I don't know why anyone else thought of this before. That seems to make life a WHOLE LOT easier. Along with cutting into stress and down time.

 

yeah, it definitely made it a ton easier. I was to the point of almost saying forget it, I will just let the trans pull the tunnel in when I tighten down the crossmember bolts. But I didn't like that because I didn't want any undo stress on the bellhousing bolts, and I want to make sure everything is centered and that the driveshaft is straight without undo stress. I am doing all of this on jackstands, and was getting uncomfortable with how hard I was having to pound under there. My whole underbody is rubberized under coated so my hammer was just bouncing off the tunnel.

This is BY FAR the way to go. You just have to make a platform of bricks to stand the jack on, otherwise as you pump the jack, the wheels on the jack will just make it want to roll down.

 

Did a few things over the weekend. Nothing major. More thinking than anything else. I did decide to just make my shifter similar to what Ali_SC3 has done. My original intention was to use the first roll pinned linkage part on the shift rod, cut the top part off as Ali's was (see post #53), except bend the bottom one down 90 degrees, and then use the hole to mount a rod end pivot joint as shown in post #59. But, after removing the linkage part and cutting off the top one, the bottom would not bend down cleanly.

So, this is the direction I am taking:

240sx short shifter with housing, and a dual bend Integra shifter:








I wanted to remount the linkage as far up the rod as possible, so using a dremel, shaved back the welds on the linkage part and drill holes in the same exact location, except as close as possible to the linkage so that the linkage can be placed furthest up the shift rod as possible









Rod trimmed back (used angle grinder), and linkage reinstalled with roll pin. I cut the rod back a little too much, but still plenty of meat on it. I will have to open up the bottom hole on the linkage a tad bit more to be able push the roll pin all the way through






I will have to cut the black plate back so that it is not hanging over the inspection plate. Then, I will have to center and drill mounting holes so that it can mount to the existing holes on the tail of the trans. I will also shave back as much of that top radius above the brass piece that I can. That will get me a flatter, lower mount, and will also give me some more surface area for the plate to rest on and be supported. I will then have to open up the hole on the linkage a little more so that the plastic piece on the shifter can fit snug, then will JB weld it in place so that it can't come out. For the shifter itself, I will cut the the stock 240shifer back inside the housing, and also cut the integra shifter and drill and tap both for a hefty stud so that they can be connected together. That ought to get me right to stock SC location






Also, I think I am going to go a different route for clutch master cylinder. SupraStore has a Tilton clutch master cylinder upgrade kit for $360. It includes a 3/4" bore master (stock is 5/8"), and an adapter to adapt it to the clutch pedal and firewall mounting points. BUT, I'm not paying $360...

I will be going with one of these. Its a 3/4" bore Wilwood (part number 260-1304). It's like $50. Then, can just buy a piece round aluminum stock and drill a couple holes and tap a couple, and trim it to fit on firewall next to brake booster

 

very nice, I forgot to mention that I drilled a hole forward of the original also on that brass piece, pretty much exactly what you did there, totally forgot I did that for an extra .5".

I remember I tried to drill the shift rod itself, and I couldn't even scratch it with the drill bits I had, its made of tough stuff. the brass piece is like butter to drill through though, and I wouldn't bend it much it will weaken and snap after a few bends.
Interesting with the integra shifter, I would still consider doing the v160 shifter for reverse lockout, and for the extra 2" just use a shifter plate of a gated auto shifter, it sits 2" further back than the stock manual shifter plate so you can use a straight shifter.
that is what I was going to do anyways. good luck and keep up the good work.

 

Thanks! Yeah, I also attempted to drill through the rod, but it broke the tip on my spring loaded center punch lol. Drilling the linkage part is the best way to go anyway because drilling it at that spot is as far forward as you can comfortably go anyway before the end of the linkage runs into the shift rod bearing there. Unless you were to cut off some of the linkage, like before the original hole, in order to buy some more throw. And yeah thanks, you are right with the V160 shifter for reverse lockout. I might eventually do that, but just waiting on a good deal for a gated shifter bezel. Until then, I will rock this and will thread a spring plunger detent pin into the 240sx shifter housing and press a pin pin into the shifter to "resist" finding reverse

 

And thanks again for all of the leg work that you put in figuring out using the 240 shifter

 

no problem, glad you documented it other people were asking me about it and I was so busy trying to get something that worked well I forgot to take more pics.

 

yeah, once I get it working, I'm going to add what was done to the first page so that everything is all in one spot

 

I talked to collins about upgrading hydraulics.. They said the SC has plenty of force, even for the twin disc.

 

There are a few people that are having issues with the clutch which was resolved with upgrading the master cylinder. The cost of that upgraded Wilwood setup is less than an OEM SC master cylinder. So I might as well just do that, even though I already have a brand new in box Aisin... Guess will just sell that

 

I just picked up a gated shifter on ebay for $70. I have been watching for them for the last few days, and just seen one today at a decent price. Funny because we were just talking about it. So, I guess I am going that route

 

Post a link....

I still haven't got a shipment confirmation from collins... how long did it take to get your kit?

 

We're not allowed to post links, but here is a pic of the gated shifter. They are on 98-00 auto SC300 and 400's. I really like that this one has the heated seats and ECT buttons on it that I can use for other things. I was going to need a new 5 spd bezel anyway because I drilled a hole through mine to mount my gear changing switch for my suprastick ecu that I was running. Here is gated shifter (credit goes to Ali_SC3 for thinking of using this):





I am a little bit concerned here of how thick the V160 shifter is. Wondering if it will have enough room inside the 240 housing to hit all the gears?:








As far as the kit goes, it will come in 4 shipments. 1 from Collins which will include the bellhousing adapter, differential adapter, trans crossmember and hardware. Driveshaft will come from Shaftmasters, Flywheel will come Clutchmasters, and clutch kit will come from ACT.

I placed my order with Collins on 2/8. I received driveshaft on 2/16, Clutch and Collins stuff on 2/17, and flywheel on 2/18

 

the fat part on the v160 shifter slides up and down, so just cut at the thin part of the rod and weld onto the 240sx shifter rod. unfortunately it has to be a cut and weld thing. good find on the gated shifter with the heated seat buttons, I have one stashed away in case I do this mod as well.

 

I want to see this work! I dont want to spend money on a shifter which costs more than the damn transmission itself.