans out again i will definately try a different clutch.
lex, the speedo signal would come from a GPS adapter or a signal adapter hacked into an ABS wheel sensor. i have the GPS adapter on my car, works well, takes a minute to find the satellites and drops to 0 speed in tunnels though
Marko
bluej, i suspect a different clutch disc could also affect the rattle noise. i have about 20-25k miles on my setup so far over the last 3 years, if i ever feel like taking the trans out again i will definately try a different clutch.
lex, the speedo signal would come from a GPS adapter or a signal adapter hacked into an ABS wheel sensor. i have the GPS adapter on my car, works well, takes a minute to find the satellites and drops to 0 speed in tunnels though
Marko