When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Whow, that's a lot of work to make it LHD. I have done a few N/A to turbo swaps, all LHD and overall I do enjoy doing the work. Even with these swaps its a ton of stuff to change. Really nice N/A bodies I feel its worth the time and effort to make them turbo.
I noticed you said you have a tt LSD for 6-speed on the shelf. For U.S. cars the LSD will only fit in the 6-speed case. With the auto tt diff your gearing is going to be way off with the v160. You can pick up a sc430 rear diff and use the tt auto LSD you have. Gearing will then be close to stock tt 6-speed.
After this extensive research and effort I have no doubt it should start. If not I'm interested to see what you skipped/missed.
Thank you maximo018! I hope you´re right.
I have a slight OCD, so I have checked and double checked all the wiring I´ve done, but you never know if it works until you´ve tried it.
Whow, that's a lot of work to make it LHD. I have done a few N/A to turbo swaps, all LHD and overall I do enjoy doing the work. Even with these swaps its a ton of stuff to change. Really nice N/A bodies I feel its worth the time and effort to make them turbo.
I noticed you said you have a tt LSD for 6-speed on the shelf. For U.S. cars the LSD will only fit in the 6-speed case. With the auto tt diff your gearing is going to be way off with the v160. You can pick up a sc430 rear diff and use the tt auto LSD you have. Gearing will then be close to stock tt 6-speed.
Thank you for the input shaky! I´m a total noob when it comes to things like differentials, boosting and other power upgrades. My projects are a way to improve my skills step my step I try to remain humble and gather as much info as possible here on clublexus.
I´m aware of the different gearings on the different diffs, but I have no experience from real life on how different gearing affect the driveability. How do you think a stock 1jz+v160/161 + 3,769 diff will behave?
Dang ... this project is not for the faint of heart.
I commend you for that RHD to LHD conversion !
Hope to see this MKIV get the power plant it truly deserves in the future especially with that 6speed ...
Thank you gerrb!
You´re absolutely right about the choice of engine. Some day I hope to be able to replace the 1jz with a 2jzgte. An Aristo vvti swap with the help of your superb wiring write up is tempting.
I´d like to thank you for your willingness to share your knowledge with other members here on the forum!
awesome swap, great work and I like how whenever you hit a problem you just keep on going, thats the way to get er done. Yeah they are right on the diff with 3.79 and a v160/161 the gears are going to feel very short. might work ok with the 1JZ but the 3.2 diff off the v8 is what you want to make it like the stock TT diff and trans ratio.
Ali SC3 awesome swap, great work and I like how whenever you hit a problem you just keep on going, thats the way to get er done. Yeah they are right on the diff with 3.79 and a v160/161 the gears are going to feel very short. might work ok with the 1JZ but the 3.2 diff off the v8 is what you want to make it like the stock TT diff and trans ratio.
bzebern good job man!!!
went that route but my car is a little bit worst than that supra
Thank you guys! I really appreciate your positive feedback!
Ali, Thanks for your advice. I´ll change to the correct diff gearing when I get the chance. First I´ll try this set up and see how it behaves. I´m not planning to stay stock on the engine, so I guess it´ll be even more crucial to have the correct gearing with increased power.
Bzebern. Impressive work on your Rx7! Revived from the dead so to speak.
Do you have a build thread anywhere? I´d love to see more of that project!
Last week I got the last ac hose back from my mate who welds in aluminum. It´s a modified sc300 hose with the connectors changed to R12. To make it fit to the long sc400 line, we had to a add a bend.
Drivers seat
Different connectors on the supra seat and the sc300 harness meant more soldering and heat shrinking. I Used connectors from an old LS400 harness I had laying around.
I connected the battery yesterday. No garage fire . No blown fuses
Things that work:
*lights front and rear
*turn signal
*radio/ speakers (haven´t tried the cd yet)
*ac/heater control / blower
*steering wheel tilt /telescope (didn´t work at first, I had forgotten to connect *the plugs to the tilt/telescope motors)
*wiper
*washer fluid pump
*starter (the 1jz cranks fine. haven´t connected the igniter yet)
Downside
No sound from the fuel pump
No gauge cluster light (hopefully just the bulb)
The ac/heater control works fine, but the screen is all blurred up
Here´s a video of one of the first start ups. It runs for 14 seconds and then dies. Did this a couple of times, but then I stopped for tonight because of water leaking from one of the hoses that runs to the heater/firewall.
Noob questions of today: Do you think that this stop is caused by the combination of the sc300 fuel pump ecu and the supra tt fuel pump? if yes, do I have to do the 12v mod to solve this? I´ve searched on this and end up with different answers. Some say that you have to do the mod when using the tt pump on a sc.
Another thing that happend was that the new serpentine belt bought from driftmotion was slipping (a bit too long)(contitech 6pk 1980). Changed to the old one that came with the 1jz, and that worked fine. Has anyone else been experiencing this?
it could need the 12V mod, or what I would do to retain stock like operation is to do the 12V mod with a relay.
some people have needed it and others haven't with the tt pump, it is kind of random.
normally with a walboro you do not need it.
I would reccomend installing a relay that provides battery power to pump and relay is triggered off the SC fuel pump ecu. that way you retain stock safety features and pump wont run with the motor off, and pump gets full time 12V.
the basic 12v mod with just cutting the wires and bypassing the ecu without the relay will make the pump run at key on (motor off) and in an accident you will have to pull the key out to stop the pump and even if you do it will run for like another 6 seconds. I never do the basic 12v mod I always say go with a relay.
not sure about the belt but I am sure some of the 1J guys know the answer.
it could need the 12V mod, or what I would do to retain stock like operation is to do the 12V mod with a relay.
some people have needed it and others haven't with the tt pump, it is kind of random.
normally with a walboro you do not need it.
I would reccomend installing a relay that provides battery power to pump and relay is triggered off the SC fuel pump ecu. that way you retain stock safety features and pump wont run with the motor off, and pump gets full time 12V.
the basic 12v mod with just cutting the wires and bypassing the ecu without the relay will make the pump run at key on (motor off) and in an accident you will have to pull the key out to stop the pump and even if you do it will run for like another 6 seconds. I never do the basic 12v mod I always say go with a relay.
not sure about the belt but I am sure some of the 1J guys know the answer.
Thanks Ali !
The 12v mod solved the problem. Now it runs fine.
Your suggestion on a relay sounds good. I´d also like to keep it as safe as possible.
Is there a write up here on clublexus on that mod? which one of the other wires that runs to the fuel pump ecu is supposed to control the relay?
looks like this. the 12V coming into the relay, you can run a new wire from battery or just splice the 12v wire thats already there going into the fuel ecu like in the picture.
04-10-16, 10:42 AM
r27 by nakahachi, on Flickr
r3 by nakahachi, on Flickr
broken rear1 by nakahachi, on Flickr
r1 by nakahachi, on Flickr
IMG_2733 by nakahachi, on Flickr
IMG_2734 by nakahachi, on Flickr
IMG_2736 by nakahachi, on Flickr
IMG_2745 by nakahachi, on Flickr
IMG_2742 by nakahachi, on Flickr
IMG_2738 by nakahachi, on Flickr
. No blown fuses 
