Lettut

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Thanks Ali! Very kind of you to help. I havenīt had time to do the modification yet, but I will


Thank you sir!




So Iīve been struggling with two things since the last update. Clutch and Gauge cluster light.


Clutch
Clutches and me donīt go together well. I bled everything before the first start up and everything felt ok. With the engine up and running . the clutch didnīt disengage. I bled the system a couple of times, but nothing improved. The slave cylinder is new, but the master was used, so I suspected that the master cylinder was defect. Ordered a new Aisin master cylinder, waited 10 days for delivery, changed the master cylinder, bled the system, and still the same problem.
As I mentioned earlier I changed the spring in the slave cylinder to a weaker one, that was sent from os giken, together with the custom slave cylinder rod.
So I changed back to the firmer oem spring, bled the system (again), and ta da, it worked ! It alters the starting point for the slave cylinder enough to be able to compress the clutch a bit more.
So Iīve wasted money on a new master cylinder and brake fluid, and Iīve spent hours and hours with bleedning the system and pumping that darn pedal. Next car project will be an auto for sure.




New clutch master cylinder






Changing back to the stock slave cylinder spring



While I was at it , I removed the big auto foot rest in the carpet. It was too close to the pedal.







Gauge cluster light
My other remaining problem was the Gauge cluster light. The warning lights was working when I did the first start ups, but no light behind the speedometer and tach.
At first I thought it was broken bulbs/diodes, I bought a bag of new diodes and thought that it was going to be a quick fix. When I had opened up the cluster I realised that all diods was working fine. Ok, then maybe it was the rheostat , since it was all the lights that it can alter? I followed the work shop manuals instruction on how to check the function of it and came to the (wrong) conclusion that is was defect. Ordered a used one from the states, waited for delivery, installed the new one , but still no cluster light.
I really tried to read all the electrical charts but couldnīt figure out what was wrong. I borrowed the cluster from my sc300, and still the same problem. So I had ruled out the rheostat, the cluster and fuses.
Then clublexus helped me again. I found an old thread with a guy that described the same problem.It was a ground problem. I had missed that there was ground connection to the transmission tunnel, under the ashtray.




The forgotten ground connection. The orange wire is a temporary ground just to check.




Finally


Changing to a new TRD shift stick **** was a bit easier.

Lettut

Just some random pics.

Lettut

Today she passed the yearly MOT/smog test .

Sweden has rules similar to California, so I was a bit nervous. As I had hoped, they couldnīt tell the difference between a 1jzgte and a 2jzgte , or a supra and a sc300 interior.
Thereīs no documentation if a vehicle is RHD or LHD, so that wasnīt a problem.

Maximo018

Glad it passed. That sucks about your Cal similar smog test.

Lettut

Thank you Maximo. Yes, I really envy those of you living in States/Countries where they donīt have such strict rules.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

wow, nice job. car is looking sharp and if it passed MOT then you should be good to go. Congrats that is always a huge step.

Lettut

Thanks Ali. Iīm really glad that she passed. Now Iīm going to enjoy the car as it is this summer.
I have a 1jz Mines ecu that Iīd like to try, but I guess that I need at least a decat as well to gain anything from it? I donīt know exactly how itīs tuned. Iīve tried to contact Mines to get info via the serial number on the ECU, but they havenīt answered

atoledo

Very, very impressive and inspiring! Enjoy all your hard work this summer!

Lettut

Thank you atoledo! Iīll make sure that those stock twins will work this summer


Ali and Shaky:

You where indeed right about the auto tt diff gearing. It is short on the gears. A bit more power, and I could use the V161 as 5-speed, and skip 1st gear and start on 2nd . Itīs still fun to drive though, so I will wait until winter with changing to the usdm B07D-diff.



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alanflies

Wow... Very impressed. I think you may be my Swedish doppelganger...

Check out my thread on Supraforums, It's inversely proportional to yours.
There's even some info on page three about the central locking system.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...n-2jz-gte-swap...

Lettut

Thank you !
Still trying to get access to your build thread on supraforums, but no success so far. Iīll contact the moderators.
Iīm curious to see how you solved the wiring in the doors .

By coincidence I found a youtube clip of your car. Really cool !



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Lettut

The car has behaved well during the summer..

Now itīs back in the garage for the following mods:


1) Replacing the climate control display


2) Modifying drivers side door trim (speaker,power window,)


3)"fuel ecu relay mod"


4) AFR + boost gauge install


5) Changing to a B07D(USDM manual TT) differential


6) changing from twin plate to a single plate clutch


7) Mines 1jz-ecu


8) OBX 3īexhaust


9) FMIC


10) Hybrid Turbos







A new climate control display. The old display had the classic defect with the symbols dissapearing. I also pulled out the gauge cluster and removed the auto overdrive light that started to flash now and then.




This is how the supra door trim (not) fitted to the sc dash.



Modifying the the trim and installing the SC control buttons for the power window

Lettut

I havenīt yet figured out how to install the "mirror adjustment function". Thereīs no room for the control button. Iīll save that for later.




Same mod for the passanger side door trim




Thanks Ali for helping with the "Relay mod" for the fuel ecu!




The fuel ecu is easy to access behind the supra speaker cover

Lettut

AFR / Boost gauges



I donīt like to have gauges all over, so I wanted to place them in a discreet place. I went for the ashtray. Not optimal when it comes to visibility, but discreet and easy to hide. I used the wiring for the cigarette lighter to get the 12 volts for them.
















Differential



Changing from the auto tt (3,76)(left) to USDM manual tt diff (3,13)(right) . The left drive shaft and the prop shaft had to be changed as well.



The left drive shafts. A bit shorter for the big manual diff.

Lettut

The big usdm diff in place







Clutch

The os giken twin plate clutch has a very harsh on/off engagement and heavy pedal feel. As this car is for street use, it wasnīt quite what I wanted.

I found a used TRD single plate clutch instead. TRD pressure plate + Toyota oem flywheel + oem disc. Itīs supposed to be good for 450-500 whp with pedal feel/engagement similar to stock. Supposed to more silent as well.





Toyota OEM flywheel and disc


Mines ECU



I havenīt been able to get information about how itīs tuned. I guess that most of them are tuned for some kind of BUP (exhaust,fmic)? Maybe Iīll go for a stand alone + bigger injectors later on, but this will do for now.