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That MKIV is looking so good now Anders! Beautifully restored! Nice inclusion of the UK/Euro spec hood scoop also. Were you able to acquire the gasket(s) and ducting that goes on the underside of the hood as well? I'm not sure that most people realize about that factory scoop that it isn't there for the air intake system. It was designed to duct air directly onto the stock turbos themselves if I am not mistaken.
Also wish we SC and Soarer folks had a factory glass headlight option as MKIV owners do Well, we do have a glass high beam option.
That MKIV is looking so good now Anders! Beautifully restored! Nice inclusion of the UK/Euro spec hood scoop also. Were you able to acquire the gasket(s) and ducting that goes on the underside of the hood as well? I'm not sure that most people realize about that factory scoop that it isn't there for the air intake system. It was designed to duct air directly onto the stock turbos themselves if I am not mistaken.=left
=left Also wish we SC and Soarer folks had a factory glass headlight option as MKIV owners do Well, we do have a glass high beam option.=left
=left Great work!!
Thanks Craig! The paint shop did a good job.
No no ducts on this scoop .
I don´t think the scoop was to cool the turbos, but to cool parts of the block. I´ve read somewhere that Toyota had problems with overheating of one of the cylinders (no 5 or 6 ?) when on high rpm for a longer time ( German Autobahn with free speed). Another adaption for Autobahn on the euro-spec supra was an oil cooler for the Differential
Yes I agree. OEM glass headlights for our SC´s would have been great
Anders - looking through the pages of this thread , I see how you did cut the coolant reservoir and made it smaller ...that was creative . What did you use to glue the pieces back together without any leaks. I need one to be cut because of the huge inter-cooler . thanks
Anders - looking through the pages of this thread , I see how you did cut the coolant reservoir and made it smaller ...that was creative . What did you use to glue the pieces back together without any leaks. I need one to be cut because of the huge inter-cooler . thanks
Hi Gerry, I used an ordinary two component epoxy glue. Seems to work. No leaks so far.
Have decided to upgrade from 1jz to 2jz on this lady .
The Aristo 2jz that I´ve just started to work on.
Many broken connectors on the harness
Cleaned up with new connectors on several places. Next step will be to extend and repin. We´ll see if gerrbs superb harness thread can teach a stupid Swede to do this
That new paintjob really makes that car pop! Regarding the engine harness, if you ever need to look up part numbers on connectors to buy new ones i have Toyota EWD book with all partnumbers on connectors up to 2007 I believe it was
Awesome, Anders!! Are you going to keep the sequential CT20B's from that Aristo engine? I think you have to in Sweden? You may have a somewhat affordable (in comparison to the USDM CT12B twins) GT28 wheel upgrade with those.
Also, will the inspectors ding you for having a front mount intercooler versus an OEM Toyota side mount IC? If so, I have found a very good solution that you may be interested in by taking an early JZZ30 Soarer SMIC (which has metal end tanks), sending it in to Bell Intercoolers of Texas and having them rework it on a jig they built for the one I sent them to raise the flow from 214 CFM with old tired (and sometimes crumbling) fins to a brand new and better near 400 CFM core with the same end tanks and dimensions. It will bolt right in and use the stock Toyota SMIC piping. For reference the MKIV TT SMICs with plastic end tanks flow only 305 CFM. Just want to mention since you have strict rules there and you'll want good flow to take advantage of the upgrade to 3.0L sequential If you want details and contact info for Bell Intercooler just let me know.
You can definitely do the harness work! Just take your time, study Gerry's thread carefully and make your notes, a chart or cross-reference if you need to. When I did mine and later diagnosed through some initial problems I still had after firing up I learned three very important lessons from Gerry:
1) The best way is to use your SC/Soarer harness as a base and basically then figure out each circuit that needs to be taken from the Aristo and put onto that. It felt very weird to me to think of it that way and I actually did it the other way around at first but the more I had to work through my initial wiring issues the more his lesson made sense. Which leads to...
2) There isn't always a direct 1-to-1 relationship for each wire. Some wiring schemes from the SC, Soarer, Supra and Aristo respectively don't have a direct match. Many wires do but several do not. Just enough to drive you crazy... but Gerry's thread explains all
3) Unwrap your entire Aristo harness. Use zip ties every so often to retain the general shape. You can't assume that just because an area of the harness looks okay and untouched that it hasn't been. Some sections will be genuinely virgin and untouched since first manufacture but other sections may have been messed with. It is best to go through all of it to be sure. Especially look for shoddy soldering repairs that you'll need to correct. In mine I found some poor wiring repairs that I hadn't anticipated in the injector connector and coil pack connector sections. I should have unwrapped the entire harness when I had it on a bench, not just 80% of it. Now I know better
That said, you'll do a great job with it! Just take your time and be thorough
That new paintjob really makes that car pop! Regarding the engine harness, if you ever need to look up part numbers on connectors to buy new ones i have Toyota EWD book with all partnumbers on connectors up to 2007 I believe it was
Thanks Benny!
As I told you earlier, the disadvantage with a fresh paint job is that you worry about scratching it or denting it all the time.
I´ll send you a PM if I need help with a part number. Thanks! I have some extra 1jz- and 1uz harnesses in good condition that I borrowed from for this 2jz harness.
These toys are bottomless money pit . I admire people like Anders who always want to improve and make something better .
Goodluck my friend ! More displacement , more power !
Thank you Gerry!
I agree. It never stops . I´m not planning for a high horse power build, but it gets quite expensive anyway. I try to comfort myself with the fact that the MkIVs are increasing in value, Hopefully I´ll get some money back the day it´s time to sell. (new MKIV record: 173 600USD, remember )
I do this firstly for the fun of it , but I also think that a 2jz is a good investment for a supra
I´ve met Supra owners here in Sweden who have never heard of a 1jz (seriously), The day it´s time to sell, I´m sure it´ll sell easier with a stock 2jzgte. I love the 1jz and it´s a great engine but the 2jz is better. and better known.. The 1jz sounds better though
Awesome, Anders!! Are you going to keep the sequential CT20B's from that Aristo engine? I think you have to in Sweden? You may have a somewhat affordable (in comparison to the USDM CT12B twins) GT28 wheel upgrade with those.
Hi Craig, Thanks!
I have a pair of euro-spec/CT12B turbos (pictured above) that I´ll swap to.I´m not going for high horse power, but it feels like a more reliable alternative than the used jdm turbos.
Also, will the inspectors ding you for having a front mount intercooler versus an OEM Toyota side mount IC? If so, I have found a very good solution that you may be interested in by taking an early JZZ30 Soarer SMIC (which has metal end tanks), sending it in to Bell Intercoolers of Texas and having them rework it on a jig they built for the one I sent them to raise the flow from 214 CFM with old tired (and sometimes crumbling) fins to a brand new and better near 400 CFM core with the same end tanks and dimensions. It will bolt right in and use the stock Toyota SMIC piping. For reference the MKIV TT SMICs with plastic end tanks flow only 305 CFM. Just want to mention since you have strict rules there and you'll want good flow to take advantage of the upgrade to 3.0L sequential If you want details and contact info for Bell Intercooler just let me know.
No I think a fmic is low risk/ok. It´s the single turbo set ups that has a high risk of getting stopped in the MOT-inspection. I painted the fmic matt black to make it discrete anyways. Better to be safe than sorry..
Thanks for the info about Bell intercoolers! How much did it cost to get their help? I found a similar SMIC alternative sold in the UK : (: http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/gara...bitz-1637.html ) It doesn't say exactly how much it flows, but it could be an alternative. I´ll keep the fmic on the red supra, but I´m looking for alternatives for my white SC. It has a stock soarer intercooler that has seen better days.
(edit: Boergy found it before me )
You can definitely do the harness work! Just take your time, study Gerry's thread carefully and make your notes, a chart or cross-reference if you need to. When I did mine and later diagnosed through some initial problems I still had after firing up I learned three very important lessons from Gerry:
Thanks for the info and thank you for believing in my wiring skills ! . I´ve done quite a lot of electrical work on my Supras,so I hope it´ll work if I take it easy., check and double check. On my black supra, I had to convert the RHD body harness to LHD, when I did the LHD-conversion. It took me like 4 months or something, but it worked
10-27-18, 01:44 PM
Well, we do have a glass high beam option.
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. What did you use to glue the pieces back together without any leaks. I need one to be cut because of the huge inter-cooler . thanks
!